Check out our website to see all the materials used and more build photos: punishedprops.com/2018/10/01/large-vacuumformer/
@Krisswords6 жыл бұрын
Call it "The Warm Sucker"
@Ailish_and_Una6 жыл бұрын
where do you buy your styrene? i used to buy it at my university but since i graduated i cant buy from them and i havent been able to find affordable styrene anywhere
@MonkeyManThe3rd6 жыл бұрын
Call it Indica
@punishedprops6 жыл бұрын
We have a couple local plastic suppliers in Seattle. Tap Plastics is our favorite!
@tmber016 жыл бұрын
Hey PPA, you could name it "Shape Sucker"
@FrugalFlyRodder2 жыл бұрын
Hey Bill, it's been a while since vacuuforming for me (worked at a sign company). A little tip: at the end of the vacuum draw, if there are some imperfections where the vacuum didn't pull all the plastic, use a heat gun to reheat the plastic as the vacuum continues to draw. That should fix it.
@ryananthony48402 жыл бұрын
How thick of material were you doing?
@KiEuKiTo Жыл бұрын
@@ryananthony4840He's still measuring.
@barrylitchfield2504 жыл бұрын
That was kind of difficult to watch. Several years ago (~40 years) I set up a vacuum forming operation for a company that used thousands of parts made on vacuum form machines. Seeing you struggling with starting from scratch to build a vacuum forming machine was hard to watch. All of the things that didn't work, and needed to be fixed, were very common when you're first learning about vacuum forming. I was glad to see you finally pulled a successful batch of parts. Good luck on your continued adventures in vacuum forming from the ground up. A good, wholesome video you made. It showed the good, the bad, and the ugly of starting to learn a new skill set.
@misterfixit19526 жыл бұрын
Although you are heating the plastic (to be formed), you also need to heat up the area around the form and vacuum table. As soon as the hot plastic hits the cold form and table it quickly looses heat and looses detail, thus the webbing around the bottom of the mould. Use an infrared bulb (or two) over the vacuum table to preheat the bed and form.
@Richez16 жыл бұрын
This was actually very handy for me as im a younger diesel mechanic and i have loads of tools and this was a perfect way for me to make custom tool organizers for all of my tools even the oddball ones i own and so far its working perfect i just used black plastic and it was slightly thicker for durability. I also made a couple tool trays for a couple other guys in the shop and they love it so far! Great idea. Been trying to solve this problem for a while!
@punishedprops6 жыл бұрын
That's fantastic!
@tomnajjar87999 ай бұрын
I know its been five years, but what plastic did you use and where did you get it?
@Richard-nb4iv4 жыл бұрын
2 years later and this video is still worth it. For your heater( you may have solved this long ago), I volunteered once building an Open 60 sailboat, they used prepregged carbon fibre/epoxy. The autoclave they built covered the whole boat and they used refective styrofoam panels with minimal wood framing. Worked like a charm! Loved the video and the trouble shooting process. Thank you!
@punishedprops4 жыл бұрын
Thanks so much for watching and for the tips!
@MrCubflyer11 ай бұрын
best video Ive ever seen on how to make a vacuum forming table . It seems like most people treat them like its a secret or something they show the end result but no details on how to do it thanks.
@KP-nx8lo5 жыл бұрын
Thank you for always showing yourself wearing proper safety gear! It makes others more conscious of safety
@jennifermeaker6152 жыл бұрын
Dope! I love how you showed your trials and errors, and talked through the various issues and possible solutions, etc. Super cool to see the realistic process, and appreciative that the time you put in will save us time when we take this project on. Thanks!!
@wayneparris34396 жыл бұрын
A couple tips from an aerospace tool maker / metal worker ... now retired. I am making these while watching the video so if you address something after I say it, good on you for seeing something and taking care of it! When cutting angle to make a frame, esp alum, simply notch the top there is no need to cut all the way down the sides, you just cut a "triangle" out of the top and bend the sides, less work and a stronger frame results. Tap magic... unless it is specifically for Alum, is not to be used on alum. There is a chemical reaction with the chloronated fluid and alum, bad things result. Center punching is good, nice work. Interesting use of window hardware! 1,2,3 blocks are GREAT to use for quick measurements! Those heaters should be radiant heat so if you made a closed box and made it deeper IE more distance between the heater and the plastic, you should get a wider pattern of heat. A heat GUN can be used to spot heat for better detail under vacuum. . In addition, a cover over the plastic will also hold the heat in, without a cover you have a large radiating surface. Over all score I would give it a 9.5 out of 10. Nice job!
