Hayward AquaRite Turbo Cell - Quick and Easy Troubleshooting of Common Problems.

Today we take a look at some of the common problems we face with the Aquarite salt generator or similar models and how to solve for them without spending tons of money on needless service and repairs when many times it can be accomplished in a few minutes. In this particular case, storms in our area caused multiple brownouts, we will see the results throughout the video of how this manifested.
Consider that before any troubleshooting is done that the cell must be clean and de-calcified The job of the check cell light is not simply to be shut off every three months. These are not maintenance free appliances. Assuming though as in the case with this one, that the maintenance was just conducted no more than a few days ago, a comparison between the displayed salinity and the real-time is way off. Too far off for the internal computation or average over time to correct it. The procedure shown in the video illustrates how to re-calibrate these values.
Even with this issue solved I find that the numbers are still wonky. I see that the live values are erratic. looking through the menu we come to fine that the T value no longer aligns with the cell type I have. Showing T3 when I have a T15. Having lost this setting and calibration at the same time, clearly NVRAM was lost due to a power hit. I Fell like the T setting should have been hardware, that's just my opinion. Having set the T value correctly, the numbers are no longer erratic, and I re-calibrate again.
Looking at issues regarding flow, again, maintenance practices can contribute to these issues, with garbage getting caught in the generator. But we also find the wipers on the RJ11 connector can oxidize, this can be cleaned with multiple re-plugging events. Lastly a test of the switch with a continuity meter makes a positive determination if the switch has failed, or if some other unrelated problem exists. Filter issues, pump issues etc.
#saltpool #hayward #aquarite

[@ItsTessie56]

Thank you. After 8 years with this system, I finally FULLY understand it. I couldn't figure out why, suddenly, my pool kept registering no chlorine even after 14 hours on super chlorinated. Well when I checked my TCELL940-W setting which should be set for T15 it was set at T3. Yaya! Problem fixed . Thank you for the clear directions. Now I know what all those numbers mean.

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Glad to help!

[@Kalibr85]

I replaced my salt cell a few years ago and immediately noticed the salt levels were off by -300 to 500 points when compared to pool store tests. I knew the cell needed calibration but couldn't find how to do that, until now. Thank you for this great informative video!

[@Kaibyrd1]

I am listening to this and troubleshooting with my mouth wide open!!!! I can’t believe this worked. You are awesome! I was THIS close to buying a new cell.

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Knowledge is power.

[@cestari001]

You save my day.... my cell is a T-9.... I had many problems because it was configured back to T-3..... A read the cell manual and there are no information about you just put on this video... Save may day and save me money... Thanks a lot..

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Yes indeed, Not making that a dip switch was a fail in the design....

[@jimson11]

Thanks! This was the clearest video on how to recalibrate after cleaning the salt cell and seeing 2 different numbers

[@retrotechandelectronics]

You're welcome!

[@whip-its_dad4239]

Hello Mr.RT&E , this was exactly my problem and solution . Thank you so much ! By the way in July 2022 Hayward Salt Cells are now 899.00 . Loved the shovelhead videos too .

[@retrotechandelectronics]

You're welcome. That series has since moved over to the other channel/

[@bishopd2290]

Thank you! Just saved me hundreds of dollars. So informative. Going to let it run all night and then check it in the morning to see if everything is still running well.

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Glad i could help.

[@billmilam4457]

THANK YOU, THANK YOU! I'm a newbie too. I've had a salt water pool for over 25 years, but never knew how everything worked. Your tutorial was very informative and I appreciate you SO MUCH! Now I can finally fix the problems on my own and save BIG MONEY! THANKS AGAIN! 😉

[@MarkMoaniala]

Great video - many thanks. My 8 year old T-15 had reached the point that it would not return to service after cleaning because it thought the salt was too low. After recal it works fine. Thanks again

[@zeomar7]

This is so useful!!! And much simpler than trying to understand the manual. Thank you very much for putting this guide 🎉

[@retrotechandelectronics]

You're welcome.

[@scarletgil1]

You are awesome! Thank you for making this video. It saved me from having to call a technician. I’ve had this system for 15 years and I never realized the type of cell could randomly get selected with a power outage. It was incorrectly set on T-9 and wasn’t producing chlorine.

