Harder than you think: Intro to Ice Climbing

We have 4 glacier guides in Iceland introducing you to Ice Climbing. This was going to be 3 episodes of Gear, Anchors, and Technique but we were able to smash it all cohesively into the one video you see above. Naturally, as this was filmed in Iceland by Iceland guides, this is taught on glacial ice. Waterfall ice climbing is a bit different but many of the things shared here cross over super good enough at the beginning level.
This is intended to read and watch before you go ice climbing with someone who knows what they are doing, so you can absorb things a lot faster. It would have been super helpful to have seen this before going ourselves instead of showing up "cold turkey". Please don't watch an hour-long video on youtube of people you don't know and then put knives on your feet and sharp axes in your hands and try this stuff on your own. There is no way all the nuances of your context can be covered and you don't know what you don't know and could get hurt as a result.
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Intro to Ice Climbing
00:04:05 GEAR: Your guides
00:05:28 GEAR: Harness
00:06:37 GEAR: Helmet
00:07:13 GEAR: Boots and Crampons
00:19:47 GEAR: Ice axes
00:29:10 ANCHORS: Ice Screws
00:36:02 ANCHORS: Anchor Theory
00:40:52 ANCHORS: Installing Edge Safety
00:43:21 ANCHORS: Over the edge top rope anchor
00:51:27 ANCHORS: Top rope set up
00:56:00 TECHNIQUE: The concepts
00:59:39 TECHNIQUE: 2-Hand Method
01:04:37 TECHNIQUE: A Frame Method
01:09:07 TECHNIQUE: How NOT to do it
01:13:43 ANCHORS: Top belaying anchor
01:15:25 TECHNIQUE: The Gnar

[@HowNOT2]

Find the textbook at www.hownot2.com/post/ice-climbing We sell ice gear now at hownot2.com/collections/mountaineering

[@jhaggerty3725]

38:30 38:30 38:30 38:30 38:30

[@harryk1266]

Finding ice and getting to it is the hard part...

[@wanderer2766]

Pay a visit to Tirol...😁

[@NPC-fl3gq]

Especially in Northern Australia in summer. My fridge is the only place I can climb :(

[@jayvanover4130]

Well I live in Alaska with a glacier 20 miles from my house and another one like 80 miles and those are just the easy ones to get to

[@dylanp3008]

Come to Alberta Canada. There's plentiful ice.

[@musaabhasan6450]

Winnipeg, Manitoba literally has this tower that they waterfall water down till it freezes into an ice wall.

[@JonathanCamp]

Looking forward to seeing this one. I had Mike as a guide a few weeks ago for a family trip to Iceland, and he was awesome.

[@HowNOT2]

Small world! He's a great guide.

[@stevengreco8003]

I have been watching this channel for a while and it amazes me how quality your information is. You can tell how much they love this sport and want to teach others!! Never stop exploring!

[@beauxgaloo9621]

Love the diversity of climbing sports found on this channel. Keep up the great work, Ryan!!

[@dylanp3008]

One of your best videos! Loved the long form. Love the teachings, great guests. Easier to watch then the divided up chapter style of the canyon course.

[@TheUncleRuckus]

If you're having issues with your glasses Fogging up, Clean the Lenses with either Shaving Cream/Foam or Liquid Dish Soap! I'd recommend the Shaving Cream as it's a little easier to get it streak free but, both will work and it will work on All Types of glasses & Lens materials. 1) Apply a small amount of Shaving Cream or Dish Soap to both sides of the lenses. 2) Using you fingers rub the Shaving Cream or Dish Soap all over the both sides of the lenses until they are completely covered. 3) Take a _DRY_ rag or cloth and wipe off all of the Shaving Cream or Dish Soap until the lenses are clear and streak free. Now your lenses will be fog proof, enjoy. * You will have to reapply every so often or if the glasses get wet. My grandfather showed me this trick 35+ years ago bc I refused to wear safety glasses as they constantly fogged up on me and I've been using it and passing it on ever since. This trick will also work on Bathroom Mirrors and the interior of car windows. So give it a try I guarantee you will not be disappointed! 👍👍

[@nettewilson5926]

Thank you

[@calebs4887]

Dish soap also makes great defogging stuff for scuba masks, pretty sure the defogging stuff dive shops sell is just soap, cause i accidentally got some in my mouth, and it tasted like soap.