@punishedprops6 жыл бұрын
Ha! Thanks and great tips! =)
@alexjones80586 жыл бұрын
I’ve started keeping a log of all my vacuform pulls: time, temperature, material used, that sort of thing. It makes it easier to keep track of what works well, and what doesn’t- especially what doesn’t.
@punishedprops6 жыл бұрын
Fantastic tip Alex!
@lawsonroesch1014 жыл бұрын
I am making one for the first time what do you recommend
@Katya5cat Жыл бұрын
Great video I wish that I had seen this years ago. I made mine similarly but I added strategically placed holes in the molds to allow more vacuum where the definition needs some help.
@MarkWarbington6 жыл бұрын
Hey Bill. Just one critique for you. MDF is porous (you can actually pull a vacuum through it) so you're probably losing a lot of your vacuum potential to the underside of the table. Just give the bottom and the sides a coat of polyurethane and that will seal it right up. Good luck!
@punishedprops6 жыл бұрын
Great addition Mark, thanks!
@evilution_ltd6 жыл бұрын
No way you are losing any vacuum through MDF.
@vasili12076 жыл бұрын
That is not possible as mdf is gas tight. As it's a compressed fibres impregnated with its own binder. as. Really shitty advice doctor mdf
@cohode62906 жыл бұрын
You are absolutely incorrect, MDF is extremely porous and will not hold a vacuum, try to make a vacuum camber with an MDF lid, you will find out how porous MDF really is.
@vasili12076 жыл бұрын
@@cohode6290 bullshit
@gatorwing62312 жыл бұрын
Nice work. I watched a vacuum form machine work. The big difference is the heat is kept on even as the vacuum is pulled to completion. The heaters were above the plastic and lowered evenly using cables and pulleys.
@SoHautRightNow6 жыл бұрын
Ah, that book is such an awesome resource! Awesome build. Loving the new "as we go" style.
@thiagomirandaautomacaoindu8883 жыл бұрын
kzbin.info/www/bejne/noXHoYt8os6erM0
@hajerm2 жыл бұрын
Lovely tutorial! Thanks for sharing. How come ppl don’t just use metal screen instead of drilling holes every inch? Wouldn’t there be more suction thru a screen?
@Ethan_and_Astra6 жыл бұрын
When casting its a good idea to pull past the object. It gets rid of the webbing ruining the result and means it can be cut off. Either be able pull past the table height or raise the master via a stand. Idk if im making any sense. Also I love the scifi panel idea.
@punishedprops6 жыл бұрын
I get what you mean. Probably a down side to the way I built this frame. It stops at the platen.
@bigbadmanjocko6 жыл бұрын
You just need a shallow spacer under the buck that's smaller than the buck so it has some undercut.
@colinfindlay47906 жыл бұрын
@@punishedprops Adam Savage has the video you need :-) kzbin.info/www/bejne/eZLGo2SNmrCCsLs
@katiejo10952 жыл бұрын
My 1962 Mattle vacuform says to test the plastic by pressing the corners to see if they are playable. Also each piece of plastic has wholes all way around each side that seat the plastic on pins for even tension. It would be easy to add a few pins to the frame and drill a few holes on each side of the plastic sheets.
@skuffles6 жыл бұрын
What a fun project! For the platen I would've done away with the mesh and added a ring on the elbow as a stop so that it doesn't go all the way to the top. This allows for a higher CFM since there's less air resistance. The other change would be to make your "oven" shorter so that there is less volume for the heaters to heat up alleviating some lost heat calories. Otherwise, great build :D
@IDMTB3D6 жыл бұрын
you need the distance to distribute the heat more evenly to the corners
@punishedprops6 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the tips!
@dolfinmagikpro6 жыл бұрын
@Brandon Winters - Wouldn't putting a small fan to circulate the air help alleviate this issue? Just a thought.