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Not an awesome design imho.

[@dho449]

I had this issue where the salt cell was reading lower than the actual salt level and the system wasn’t generating chlorine because of that. I used the salt cell cleaning solution and the fins looked ok inside the unit. Then I reinstalled it and it worked ok for a couple days. Then the same problem cropped up. I have the solution I think. I used a bubble tea straw brush (just a small wire brush and scrubbed in between the fins inside the cell until all the fins looked clean. Now it’s working properly. I’m not sure exactly where the sensor is but I imagine it’s near where the wire comes into the unit so I made sure to get the brush in and around that tight space. Now it’s working properly. Hopefully for a good while. Worthwhile to try out and save 1000 dollars for a new cell.

[@ErikSamaro]

what did you use chemical wise? Was it the muratic acid approach or the vinegar?

[@dho449]

I used a premixed salt cell cleaner from the pool store. I think it’s probably muriatic acid but not sure.

[@robertmushow6323]

Thanks Mike. Bingo! I should have remembered that this happened to me a few years ago and I soldered in a new one. Got the replacement yesterday, soldered in place and I'm up and running again. Thanks for responding

[@TheDivergentDrummer]

Thanks for the video good sir. I recently was dropped off one of these to "troubleshoot" and me, knowing NOTHING of saltwater chlorination, said sure. Apparently they wanted like 90CAD just to look at it and was told it likely needs a new board. Typical trying to sell parts where they don't need to be. Not as far as I can see, but I am still waiting on the official report from the customer as to what the actual symptoms are. I didn't even know it was for a pool until it got here lol. This walk-through will be super helpful. If it needs board level repair, I am going to attempt to effectuate that myself.

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Test the thermistor, its known to fail first...

[@riponais]

This video is excellent. My salt reading was at 1900 and yet when tested in store was at 3000. A reset as explained and bingo, it reads 3000 as well. All blinking lights came off. Thanks!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

You're welcome.

[@cathymartin19]

That is awesome. I just got this unit installed and had no idea on how to operate it. Thank you!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Glad I could help!

[@ronrichardson7766]

Finally - Finally I am see the lights.. correctly. Fantastic video - Had my pool builder tell me to reset the light really does not need to be inspected. - I did inspect, too almost 3 hours to eat all the calium build up... - I had Leselie tell me I needed 10 bags of salt, which I stupidly bought, in AZ we get our water from the Salt river... yeah you know salt I the water should be enough We had power hits... the panel defaults to a T3 - then shoudl be a dip switch... mine should be t-9 been empty my pool and pooring salt for the last month trying to figure this out... Now it all makes sense. t-9 I am the salt/cal are showing 4.60, so I cam guessin I eed to add some more water.. I am goign to what to it what 24 hours to make sure.. because I have a TDS that shows around 3000

[@georgeerwin1374]

Great video, really appreciated the detail on how to recalibrate the salt reading

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Glad it was helpful!

[@CryptoWorld2]

Awesome video! im thinking of adding a salt water system to my pool and its good to see videos like this that take away some of the questions of how the system actually works.

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Smartest pool thing i ever did...

[@FauxReal]

Wonderful video! This and your cleaning video should be linked in the AquaRite documentation.

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Which documentation?

[@danieljreading]

Thank you! I’ve had this salt generator for ten years and never works right. Now I understand. In my case it had slipped into the t3 configuration and changing to t15 and recalibrate and I’m in full green now thanks!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

You are welcome!

[@johny112wrest]

Awesome video! Helped me with my system it was on t-3 and saying high salt. Wouldn't calibrate. Once I changed it to t-15 it showed the right salt reading and started generating. Wasn't generating before and pool was turning green. Should be fixed now! Thank you.

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Glad it helped!

[@dang9859]

Great Video! Tried everything and was getting no where. I was extremely close to purchasing a new cell and old one just needed calibration.... Thanks!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Glad I could help

[@barryg41]

Good stuff! One other thing on the flow switch, the magnet on the spring lever can go weak. I bought an aftermarket switch when I could not get an OEM. Less than six months it failed. When I pulled the magnet in to close the switch it did not work. So I got my own magnet and yes it worked then. An OEM is in the hole now. 👍

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Mechanical sensors can fail or become unreliable, no doubt. But when it manifests as NO FLOW many assume its a flow issue, not a switch issue, or a connector issue.

