Hardening tool steel.

Hardening tool steel in the home workshop

[@DogsaladSalad]

You may want to look into case hardening. It's also a very simple process and it might resolve your softness issue

[@andrewdolinskiatcarpathian]

Thank you for a very informative and educational video. Your findings are very interesting. I will continue using my small hand held torch in the knowledge that it is still a good way to harden and temper tool steel. Thank you 👏👏👍😀 Can I ask, do you have a reason for quenching in water in preference to oil? Very happy to subscribe for more such content.

[@simonbirt6121]

Hello Andrew, Silver steel is quenched in water traditionally, all down to the composition of the material. Gauge plate is quenched in oil. Quenching in water gives a harder result in theory. There are whole books on the subject and many opinions, I just follow the advice on the material data sheet.

[@andrewdolinskiatcarpathian]

@@simonbirt6121 Thankyou for your reply. I will try to remember your advice regarding silver steel and gauge plate. Many thanks 👍😀

[@Galleitch]

On decarbonisation, an old-timer trick I have heard about (but not tried!) is to wrap the part in tin foil, get it airtight, and include a piece of paper inside the package; this burns and consumes the oxygen and thus the surface carbon cannot burn off.

[@DogsaladSalad]

This works but the foil needs to be stainless foil, aluminium foil or "tin foil" will burn off very quickly as it's melting point is low

[@lindboknifeandtool]

Gotta be stainless “tool wrap” I think it’s 4 thousandths of an inch. 309 stainless for high temperature applications. Can be re used with care, with diminishing results of preventing oxidization. This goes for air hardening steels usually. Carbon steels require much less temperature so they aren’t effected by this as much. I heat treated AEBL without tool wrap and I had to grind a considerable amount to get tk hard steel. Same goes for m2… heh. I got the wrap now. Oh yeah and there’s anti scale you can paint on.

[@badjaeaux]

Thank you Simon, have you ever considered building a simple gun for home defense, or a Samurai sword whichever is legal in your country? I am prepping bcoz i lost my bicycle to a hardened criminal when i was little

[@tomsuica8731]

Nice Tag H. bro! What is it!!?

[@michaelbetsch9700]

Or in my case I just love doing it

[@agaralpha1842]

whats the sharpening media you use

[@jerzyszczepanski9792]

Hi. I'e read that O1 tool steel should be quenched in Oil and W1 tool steel in Water, O1 - Oil / W1 - Water. Is there a reason why you quench O1 in Water? Thank you.

[@lindboknifeandtool]

If anything it’s overkill. Oil is required for steels that harden super fast, usually have a bit of chromium and alloy. 52100 is considered water or oil. Most steels can be oil quenched actually. Commonly down to 1000f then in air or water

[@TheOneAndOnlySame]

Tool steel on a lathe? For wood or plastics but for anything it's supposed to be HSS isn't it?

[@lindboknifeandtool]

For metalworking usually. Even still, if you have speeds and feeds correct I believe the heat is evacuated through the chips.

[@lindboknifeandtool]

I’d imagine wanting HSS for even wood though… idk 😂

[@Kane-ib5sn]

educational video. the first few minutes kinda went nowhere...probably should write it out, get the thinking clearer & edited. the discussion later on...perhaps the heat-treating by eye & oven needs calibration - via a thermal heat-detector-gun...just so you have better reference as to what temperature does what, when.

[@Nick-ye5kk]

4 minutes in and I've no idea what materials you are using or what you are trying to achieve.