How did this happen?!?

How strong are ice screws? Plenty strong enough, but the question is more about how strong is the ice. We did 9 tests in this video and found the aluminum hangers on the Petzl Laser Speed breaks at 14kN, long 21cm screws are stronger than a carabiner, and of course that screws in tension hold better than when placed in shear, like so many tests in the past have confirmed. See our write up and spread sheet on our blog - www.hownot2.co....
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Sweet montage
00:28 Glacier Ice
01:17 Test setup
03:56 Test #1
05:24 Test #2
06:51 Test #3
07:59 Test #4
10:02 Test #5
12:21 Test #6
13:58 Test #7
14:52 Test #8
17:05 Test #9
18:00 Data Results
19:02 Bonus Footage

[@chrishaynes6064]

Dude I have been waiting for this video ever since the little teaser!!!! Great job getting it out with ALL the other projects you have going on.

[@benja_mint]

I would love to see this tested on ice that's just barely thick enough. E.g. 10cm sheet against rock... Or worse... 10cm thick but with air or flowing water behind it

[@matze8019]

Like the standard ice climbing conditions where i live XD

[@Davidadventures]

The leader never falls. 🤷‍♂️

[@benja_mint]

@@Davidadventures yeah but eventually you have to build an anchor to belay off of... Or bail off of

[@sam.n.sansalone]

Does anyone know the brand and model of the “22 kN sling… known for its abrasion resistance” technology, described at 16:43?

[@nathanwilson3185]

As a normal climber y’all are crazy and crazy sick

[@macmurfy2jka]

Love that you’re testing ice pro! Thanks!

[@canoepick1140]

Still going through the whole catalog again to the point it’s continuous you on me feed and I love the final shot with the climb and high line in the same shot at different areas yet so close.

[@ClimbingEasy]

Duuuuuuude, that shot at the end is fire!

[@HowNOT2]

Nice pun :)

[@intosiberiaadventures1217]

What about testing Abalakov thread?

[@JosephTMyers]

so much stronger---more boring for KZbin views and income, so they probably deliberately left it out--when they are assembled correctly, abalokov's rarely if ever fail in solid ice.

[@HowNOT2]

Comes out in about 4 weeks

[@HowNOT2]

I make about $50 per video in income so I just try to make the content the most people will enjoy since that doesn't even pay a fraction of the bills. We did do a V thread video and it's coming out soon

[@JosephTMyers]

@@HowNOT2 I'm impressed! Looking forward to seeing it! You seem to be doing what you love and loving what you do, so hopefully the bills are par for the course.

[@buckmanriver]

This was a really well-done edit! Great job all around!

[@lleberghappy]

Nice! And thank you for the bonus closing thoughts with the crew. Not leaving us hanging.

[@theiceclimberguy09]

Hey HowNOT2!!! I’m hoping you can share the drill bit you used in this video?? I have a cave with a wall of ice I’m trying to get through and this would help our efforts significantly!! There was an ice dig done a long time ago so we know there is stuff back there but it’s been plugged again since the late 80’s! I want to check it out again!

[@fire_n_ice1984]

I live a hour away from a glacier. It's so awesome to be able to go ice climbing any time of the year.

[@ACXB24]

Thank you for testing ice!! I've been waiting for this forever cause I feel comfortable with my rock gear but have always wondered how strong my ice screws really are. Testing v-threads would also be great to see and Ouray, Colorado is supposed to have the best waterfall ice there is hint hint!🤞😅

[@adriansalas3951]

Gees that last shot right at the end soooo beautiful. I envy and admire your work!

[@patc9102]

I took a fall on a 10cm screw clipped to a screamer. My feet were at the screw when I fell and it only popped one of the tacks on the screamer. Really cool you did this. Thanks

[@Govanification]

How often do you use screamers on your screws / how many do you carry? Just the stubbies / in shitty ice? Do you ever use them on the first screw off the belay for multipitch?

[@samsara592000]

Very good videos, (this and the V thread one). I would have liked to see the grivel screws tested. They blow out differently.

[@amateurmountainradio]

It would be interesting to compare the failure method of LONG aluminum vs steel vs titanium screws. e.g. would aluminum bend/break the tube before the hanger, etc. Results might be different in hard vs soft ice. Would also be interesting to see different length pickets tested in packed snow (your most likely top anchor for crevasse rescue)

[@KaleidoscopeNo5401]

I have been waiting for this exact video for a long ass time. thank you so much for everything Ryan

[@declanbrooks9215]

I would love to see a prucell prusic loop with only 1 bunny ear clipped in. Love the videos thx for all you do

[@HowNOT2]

Interesting idea. I did prucells that I'm editing. I am curious if i pulled only one eye though

[@hjeffcoat42]

Great stuff as always!

[@rooldaa]

thanks for this video guys!

[@Bidouillechurch]

Niiiiiice breaking ice stuff test ! You have to test some ice axes now !!!

[@simonsteinberger2935]

Wonderful! Would like to see even more tests in ice 😀

[@ItsAi-b3y]

This is wonderful. So stoked about the v thread vid too!!

[@wildliveunit292]

thanks for this effort !!! so cool.

[@hetistijmen]

That last shot is so sick.

[@stephanmantler]

That was such a blast!!

[@noahkreyenhagen8937]

The video I was waiting for!!!

[@JacobMcVicker-r4q]

Hey, Can you guys do break test on ice tool picks and handles?