[@ErikSamaro]

You would have thought this is the greatest thing since sliced bread. First year I have opened my pool by myself and could not for the life of me figure out ... why my pool is NOT generating chlorine. When I powered it back on, I did NOT set the T cell number to the right model. Once I did that.. boom! Started making natural chlorine and stopped the hundreds of dollars and GREEN affect!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Glad to hear it!

[@MsMyFav-re8pg]

Thank you sooooo much! Fixed my issue and my stress level.

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Glad it helped!

[@SpYucaipaSoCal]

I put an old board in that I had replaced the thermistor in. After a new aftermarket board lasted 2 days. I was confused about the salt level numbers saying 2.7 and red lights were on after 30 seconds or so. Turns out I needed to check all my settings. It was in metric was set for t-3 cell mine is t-15 and had to calibrate the salt level. I have a hand held electronic salt meter and it’s normally very close to the Hayward reading. I had to toggle it from off to auto a few times to get it to start counting down like you’ve seen in calibration videos then flip it up to super chlorinate and back to auto to hold the setting. But now lights are green and everything it good in the pool.

[@JoeAHavok]

Good stuff thx for addressing the calibration issue

[@retrotechandelectronics]

No problem 👍

[@robertmushow6323]

So here is my current situation. The check salt and inspect cell lights were on constantly. The panel said it was NOT generating (no light). My salt level, according to pinch a penny water analysis, was 3100. My panel said it was 2400. I ran the recalibration of the panel per your instructions and the "generating" light came on, the salt reading on the panel came up to 2700 during the recalibration. A week later the water analysis at pinch a penny said my chlorine level was at 5. However, the generatiing light was out. So I'm thinking that I'm still producing chlorine even though the light went out. I also had pinch a penny test my cell and it tested ok. Today, the generating light is out. Had my water tested and I have zero chlorine, salt was 3200. Salt on my panel was reading 2200. Had them test the cell again and it tests ok. I cleaned the cell and turned everything back on again. Ran the calibration on the panel again. The check salt light is flashing. I reset the inspect cell light. Says it's generating. The cell is about six years old and I know this is around the average life cycle of a cell. Since the cell "passed" it's test, how do I know if the problem is in the panel or not? Is there a way to test the panel? I don't want to invest in a new cell then find out I have to invest in a new panel. I reached out to Hayward but they would not answer my questions. They just wanted to refer me to a local dealer to come out and troubleshoot. I appreciate you taking the time to read my email and would like to get your input. By the way, I replaced the thermistor in the panel about a month ago.

[@coolhandluke308]

Wow!! You are the man. So informative! What if.... When the pump turns off.... The salt generator does not go to no flow and then trips the unti into a fault/check cell issue. I've cleaned everything and does great generating.... But when the pump clicks off it's like the gen doesn't. And it faults.

[@retrotechandelectronics]

When you unplug the flow switch from the bottom, does it go to no flow?

[@spaskins1]

@@retrotechandelectronics Hi. I am not the original poster, but I have the same issue. I unplug the flow switch from the bottom and the no flow light DOES come on as expected. I plug it back in and it flashed for a few seconds and then starts generating. But, when the pump goes off, the unit keeps generating (green light on, and I hear a low hum). Why is it no longer going to "no flow" when the flow stops? BTW--your video was GREAT and very helpful. I never knew I had to recalibrate the unit and it was wayyyyy off.

[@naturaldesigns3482]

Thanks! you just saved me 800 bucks....definite subscribe!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Glad to hear it!

[@olanserv]

Thank you very much for your detailed information!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

My pleasure!

[@stroye5438]

I did the recalibration and fixed my issue! Thanks

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Glad it helped

[@kstevenson7912]

Thank you so much! I have a new pool and Im still learning the system. You saved me, Thanks again!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

You are welcome!

[@StevieGYaSee]

I just replaced my cell and am now trying to calibrate for HI salt as well. Before I replaced it the salt was reading very low. I Pushed the button five times to see the output The numbers were very erratic like yours And then it just jumped back to high. Also I don't see an option on my board to choose my cell type. any thoughts? Ita a Hayward Blue Essence which is the exact same setup as this.