@chrislinda36236 жыл бұрын
@@dolfinmagikpro That was my first thought but you would probably want to get yourself an old or replacement oven fan. Catch being that most of the heat is radiant heat from the heat elements so your really only blowing around the secondary heat (from the plastic). Which is also why the "10 min preheat" probably isnt doing a lot. If you sit under those heaters its hot when they are on and cold when they are not but they dont really heat a room very well only surfaces they shine their light on. If you really wanted to spread the heat out changing the curve of the reflector would be the answer although probably a real pain. Making the curve shallower would enable the IR light to spread out more giving a more even heat but the foil box is probably doing similarly assuming you are far enough away with the box height. A V shape of mylar would probably give the profile you are looking for with the reflective box the rabbit hole is never ending. Those heaters are built to focus heat and that isnt really what you want but "modification is the mother of invention" or some such.
@christopherknerr28516 жыл бұрын
Why not use Mylar faced styro-insulation boards for the wall material? dual purpose as it would insulate better and reflect any radiant heat back to the center of the box. Just a thought :)
@wilwrk4tls6 жыл бұрын
I very much like the build! I'm moving soon and will finally have room for one in my new workshop space. Something we used to do a place I worked was put carpet padding under the master which let it pull vacuum all around. If there's a few more dollars to throw at the project instead of aluminum foil to line the box you could get a roll of Reflectix- it's great stuff and you'll bake the plastic in no time! You'll lose a LOT less heat. Also you could tape off unused areas and make a smaller vacuum area on the table to use with a smaller frame. Multiple tables in one.
@punishedprops6 жыл бұрын
Great tips, thanks for sharing! =D
@markevens6 жыл бұрын
Great video! I loved watching the struggle and troubleshooting you did. It's nice to know that it is okay to not get it right the first time, and make adjustments when needed.
@thiagomirandaautomacaoindu8883 жыл бұрын
kzbin.info/www/bejne/noXHoYt8os6erM0
@Murat_Ustundag2 жыл бұрын
Instead of the steel mesh, you use for the vacuum system, stick the pipes just like you would make a floor heating system. but group the above holes and place the pipes, one pipeline every 4-5 rows. also, join the pipes in each group into a single pipe. then fill between the pipes with a filling material such as silicone, liquid plastic, plaster or epoxy. After it hardens, remove the pipes. so you will have pipelines distributed into groups from a single pipe inlet. In this way, you vacuum the air in a controlled and equal amount. You put a lot of effort into making this video. Thank you for keeping us informed.
@searchXghost6 жыл бұрын
Bill: "So you're probably wondering..." Me: "Why you counter sunk holes that are going behind a bracket?" Bill: "... why I'm going with this aluminum." Me: "Nope. Not wondering that at all."
@charetjc6 жыл бұрын
He's "removing" the "burrs" so the brackets are flush. Yeaaaaa, that's it.
@Pr0toc014 жыл бұрын
De-burring the holes
@DeaconFowler Жыл бұрын
what about using an old dryer housing for the oven? and maybe the vaccum table? ideas?
@IntrexinCustom6 жыл бұрын
Couple of thoughts on the machine, As far as tripping breakers stuff usually draws the most amps at start up so doing what you did and starting one at a time is a good idea and point to make. I think the real thing with the overhead heater not liking life was the large gaps on top. If you had closed the top gaps and do aluminum tape on the inside I bet it would of worked. Also you might want to think about getting on of those foot on/off switchs for the vac
@Ainsy19706 жыл бұрын
Regarding heat. It rises and will always try to equalise. Life can be hard enough without fighting nature too.... Underside heaters and good insulation is definitely the way to go.
@banddboy4 жыл бұрын
A great video, most diy videos are edited and only show things going well. You had the courage to shoot from the hip and included the mistakes. I've known for years that the only way to learn is through the mistakes we make, nice job and thank you.
@punishedprops4 жыл бұрын
We're really glad you found it so helpful!
@vicgarbutt33102 жыл бұрын
You could also use rivets for the platten frame.
@Serenityindailylife6 жыл бұрын
You should look at frank's at tested. He has one he got from Jamie thats very simple and powerful...same above type heater assembly.
@philgallagher14 жыл бұрын
I for one have never seen Frank and Bill in the same video. I'm convinced they're the same person!!
@iluvhistory26 жыл бұрын
I’m glad to see you making something that’s not perfect. Designing as you go is how many of us do things, we try one thing, and if it doesn’t work, we try to think of a better way. I think an imperfect build video is very inspiring.
