Hemi Camshaft Installation Continues, SRT Headers Install! Budget Challenger Build Ep2

Episode 2 of the Challenger build! Our Hemi camshaft installation continues and we install a set of SRT headers as well! In this video we install the new camshaft and reassemble most of the engine. Along the way I try to impart some important reassembly tips. Hope you guys enjoy the video!
0:00-2:25 Original camshaft inspection
2:26-6:49 Valve spring upgrade
6:50-8:12 SRT header install
8:13-13:06 Camshaft install
13:07-16:03 Lifter install and advice
16:04-21:05 Cylinder heads install
21:06-24:33 Pushrods and Rockers install
24:34-28:00 Valve cover gasket and install
28:01-28:23 Outro
Mopar parts used:
6.4 non MDS Camshaft: 5037379BC
Lifters (need set of 4): 5038784AD
Timing cover gasket: 53021521AD
Valve cover gasket (need 2): 5114179AB
Cylinder head gasket: 53022306AB
Cylinder head gasket: 53022307AB
Spark plugs (set of 16): SPLZFR5C11
Oil Filter: 4884899BC
Mopar performance valve springs (set of 16 needed): 68277306AA
SRT headers are commonly available as a set on Ebay as take offs from brand new crate engines. I've been able to find them for about $200 for the set. You will also need to purchase the SRT exhaust gaskets to go along with them.
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[@ReignitedAuto]

Which model Hemi do you own?

[@dudleydorite7678]

2013 ram

[@ziggyk.9206]

When I call PowerTrain company for quote they told me that I have gen 3 hemi

[@mikeallen1978]

2015 Challenger RT Plus

[@NatLangston]

2005 Dodge Magnum R/T

[@scottdoubleyou563]

2018 Charger R/T 5.7

[@saulcruz9024]

This has to be one of the most informative channels out there

[@ReignitedAuto]

Appreciate you watching!

[@markm0000]

In another video he mentioned he worked on Hemi engines as a mechanic for over a decade. He's got a whole lot to share and boxes of fresh tape haha.

[@jonathanbaes414]

mine has 160000miles and still going

[@8yroldproduction]

My son and I followed your videos. Outstanding tips and instructions allowed us to easily replace a damaged cam and lift on a 5.7 hemi. Best instructional videos on KZbin!

[@ReignitedAuto]

I love hearing that! 💪

[@diyshenanigans3040]

I was warned against getting a 5.7 hemi, I was told the cam shaft always fails at around 80,000 miles. This channel gave me hope!

[@ReignitedAuto]

Thanks for watching!

[@BR-ik4qh]

I'm at 200k. Stock. Stopped mobile oil at 100k. Went to Valvoline high mileage. No issues so far. Cai, shorties on back. Due to ex manifold bolt issues. Soon will be cam, intake, etc.

[@tysonbanks2064]

At 135,000 magnum love it no issues

[@Neverasheep]

Mine just went bad at exactly 80k miles smh

[@themechanicred]

190k miles on a 07 with mds no issues

[@pezzyp3472]

Thanks for your hemi videos. Didn't have 3500 to get my car fixed so I watched u and did myself. Got my whole engine broke down and lifters and cam out. I'm not a mechanic but if you show me I can achieve 💯

[@ReignitedAuto]

Love to hear this! 💪

[@zimmyman564]

Being an old school MOPAR guy from the 80`s this video is awesome thank you for making it

[@ReignitedAuto]

Appreciate you watching!

[@MM_in_Havasu]

Excellent tutorial on these engines! Look forward to upcoming episodes.

[@ReignitedAuto]

Thanks Mark!

[@Dave10567]

Thank you for making these 3 videos. I learned so much from them

[@BobSmith-ip1mb]

Great job again! Can’t wait to see results!!

[@ReignitedAuto]

Thanks Bob!

[@quintenbarlow2559]

Definitely got more info from you on this then any other channel getting ready to do a mds repair/delete and learned so much here gonna make it a lot smoother I believe!

[@aavile01]

Nice work, attention to detail and highlighting common pitfalls, great content thanks again, looking forward to seeing that thing fire up!

[@ReignitedAuto]

I appreciate you watching!

[@HemiMike]

It took a while before I could get time to myself to watch this episode...did not want to miss it and I'm glad I didn't. So much detailed info and best practice in here its AMazing. Thank you for taking the time and effort to thoroughly put this together.