[@user-lj5kg7nt5o]

Thank you so much! Finally some answers!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Glad to help

[@corinnewalsh7628]

So does this mean that if it won’t recalibrate I need a new cell? If so I’m so disappointed with Hayward. I’ve only used this system for 2 summer and if I have to replace the cell every 2 years then I will be sure to let everyone know not to buy Hayward products

[@pamwade1691]

I had to replace mine and I’ve only had it a year.!! So disappointed!! They don’t give any instructions on the new cell either!! I had to figure it out myself. Thank God for KZbin

[@stephaniemiller7284]

Same here! Junk

[@thespedshed9655]

Thank you so much. This helped me so much with my system. Thanks bro.

[@retrotechandelectronics]

You're welcome!

[@ChristIsRisen777]

Well taught, sir! 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽

[@genesis1116]

Very good. Thanks

[@retrotechandelectronics]

You’re welcome.

[@reginaharrell2556]

Hello thanks for the video. You explained everything easily. My salt generator isn’t working properly the only light displayed is the check cell light. It goes on and off. I can’t get any other reading the window is blank. Please help!!

[@goodcitizen4587]

Very useful. Thanks!

[@dougjohn45]

Great video~~!~~ Thanks for sharing.

[@retrotechandelectronics]

You’re welcome.

[@angelsantiago5895]

awesome you just save me hundreds of $$$ it was in the wrong cell

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Glad to hear it

[@donaldkiper933]

Excellent video sir. Thank you!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Glad it was helpful!

[@josephkoch6806]

This video saved me! Thank you!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

You're welcome.

[@peterlabrada6635]

Thank You For Saving me $$$$!!!!!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

You're welcome

[@scottcardinal6147]

Your knob should be at 100% to see the - number correctly 😊

[@retrotechandelectronics]

It must only be active to see the current numbers. It can be active at a lower duty cycle, just not 100% of the time.

[@superiorpotomac1265]

Thank you very much for your help on the calibration!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

No problem 👍

[@michaelguevara8867]

Genius! Best video!!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Glad you liked it

[@JRADMAKES]

Mine has stopped displaying the t-cell type. I replaced the thermistor last year and after that it won’t give me the option of changing my t-cell. I have a t-9. Do I have to replace the motherboard or display circuit board? Please help!!!??? Edit: I still have my original t-9 cell, after replacing with a genuine Hayward, maybe I should hook that back up and try recalibrating? I need help

[@JJ-fg4wp]

i am having issues with my hayward aquarite system. The only light I see green is power. I tried to recalibrate it by turning it off then on, like in your video and no change. The numbers on the screen do not move, unless I hit the diagnostic button. Had my sat cell tested and no issues. My water can't hold free chlorine. About 31,000 gallons and I have been adding a case of shock every week and within 3 days, 0 FC. I tried to locate the T on my screen and it is no where to be found. I am using the T15. How do I know if my mother board is bad or is it is the entire Hayward system?

[@felipefn88]

Saved the day! Thank you!!!!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Glad to hear it!

[@terrybasham3215]

Thank you SO SO VERY MUCH SIR!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

You're welcome.

[@angelsantiago5895]

thank you thank you

[@retrotechandelectronics]

You are very welcome

[@rickbat6201]

I not understanding the calibration setting. My display updates to the current reading and I had assumed that the numbers are always the current stable salinity reading. Can you or anyone that reads this comment advise? Thanks

[@linamini9774]

You are awesome! Many thanks!!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

You’re welcome!

[@mistybee2424]

I’m trying to make sure the proper t-cell is selected on my aqua rite but it does not come up as an option to select. After the “r-…” option it goes straight back to the salinity reading. Does this indicate what kind of problem I’m having? Also, when I turn the unit “off” and then back to “auto” there is no clicking sound. The salinity just reads 1600 and it will not reset itself no matter how many times I try resetting it. Tested the water yesterday and the pool store said the salinity is reading 3300

[@susanethridge3064]

I recalibrated according to your instructions and my salt reading is 3500, but is still says HI salt and won't generate. Any ideas what to do next?

[@nancyhumphries6951]

I have an aquatrol cell and cannot see what T level it is on. I replaced a t-5 with a non Hayward compatible t-5 and it is saying my salt is at 5000 when the pool store reads 3200. How can I recalibrate to the 3200 reading?