[@MAV3NX]

Love having Andrea providing additional commentary and perspective on the channel🤩

[@nomiakasu5025]

Iceland is an amazing place with amazing people. Thanks for making such great content and to all those that donated their time to the community.

[@johnarinehart]

Thank you so much for giving us this kind of content, loved the energy of the guides. As always, top quality content and also entertaining.

[@Knot-orious]

Thank you for keeping your channel so eclectic, Ryan!

[@austris_]

Absolutely incredible content and tons of useful stuff before ice climbing season this year!

[@Sanderbreur]

Fantastic! Love it, thanks for putting so much effort in improving our knowledge and techniques!

[@benjaminfleming22]

Loved this one! Been wanting a crash course and this was it! Those guides were good to watch!

[@rikvdmark]

Once I started watching I couldn’t stop. Very inspiring 😁

[@joshua4625]

Lol I love Mike's energy. Keep it weird, having fun makes learning easy!

[@thatdude3943]

So great seeing so many guides helping out!

[@danylokozynets9364]

sweet! love that long videos, they kind of a full, not chopped, it's good to have topic being open and closed

[@gregwilson1613]

I did the ice cave tour with Stephan a few weeks ago. While I didn't climb because the other person I was with wasn't a climber, he was very friendly and extremely knowledgeable about the glacier and Iceland's geography. As someone that ice climbs already, I'd have no doubts going climbing with him.

[@lewisli9162]

Thanks for the great content and being the pioneer of such content. Please do testing on crampon stepping on rope, ice pick stabbing rope, ice falling on rope. I’m constantly thinking about these when climbing. They should be an interesting topic.

[@ushi120]

Great content, great fun. Mike is a original dude, I learn a lot watching his videos. Shang a lang, baby 👍

[@Peppymoke]

Loved to get a little insight into ice climbing 🙂

[@metacum]

Well made, informative, and goofy cool 😅 Cheers for the effort and sharing!

[@karynboatman994]

This makes me miss ice climbing already. It's so much fun!!

[@tobiasmcd5918]

I'm annoyed that this didn't get more views. Such a good video :)

[@Runkken91]

On the topic of the golden orange 32:02 (ice screw caps). The company BLUE ICE have a nice solution to that problem. Their caps have loops, which allows for one handed operation to rack them on a biner. Golden solution for plastic caps!

[@neil57able1]

Thanks guys. Excellent work

[@jhors7777]

Thank you for posting this detailed helpful video!!

[@thecma3]

Putting out my DIY crampon case: two 2L soda bottles, cut & duct taped to make them a bit narrower. Slide crampons into one bottle and slide the other bottle over the open end. Super protective and dirt cheap.

[@sablinger]

Woah, that Mike-guy in the red puffy jacket is hilarious!!! bring him on more often... maybe give him something like a climbing late-night show.

[@pumpgunranger2336]

This channel is freaking crushing it

[@Vicentecarmonagonza]

Great video!!! Congrats 👏👏👏👏👏

[@jefffoy530]

This is one if the coolest channels I watch. The vibe and aesthetic, super chill enough; and the variety of content is fantastic. The interviews, the lab tests, the real world testing and practical applications on location…. Your content is much appreciated 🫡🤙🙏

[@Jiewicz]

not to mention the things no one sees... the audio work is incredible, the montage dope, and i the image must have been reworked as well.

[@mariamueller1946]

Bless you for making this one video

[@theshotheard]

Hey it looks like no one pointed out how phenomenal of a double entendre “harder than you think” is pertaining to ice climbing. Well done. Or maybe this is a well known phrase in the ice climbing community.

[@gdubya03]

I love it. Keep em coming

[@thenerv37]

I have always wanted to try this!

[@danielcross1043]

Great footage..Thanks!

[@austinhildebrant9820]

Great video!