[@ReignitedAuto]

Appreciate you Mike!

[@supersixone9848]

I freaking love you this is going to be my commitment every time thank you Dr SRT.

[@monsterkxf]

Good tip about installing the valve cover gasket 🤘🤘

[@ReignitedAuto]

I hate to say it, but it's gotten me a few times 😄

[@kevinmurray5733]

Ok, great idea about the magnet. Thanks

[@caddesigner216]

I agree with Saul ...very impressive with all the information that you provide. Thanks

[@ReignitedAuto]

Thank you for watching I appreciate it!

[@bigkuntry9943]

Your work is such a blessing to this community. Especially guys with a 5.7. Keep pushing no matter what! cause you have purpose!!

[@kegscorner5630]

Liking the series, this is going to help out a lot when I get to pulling the cam and lifters on my 2010 Charger SSV.

[@ReignitedAuto]

Exactly what I want to hear 👍

[@matthewperry7812]

Great series Sky, a lot of good detail and tips here!

[@ReignitedAuto]

Appreciate it my man!

[@egrayy9500]

Dont forget about me when you hit a million

[@ReignitedAuto]

😂

[@oemytech]

I did SRT headers on my 10 Challenger. I had previously installed a Corsa Spirt cat-back system. I also installed 6.1 mid-pipes. But, I had the pipes moded to fit OVER the smaller 5.7 pipes.

[@EarlSinclair97]

Getting ready to do this job on my '15 300S. I know this video's a year old, but the information is invaluable. Thanks for taking the time to do it. Subscribed.

[@cryptoshark4578]

Wow, you showed how simple this upgrade is...just saved me a lot of money. Thanks 😊🙏

[@ReignitedAuto]

Appreciate you watching!

[@kmstokesful]

THAT was the FASTEST I've EVER seen a pass side valve cover go on !!! ( and WITH no choice words !!) as always great vid!! Keep em coming!

[@ReignitedAuto]

Appreciate it man! 💪

[@Jurassic392]

Loving this series!

[@ReignitedAuto]

Thanks for watching!

[@worksmartnothard163]

Keep up the amazing work. To have this information on KZbin is great for new technicians like me . Thank you for working with the engine in the vehicle

[@ReignitedAuto]

Appreciate you watching 👍 Always happy to help a fellow tech 💪

[@jettech1041]

Great tip on the valve cover seal. I rolled the back corner on mines and had to take them off 2 times before I got it on without it leaking...😁 Enjoying the videos, keep up the great work!👌

[@ReignitedAuto]

Such a pain to get that right!

[@jesterreviews5489]

thanks man this is very helpful, i hope to see more mopar videos from you.

[@MrGoldman9]

really thank you so much for all the tips and tricks

[@Donkor640]

Great video, I feel confident that I could do this job myself. Now all I need is an air conditioned garage!

[@dmoney6633]

This is an awesome channel you should be more famous great videos I’m going to use your stuff on my 2014 charger pursuit with the hemi 👍

[@davestewart9146]

Very informative, thank you 👍😁

[@ReignitedAuto]

Thanks for watching Dave!

[@WintonLSmithJr]

Sky, this was an awesome two videos on camshaft and lifter replacement. We did it on a Dodge 2014 6.4 liter. Again thank you.

[@ReignitedAuto]

Great work! 💪

[@luisvaca1075]

im a DIY wanna be mechanic, im currently doing my cousins RT, its pretty staright forward but oh man watching your two videos of removal and install makes it even easier, thansk for all the excellent information 😎

[@Mr1997106]

Great job, appreciate the work

[@ReignitedAuto]

Thanks man!

[@nigelthomas6642]

Great videos I have learned so much thank you

[@maddawgnoll]

Wish I'd have found your channel when this was a new video. So much good information here

[@300tolife8]

Amazing. Friend of mine got all this done to his camaro and spent close to 9k I’m definitely gonna do it myself. Your vids are very informative. Glad to be apart of your channel

[@ReignitedAuto]

Really appreciate you watching!

[@oemytech]

You make it look easy. Keep up the good work.

[@ReignitedAuto]

Appreciate you watching!

[@ianuhrig3012]

Thanks for the videos I plan on replacing my mds cam and lifters in my ram soon.

[@ReignitedAuto]

Appreciate you watching 👍

[@Hitech82]

Very good video. Thanks for the information..

[@ReignitedAuto]

Appreciate you watching!

