HARDENED STEEL Nozzle with COPPER INSERT (IMPORTANT UPDATE in VIDEO DESCRIPTION)

[@PrintingPerspective]

*IMPORTANT TESTING VIDEO UPDATE ABOUT THIS NOZZLE:* - kzbin.info/www/bejne/hoHcmnR5r9h_ja8

[@hughessay1372]

It makes sense. The velocity of the abrasive material doesn't increase significantly until the filament necks down through the nozzle opening so the worst wear occurs at the smallest orifice.

[@PrintingPerspective]

Yeah and you also squishing down the filament at high speeds.

[@Avets610]

Maybe the filament used for testing with wood fibers is not as abrasive as carbon fiber or stone so you would have seen likely more wear with the other two. Anyway, it seems to me a very good idea. Even if the copper insert wears out, you can always replace it and they could just include a spear one. Also i think the abraded copper should be smaller than the fibers of the filament so it shouldnt cause any problem.

[@PrintingPerspective]

Yeah, the wood filament is definitely less abrasive than the carbon fiber-filled one. But I mean if these nozzles become popular they will come down in price as more sellers start to compete with lower prices. Plus it is good to know that the copper insert won't wear out instantly. I hope we also will see regular V6 nozzles like these. Having a high flow and not having to worry when I need to print some abrasive filament is so nice.

[@NDWDesign]

@cnckittchen mentioned that glow-in-the-dark filament is quite abrasive. Maybe give it a try

[@nirajahmed7398]

@@PrintingPerspective I can currently see hardened v6 cht nozzles being available on Ali.

[@jaysoncummins8197]

i got these over a month ago. They are great, no clogs, and handle multiple filament types without wear and tear

[@GreySectoid]

The copper insert will still wear out if you print abrasives, I think.

[@guesswork]

Honestly, i would be curious to see just how abrasive wood filament actually is. I was using it through cheap brass for a long time and didn't even know I wasn't supposed to. I have just never been convinced that a little dust of some cheap wood and cork is somehow worse than the PLA anyways. I'm sure they're not using Ash or African Blackwood in filament. Unfortunately I don't know that there's really a reference for something like that. Even the hardness scales are not exactly comparable between wood and metal or plastic. I mean what even is extra wear? Are we talking about changing a nozzle a roll early? A week? From my perspective it just kind of came out of nowhere and the community started telling everyone that wood will kill your nozzles.

[@airheadbit1984]

How do you tell when the extruder starts skipping? What does 3~5% under extrusion mean, how is it measured?

[@EmmeryCheung]

Nice video. I actually bought one of these and questioned myself if it would work after I received it. Would be nice to see a re-visit after a few months usage in the future.

[@kubamiszczz]

is it still necessary to preheat throat to tighten the nozzle? or tight it in cold throat is enough? and is any specific torque value or just tight with 6th sense;]

[@SpankMyFace]

I just did the volumetric flow test on my stock P1P with PETG, and it somehow managed 25mm3 at 255c. From what I understand, PLA is supposed to be the highest-flow filament, which makes other results puzzling. I did just order the 2.0 hotend from Taobao ($6.50 each, nice), can't wait to see how it performs. One question, have you ever tested adding thermal paste to the threads on the nozzle? I might test that when the new hotend eventually arrives.

[@arimamiyasawa4200]

best conductive material its Beryllium copper HASCO injector (hot runners) and DME (hot runners) injector

[@danielhertz7266]

Dynzne carbide nozzle. Higher conducting heat, superior heat retention, extreme wear resistantance.

[@rockels_journals]

Those nozzles with copper inserts wearing out a bit faster is actually not a verry big deal since they're exchanged fast and easily at a cost of just €1,50. Compared to a naked Bambu Lab hotend of around €18, on which you need some time to disassemble and exchange everything, or a fully assembled hotend which comes at €37

[@woutervossebeld4664]

Amazing video, you have really found your niche in the world of 3d printing! Can you do strength testing with this as well? From what I have read high speed printing is bad for strength since the filament does not get a chance to really heat up, with a cht nozzle it should be better. I am interested in the difference between slow printing with a regular nozzle and fast printing with parts that are designed for high speed printing.

[@PrintingPerspective]

Well, I thought multiple times about doing a video like this, but proper layer adhesion testing would require making a custom testing machine. And that takes a LOT of time. At some point, I will do it just because I love testing stuff. For now, I personally just use half of the hotend's max flow rate when I need good layer adhesion.

[@deadlyassassin240]

I always love to see similar testing done to confirm test results, but CNC Kitchen did a video on speed vs strength testing on his x1 and using the Cht nozzle almost increased layer strength proportional to the flow increase! Which makes sense, so these new nozzles let you print faster and maintain the strength. Printing slow is only stronger if you are running out of flow at higher speeds based on his data. Would love to see it confirmed!

[@jordangarside]

How does retraction work with these? Does it need to be disabled? Do you end up with more stringing?