[@Grateful.For.Everything]

Who knew that ice climbing had such a sensual nature to it.

[@LadiFuchs]

Super nice people and video thanks guys 🤙🏼😊

[@rederu3788]

great content!

[@larryborshard7824]

Good, fun video! Very tough to make an intro video that covers a lot more than a first time out with a guide. It's not bad to have short segments, like Will Gadd's Tech Tips. This long video makes an excellent review after getting some ice climbing under your belt. PS- It looked like your tools were too high to allow you to move your hips out away from the ice and get a good, upward toe-pointing kick. The problem was not that you were stepping too high. If you step up too high, you'll know b/c when you stand up, your tools will be too low and you'll feel like you're going to fall backwards. Hope this helps!

[@oktawiangornik1284]

It was mentioned at some point that Grigri can be used on iceclimbing, as belay device. I have learned that icy-rope can stop Grigri from functionig as it should and therefore to be avoided during iceclimbing.

[@nettewilson5926]

Great intro!!! I liked how you described your experiences and impressions of your first time. Now I want to go ice climbing in Iceland. With a guide. And only after they’ve set up a bomb proof top rope for me.

[@coryupton669]

Now I gotta try it

[@miferna]

I do much more ice and mixed terrain climbing than I do rock... and I can tell you right now (13 minutes into the video), to stick to fully rigid automatic crampon compatible (notch at the front and back) for ice climbing. And 99% of the boots are going to be compatible with the usual toe bails from Petz., BD, Grivel, Camp, etc. Some extra wide boots at the toe box might need some tweaking or even changing the toe bail for a wider one, but 99% of the boots will fit no problem. Therefore, you can buy online no problem! Also, if you stick to Petzl (I owned those Lynx, then bought the new Darts, which are same concept but ligther), you can mix and match the toe and heel baskets and front bails and back levers as you please. So with those Lynx, for instance, you could use them for hardcore ice climbing with rigid boots and toe bail, and then for spring outings put the front basket and get by with a semi-rigid boot (ligther) for the ocassional snow. I really like how Petz allows you to mix also front and back pieces (all back pieces are the same). And no, I am not sponsored by Petzl by any means, I just like their products! Cool video as usual!!!

[@wosunsun1433]

谢谢！非常牛逼的教程，非常慷慨的分享！

[@Mindwave416]

nice! skiing is superior way down for sure. but crampys look useful to know how to use

[@badbunnyTUBE]

Can't wait until you end up break testing bouldering crash pads

[@VargVikernez]

ah yes thats something id love to see!

[@andreasweber7828]

I started ice climbing at the age of 12 all by myself near my home. Took old gear I found on the attic , had no clue what to do but managed to climb up about 30ft, totally proud of myself. The next day I noticed that the entire ice wall had collapsed and left a clear wall for me to look at. I never came back to the place and didn’t attempt to learn to ice climb the appropriate way for a long time.

[@andrewbarabas4900]

I didn't realize how much I wanted videos with Mike Reid saying "Like a boss" in Chinese

[@lukeszidik196]

Would silicone finger caps work to replace the golden orange to protect the ice screw?

[@nathanwilson3185]

They setup a ice pick climb in the gym using leather straps on handles and foot chips, was extremely hard and they set it to use only ice style techniques

[@bryankano6247]

more great info for the community

[@thomasshe5314]

I'm going to start using Xiag ge lao ban when I guide on the glacier now

[@lewisli9162]

I am a Chinese. LMFAO where did you guys learned the xiang yi ge lao ban （像一个老板 like a boss）? I would suggest just say xiang ge lao ban and remove the yi, yi and ge both mean 1 and you can remove yi without losing any information, but you can’t remove ge.

[@HowNOT2]

Mike just kept saying A LOT when we were there. A bunch of his clients are Chinese and we definitely say it poorly if not completely wrong but it was funny

[@kadmow]

solution, duck tape and rope wrapping. (I have some experience with ski touring gear, not so much with pure ice climbing gear.)

[@capslock9031]

Tip for improvement, as per your request in the video: time stamps/segments in the video, so I can skip to the part I need easier. Cheers and thanks for the great video!