[@TheShorebird]

Imo, there isn't a better or more informative channel on KZbin than this one for Gen III Hemis.

[@alconk7129]

Great informative video!

[@n.elliott9122]

I have seen this happen at 70K miles. But, I have an 03 1500 with no issues at 210K. Material cost cutting and heat treating. Excellent channel.

[@luismacfarland6592]

Great video.

[@ReignitedAuto]

Thanks for watching Luis!

[@teddybearscustoms]

I love your vids man! Thank you

[@ReignitedAuto]

Appreciate you watching!

[@BULLET2246]

I own a 2004 ram 5.7 with over 200k miles and just did a round trip from Illinois to Mexico I decided to change all gaskets and being there I check the lifters and they’re actually pretty good.

[@pedrocazales7881]

I am forever greatfull for your videos 💯

[@ReignitedAuto]

Thanks Pedro I appreciate it!

[@tjwilliger]

Great video

[@ReignitedAuto]

Thanks!

[@rweasel801]

Great video thanks!

[@ReignitedAuto]

Haha, just realized you already watched knew the other videos were up...

[@cursed7151]

Just got a 6.4 cam and MDS delete kit for my 15 RT. You're welcome to do the work and make a new video :D

[@mikewilson7132]

again this is a great video series it should be shown in tech schools

[@ReignitedAuto]

Appreciate that Mike! 👍

[@TheSmitty-js2rj]

I’m at 76,039 miles on my MINT 2011 grand Cherokee. 2nd owner of the vehicle. Everything is super clean. BUT, I have a tapping noise at idle and drive and know it’s the dreaded cam and lifter. This video series is so so amazing.

[@joeycrack509]

I wish I had the guts to do this to my charger myself...... I need car friends like this guy...

[@user-bj8sy1or4t]

شكرا جزيلا لك على الشرح الممتاز تحياتي لك من فلسطين 🇵🇸 ❤️ Thank you very much for the excellent explanation, my greetings to you from Palestine 🇵🇸 ❤️

[@ammsar4425]

Thank you brother from iraq

[@RAWRMotorsports]

Yep first time I did one of these mds deletes I had 1 pushrod slip off the rocker

[@KennyLauderdale]

Great videos

[@ReignitedAuto]

Thanks for watching Kenny! 👍

[@RobertKohut]

Nice!!

[@stankrieger3137]

working on 2018 5.7 Ram 2500 without factory MDS. Lifter and cam failure at 1250, miles on # 1 cyl but thanks to your video I am almost back running.

[@ReignitedAuto]

Nice! Good job on doing it yourself 💪

[@Basslightning666]

My RT Plus Shaker with Tremec manual tranny has 30 K on it, still running strong. This is a great series you are doing here, very informative for the Mopar brotherhood....

[@ReignitedAuto]

Thanks for watching Chuck!

[@mattjohnson2988]

Is yours a 14 shaker ifso what #are u

[@Basslightning666]

@@mattjohnson2988 2020 Shaker

[@johnmiller6356]

I just bought a 2022 Ram 1500 with 44,500 miles on it. The 5.7 Hemi had a fairly loud cold start lifter tick lasting about 3 seconds until it filled with oil. I changed the oil, put a quality filter on, and added a half quart of Marvel Mystery oil. Cold start tick is now gone. You get lucky some times.

[@Bob-gy6ud]

Love the channel and love the information. I’m intending on doing many of these mods. With a couple of changes. 1. My state allows full length headers and I’ll opt for those with the high flow cats as well 2. Will be adding the 392 intake with the matching cam you just installed.

[@ReignitedAuto]

That's going to sound awesome, I love long tube headers. They are just such a pain to install! 😄

[@ghostrt1608]

@@ReignitedAuto ... I have a set of long tube headers for my Ram that I need to put on... I hope it's not too difficult

[@ReignitedAuto]

@@ghostrt1608 The trucks aren't nearly as difficult, you should be good!

[@derwinpichardo9664]

Well sir you are officially converting me to a mopar mechanic

[@bluesteve1]

This series is awesome and super informative. You break it down so perfectly I even feel like I could do a came install lol. Really wish something like this was around for the 392/6.4 which is what I have. Should it be much different?