@northernfreelance57886 жыл бұрын
start the vac before you lay the sheet on.it needs no delay when applying.
@Cee.Jay.716 жыл бұрын
This was going to be my comment also, it's common sense that each second that passes the plastic is hardening! Anyway, must rush - I'm going to go throw some room temperature plastic at my mother-in-law to see if I can make a mask for Halloween.
@gregd.885 жыл бұрын
Your mother-in-law needs a mask? Mine came with her own!
@GannMan77889 ай бұрын
Could your old pegboard idea with glued on aluminum foil work fine for heat protection? Probably going to make something in between sizes of your small and this large one
@Celticshade6 жыл бұрын
*tosses duplicator sitck in the trash* welp guess it wont work anymore *turns away* *looks back* and now there is 16 trash cans, ugh.
@Brokendiode6 жыл бұрын
Okay let me just start by saying great job with the Platen and the heaters. Very similar to the commercial unit that I had to troubleshoot and Repair a number of times. I spent 17years as a lineman (high voltage electrician) at Fort Irwin Army base the national training center where they trained all the troops for Desert Shield and Desert Storm. They created mauk battles and they made US Military vehicles look like Iraqi vehicles. The parts were all made it that vacuum former. The Platen was 8' x 12' the heaters were 3 groups of elements 9000 watts each this thing ran 480 volts 3 phase. Quite impressive to watch it work. But he's where that one defferred from yours it did not use a Shop Vacuum for the vacuum source because a shop vac can't generate enough vacuum to produce the great details that a high vacuum source can. What they had was a small Rootes blower set up a vacuum pump that pulled a high vacuum on a 150 gallon air storage tank then that was coupled to the Platen through a 2" sellinoid valve and a manifold on the bottom of the Platen. This hole thing was all automated. The heaters were on top like you started to do and they had timers on them it would heat for a preset period of time then the frame that held the heated plastic was attached to 2 air rams like hydraulic cylinders only not as powerful and much faster. When the timer cut off the heater it opened air solenoid valves which quickly pushed the plastic onto the Platen where another sensor triggered the vacuum solenoid valve to open and the high vacuum was instantly applied pulling the hot plastic down to form great details it picked up the smallest of details from the mold. So if you really want to get great details ditch the shop vacuum and get your self a refrigeration service oil type vacuum pump and an old air compressor air tank probably 20 - 30 gallon and you will need to take it to a welding shop and have them cut a 2" hole in it and weld a 2" fitting in so you can connect a 2" ball valve. Those can be opened quickly there not as fast as a solenoid valve but still quite quick enough.
@browndyt6 жыл бұрын
Instead of bolting the aluminum frame together, using some 'low temp aluminum braising rods' would create a joint stronger than tig welded aluminum. and only needs a plumbing blowtorch. as a bonus it will also fill in any imperfections for those who do not have a metal band saw. There are several you tube videos showing how to use it.
@punishedprops6 жыл бұрын
Very cool!... or... HOT!?
@brettaylor26616 жыл бұрын
wow. I never knew about this. I've been a tig welder a long time and always recommend welding as a last resort. There are so many ways to join things without distorting them like welding has the potential to do. Thanks for the tip on the deal.
@GFlCh6 жыл бұрын
Great build, great video. I haven't built one of these, I'm not an expert at this and I don't play on on TV, but I did think of a couple of suggestions ... here is just one. It's a bit complex, but not so much if you plan the build around it from the start: For the heater box: 1) Cut a slot in one side, about 1-inch down from the top, and for the full width of the box (yes, this would cut through your hinges but it could be planned for in a new build. The height of the slot should be about, but a little bit bigger than 1/4 inch, but see step 5 to plan the slot dimension. 2) Next cut 2 strips of wood, say 3/8 or 1/2 inch (square in cross-section), and as long as the inside dimension of the box. 3) Attach these 2 strips of wood inside the box, on the 2 sides adjacent to the side where you cut the slot, about 1-inch down from the top of the box. The top of the strips should be even with the bottom edge of the slot you cut, in step-1. 4) Optionally, an additional similar strip of wood could be attached in a similar way to the remaining side (the side opposite to the slot). 5) Prepare a piece of wood (Plywood, MDF, Masonite, ...). Logically this would be made of the same material as the material used for the box. The thickness will be 1/4 inch, but this piece of wood has to fit into the slot cut in step-1, so if using a thicker piece of wood, the height of the slot cut in step-1 needs to match. The width of this wood needs to be lightly smaller (narrower) than the inside dimension of the box. The length needs to be about 1 inch longer than the inside dimension of the box. 6) Optionally, cut a strip of the same material, about 1 inch wide, and the length of the box. Mount this strip about 1/2 inch above the slot, using a continuous hinge, or a few individual hinges, or interlocking screw-eyes and hooks. This piece should swing (pivot) to block or allow access to the slot. 7) Insert the piece of wood cut in step-5 into the slot and push it all the way in, until it touches the opposite side of the box. This piece will be a "lid/cover" that you slide in or out as needed. Now, when you use the heat-box, you can pre-heat the box, then place your framed plastic sheet on top, and slide the cover out, and you have full instant heat.
