Here's The One Reason YOU WILL NEED TO CHANGE YOUR SPARK PLUGS!!

[@x-man5056]

Good call on the Iridium plugs. I recommend these, particularly if your plugs are difficult to change. On the question of anti-seize on spark plugs... Anyone who has changed spark plugs knows there's almost always one or two that put up a little more fight. While the plating applied by the Mfg. does provide some protection from corrosion, remember this: 1. The Mfg. is not going to be there when you have a plug stuck in it's bore, 2. Look how much thread depth there is on those plugs, applying a small amount of anti-seize will will not cause ANY harm, it makes install much easier, it is extra insurance against corrosion and also promotes good continuity between the plug and the head throughout the plugs life cycle, 3. if you are doing final torque on the plugs with a torque wrench, you'll get a more accurate torque if you are using good technique and the correct torque wrench (inch/pound only*), 4. when using long life plugs like iridium or duel platinum, a touch of anti-seize is definitely your friend or the next guys, who has to remove them after 50-100K miles, 5. on OHC engines, the plugs typically live down in a hole that collects moisture/condensation and sometimes other debris that promotes corrosion. There are more reasons but you get the idea. IMO, use anti-seize, preferably cooper on electrical components. It does no harm when applied sparsely but may save you from a small headache or even a nightmare, use it on O2 sensors also. That hold down bolt on the coils could use a dash of anti-seize also, look at the corrosion on them, clean that of first with a SS wire brush. Good call to check the plug gaps anyway but you'll get a more accurate gap with a wire gap gauge and will be less likely to chip the ceramic on the core or bend the core tip. * A torque wrench is a gauge on a wrench that records the amount of twisting force applied. The best practice rule (rule of thumb) for ANY gauge is to be in the second 3rd of the gauges range. That's where the accuracy lies. With long handle foot/pound torque wrench, they are notoriously inaccurate it the lower 3rd of their range. If Jimmy had used an inch pound wrench, he would just multiply the ft/pound spec by 12, so 13 ft/pounds would equal 156 inch pounds putting you almost right in the middle of their range usually. In precision assembly, torques below 50-75 inch pounds usually require a dial indicating torque wrench for this same reason, more sensitivity, more accuracy. I am a retired manufacturing quality engineer from the aerospace industry, I have witnessed thousands of precision torques, every single wrench we used was first checked on a calibrated meter before use. Even the very best ft/pound torque wrenches will cause you a likely over torque condition at anything below about 35 ft/pounds. Jimmy could have easily put double the 13 ft/pound torque on those plugs...and they are in there dry, for at least 50k miles. Think about that.

[@brianjarvis3367]

All good points. Don’t forget also that if you lubricate with anti-seize, you need to reduce the torque spec by 30% (ref. Ajax Bolt Fastener Handbook).

[@ChiDraconis]

Just installed distributor cap w/ Iridium plugs; Instantly fixes "failed idle" - my experience shows Aluminum oxidizes at spark voltages when then becomes 'semi-conductor' which on wet humidity mornings has resulted in cross-fire or misfire

[@x-man5056]

@@brianjarvis3367 Don't know how old that reference is but that's bad engineering. Torque specs are called out for optimal thread condition. A standardized 30% reduction would be foolish. If you experimented on engine head to block bolts dry for example, used a dial indicating torque wrench to check the drag force before actual tightening, you'd find wide variation. And in this example with steel bolts going into cast iron would be disastrous. I have never seen a call out to reduce torque if using anti-seize. To be fair though, never saw that mentioned in any Motor manual but most of the torque spec call outs I've witnessed, thousands, "directed" use of anti-seize. That must be very old thinking. never saw it in a Motors manual, Chiltons, Haynes or factory service manual. All anti-seize does, lubrication wise, is reduce drag torque, not final torque. Using anti-seize makes for more consistent accurate torque, not over torque. You are actually measuring bolt stretch and/or clamping force. The minor lubricative quality of anti-seize won't effect that. Cheers.

[@x-man5056]

@@brianjarvis3367 I wouldn't do that. Drag force on threads is very variable. You are going to have an under torque condition and poor consistency of torque if on a series of bolts like head bolts for example. Just use a small amount of anti-seize and torque to spec*. Use the right wrench and torque slowly and smoothly. Pull the wrench rather than push it if at all possible. Don't be in a rush. Clean threads well on used fasteners also. * I generally use motor oil on head bolts, just the way I was taught. But I mostly worked on iron engines, Chevy's, Fords. If you are working on an aluminum block engine, never put any steel fastener into it dry., including spark plugs. But skip the 30% reduction. I would never do that. It represents a lack of understanding of what anti-seize can and cannot do IMO.