[@ReignitedAuto]

Almost identical, you could easily do the same for the 6.4 👍

[@44hawk28]

Just as a heads up, I have wrenched on car since 1964. I currently, because I am retired, I do a side job of security and one of my security positions I am at an auto parts store. I recently started taking some of the lifters that they sell, these are as melling lifters. When I checked them, by taking them out and rolling them along my wrist or even along a smooth portion of the counter, I find several that the bearings do not roll consistently. They are skidding along the countertop. That is concerning to say the least. Make sure that you check the bearings on new lifters when you install them. It is worth every turn of the wrench that you save later.

[@stephenwilliams1364]

I think letting your engine warmup before operation is a key factor as well....

[@my-rf9cr]

I plan on getting a manual 5.7 for my first car. I need all the mods to smack some ponys... Keep up the videos my boy

[@ReignitedAuto]

Thank you for watching!

[@RJBond121]

I'm just commenting for the KZbin engagement algorithm again Sky. I don't know if more typed out is better or not, but I'm gonna write out a bunch of words just in case.

[@user-gp6sw]

Just got a 2011 300c awd with 240k and I'm starting to hear some lifter noise. This might give me the confidence to change the cam and lifters myself.

[@TubeDobs]

I think it would be a good thing to inspect, clean the valves and replace seals at this point.

[@ReignitedAuto]

As I said, on your own vehicle, absolutely! 👍

[@brucemurphy2055]

I like 👍🏼 this guy

[@davidjohnson8474]

I did the SRT headers on my 05 magnum rt and it freed up so much power! I had a lifter start to fail after 170000 miles after cam install and raced for years.I put SRT lifters to eliminate MDS and never looked back.You will so happy with a bigger cam.Good luck and have fun

[@ReignitedAuto]

Thanks David!

[@carlosdelrio7593]

With the srt headers on a 05 engine, were there any modifications you had to do to the header to fit?

[@davidjohnson8474]

@@carlosdelrio7593 the only thing I had to do was on the passenger side I put a groove in the flange for the EGR . There is a round hole in the head.and all have to do also use the SRT manifold bolts to bolt it up. I used the factory SRT Cat pipes cause 5.7 uses 2.25in and SRT uses 2.75-3in pipes and frees up HUGE

[@davidjohnson8474]

Also the you connect the hole to the first tube on the collector on the flange. I hope this helps

[@Hugo_Umana]

Great video! Love the detail... you gave me confidence to do the lifters, cam swap, and mds delete.. Wish I would have spend a bit more time on the pushrod.. definitely think I have that issue

[@ReignitedAuto]

You'll get it dialed! 💪

[@jmorris4374]

In shop now didn't know you need lifters after 125k costs 5k DAAAM

[@tommybauman1015]

i like how ur first video u where talking about long Idol i have a ram 2500 with a 6.4 hemi when my truck is warmed up and my psi is around 32 psi and when driving its around 50 psi so it being so low the rollers could not be getting enough oil

[@matthewcecil9404]

Thank you for this video, it help very much during my rebuild. I’ve done the exact job you did and I only used stock one parts from dealer. I’m having problems with the valves saying open and hitting the piston after rebuild. Valve timing is perfect and I’m stumped. Thanks

[@ReignitedAuto]

Well to be honest one of those statements can't be true, either the timing is correct, or the valve are hitting, can't be both. I'd be pulling the cover back off to verify the timing marks. 👍

[@matthewcecil9404]

@@ReignitedAuto Thanks for the reply, I’ve double checked timing (mark at 12 and 1st cylinder at TDC) and it’s still perfect. I’ve also had my heads re-machined with new valves. Is it possible that the new lifters aren’t compressing?

[@ReignitedAuto]

@@matthewcecil9404 if anything it's the opposite, the new lifters won't be pumped up with oil and won't deliver max lift. How are you verifying TDC?

[@ReignitedAuto]

@@matthewcecil9404 also, as a secondary option, remove the valve covers and check the pushrod ends to make sure they are seated properly in the rocker arms and aren't hanging the valve open when they should be fully closed 👍

[@matthewcecil9404]

@@ReignitedAuto Verifying the timing with the cam gear mark at 12 o’clock and 1st cylinder at TDC. Thanks for the tips I’m going to go back threw everything and double check the rocker arms. I’ll give you an update on what I find.

[@Theevilporkchop]

saved both of these videos to use as a tutorial this winter when I fix my lifter tick on my srt8 superbee! Thanks man! Which brand spring compressor is that?

[@jville533]

I picked up a good quality Lang spring compressor from Summit Racing for $76.84 including tax, S/H. I live in Ohio so I had it in 2 days. There was another one like it, that reviews said to stay away from. Review said the Lang was the brand to get.