[@robertmushow6323]

Hi Mike. How do I know if the problem is with my cell or panel? My cell is about 5 years old and I know that is about the life expectancy of a cell. The problem is it stops generating. I can do the procedure in your video here and it will start generating but only for a short time. The pool store chemistry analysis says my salt level is at 3000 but my panel reports about 2300. I know it typically varies by a couple of hundred but not this much. I called Hayward and they were useless. I asked a tech guy how to determine if the problem was the cell or the panel. He told me to call an "expert" to diagnose it. They just don't want you working on this stuff yourself.

[@donnabrogle782]

Good info. My amps are reading 0. I can't figure out why. I also had the salt up to 3000 when the pool started to cloud up, the salt suddenly dropped to 1600. After cleaning the cell it dropped to 1500. I don't know if I need a new system Mine is 11 years old.

[@joelhauk7340]

Do you have a remedy for Chlorinator Off No Cell Power / Check System No Cell Power 2? Thank you in advanced

[@gamkagan]

Hi, I cleaned the T cell, but I still got lights on for check salt, and inspect cell. And the "generating" light does not go on. What's the next logical step?

[@davided.2204]

My Aqua Rite is running version 1.45 and I don't have that last diagnostic option to see the T cell number. Just bought a new t3 cell and still below 2000ppm even though I know the actual is close to 3000pm. Any thoughts?

[@jaycott4663]

You’re the man!!!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Thanks

[@poppanolan]

Bad ass video. Thank you!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Youre welcome.

[@JohnSchwartz-ry3ev]

Hi and thanks for the video. i am having somewhat of a different problem i need to troubleshoot. when testing the salt level through a test strip or taylor liquid type test, I get a reading of 3600 - 4400 depending on which test. when calibrating my unit it reads about 2400. I have cleaned it but can try again. my settings are t-15 so that is not the issue. any other thoughts?

[@esq2323]

Great video !

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Thanks.

[@bujarmarku8482]

Good info 😊

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Glad it was helpful.

[@patrickorourke8468]

Excellent video! Thanks very much. I am trying to diagnose an issue on my system. It was installed professionally and use to work. My diagnosis display works but power light remains off when I switch to auto. Salt level is good tested independently. Power light is green when I reset in off position but I switch to auto generating light goes on looks good for a few seconds then clicks and both lights turn off. Salt cell t940 has been acid washed looks good and is only 2 years old, I’m going to try the multimeter test you did. Can not get a read on my generator it just shows zero values for salt. 20 amp fuse was fine but changed it anyway Let me know if any other ideas. Thanks

[@billvarela3558]

My salt cell looks clean, no build-up but is not calibrating correctly. When I go to recalibrate, the negative number doesn't go high enough for me to match my actual ppm. What should I do?

[@ivanchains4840]

What if I have a TCELL940? Where do I put it with the calibration?

[@hillenbr]

I dont know what is happening. With old cell, I was getting only low salt. I tries calibrating, cleaning and all but never generating. With new, I was high salt, drained water and added fresh water. Then went to low, slowly added salt to a point that I can only pass fromm low to high salt. Its discouraging.

[@KoriDegner-hj6vx]

The first thing it’s doing in ur video when the - number goes down and u put it up into super chlorinate and then back to auto to calibrate it……. I did that, and it seemed to work for like a day, and then the next day it went back to -0 again and I keep having to calibrate it back over and over….. do I need to clean the cell? Hasn’t been cleaned in years

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Years????? Yes ! Inspect , clean!

[@michellesanders5854]

Good info thank you

[@retrotechandelectronics]

You’re welcome.

[@csgamble]

Hey great video, My Hayward is indicating the Inspect cell and Check salt. I had my water tested and it is at 3100, running a t3 which is in the normal range, as welll I cleaned the cell with acid. not sure what to do next, ideas?

[@retrotechandelectronics]

If you serviced the cell you need to reset the timer that stops the inspect cell from flashing.