[@zgrywusbat471]

Why would you not tune PA? Drop in doesnt mean no tuning. You have to tune it between different filaments let alone nozzle consteuctions... Otherwise good content:)

[@AlbaderBohamad]

How do you tune?

[@102diy]

Heat block construction is more important to increase extrusion performance!

[@itsazuur_]

Hey, I love your videos, thanks for your awesome content :). Could you please test the fake Ali Volcano CHT nozzles to see if they can compare to official Volcano CHT nozzles ? I didn't see any comparison on these types of nozzles on the internet or KZbin.

[@PrintingPerspective]

Thanks, I think they will be very similar. You probably just need a stronger extruder with clones as the insert slightly restricts the flow.

[@twanheijkoop6753]

​@@PrintingPerspectivethe copper splitter on the Vulcano cht clones is just as long as on the regular clones. I personally don't measure difference between a mellow Vulcano adapter + clone cht Vs a Vulcano clone cht. Both give me around 30mm³ on a CHC pro with esun pla+ at 220°C

[@BuzzingGoober]

What's the best way to mount this in a non bambu lab printer? Do you think using your v6 adapter from the other vid + mounting in 3d printed v6 adapter mount (my printer doest use v6 style hot end)? Also, what klipper settings shoukd i use for this therimstor/heater as im not dropping into a bambu lab?

[@damzelfly]

Do you need to increase the nozzle temperature to allow better flowrate?

[@freedomofmotion]

No, at the same temperature it's heated the material more effectively so if anything you can run with slightly lower temperatures for the same performance if you want to save electrical costs or something 😂 Where these really shine though is high temperature and high speed. I was printing at 300mms with 0.8mm line width out of 0.4mm nozzle without under extruding @ 238c with geetech pla that's about 48 (mm)3/s which is insane. If anything I could of reduced temperature a little more as did have some cooling issues and had immovable supports and some drooping on non supported over hangs 45-50 degrees) My nozzles were volcano style fitted to Kobra 2 max hotend.

[@qwewer6]

@DIYPERSPECTIVE How is the situation with the nozzle after two weeks? Did you give it your all, and printed the hell out of it?

[@PrintingPerspective]

I had very little printing after I made the video as I swapped to a different hotend and extruder for a future video. I printed more for the video with that hotend/nozzle than others print when doing a 3D printer review lol. If you only on occasion print abrasives you will be fine. Most wear happens at the tip of the nozzle not inside.

[@olafmarzocchi6194]

Then we would need a nozzle which is copper with nickel plating and CHT insert, and hardened steel tip.

[@Rejzaaa]

3:00 in which program was the graph made?

[@3DThird]

I'm going to test this nozzle on my x1c for one main reason, parts don't seem to crystallise enough when printing fast and that makes them weaker.

[@EnchiladaBro]

howd it turn out? looking at getting one for my p1s

[@3DThird]

@EnchiladaBro it does help when printing fast, but it seems there is a limit, possibly due to the hot zone length or heater capacity. Do I recommend it? Yes.

[@Victor-ze3sd]

Hi, I was wondering, does the Qidi x plus 3 have automatic flow rate ajust? (same as the Bamboo), also, would it be possible to apply this hotend to the Qidi printer?

[@PrintingPerspective]

Hey. It doesn't. They're cht nozzles that fit QIDI hotend on AliExpress. You could also apply only the tz nozzle. It would need additionally the Volcano to V6 adapter though. QIDI nozzles are 19mm length. Volcano adapter + TZ cht nozzle is 8.5+10.6=19.1mm.

[@gonzalovaldez8204]

hello I like your videos, I see that you deleted several of them, it's a shame I had the real intention of doing the bench drill, regards

[@PrintingPerspective]

Hey, you can still build my old projects by the written instructions - www.instructables.com/member/diyperspective/instructables/

[@carlosrivas3440]

Cuál ese filamento de madera?? Se ve muy bien

[@Baldavier]

wait, how this works? You need 3 filament go in to the top? or does it slice it into 3 as it's gong in?

[@PrintingPerspective]

Plastics have very low thermal conductivity. So this nozle basically acts as a mixer to split the flowing plastic into 3 parts to better and more equally heat it.

[@MyLonewolf25]

This upgrade uses standard v6 nozzles correct? My only gripe is I wish it used a ring heater. But I’m definitely looking at this for a p1p

[@PrintingPerspective]

No, these are custom nozzles and not V6 for the TZ 2.0 hotend. But you can find V6 nozzles like these for other hotends.

[@vbence12]

What are the advantages of the ring heater over the flat ones? I was searching online looking for an answer but couldn't find anything

[@jcenergy2493]

There's a new version intended to be an ender style 1to1 replacement. Same hotend different cooling. It works awesome and it's easier to install!

[@themightyowl]

Have you had any issues with nozzle height?

[@beauregardslim1914]

So is it the copper or is it the CHT-style that is making the difference? I'm all about copper nozzles and blocks, but I wonder how much difference that small amount of copper for the insert makes.