[@davidmarciehollie459]

Great video!! I love all the tips and details. I can't wait to do the same on my 300C. Thanks, Sky! I learned a lot, especially about the lifters ! I am curious. I watched the video on the hellcat oil pump project. Why did you not put one in this upgrade?

[@ReignitedAuto]

Didn't have the idea to do so at the time, otherwise I would have 👍

[@josephaumick2993]

I love this series. I am planning on doing something similar to my 2006 6.1 hemi. How different would you say it’ll be?

[@button-puncher]

Thanks again for another great video. Did you ever get it dyno'd with the 392 cam?

[@TechSmurf]

My 2015 manual 5.7 started ticking at around 70k... I think it's a bit premature, especially considering the need to pull the heads to fix it. Thanks for the video on the process, though!

[@dogbitecompound1675]

nice channel

[@erichorr142]

my name is Eric Horr i live in south western pa and own a 2005 chrysler 300. i bought it last year with 59000 miles on it. it currently has around 72000 now. i genuinly enjoy your videos . they are super informative. im wanting to put long tube headers and upgraded cam and lifters. I would love to hear your opinion and see if you have a video on long tube headers install. thank you again for your amazing videos.

[@Anthony-qj7qe]

Great explanation and timing for doing this, you found a problem before it got worse. Is oil degradation one of the factors that can cause this type of wear on the lifters and cam...If so, will changing the oil before the specified time help?

[@ReignitedAuto]

Absolutely oil degradation is a huge factor in premature lifter failures. I'm a firm believer in oil changes every 3k miles. I know the newer synthetics give a longer interval than that, but better safe than sorry in my opinion.

[@markr6742]

2012 Dodge Charger 5.7 Hemi. Going to be adding a 220/230 duration performance cam

[@The3chordwonder]

Once again, a great video. I'll comment on things I did wrong and perhaps some other tips that might be good or bad -- I'm definitely not as skilled as you. I put loctite on the cam bolt and on the lifter "cartridge" bolts. I just used blue loctite. When I replaced my springs, the first time around, I had my shop press them on because I screwed up and dragged the head on the dowel pins. But, I wanted to take a few off to check something, so I tried two different methods. One is to place a rag under the valve, put the head down over the rag, then take a large socket that completely fits over the spring retainer, and give it a few good whacks with a hammer. When you do that, the keepers fall (I should say fly) out. But Autozone does have a screw style spring compressor. Some say it doesn't work with the hemi, but I got it to work fine with mine. Much better and less violent way to get the keepers off. One of the mistakes I made when reassembling the valvetrain was that I actually put a pushrod into the cylinder head drain hole. Thankfully, it was the exhaust lifter and wasn't able to fall all the way into the oil pan, but I still did need to use a magnet to pull it back out. It seems like a silly thing to do, but in the ram, it's hard to work from the side and be "level" with the cylinder head like on the challenger. When putting the rockers back on, I found that it was easiest for me to figure out which pushrod was going to be the tallest, then set that in the rocker and ever so slightly tighten the bolt near it. then move on to the next highest and so on. If I didn't do that, inevitably when working trying to get all four lined up, one of them would fall out of the rocker cup. Then when they were all in, I would tighten everything down a little bit, but not all the way, and then run my finger on the rocker arms. It is a relatively small difference, but if the pushrod is in there right, the rod will feel kind of "far" away from the tip of the rocker arm. If it's real close to the tip, then it's not seated right. On the Ram, the drivers side valve cover is particularly difficult to avoid the gasket rolling out like you said. You're fighting between the cowl, the transmission breather, fuel lines, evap lines, and a brake booster. In my case, I had to fight with it to get over the last rocker, but then once I got it over, I was able to pull it up slightly -- enough for me to get my finger under the cover and feel that the gasket was in fact rolled over. Using my finger, I was able to press it back into place before tightening everything down. Oh and one other thing I did, since I screwed up my heads when I took them off, I ordered an extra set of head bolts (I thought I couldn't re-use them). In any case, I took two of the old bolts, cut the heads off real close (e.g. keep them as long as possible) and then I took a grinding wheel and gave them a dullish/blunt/rounded point (e.g. like the end of a pushrod). I screwed the old two bolts one or two revolutions into the top front and back holes (The dowel pin ones) and then when I put the head back on, all I had to do was line up the two bolts, and slide the head down on those bolts. The bolts that you cut down don't stick out very far because you cut them off, so you might need to use a magnet or needle-nose pliers to unscrew them when the head is in -- but that's why I only twisted them in one revolution or so. So although you can re-use the bolts, perhaps buy two new ones and sacrifice two old ones to make the "alignment pins" LOL. Both of those heads you put on went amazingly well, but for me only doing it once, there is no way it would have went on that well LOL.