@BuckJolicoeur6 жыл бұрын
Three things: 1: Use insulation around the box to decrease heat loss. 2: Add a plastic mirror (45 degree angle) to the bottom so you don't have to squat down for the IR Sensors. 3: Blow an air chuck into your form to release it.
@lastresortblades34336 жыл бұрын
Great build..with the hinges set with the frames touching what's the thickest material you can clamp? I do mostly .080 kydex and would like to be able to use the same for bigger blades... as well as play armor for my kids lol
@dougsundseth69046 жыл бұрын
Rather than using a purely radiative heating scheme, which has the unevenness problems that you ran into here, is there any reason you couldn't have added a fan and made this more convective? That would be a more even heat source and would have the added advantage that you should be able to keep the plastic below the heat source, which is less prone to ... letting out smoke ... and would also be much smaller, and thus more efficient. The big issue that I can think of would be sourcing a fan (and connections) that could handle the glass-transition temps you're looking at. This would assume that the fan lives entirely inside the box; if you were to put the fan outside, you would need to heat the inlet air as well as the chamber air, which seems more difficult to me, but might work. As an aside, I found it kind of funny that your shop has a spindle sander but apparently no large hole saws. 8-)
@punishedprops6 жыл бұрын
I've considered it, but I've never heard off anyone else using a fan for their vacuum former heating elements. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
@dougsundseth69046 жыл бұрын
@@punishedprops After thinking about it for a bit (like you do), If you were to keep the motor out of the heated space and just run a shaft through the wall with a metal-bladed fan inside, you could probably use inexpensive components. The hole in the wall of the oven wouldn't let out much heat, especially if it were kept close to the diameter of the shaft. (And you could even use a bearing at the wall if over-engineering is your thing.) 8-)
@govindanandadas80793 жыл бұрын
Hi, thank you for this great video. I am new with this idea but I would like to know that would it be possible to use acrylic felt fabric sheet instead of EVA foam? It is polyester type material. Have You ever try it? Or maybe would you try it? Thanks
@14Mew6 жыл бұрын
Bill you might think about adding some wooden handles on the sides of the frame similar to old metal pans. That way you don't have to worry about gloves
@punishedprops6 жыл бұрын
That's a pretty fantastic idea!
@startide6 жыл бұрын
You still need the gloves to help the plastic push through as you vacuum it down... plus you are always at risk of touching the frame while handling the whole thing. Handles can help sure, but keep the gloves !
@KeniaRutledge Жыл бұрын
You made this look incredibly easy to do. Wow. You made this look incredibly easy to do. Wow.
@jones16186 жыл бұрын
I think you could do without the extra screws if you glued a thin rubber gasket around the aluminum frame. That would grip the plastic better and more evenly. Also, if you regularly need to vac-form smaller pieces, it seems like you could just cut an adapter matte out two thin metal sheets that would clamp into the larger frame. Name ideas: Ooie-gooey Prop Drop, Shape Sucker, Fantastic Elastic Plastic Press (FEPP)
@punishedprops6 жыл бұрын
That's a pretty great idea!
@jones16186 жыл бұрын
Another suggestion: You might get more even heating if you added a PC muffin fan inside to create internal convection (not to draw in or exhaust air).
@WATTScostumes2 жыл бұрын
Evazote forms beautifully. Have you tried it ?