[@jakejacobson2999]

Thanks for teaching me it’s a terrible idea to ever climb ice 😂😂

[@benja_mint]

I'm so glad about the new phrase I learnt today "snow poop" from the screws :D

[@MeshiMeshi-vu2hs]

Thank you so much for this video. Its great content.

[@nedmacallen]

16:17 hahaha

[@jeremiasandrade5123]

I would love to see a break test of V-thread and naked V-thread anchors!

[@brianacree8810]

Nice editing on this one

[@juliuspreston2505]

So, i am starting to test my own splices on my LS3 but i dont want to break the screen, and some of the larger arborist ropes break at some pretty high numbers. What carabiner do you use for your "fuse" to protect your LS3?

[@tracersedge]

That outro, wow!

[@akaTheDevil]

Wish you had live bluetooth data on that gauge that you can graph with time stamps.

[@LeCharles07]

"... in case the threads melt out..." Jesus, that's a scary thought I'd never had before.

[@bennettkraemer4897]

I saw a demonstration on a trip with the Alaska Mountaineering Club. It happens surprisingly fast. We left one screw in at a low level for demonstration, nothing connected to it, and by the end of the day you could pull it out with your hand. Screws and sun don’t mix - use v threads for a long day of top roping

[@GodzillaGoesGaga]

Seems to me that BD or Petzl needs to make a long screw (21cm ?) with a heavy loop (like a mallion width) and have a nylon sewn in loop hook in point.

[@GodzillaGoesGaga]

Basically like the end of a Cam.

[@String.Epsilon]

Always like your videos. Small feedback for the next one: On my devices, the music in this video is uncomfortably loud when I have the speech of you guys on the quiet end of understandable. So I have to constantly adjust the volume every time you fade between music and speech.

[@CJski]

Lol and what feel good 90s high school coming of age movie soundtrack did he get the music from?

[@dominiclehmann6889]

Why do some ice screws have two eyelets? Is it to be able to choose how much leverage you want depending on the direction of force?

[@MrFritz]

No, it's just more space for attachements like carabiners.

[@ajacobs223]

finally! now get up to Lee Vining and do some waterfall ice

[@ShurikB93]

Seeing the Icelanders pulling while sitting gives a strong viking vibe

[@Fabianwew]

Please test some fresh/bad/early/late ice next

[@alexatspace]

Thin ice probably delaminates easier form the wall when compared tp other ice..?

[@johnanderson1254]

So what I hear is 22cm ice screw and a clove hitch for backup if your hanger is aluminum lol

[@lukeaurand5722]

I wolf love to see how screws preform i different quality ice. I think all ice climbers would want to

[@Devoted96]

As an Alpinist... THANK YOU

[@gavin2391]

Man I hope we can save these glaciers so I can whip on them😅

[@HowNOT2]

V threads episode is out! kzbin.info/www/bejne/iaHVh5uVjMRgiZo Graphs and charts - www.hownot2.com/post/ice-screw-break-tests-in-iceland Check out our new store! hownot2.store/

[@HyperHyena88]

Money shot 16:18

[@nelsonianb1289]

Ice screws tested on de-laminated water ice, and ice with water flowing behind.

[@andrewhunter6536]

Ryan has a new jacket?

[@svenmccalljr.4268]

10-15º has been tested to be best when WI climbing and protecting but in the other direction you started to test in the beginning. Essentially, you want to **avoid** shear on the barrel and instead leave the threads to hold as much as they can before shear acts on the barrel. So this is why you place ice screws 10-15º in a positive angle and not negative (so the the hanger should be lower than the tip of the screw). As far as I understand it all - which could be wrong haha. The BD aluminum vs steel ice screw video talks about this nicely (kzbin.info/www/bejne/oGLOdWOXqbGCatU)

[@petemuggli8852]

Cool

[@jamesknowles4740]

I thought the ice was in Greenland and the green was in Iceland

[@alifeoncechris]

This was fascinating

[@BlueScreenOfDeathPL]

Go in a couple of metric units 😂 Ah ISO.

[@adventureswithfrodo2721]

This makes me wonder what kind if ice climbers these 2 are. I started ice climbing almost 50yrs ago and you never clipped a screw in the ring unless it was flush against the ice You would sling it just like a pin that bottomed out. I would hav thought tou would have to have chopped out crude ice. But I've never been on a glacier like that.

[@--RSL--]

You don't need 10 ppl trying to pull a bolt out... Just use a tie down ratchet...

[@RwP223]

Structured water

[@luksweam]

OOOOOO, man! I am binge watching your vids and I am SOOO glad you've abandoned this kind of "corporate fun-and-excitement force-inducing" music.

[@MisterFixit69]

thats some amazing slomo of the ice breaking

[@bar10dr]

The worlds glaciers are melting, in 100 years this might not be an option anymore :( Love the video though!

[@BRENDANTHERED]

In 100 years the earth could be covered in new glaciers again.

[@terrydavis8451]

The Icelandic chick with the blue helmet is fine af.

[@matiascamprubi-soms7719]

These guys are silly. I hope to see some of you out there in the world one day.

[@ralphmunn1685]

Bro, glacial ice is FAR weaker than vertical water ice. Who thought this would be good ice, or even in any way comparable to what we in the States call climbable ice??? As a rule of thumb, glacial ice is considered "50% ice." It's just NOT as dense or strong as true water ice!

[@michanowak8579]

second

[@poetac15]

First