[@ReignitedAuto]

Thanks Tucker! "One of the mistakes I made when reassembling the valvetrain was that I actually put a pushrod into the cylinder head drain hole" Super common, don't feel bad about it, I've seen lots of techs do this! When putting the rockers back on, I found that it was easiest for me to figure out which pushrod was going to be the tallest, then set that in the rocker and ever so slightly tighten the bolt near it. then move on to the next highest and so on. If I didn't do that, inevitably when working trying to get all four lined up, one of them would fall out of the rocker cup. Then when they were all in, I would tighten everything down a little bit, but not all the way, and then run my finger on the rocker arms" This is exactly the way I do it as well 👍 Also, Blue loctite is never a bad idea.

[@DL101ca]

Tip to keep pushrods in place when tightening down the rocker arms. Get some fuel/oil rubber hose that snugly fits the pushrods on the ID and cut 3/4" pieces then slice them open. Slide them over the pushrods and snug the pushrods up to the rocker arms. They will keep the pushrods from dropping and will keep enough tension to hold them into the rocker arms. Once all tightened down you pull them off (that's where the slicing them open comes into play.)

[@ReignitedAuto]

@@DL101ca I like this tip, I'm going to try it tomorrow on my 6.4 build 👌

[@danieljhalfacre833]

Great videos. Thanks for sharing! Was told by a local [arts manager that the camshaft for a 5.7L is fairly soft material. And that they were roughly $65 for a 5.7 cam shaft! BUT.... you'll need 2 sets of lifter assemblies and those are about $475 EACH SET??!! So, not including labor costs, this isn't a cheap, budget job by any means. But I will say again, THANKS for sharing this info. Besides the parts prices being typical Mopar costs, I would do this at home and save the money from labor, since it IS very doable with hand tools and this knowledge.

[@ReignitedAuto]

Appreciate you watching Daniel. Yea Mopar parts pricing is crazy, the super cheap camshaft is a side effect of Chysler having to replace so many of them under warranty. By law they have to pay the dealer a markup cost for the parts used during warranty repairs, so if they price the part super cheap they pay less markup 😂. All part of the game.

[@VroomvroomNY]

I have 356k on mine and have not had any lifter issues

[@kimdearrington258]

If you watched Uncle Tony's Garage, then you should have seen him demonstrate that the lack of oil splash was not the only issue, but the angle of the lifter which is almost horizontal rather than the standard vertical that most lifters are, which will allow any oil dripping from the lifter to fall down on the rollers, but the way that these bores are almost horizontal keep that from happening. I agree with Tony, that there c are several issues, and that the horizontal angle is causing alot of the issues as well as that bore tube that runs down the center blocking the splash that you would normally get from the crankshaft is also an issue that is causing these rollers to fail prematurely. I would love to know what changes were made in the design or material after 2009 that caused this issue to be so much more prevalent.

[@madfingers72]

Thank you for this great series - it has given me the confidence to try this job at home, to fix a stuck lifter. Unfortunately, I’m finding myself worried about the condition of the heads, and their ability to seal properly at the head gasket. I scraped off any old material with a plastic scraper and gasket remover and cleaned them up as best as I can but I see a lot of people using abrasive wheels, which I didn’t do, and others saying heads need to be machined and resurfaced or an OEM MLS gasket won’t seal. I’ve read aftermarket head gaskets are a little more forgiving in this regard, since the OEM gasket is generally fit to brand new components. You didn’t really touch on this subject in the series, and I’m wondering if I’m overthinking things.