[@parvaz_heech]

I have an older Aqua Rite connected to an Aqua Link system. However, the Aqua Link RS6 display does not show any info on the Aqua Rite to adjust it while the Aqua Link light is on on the Aqua Rite. The only lights on on the Aqua Rite are the power and the Aqua Link LED lights. When I unplug the flow sensor wires the no flow light stays off, also the display shows 32V but 0 amps when the pump and the salt generator (Cell 15) are running. I checked the use on the Aqua Rite and the power coming into it, they seem fine but no salt generation, no amp, and no faulty flow even when I unplug the flow wire. Any suggestions you may have would be greatly appreciated.

[@joeyfesta2042]

Yes I would like to reply, Still can’t figure out why everything is running perfectly according to the system running at 3000 it’s telling me we have plenty of salt but it’s only generating about 20% whether it’s on super chlorinate or standard. ??? Please help?

[@FranceMarengere]

My generating light is off and I can’t recalibrate the salt reading. It shows at 1500 while it is at -3100. Does it mean that my aqua rite needs to be replaced?

[@FranceMarengere]

I just replaced the salt cell and it did not fix the problem.

[@VIDEOGRAM_PRODUCER]

My minus value goes down to 1600. So, I calibrated. Ultimately added salt in the pool. Still not enough ppm after 12 (!) bags of salt. I sampled at the shop and their result said 6000 ppm !!! Help!

[@ascott6804]

What did you get figured out??

[@ascott6804]

...sooo what did y'all get figured out?

[@VIDEOGRAM_PRODUCER]

I finally bought a new cell. The original cell was a the end of it's life.

[@ascott6804]

@@VIDEOGRAM_PRODUCER thanks for the reply, I think we're gonna do the same! Lol

[@davewhite537]

Can you tell me why my generating light would constantly stay on Even with no flow going through the salt cell

[@retrotechandelectronics]

the generating light should not be on with the no flow light. that could lead to serious issues.

[@todddallas8084]

I have a mineral springs bioguard with a t-15 cell. The check minerals and check cell lights both stay on constantly. If i try to recalibrate it and do the 5 button push thing my salt level never moves at all, jt just stays 0. Any ideas?

[@dtrahan123]

I have the same set up but have a T5 and when I go through settings I have everyone you showed except the t one . So I can't see what it's set on . What am I doing wrong ?

[@michaelashley9773]

I have an intermittent power and generating lights going off.

[@retrotechandelectronics]

I would first be troubleshooting the power source.

[@RickHerman62]

Thank you, but the No Flow has sold red light and I can't get it to go away! I have not one, but two sensors, one before the salt cell and one after. The manual has the sensor 12" or more past the cell. Mine is only 7" because there wasn't room to put it 12" with a new filter. The pool technician installed the sensor before the cell. One sensor is new. I've tried both sensors in both positions (before and after the cell) and cleaned the contacts on both but neither get the No Flow to turn green. I did got a flow a month a go and the system was working. The Hayward authorized dealer suggested backwashing the filter but that didn't help. Any ideas? I called for a service appointment but previous techs knew far less about the system than I do, and the closest authorized dealer is too far to service our home!

[@RickHerman62]

sorry, "solid" red light, not sold...

[@crazyboy4793]

Mine is showing a decimal. For instance 3.30 instead of 3300. Do you know how to fix that?

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Select through to the temperature in centigrade. On that. Click up to super chlorinate and back down. This will convert back to imperial.

[@ChrisWrightDVM]

First, love your vid. By far the most informative. However, I have a strange problem. I have tried your recalibration 3 times, and still have this issue. So first, I just bought the house, it's a T15 cell, so I started with SOLID check salt AND inspect cell lights. I cleaned the cell with half water half muriatic acid and replaced. Same problem. It shows AMPS of zero, but my understanding is that is because the cell doesn't run when the salt reading is under 2300. My salt reading after all 3 calibrations is around 1600... I had 1500, 1600, 1800. Now, when is FIRST starts going, immediately after the calibration, it will in fact show AMPS (5 or 6 I think)... but after a few seconds running, the check salt and inspect cell lights come on, salt reads about 1600, the cell reads 0 AMPS. Now, I tested the salt myself, and got 3600, the pool place by my house, I brought the water sample to them, they say 3900 salt. I had to add a bunch of chlorine though, because I had hardly any. So in summary, the T15 cell is very clean, the machine can show AMPS, but its short lived. I'm guessing because it registers/senses salt under 2300, it won't operate and hence, shows 0 AMPS. I'm guessing the control panel is ok, otherwise it would show 0 AMPS all the time? I need to get the panel to match the ACTUAL salt reading. Is there a way I can set it myself? I'd like to think that the unit is inaccurately measuring the salt concentration consistently too low, and that is the problem. I think the control panel is ok because shouldn't it show 0 AMPS constantly if it needed replacing? Now maybe my salt cell will in fact need replacement, but I would only know that if A) I cleaned it, and B) it's reading salt over 2300 and STILL can't generate chlorine right? So, any way to manually set my salt level?