@Sandriell6 жыл бұрын
FYI: Highly recommend wearing at least a dust-mask when working with MDF- creates super fine dust that is terrible for your lungs.
@vortex__cronos95145 жыл бұрын
Sandriell he had one?
@perehowlett58536 жыл бұрын
do you think while have the vacum running you could run a heat gun on the plastic so there is less webbing
@andybogart25036 жыл бұрын
I suggest you throw that vac in reverse and invite me over for some air hockey!!
@themadmachinist86375 жыл бұрын
I like the idea. If you had to do it over again do you think you would consider using the heat element and controls from a retired oven? I have so many thoughts and ideas about how I would use this.
@punishedprops5 жыл бұрын
Yeah that would have been ideal, but we had to put this together pretty quick so we went with a different option
@warcorer6 жыл бұрын
This should be the "Carbonite Chamber", also you should vacuum form a Han Solo 3D print and paint it to look like carbonite from Star Wars.
@divineintervention1014 ай бұрын
What kind of material would you use to fill the mold? Hard I mean not silicone
@RBCharger6 жыл бұрын
There is no reason to preheat the box.
@aetheldread6 жыл бұрын
Yeah...that confused me. I don't understand why it was necessary to heat it without the plastic... if anything... I would assume it would heat faster being closed off.
@sgartner4 жыл бұрын
I jumped in here to say the exact same thing. All he's doing there is wasting the initial heat (electricity). Yes, I know it's been two years...
@jamesforler6897 Жыл бұрын
He was concerned with getting an even temp across the plastic at all times. I agree that pre heating wouldn’t be necessary but if you wanted to, I’d make a temp cover to improve efficiency
@air-drive Жыл бұрын
Tell us more about the chevron tape, it looks impressive.
@snouty20056 жыл бұрын
OMG I already own that book! That almost never happens :D
@punishedprops6 жыл бұрын
It's such a great book!
@andy-in-indy6 жыл бұрын
It's one of the best books on the subject. There is so much to learn from it!
@snouty20056 жыл бұрын
:)
@Cartocopia2 жыл бұрын
Curious if a (poster) snap frame would be suitable to hold the plastic sheeting? Out of the box solution, just needs the middle cut out (assuming it comes in a desired size)
@cjfish63495 жыл бұрын
I made a foot switch to operate the heating coils and the vacuum, leaving my hands free. Don't need any help.
@Mortimusmoose2 жыл бұрын
So, how hot was the wood on the outside? I need to make an oven, and was wondering about using wood....I have ceramic insulation to go in between the heat and wood though.
@captain_qwerty26266 жыл бұрын
14:57 "0 days glitter free" hahaha.
@ChrisBigBad6 жыл бұрын
I wonder if you get better heating, if you put a lid on the frame for isolation, so the heat does not go from the plastic into the room.
if the box was the size of one heater squared would the heater be enough since its not square?
@LukeTN276 жыл бұрын
Would have been cheaper to just cut some wood spacers and not use the wire mesh.
@punishedprops6 жыл бұрын
That's a great alternative!
@vodundesigns30766 жыл бұрын
I built a machine a few years ago and used a router to carve the air ways into the mdf board instead of using spacers around the edge so I would have less edge seems to leak. www.vodundesigns.com/project/vacuum-forming-machine/
@kentvandervelden6 жыл бұрын
@@vodundesigns3076 Wow, nice website and projects!
@Skullyweb6 жыл бұрын
Yep did spacer blocks with mine. For the platen I stole the biggest cookie sheet my wife had. Been using it over 10 years now.
@brettaylor26616 жыл бұрын
i was thinking about that material they use in office ceilings over lighting. its a plastic mesh that has some height to it.
@dudebroham40835 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the awesome tutorial. I'm not sure how you prepped the sheet metal but you could emphasize that preparation is key when using adhesives. A lot of times they use a protective coating or even petroleum on the sheet metal so I usually clean it really well with 91% isopropyl rubbing alcohol and then I'll lightly rough it up with some 220 sandpaper. Thanks again I'm looking forward to building a table for myself for forming and laminating wood.
@punishedprops5 жыл бұрын
So glad you enjoyed the video!
@MrMonk0527986 жыл бұрын
The hot box
@ShadowMage3D6 жыл бұрын
I wonder if covering the light-box with a Mylar survival blanket would help it get the temperature you want. You'd have to take the blanket off before forming, but it might help.