[@brianjarvis3367]

@@x-man5056 No problems. I guess that we will just have to agree to disagree. The manufacturer’s torque specs etc are assumed for “light lubrication”. This means pretty much how they come from the manufacturer without adding anti-seize etc. The science shows that if you add anti-seize (lubrication) then you are reducing frictional forces between the clamping faces. If you don’t allow for this reduction in frictional forces you run the risk of over torquing if you torque to the same lightly lubricated state. At the end of the day it gets down to the compressive forces between the two mating surfaces. The most accurate way of measuring these compressive forces is by using strain gauges as they are generally much more accurate than other methods. The quantitative, evidence based science shows ( a la the Ajax Handbook) that the same compressive force is applied at 30% less torque when a lubricant like anti-seize is applied. In other words, the same compressive force holding the parts together is achieved. I guess that by not applying this reduction you have not experienced any failures even though according to the science you have over-torqued the mating surfaces, but not enough to cause failure it would appear! I guess we should just end on a friendly note, that using the 30% rule, I have not observed any failures either. I will let you know as soon as one of my wheels comes off, or the engine head falls off!

[@silverdollar7594]

That was an Amazing find with such low mileage

[@outlawjos3ywales]

10 mm ratchet, common man everyone knows none of us have seen our 10 mm anything in years, even though we buy new ones every 6 months😂😂

[@jameshall4385]

good tip on the coating on the spark plugs. i never knew that. i have owned a 2004 trailblazer for ten years. i changed the plugs at 95,000 and i just changed them again at 190,000 miles. iridium plugs can last a long time. the trailblazer runs great we just took a 900 mile trip to vegas and got 19.9 mpg. they are great suvs

[@pauldeutsch2044]

Excellent. One of the few demos where the torque wrench was properly applied by pulling and not by pushing.

[@x-man5056]

You are correct and it's very important. I would have like to have seen him pull a little slower on the last little bit before the click though. Especially with that, IMO, too large of a wrench for spark plugs. If torquing is worth doing, it's worth doing right. Also breaking torque should be done by pulling the wrench when ever possible particularly on higher torqued fasteners. I suspect you may have had professional training.

[@NoWr2Run]

Man that throttle body & inside the head where the boots live looks VERY VERY CLEAN, NOICE. No build up inside T.B NO oil around the spark plugs. I like that ratchet you have the red one that swivels. I have a TIP for you on having the plug socket staying down the hole. TAPE THE PLUG SOCKET TO THE EXTENSION WITH DUCT TAPE, WORKS GREAT. Thanks for the vid. 1

[@FMcanada]

lol ... everytime i watch one of your videos i get totally inspired to do something positive for my truck ... out for a car wash we go ... Awesome video, keep it up.

[@MrBowNaxe]

Good stuff Jimmy! Always a good starting point to keep your ride running like it's supposed to.

[@bcar1ify]

If you don’t want your socket to get stuck on the plug just tape the socket to the extension this way it will come off when pulling up on your wrench.

[@paulwebber504]

It's better to just get a magnetic spark plugs socket. They come off real easy. I've tried the tape before and it came undone and getting it back on became an issue.

[@bcar1ify]

@@paulwebber504 thanks for the tip. I love the comments section. Always learning.

[@rh8611]

Would have liked to see how you did that far plug, it looked challenging, nice job overall, I have an 05 suburban getting ready to do a 100k service on it

[@1RoadGarage]

Actually wasn’t really difficult, plenty off room for the ratchet to get that bolt out... used the spark plug socket attached to one 3” extension to first fit down into the hole and onto the plug, then followed with a second 3” extension and ratchet.

[@rh8611]

@@1RoadGarage thanks. Doesn’t sound too bad

[@TheoryBNL]

The back one on that motor is good for life 😆

[@ashy1423]

Thanks for the info on the chrome coating. Stay well Ash 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

[@04JALD]

You do really good videos and don't stop. You present it all the way through like a pro. Your editing is really good too. Thank you for what you do. Hope you get your burb back out doors and enjoy it some more soon 😊. Take care buddy

[@lenward474]

Other video deleted? My comment was re pine hollow diagnostics video showing poor running vehicle with iridium. Two plugs OEM two clones fro high value company. The boxes for clones identical to OEM,clue in close inspection of clones showed micro differences. New plugs ran fine. Great show and tell video thanks.

