Half-day make over. Budget Buffing a 50 Year old boat.

[@brianhotte3882]

Thank you for your work and effort to this video

[@JoshyHendoMan]

Glad to see this video. I have an old boat given to me with oxidation and I'm not picky enough to go through three different steps just to make it shine for the water. Thanks for the post!

[@Theweldingmillennial]

If its old and oxidized you would be better off doing the full process. Heavy oxidation will look ok if you one step, it like I do in this video but it will come back every season. If you have the money you should buy separate cutting/ polishing/ waxing products. I really need to do a follow up on this video.

[@JoshyHendoMan]

@@Theweldingmillennial yeah I’m just looking for something this season. I plan to repaint it at the end of the season.

[@downshifthard]

Glad I'm not the only one crazy enough to take something like this on. Just bought a 1981 19ft Manatee v hull with a 1978 Merc 115 "tower of power" for $800. Needs pretty much everything except sub flooring and transom. I'm glad to see you can actually buff it out, I thought I would have to re gel coat the whole thing. Good video, I will be watching your project progress.

[@Theweldingmillennial]

Get it running decent and getout on the water. The first 2-3 season will be a bit hit or miss until you work out all the details. Definitely keep an eye on the transom. This boat is a 73 and i did a full transom, stringers, and the floor. Good luck.

[@downshifthard]

@@Theweldingmillennial so I shook the motor up and down pretty hard and there was no give, how else would I know if the transom was suspect?

[@Theweldingmillennial]

You do a tap test to see if the fiberglass has separated(delaminated)from the wood. Or you can drill small exploratory holes to see if the wood is rotten just make sure you do it from inside the boat and seal them up when your done.

[@mark98070]

She looks much better! Step 2 would be to wax or ceramic coat it. You mentioned at the start of the video you used an automotive type of polish prior to the marine & RV polish. Was there really a difference in the results? I would have thought it was the same product in a different container....Marketing prowess. Thanks for your videos

[@Theweldingmillennial]

The type of wax is more dependent on the finish. Marine/ RV is for use on gel gelcoat automotive isn't. Gelcoat it a much thicker finnish and needs to be kept hydrated or it becomes oxidized and chalked. The stuff I used in the video is designed to remove light oxidation and sratching. It did on ok job but I really needed a heavy oxide remover. The auto polish looked good for a few days. The gel coat oxidation came back and it looked similar to before I waxed it. The gel coat stuff does much better and last longer.

[@joaquinmireles3912]

If you put turtle cermca wax in it will last a lot longer

[@Theweldingmillennial]

Maybe in the future.

[@Theplanedetailer]

Sand it you will save yourself so much more time than the time you just spent compounding.

[@connordonaldson1028]

did this leave any holograms?

[@Theweldingmillennial]

Not that I can notice. But this is a very dry 50 year old gel coat. On newer or better condition gel coat, it may have different results.

[@starviolet6402]

👏 😀😀

[@gwesman]

If you don’t wax the boat after doing this your kinda wasting your time. I use NU finish better than wax ceramic coating. It’s a lot easier to use and simple spray then wipe.

[@Theweldingmillennial]

Yes, one step is concerned a buffing/polishing compound. A full job would also include a final wax.

[@gwesman]

@@Theweldingmillennial this is just a cheap east wax to protect the work you did so it won’t oxidize again by locking out the air from the fiberglass paint. Then just wash it off when you go to do a real wax job with a buffer.