[@ReignitedAuto]

Interesting that you post this now, since I'm literally filming a segment tomorrow speaking about this exact thing! In short, yes you're probably overthinking it a bit. I use a red (medium) coarse roloc disc on a 90 degree sanding wheel to clean the gasket residue from the surface of the heads. Don't sand at an angle, keep the disc flat to the surface, also don't put pressure on the disc, you're just looking to remove the excess gasket material, not take off the top layer of aluminum. The discs are much less aggressive than you think they are, this is what they are designed to do. Literally all you need to do is get rid of the gasket material from the previous head gaskets, you don't need to remove every mark from the head gasket surface. You also do not need to resurface the heads if you haven't had any issues with overheating or suspect the engine has been overheated at some point. As far as aftermarket head gaskets being more forgiving than OEM ones, it's actually the other way around. OEM head gaskets are far more preferable in my opinion. Love the fact that you've tackled this yourself, shows the channel is doing what I meant for it to do. 💪

[@madfingers72]

@@ReignitedAuto Thanks, I feel a whole lot better! Yeah, so far following your videos has made this an absolute SNAP. The only snag has been drilling out one of the studs on the exhaust flange that broke off. I'm hoping I can just put through a nice grade 8 bolt and a nut and that will suffice. So this is an 09 Charger I bought out of state back in June. 75,000 miles, and it made the trip back home just fine. BUT as soon as I got it home (200 mi drive...) I shut off the car and when I next started it, I took off and got a misfire right away. That's when I noticed the ticking. I took it right in to a mechanic (dealer) and they diagnosed a collapsed lifter, as I feared. They were going to charge $7,000! I actually said 'ok', but they sat on the car from June until last week. When I found your videos, I said "I can do this..." and I towed it home. So far so good. So yes, your channel is fantastic. I've always worked on my own car, but I never thought I'd take on something like this.

[@ReignitedAuto]

@@madfingers72 That's awesome, good work 👏

[@gregz4249]

If and when I do not looking forward as my 5.7 is in a Ram 2500 4x4 stock height , wanting to do long tube ARH at same time, thinking about doing this 6.4 cam , do you think the advantages are there and did you say you can leave mds active Thanks for the video

[@ryotaryuu]

I just put the srt headers on my Charger RT and it is a huge improvement.

[@ReignitedAuto]

Definitely Agree! 😎

[@HellmuthsHotRods]

Where are you guys getting yours? The only set I found were like $800! Could buy nice coated long tubes for that!

[@ReignitedAuto]

@@HellmuthsHotRods I found mine on Ebay brand new as a set of take offs from a crate motor.

[@ryotaryuu]

@@HellmuthsHotRods I bought mine from MMX, but you can find them new take offs on ebay for under $500

[@ryotaryuu]

You can call MMX to see if they still have them. I got mine from them with Stainless Works 3in mid pipes for $450. I can't wind them on their sight anymore.

[@snoopyfix2]

Thanks Sky for all you do. Question: Will these past numbers work on a 2013 Ram 5.7L Hemi?

[@westonmalone3205]

Id love to rebuild the 5.7 in my old dodge pickup. Make some power. 238k on her, still going.

[@ClarksCustomRides]

Great video. Have you ever replaced the camshaft bearings on a Gen III Hemi?

[@landengriffith9423]

Hey man! Sorry for the abundance of questions, but I have the rocker arms and pushrods in and everything is seemingly good. But I have a lot of air sound and I think it may just be the oil pump since I don’t have the timing cover back on yet, but I just wanted your professional opinion.

[@tetedemarc]

In a shop I used to work we had a few GM 5.3 with lifter failure under 100 K miles . I think those roller failure ere just random part defect/ regular oil change. I have a friend , when building G3 hemi , he does add some oil flow towards roller themselves . Not sure how , I think he just make a small slot in lifter bore . (don't quote me on that)

[@iceman00256]

Little late to the party but I was considering adding a set of srt or possibly hellcat headers to my 2011 Ram as a fix for the exhaust manifold leak. Any ideas if that would be a simple bolt on like this or would I need to do some fabricating? Thanks and appreciate the awesome Hemi content!

[@edwinguehne9491]

Great information!! My 2012 Ram Hemi had cam/lifter failure at 190K miles. The lifter was not on one of the MDS cylinders but appears to be a camshaft hardening issue because I had the same putting on six of the lives and one that was noisy that had worn into the lobe. Bought complete MDS delete kit with Mopar replacement cam and lifters. Hope this cam is better but 190K is not too bad but have gotten 300K out of GM 5.3’s. Still love my Hemi!!

[@edwinguehne9491]

Sorry, six of the lobes! Doggone auto correct

[@ReignitedAuto]

Appreciate that feedback! 👍

[@jameshowell7285]

I parked my2017 ram with 90,000kms with that issue till I can fix it, riding my bike to work if fun when your out of shape