[@PrintingPerspective]

Mainly CHT type as you split and heat the filament more equally and faster. But copper definitely helps also due to its high thermal conductivity.

[@stanpittner313]

Great video!

[@ivyr336]

But... Bondtech also has their bimetal CHT. Which *is* a hardened steel nozzle with CHT.

[@lucerocj]

Which is steel... did you not watch the video? It's saying steel, which bond tech has, has a lower melting point. So, adding a copper insert that hast the CHT clone AND the steel nozzle wear resistance, you 'could' get the best of both materials.

[@nunovicente34]

Bondtech is the other way round, copper shell and hardned insert

[@burzumite]

@@Tedlasman I work at a shop that produces tungsten carbide. I can imagine the high price is justified as something with this geometry would require extensive milling.

[@PrintingPerspective]

@ivyr336 I know but it has a CHT-hardened steel nozzle with a surrounded copper shell that costs ~$50. It is more for people who ONLY print carbon fiber-filled filaments or any other high-wear abrasives.

[@nunovicente34]

@@Tedlasman why?

[@notarandomthing]

I have a quick question about the normal bambu lab hotend. On one aliexpress listing they said it was made of brass can you confirm this?

[@PrintingPerspective]

I can confirm that only by Bambu Wiki, they say it is Nickel-plated brass - wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/maintenance/replace-hotend

[@sabotage3d]

I noticed there is a cheaper version from JUUPINE 3D Lab Store is it worth the risk? It is at least half the price and there are more nozzles options. I wonder if they are all the same manufacturer.

[@PrintingPerspective]

From my understanding Haldis 3D designs and manufactures the hotend. They reached out and asked if I was interested way before I saw those hotends from other sellers. Most likely they are mainly selling them in bulk to the resellers. So they should be the same, but I can't really know that for sure.

[@sabotage3d]

@@PrintingPerspective Thanks for the info. I am looking for a whole kit for P1S with the thermistor included as I want to keep my original intact.

[@MrBaskins2010]

really incredible content

[@cigp]

bought two of them and tested them into two different hot ends . In both scenarios i suffered from extruder motor overheat and stringing. Switched back to regular no issues at all. idk but it didnt worked for me

[@PrintingPerspective]

Well slightly more stringing is unavoidable because the insert is at the end of the hotend and it very well heats up the filament. So it can ooze more. I personally didn't saw that much more stringing. Also what a weak ass extruder you are using, haha? Even BMG type worked well in my case with 22mm stepper motor.

[@cigp]

@@PrintingPerspective titan clone with medium size (32 mm depth) nema running at 0.8 amps

[@PrintingPerspective]

You should check out my video about original Bambu hotend where I showed how horrible Titan extruder is as it had insane under extrusion compared to even BMG. With these high flow hotends you need a powerful extruder, I even said that in this video. BMG is bare minimum and you are using Titan who works fine only with very low flow rates. You should be using something like Orbiter V2 with such hotends.

[@FantaSaus]

CNCKitchen V2.0 ?! Nice work. Thx

[@PrintingPerspective]

Not sure what you mean by that but thanks, haha

[@Schuessel]

(IMPORTANT UPDATE in VIDEO DESCRIPTION)? No, there is no Update in the description... LmAA

[@nirajahmed7398]

Thanks for the video. Tried to purchase through paypal. There seems to be some error during checkout. Is this upgraded version available elsewhere?

[@PrintingPerspective]

I will tell the company, I don't think you can buy it anywhere else at this moment, I haven't seen it on Aliexpress yet.

[@ZenExMachina-dl2zt]

@@PrintingPerspective Getting this same error with attempting to use paypal

[@nirajahmed7398]

@@PrintingPerspective Thanks i was finally able to buy the hotend using paypal and recieved the item quickly. Unfortunately, the package doesn't even include the hardened cht nozzle for which i made this purchase. I am still awaiting a response from customer service on why they didn't send the cht nozzle. Very disappointed. I was looking forward to using this hardened cht nozzle.

[@PrintingPerspective]

​@@nirajahmed7398 Hmm, the CHT comes as a gift. So they should send it. I will say to get their shit together, haha.

[@PrintingPerspective]

@nirajahmed7398 This is what they said after I forwarded your message: This problem is our fault. The warehouse shipped it and forgot to put it in the package. We are communicating with customers who have purchased it and will reissue it again, hoping to make up for their losses! This problem will not occur in the future, thank you for your timely feedback to us, thank you very much! Please rest assured that our follow-up shipments will strengthen inspections. In addition, you can help us reply, please contact customer service for missing accessories, and we will reissue them!

[@stefanguiton]

Great video!

[@PrintingPerspective]

As always thanks! :)

[@Mr_XXX513]

is the nozzle e3d or mk 8 style?

[@pretentiousmess2702]

Neither, its Bambu labs.

[@olafschermann1592]

Ingenious,