Ice Screw Tests at kzbin.info/www/bejne/fqrCiGRmrbKlea8 and this blog and data is at www.hownot2.com/post/vthreads Check out our new store! hownot2.store/
@1onfire619 Жыл бұрын
You are actually doing so much for spreading climbing knowledge and awareness, you should receive grants from alpine associations.
@winterroadspokenword4681 Жыл бұрын
He doesn’t need alpine associations. We can donate directly to him, simply because we like the work 😊 That way we cut out the middlemen.
@sinisterthoughts28964 ай бұрын
True, but doesn't mean he can't be supported by both.@@winterroadspokenword4681
@luc4662 Жыл бұрын
Would love to see two follow ups: - what about 16 cm screws ? - test in some nice blue/transparent icefall ice
@BorgTinderne Жыл бұрын
Beyond thankyou. I'm planning a trip to Greenland in 2024. Touch wood, we go around the problems & watch the world go by. But ... should we need to go up / down a glacier that we didn't expect, then confidence in how strong a v-thread is pretty high on the list of things to know.
@luc4662 Жыл бұрын
Sounds interesting… can you make us dream and share a bit your plans?
@Cthulhucultist1 Жыл бұрын
woo! thanks guys. I would be super stoked to see this on water ice as well as 10-13cm a thread strength.
@coltonharris4556 Жыл бұрын
It’d be cool if you tested snow anchors. Bollard T picket Ice axe boot belay
@CJski Жыл бұрын
I think he did test some snow anchors in another video
@sveinoscarskilleas7561 Жыл бұрын
Thanks!
@jomaier9195 Жыл бұрын
I think this the perfect channel for this issue: I feel like we as sportsclimbers destroy our holds by "polishing" them with our sweat and chalk. In the long term our grandchildren will have to climb polished holds without good friction. Can we as a climbing community avoid this? For example by making it a habit to clean all the holds after sending the route? Probably it is too much work and annoying for most climbers... Or is there another way? Looking forward to a discussion :)
@matonni7 Жыл бұрын
You still can forbid use of chalk, as in many (sandstone) crags in CZ or DE :D And honestly, when the rock has a good friction (most of jurassic limestone in Europe, or volcanic rocks), it's more of a habit than of a need.
@benja_mint Жыл бұрын
A metric inch 😅😆
@tehrater480 Жыл бұрын
Cool stuff! Loved it
@Benlucky13 Жыл бұрын
Super surprised how strong those shallow looking v-threads were, though I'm no ice climber. Didn't expect even the 6mm cord to break before the ice Part of me wonders how strong that drill bit would be as an ice screw with a little modification to the chuck end
@drcrocodile1 Жыл бұрын
The angle of that pull was not the angle of a fall? Still impressively strong.
@jasonjb7892 Жыл бұрын
Very much appreciate the ice videos. As an avid ice climber, who has taken a grand total of 1 ice fall ( system held!) I've wanted to see demos vs. reading about how/why screws fail. I will say that you chose excellent ice to test with, as opposed to the aerated, wet, brittle, plating, or other less than 'ideal' ice I've led in the past. Despite the test results, and my fall experience, I still will never trust ice. But still, great videos, much appreciated.
@petewhittington9399 Жыл бұрын
What about using a Velcro closure strap. Easy to remove/open the case, and easy/quick to close again? (I appreciate you needed a "Band-Aid" solution while in the field, but moving forward?)
@laneeardink9849 Жыл бұрын
9:52 - "You had like, a metric inch." A metric inch? Must be an American thing.
@daxhopkins7312 Жыл бұрын
The inch is defined by the metric system. The standard inches of the imperial system are, in a way, metric inches
@joh65727 күн бұрын
I would be interested to see how a knot block in a V-thread would do. Is it weaker than the normal way (double rope) or even 6mm paracord?
@timtam28792 ай бұрын
I wanna buy a drill instead of ice screw.like yours.looks very fast to make a deep hole😅😅
@stevenharper6394 Жыл бұрын
What's a metric inch?? 😂
@docteurlowbat Жыл бұрын
Well, it's an inch. Because as far as there where differents values accros the world they decide that the inch is exactly ...25.4 mm. So metric system rules the inch !
@sophiakukurovska8083 Жыл бұрын
Why didn't you test the 8mm thread?🥺
@gotta-jibboo9139 Жыл бұрын
Thank you so much Ryan! Been patiently waiting for this one!
@boudibla4011 Жыл бұрын
Would love to see a comparison with Waterfall Ice, and a comparison V-thread and A-thread.
@hugh4658 Жыл бұрын
From memory, A-threads are meant to be marginally stronger, but they are both so strong that the difference between them in their intended application is kinda semantics. I go with A-threads because it's way easier to line it up correctly and therefore faster.
@markus717 Жыл бұрын
Title shouldn't be "ropes vs ice, which breaks first", it's "ropes vs glacier ice..". Big diff!
@dakotamatata Жыл бұрын
Are you sure the measurements you’re getting are accurate? It looks like you have the safety line attached to the line scale, wouldn’t it measure the shock from being caught by its safety line?
@gustav2828 Жыл бұрын
Go waterfall ice!
@A_F_Makes5 ай бұрын
Who invented V threads in ice?
@MikeDCWeld Жыл бұрын
You should go back and retest the DEEP A-thread using the Slack Snap. Should be fun hauling it out there.
@UNIQUENAME2007 Жыл бұрын
dope to see you testing on ice!
@jackiceful Жыл бұрын
want to see similar tests in 'normal' cliff ice with these ever so changing temperature climate ;-0)
@Overitall805 Жыл бұрын
Ice = transient
@SileDevil Жыл бұрын
that ice is not ideal
@DGrd_8 күн бұрын
"a metric inch"
@UNIQUENAME2007 Жыл бұрын
coat hanger > sweatshop made v thread tool
@tereza6809 Жыл бұрын
Nice job guys! Thank you💪😘
@user-mz6sh4uo7u Жыл бұрын
i wonder why it'll be going away anyway
@pat13487 Жыл бұрын
Interesting
@ajacobs223 Жыл бұрын
Lee Vinning waterfall ice next
@robotflex Жыл бұрын
Thankyou!
@ronl7131 Жыл бұрын
Interesting experiments
@raedslacklines Жыл бұрын
👌🏻
@jeffreycarman218511 ай бұрын
Great video!
@kensmith8832 Жыл бұрын
This is some great engineering data. I like watching the interatomic bond being tested to the breaking point. I call this the interatomic bomb theory, which is a failure pun. Engineering jokes are only understood by a few.
@pjccwest28 күн бұрын
❄
@lordofnothing. Жыл бұрын
thanks! ♥
@perryjonsson Жыл бұрын
At 9:54 - A metric inch? - What is that?
@markus717 Жыл бұрын
25.4 mm
@adventureswithfrodo2721 Жыл бұрын
These were used on lead climbing in Russia 20 + years ago, maybe more. Best vthread tool is a coat hanger. If you bring a bud ass drill wgy don't you bring a come-a-long.
@mountainmandoug Жыл бұрын
This is great content. I just had to take the chance to make the first comment.
@mussaranya Жыл бұрын
Why do you call them "V threads" instead of by their name, "Avalakovs"?