[@jsanbr]

Jimmy! I really enjoy watching your videos. Thank you!

[@KendrasEdge757]

Wow. This dude just lays in bed at night wide awake wondering “what if” about everything! Must be a rough life. They make medications for that too. “What if the first owner didn’t change the air filter? What if he did but used one from Mexico? What if it’s dirty? OMG I’ve gotta do a tune up!!!”

[@FredTheLutinoCocatiel]

Anti seize added to the spark plug threads will alter the torque my Toyota calls for Denso iridium when I took out the spark plugs there were NGK dual electrode iridium I put oem single electrode Denso iridium plugs in it..

[@songsfromthelord888]

Very informative and very well done thanks a lot Jimmy, and remember Jimmy, God loves you, and He wants you to love Him too. Thanks again 🙂

[@jonesbullock7290]

U AIN'T LIEN!!!

[@omgwtfbbqgtfo]

Religion is trash.

[@PanamaSticks]

"What if the plugs weren't installed correctly"? That is a question you could ask of EVERY component on your car. Are you going to open the transmission to see if it was assembled correctly?

[@ferndog1461]

Thank you for the message: When to use little antiseize. If it shines, then no antiseize.

[@MikesGarageRoute66]

After removing the coil packs it's recommended to use compressed air to blow out any dust, dirt, or sand that might be there. Then remove the plugs. Personally I spray PB Blaster after using compressed air and allow an hour or two for it to run down the spark plug threads. This lessons the chance of damaging the threads in a aluminum cylinder head upon removal.

[@rototiller78]

Throttle body being gunked up can cause stuttering as well. Those coil packs are humongous. I just changed out the spark plugs in my 5.4L Triton 3V. No broken spark plugs in the process but 2 ignition coil connectors broke and they cost me more than all 8 spark plugs to buy.

[@anthonytompson4185]

Hey, you need to put some insulating silicone grease on the spark plug

[@RealAmericanHero420]

Thanks for giving me an idea for something to do this weekend.

[@stevenherd9799]

I have seen the porcelain and the hex head come out in the threads stay in put anti-seize on it!!!👍

[@MechanicWelder94]

Man, I really love your videos, big time fan here. Keep up the great work brother

[@darkfalcon75]

I tell my customer put in what the car came with OEM plugs they spend million in that design.. cheap plug like autolight will not work. Spend the dollar on your plugs. Worth ever penny.

[@rocketsmall4547]

i always run ngk and autolite is no good..... now i run autolite plus ngk stickers 20% more power

[@darkfalcon75]

@@rocketsmall4547 what motor? And the plus is there higher end right. A few cent from the oem price point. And is it a cold warm or hot plug?

[@andrezahire7342]

Gr8 video bro; just subscribed can't wait to see you on (blue Driver) Jimmy peace. .

[@hotrodray6802]

Use Berrymans B12 in your gas every 10,000 miles. Keeps injectors and valves clean.

[@jimparker7778]

A scan tool, even a cheap one, will tell you what you need to know about your spark in all OBD II vehicles anyway. Lacking a scan tool, a vacuum gauge and a hand held tach will work for virtually any gasoline engine. If you have really solid consistency from one cylinder to the next, leave the damn plugs alone.

[@hotrodray6802]

The feds mandate that engines pass smog with minimum maintenance for 100,000 miles. Nearly all manufacturers install platinum or iridium metal spark plugs so they will last 100k. Most cheaper plugs barely last 30,000 miles the gaps erode quickly.

[@innovativeintelligence4172]

Mine has 300,000 with the original plugs. id change all the diff fluids since it is getting past the break in period.

[@paulwebber504]

I still coat them. I don't believe that.

[@MrEyad1990]

how the hood is open without its hood prop

[@NoWr2Run]

If you look on the driver's side almost against the firewall he has something holding it up.

[@1RoadGarage]

I actually used a ratchet strap to hold it higher up with my garage rafters..

[@MrEyad1990]

@@1RoadGarage alrighty .

[@ron6376]

If the engine zippidy vroom starts in a flash 2 sec. I would say plugs are good. If you car is starting to be sluggish to start, well, "here's your sign." Allways ck gap. Especially those hard to get to plugs.

[@aidenstefanson2175]

I did the plugs on my brother-in-laws trailblazer, and the last person who did it clearly skipped the back cylinder.