@Oldman-Havok6 жыл бұрын
The Suk-o-matic 9000!!!
@henno3889 Жыл бұрын
Great example. I have question though: for vacuum forming transparent parts (e.g. windshields, light covers etc) can you still use infrared heaters, or does the IR light go straight through the transparent material without heating it up? Has anybody tried?
@jennimorgan3946 жыл бұрын
“Acme Atomic Styrene Transmutational Energy Amplification Device”
@millenniumf11385 жыл бұрын
For mechanical connections that are going to go through a lot of movement, like the bolts holding the frame together, it doesn't hurt to put a little Locktite on the bolts so that it won't work its way loose over time. If you're concerned about being able to disassemble it later, use the blue kind. It'll do the job, and if you ever need to disassemble it, it'll come loose with a little force.
@punishedprops5 жыл бұрын
Thanks!
@Hinanolaulii226 жыл бұрын
Call it the holey Grill
@punishedprops6 жыл бұрын
HA! Yes!!!
@b87021316 жыл бұрын
What if you use a heat gun while vacuforming to soften some of the areas a bit more?
@DanielS20016 жыл бұрын
Name recommendation: The Vacuumator.
@MaskaradoBR2 жыл бұрын
what is the power of the grill and the vacuum cleaner to use with PVC plastic?
@narcissisticpanda6 жыл бұрын
Its name is Mr melty
@punishedprops6 жыл бұрын
I like it!
@SuperLoopholes6 жыл бұрын
Does the vacuum table double as an air hockey table if you change the shop vac from suck to blow?
@RDGoodner6 жыл бұрын
I loved this video. Watching things not work is every bit as instructive as watching everything work on the first take. Your frustration was fun to watch, too. You're very sympathetic as stuff goes wrong. I might suggest adding a lid to your warming box. Heat rises, so you're losing heat while it's warming up.
@punishedprops6 жыл бұрын
I'm glad you could benefit from our frustration. =D
@williamstinson83996 жыл бұрын
Sorry I have not read any of the comments but if you were to lower the frame with the plastic in it down closer to the heaters. Would the plastic not heat up faster?
@lonewulf03284 жыл бұрын
Do you think vaccuform would be a good option for blades? Carve/sand a buck of the blade halves, form over both, trim the excess, full with some expanding foam and fix the edges?
@punishedprops4 жыл бұрын
Hmmmmmm you certainly could - it may be a good option for a symmetrical blade that has odd shapes - worth experimenting!
@robbiesmith796 жыл бұрын
So you're squaring off the aluminum corners on a rounded table?
@mitsos_306 Жыл бұрын
Nice build! Loved the panel! Your a biilder and an artist! Congratulations!
@kitemanmusic6 жыл бұрын
How about have a blower fan in the heater box to circulate the heat? I saw a unit which had a heater at the top. The plastic tray slid down with an aluminum tube at each corner.
@TroyWuelfing6 жыл бұрын
Great video, question though. I thought the manifold bit was called a plenum. Is platen another word for this which I should know?
@punishedprops6 жыл бұрын
I've always heard the top of the vacuum platform called a platen, but perhaps there are more names for it?
@TroyWuelfing6 жыл бұрын
Punished Props Academy interesting. Well either way keep making fun videos. I love watching you guys work while I also work on my projects!
@vkturbo76765 жыл бұрын
Will be maming this and seeing if I can make clear acrylic lenses for my old glass headlights
@punishedprops5 жыл бұрын
Interesting! I haven't tried vacuum forming acrylic, I'm not sure how it will work?
@vkturbo76765 жыл бұрын
@@punishedprops Well I have only seen a video on it so can't confirm it but was looking at something like this to do acrylic.
@Xankar16 жыл бұрын
I wonder if its possible to make a moving bracket for the heating elements. Attach a small motor to make it osculate so that the heat gets more spread out.
@punishedprops6 жыл бұрын
Perhaps, but I don't think it's necessary with this particular build.
@wreckingball88819 ай бұрын
Would you happen to know why a petg sheet would turn white when heated up?
@barlowetube6 жыл бұрын
Hello. Just wondering, is the mesh inside the base used to disperse the air for equal suction?