[@kyleloerzel8852]

Here's a fun one for ya Ryan. Rock climbers trust front pics, awkward. Rock climbers trusting Arborist Gaffs, super weird enough. Go give it a go.

[@BenjaminLovelady]

Would watch now, but going skiing instead...

[@Devoted96]

If I send you some old ice tool picks, could you make a video about breaking them via torquing? I've always wondered how much force is required to break them.

[@Devoted96]

For the boot section... boots come in B ratings... B1 boots are no good for ice climbing, B2 will generally suffice, and B3 is made specifically for ice and mixed. They have corresponding Crampon numbers, C1, C2, and C3

[@Devoted96]

Just finished the video.... Only other thing I'd add for ice axes... Non technical axes, e.g. glacier axes or axes like the Petzl Sum Tec will have a T rated shaft but NOT a T rated pick. This is important. Will they climb easy ice? Yeah, but you'll want something a little sturdier like a hybrid axe or a Petzl quark or nomic for rock. Specially if you're gonna twist and pull. Hybrid axes and ice tools will have T rated picks.

[@HowNOT2]

Great feedback. I'm not sure how to break them, can you give me specific details how I could do that in my lab?

[@timkelleher1569]

@@Devoted96 the alternative description of boots and crampons is hiking boots, 3/4 shank boots, and full shank boots; universal crampons, semi-auto crampons, and full auto crampons

[@gimpyo3354]

@@HowNOT2 Use cam crusher held horizontal.

[@nullzeal]

Hypothetically if one loses footing while in mid swing of the axe or maybe have a large gust of wind move the rope... How many hits can the rope take from an axe? Also loved the video, I've always wanted to try ice climbing and now I want to even more! Thank you all for your time and knowledge!

[@vanessaxoax7646]

The axes mostly arent even that sharp.

[@thorirgudjonsson7751]

What a legends.

[@fraktasticful]

The place where I live used to have snow and ice but doesn't anymore, is there any way to fix that?

[@kincheng]

Can I barrel knot into my biner before I cowabunga? Or do I need to figure 8? Don’t wanna spring for the trapper keeper locker…

[@thomasshe5314]

I find the rope systems a bit interesting. How long do you normally stay at an anchor? Where I guide, we are required to use a V-thread and a screw, or 2 V-threads since we are institutional. I understand the benefits of just throwing in 2 screws and a bag over it for efficiency, but where I work that would melt out in 15 minutes, even if it is insulated. In addition to this, wouldn't using a munter hitch to top belay on higher angles cause excessive twists?

[@RonMarish]

Great video and i totally agree getting a guide is a good idea.... but i learned more from videos and books than i learned in the very expensive half day ice climbing 'clinic' i went to. Just sayin

[@larryborshard7824]

I feel you, Ron. We've had three guides, plus many clinicians at ice festivals. Out of about ten, one gave his cell phone more attention and seemed disgruntled like we were wasting his time. All others had motivating, contagious enthusiasm. We made our goals clear, or they suggested goals, and we were never disappointed. Learned something, did something or climbed somewhere new. Sorry you had a bad guide experience. Hope you have a better one if you hit a sticking point.

[@nettewilson5926]

Why don’t you use back up screws for top-rope anchors since they aren’t as secure as bolted rock anchors? Like an anchor for the anchors. In rock climbing gear anchors have three gear placements generally.

[@mountainmandoug]

Ice screws are generally considered more reliable than rock protection. They don't walk or shift or come out if you pull them at a different angle. Thus there is less need for redundancy.

[@jhuntley575]

Massive arms 💪

[@zh3178]

this is related to the how not 2 course sections. have you, are you, or would you consider translating the written courses?` i think youtube can do semi translated subtitles.

[@brian_simmons_]

Im curious on how dangerous is it to strike the rope with your tools. Is there a chance a single strike might completely sever the rope?

[@Bidouillechurch]

Niiiiiiiice !

[@awoogagoogaloo2889]

my right ear really enjoyed this

[@HowNOT2]

I listened to it with head phones several times, which part was only in one ear?