[@seangrande1102]

poor idling can also be due to low charge in battery

[@MechanicWelder94]

Jimmy, what's the difference between the $18.99 and the $19.99 t-shirts??

[@nicholassmerk]

Those spark plugs last 100k miles...beside the previous owner tampering with it, not sure why you are changing them. The manufacturer recommended period has to be >100k miles because of emissions compliance.

[@limited50scla]

Yeah, I need to replace mine... like 2 times a year or 1 time a year.

[@rocketsmall4547]

pcv valve? i seen sparkplugs and wires lasted 20 year..and still didnt need to be changed

[@mike-bj4dk]

i would've still put a light touch of anti seize anyhow wouldn't have hurt anything but don't lose sleep at night over it you seem like me doing things regularly to vehicles as far as maintenance

[@mikebishop4346]

Awesome that was a great video thanks

[@PanamaSticks]

There is no reason to reset your engine computer when you change plugs or to disconnect the battery.

[@codygentry9472]

Would not trust that “coating” on spark plugs.

[@NoWr2Run]

I've never had it come off ? I use NGK ON EVERYTHING ALSO.

[@x-man5056]

@@NoWr2Run The chrome/nickel coating will likely not come off, it is quite hard. The issue is; without anti-seize to seal the threads from corrosion, those deep, fine threads of chrome on steel will "Gall" the treads in the aluminum heads on install and removal. They are just aluminum, fairly soft against much harder chrome on steel. The smart bet is to use the copper anti-seize, the worst that can happen is nothing. It may save you from a nightmare scenario however. It will make the next removal very smooth and easy. Once you break torque, you can usually run them out by hand.

[@thepurdychannel8866]

Hi i have glow plugs as my car is a diesel i dont think they need changing anytime soon

[@MechanicWelder94]

Mercedes?

[@thepurdychannel8866]

@@MechanicWelder94 no vw polo 1.4 tdi

[@jonesbullock7290]

What about GLOW WORMS!!???

[@rocketsmall4547]

@@MechanicWelder94 i thought my glowplugs didnt work. so on cold days i use starting fluid. one day i used too much? well they went ping ping ping for 20 second. then all is good. the engine have chewed up and spit out the metal pieces. nothing bad happened. except i have to always use starting fluid since i didnt replace the plugs. 300sd 1980 half million miles.

[@MechanicWelder94]

@@rocketsmall4547 I'll be damned... isn't it leaking mad compression?? Or is the threaded portion of the glow plug still in the head and sealing everything still? I wonder why it broke in the first place.?

[@rickstir7144]

Stick to the suburban videos! I don’t want to have to unsubscribe... there’s plenty of diy vids on mechanical issues on all sorts of cars/trucks.... but the best part of your vids was the fact that I own and currently in the process of restoring a 1999 suburban.

[@KydenBufect]

If it ain't broke don't fix it. Those were probably lifetime plugs anyway.

[@mobes329]

I have 245000 on Iridium's.

[@jonesbullock7290]

Don't be lazy and change your damn plugs MOBES329

[@brian_jake]

@@jonesbullock7290 it is iridium not copper or platinum!

[@kc0lif]

probably last 300.000 miles

[@johnwagner4559]

You need a cordless ratchet wrench.

[@rocketsmall4547]

is slow

[@autogamer6404]

Ronald Florence god has nothing to do with automotive maintenance

[@mofeedd]

👍

[@geoepi321975]

You don't need antisease, only a drop of thick oil

[@x-man5056]

NO. Oil will "coke" up. If you look at almost any oil dipstick on a car with over 100K, where the dipstick resides next to an exhaust manifold, you can usually see evidence of this coking condition. You don't want that on your spark plug threads. Only use oil on internal engine fasteners like rods and main bearing caps and head bolts where the head of the bolt is inside the the engine. Use aluminum or copper anti-seize where oil doesn't continually see the head of the faster. make sure those threads are clean also.

[@brian_jake]

Don't use anything

[@achmadmarendes]

Nice video Pls use a tripod

[@testabpath6014]

bro you just changed spark plugs not that serious

[@jonesbullock7290]

Screw em out,screw em in jimbo!!!

[@nissanslut7870]

Omg 😂 how did they get away with putting the air box in the worst location for heat soak! Whats the AI temp when it’s hot?

[@rocketsmall4547]

ford focus air filter box is behind driver side tire.. have to remove tire and plastic around wheel well. then theres tiny amount of space to get to it. old corvetts have its battery on driver side fender. theres a plastic door......its just stupid. the positive side is on the inside. and side mount batterys.