@sansker4236 жыл бұрын
Love this! a few suggestions though. if you put sharpened inserts (5-6) along the edges where the sheet plastic is, it will act as teeth and "bite" the plastic holding it tight. no need to screw and unscrew each piece to hold edges of plastic. also, if you drill very fine holes on edges of the shapes in the form you will get suction from inside the mold, not just the outside making better/crisper forms. you can then reverse airflow when set and the mold will pop/release. To get rid of webs, preheat that area before the oven with a heat gun. the extra heat in that area will help it form.
@CHRISJ0AN6 жыл бұрын
why did you counter sink the holes in the aluminum if you didn't use counter sunk screws?
@FierceCross6 жыл бұрын
why you didn't put vents on top of heater for pushing the hot air on the plastic?
@FrankPSF2 жыл бұрын
Don't know if yu are familiar with ShopBot tools or not. But the hold-down boards are made of MDF like the components of your platen. On the ShopBot the boards to be cut are held down by vacuum applied right through the MDF table. So, unless you have sealed the surfaces of your platen you are losing suction all over the place. Admittedly i skipped through a bit, so i may have missed it if you did seal ... but I highly recommend it. There are a number of things i would do dramatically differently with the plastic holder ... but this is your parade. Happy forming!
@susanduryea50706 жыл бұрын
Love you guys ! We made ours with replacement heating elements for a range oven, only because we needed a higher temp to soften 1/4” plexiglass and lexan. Just as another fan mentioned we also use blower tip to cool down and remove the template from the plastic. Keep up the great videos. Please keep the bloopers coming!
@punishedprops6 жыл бұрын
Woah 1/4" thick is serious! Color me impressed. =D
@badad016610 ай бұрын
5 years later. The Garage 54 team bought one. I watched them unbox it and pull door skins. The trick they have that you don't is a vacuum reservoir launch system. In your setup, the shop vac would void an inline series of pipes or a tank ahead of the table. A dump valve would release a super duper initial suck. Your plastic is farther away and upside down in comparison to the commercial ones. A little closer to the flame might do the trick. But it's five years later.
@tonyshaw73896 жыл бұрын
Would like to see you build a fibreglass mould vacuum form table double mould and how to
@dipootube2 жыл бұрын
I used to vacuum forming an RC body a few years ago, in order to have more details you should drill some holes on the panel you want to form, don't have to be too big, just make it 3 or 4 holes depending how big or wide your panel would be, just to help the air sucked not only from the side of the panel but also from the center. That would helps you get more details.
@1malditoPerro4 жыл бұрын
I'm puzzled as to why you countersunk the holse for the hinges.
@iainohalloran424 жыл бұрын
How long did the vacuum last please.
@MrAcuta732 жыл бұрын
Need to build a much smaller table, but I got some great ideas here. Thank you! Mostly just need one to do visors for helmets and cockpit canopies for a bunch of Star Wars ships. LOL Buying a 3D printer has been an incredibly deep, dark rabbit hole....
@runninghead_media6 жыл бұрын
Great idea with the modular components! I guess if you drilled holes in them to allow suction the plastic itself would get pulled in to the holes? Also: why no lid to your heat box, you know- to reflect heat back to the plastic from the top side?
@punishedprops6 жыл бұрын
We did eventually make a lid from aluminum foil, but we needed to watch the plastic like a hawk. It got incredibly hot, quickly.
@1414141x4 жыл бұрын
Great video and a topic I am interested in .. Thinking you could have helped speed up the heating of the plastic and maybe reach a higher temperature by putting a slab of rockwool insulation on top of the plastic sheet and cut to fit into the frame. May prevent some heat loss ?? Would be interesting to see what you could acheive with thicker plastics.
@punishedprops4 жыл бұрын
Thanks for watching! We appreciate the tip :)
@diametricdata51032 жыл бұрын
What type of materials do your templates need to be made from? I was thinking of making a template to mold from a 3D printed model but I don't know if that could withstand the heat of the hot plastic when put on top of it.
@craggles19695 жыл бұрын
Just a thought if you put a fan in the heater box like in a fan forced oven which would spread the heat faster and even over the area.
@scottshipley92304 жыл бұрын
I worked in a modeling shop in the 90's and we built our own oven and vac table...for better definition on fine details, perforate the object being formed, especially the deep central cavities. Also, have the vacuum arrive before dropping your frame. Nice work!