[@zsdjr1]

I would look at the underside of the motherboard too see if there are some overheated spots. There is a repair/replacement video of the current in-rush diode that some people have issues with which would show current for a second when you first turn it on.

[@Later2u]

I have an older Aqua Rite that doesn't have the T cell numbers, it's an older unit ~18 years. How can I be sure it's set to the correct setting? Is it the same as the newer ones, just different? We did have a power outage a few weeks ago and now I'm having issues generating. I have a T15 cell. Thanks for the video. This thing is cryptic, just like my Jandy pool programmer. I have maintained the salt cell and I've just cleaned it.

[@retrotechandelectronics]

You should try to find the old manual online. If it supports multiple sizes there must be some way to set it.

[@scrapper666]

Non-volatile RAM maintains data with power loss. You mean to say volatile RAM.

[@retrotechandelectronics]

I shut power all the time to work on this unit and it retains the settings, because its stored in NON-volatile ram. Corrupted by a power surge. I know what I mean to say.

[@AdrianSanchez-wo7kf]

When I do this, no flow turns off, but it says check salt and inspect cell but the generating also doesn’t turn on…. What should I do ?

[@retrotechandelectronics]

check the actual salt level, its out of bounds

[@mattfogg7785]

I have 85 pools I maintain a week and maybe 1/3 are salt pools. And just about every owner doesn't care about cleaning the salt cell. I just don't get the lack of concern!!!

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Out of sight out of mind i guess...

[@dylansinor4155]

I am receiving a green power display, but no other display is lit. Any common/easy fixes?

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Test the flow sensor

[@daleborowsky9900]

I have a Hayward Tcell940 what should my setting be on my system 15,9,5,3 the pool is 14000gl

[@retrotechandelectronics]

It’s written on the salt cell…

[@daleborowsky9900]

@@retrotechandelectronics Only says Tcell940

[@daleborowsky9900]

@@retrotechandelectronics And yes it should but it only has Tcell940 on it

[@robertmushow6323]

Can you tell me what a flashing check salt light means

[@retrotechandelectronics]

salt is too high or too low.,

[@joncruz]

Thank great video but I still have solid INSPECT CELL and CHECK SALT. ……9,000 gallons Pool and I added 240 pounds of Salt. ANY HELP? By the way I cleaned the chlorinator with acid already.

[@AdrianSanchez-wo7kf]

I have the same issue, where you able to fix yours?

[@joncruz]

@@AdrianSanchez-wo7kf Yes it was the data cable that goes from the flow sensor to the control box. Looks like a phone cable but I also changed the control flow control itself

[@user-dd6wv4vp4x]

How do you get rid of a HOT message on the LCD screeen?

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Does your device sit in direct sun light.

[@user-dd6wv4vp4x]

@@retrotechandelectronics no sir, it's under a small roof.found another clip of wiring up a potentiometer and bypassing the temp in the salt water gen all together.going to try that today.

[@aynsleesmith9957]

@@user-dd6wv4vp4xdid it work? Mine is doing the same

[@viajes80]

Damn my is showing -300 no matter what I do but the salt level is high on the strip 😅

[@ianmcadam9985]

My T15 isn’t generating as of a week ago. It reads 2200. When I restart it the calibration one goes down to 800. But had my water tested two days ago and it was 3100. I shouldn’t recalibrate it using the 800 correct? Not sure what to try. Thanks.

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Is the T15 set for T15?

[@stevenelwell3106]

My Salt Cell keeps flashing what is the issue and will it damage the salt cell if pool is still running?

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Did you reset after inspection, is the salt too low, does it still show generating? there are many reasons why it flashes.