[@IAmMaarten]

​@@HowNOT2 I think the whole section about boots/crampons and ice axes is louder on the right side than left. Not a big deal, but noticable

[@RC7718]

4:05 to 29:10 was much louder on the right ear.

[@lewisli9162]

Why would you use the toe basket when you have a toe welt? Isn’t the step in option better?

[@mountainmandoug]

There are a lot of reasons. Crampons with a toe basket are slightly less precise in use, although the difference is hard to notice in practice. The are quicker to put on and take off, and fit more different boots. Usually they "just work" without much fuss. Crampons with the toe bail are sometimes hard to get a good fit with, sometimes it takes lots of tweaking, switching out the bail for another brand, or bending metal to get them to fit and be reliable.

[@lewisli9162]

@@mountainmandoug thanks that makes sense for rental fleets. I guess full auto crampon would be more convenient if you own the gear and use them exclusively.

[@jovaraszigmantas]

Center center wide wide. I will bring this phrase to my grave. Lǎobǎn

[@maxgotts5895]

this guy is hilarious

[@wolfrodah]

i got that the office reference "Glaciar Mike xD"

[@wolfrodah]

Man i love Mike xDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD

[@lucaspfirrmann9973]

Imagine watching this and realize you were one of the clients he’s bashing

[@adriaangraas2961]

Did I hear Ryan saying that a triple locking carabiner is not good enough for leading at 33:35? Is this really so, I've never heard this? Can somebody refer/explain and give solutions?

[@jessecoonce1363]

The solution for leading is just tie in direct to the rope and forego using the carabiner.

[@LeCaNiVideos]

Great video! I'm going ice climbing the first time this weekend :D During the guide presentation, it would have made the video even better if you put some extra care to color correction. One camera was very saturated and one very pale and it was distracting.

[@HowNOT2]

I think switching from my nice camera to my phone is very difficult to fix so it isn't noticeable. I color graded and worked on exposure (it was way off) but being able to learn how to move the levers can be done on youtube, but not the eye for it. This year my goal is to learn all these skills in more detail.

[@LeCaNiVideos]

@@HowNOT2 haha! Fair enough. Good luck striving for improving through the year then :D As said, the video, and your videos in general, are very good! Just seeking out details to give advice on at this point ^^

[@dragade101]

Thanks. I'll let others enjoy this madness :) Sanity madness lol

[@wanglelife]

像个老板！

[@rbbl_]

Ice climbing is a lot easier than compression mining

[@fatkorn]

Very cool, but I keep thinking you're gonna stab someone in the face with your mic holder.

[@08yannch]

lol slopes

[@liama23]

Ok i had to watch the scene at 7:56 multiple times because i though he said im gay :(

[@matthewgough9533]

Xiàng yīgè lǎobǎn 像一个老板 Like a boss

[@Bryan-cj5ox]

thanks for doing this in one video. most of the 2 parters I get frustrated and end up watching something else and sometimes unsubbing

[@Grateful.For.Everything]

Is this really about ice climbing lol

[@Chance-ry1hq]

“Skiing is lame”. 😂. Sorry, but when I think about skiing it fires me up. When I think about ice climbing…. wait a minute I never think about ice climbing…

[@john_jacob_jingleheimerschmidt]

Go watch some Cody Townsend and see if you can ever say skiing is lame again

[@HowNOT2]

Just poking fun. There of course is bad ass skiing out there

[@YetAnotherAaron]

Unsubbed /s Gotta watch later, Going Skiing 😂

[@HowNOT2]

Resubscribe when you come back afterwards :)

[@brendaspence5356]

Super lame thumbnail. Not fun. Skiing is fun. Update: Pumped is much better. Super change. I would donate but the last time I did I got hacked.

[@HowNOT2]

Everything is an experiment and so we tried to see if that would get more traction since it made you look twice at the thumbnail. After a few days we changed it because it didn’t work like we thought. Was it patreon or PayPal that you got hacked?

[@brendaspence5356]

@@HowNOT2 oooh. That was super mind blowing. Super good enough😊