HGLRC Zeus F722, Zeus F722 Mini and More - Overview

[@PenPeng]

ATTENTION: Prices have increased A LOT! When I made this video, the FC was cheaper than most competitors. Of course everything is more expensive now, but also compare prices to products from Diatone for example. People I know say that they have recently bought a Zeus F722 Mini and they have not received the M2-M3 Adapter thingies! HGLRC might not include them anymore. I would like to point out that the F722 Mini has no solder pads for the motor outputs. Many people don't seem to care about that, but you should keep in mind that you HAVE TO use the plug. If it gets damaged, repair is considerably harder than if the FC just had solder pads (in addition to the plug). New Versions of this FC have no I2C (SCL SDA) pads! Early versions had these pads. In the video I say "... I don't see many reasons for buying an F4 right now", this is only partially correct. Even though I like F7 more, and you will probably be happy with either an F4 or an F7, the topic of F7 vs F4 (or other) microcontrollers for your next FC is so large, you could make a separate 10-Minute video about it. In fact, Paweł Spychalski did it and I highly recommend you watch it, if you're not sure if you should get an F4 or an F7. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jGSWeqObm5qmbsU

[@speedyturtlefpv3290]

You done a very good job

[@dakzer55]

Hi, Great video. I have this, but need some help on upgrading. Can this F722 Mini be used with HDZero Race V2? Thank you 🙂

[@PenPeng]

Hi, thank you. I don't see any reason why it should not work with the HDZero Race V2 as long as you have enough unused UARTs and the correct voltages.

[@robertilkanic5452]

Good video was just wondering if it is possible to wire this fc to 4 separate ESCs?

[@PenPeng]

Thank you. :) It definitely is possible, but it's really not ideal. There are two main issues why I would not recommend this FC for individual ESCS: 1. Lack of integrated PDB (power delivery board). There are FCs designed especially for individual ESCs. These FCs have big solder pads for the wire from the battery and battery plus and minus pads on each corner that can handle the load. This makes wiring very neat. Without a PDB integrated into the flight controller you need an external PDB like the "Matex PDB-XT60" or the "Matek FCHUB-6S" for example. This has the disadvantage that the PDB is an additional board, but it should still fit into basically every frame. Another option would be to directly run the wires from the battery plug to each ESC, however, this can make your wiring a bit messy. 2. This flight controller outputs the signals for ESCs 1-4 only through the plug for the 4-in-1 ESC. Of course there is nothing stopping you from cutting off the second plug of the supplied cable and directly soldering the signal wires to your ESCs. (So its plugged into the FC but then each signal wire is soldered to one ESC.) But you would have to extend the wires because the cable with the plug is very short, which could be very tricky. Alternatively, you could solder wires to the solder pads for motor outputs 5-8 and then use Betaflight resource remapping to remap those motor outputs to be motors 1-4 but that's an additional configuration step you would have to do after each Betaflight update. Or you could solder the wires from the 4-in-1 ESC plug onto the "Matek FCHUB-6S" and from there go to each ESC but that adds additional soldering. Flight controllers for individual ESCs have one motor signal output on each corner. What I recommend: Get a flight controller that is designed for individual ESCs. If you can't find an FC that is optimized for both, DJI FPV, and individual ESCs, I would recommend getting basically any FC that is designed for individual ESCs that has an 9V/2A (or more A, 8V is also fine) regulator. DJI air unit does not actually need anything special. It just needs a regulator to give it a voltage within the air units specs and one or two UART on the FC. Only small downside with that is that the wire between flight controller and air unit would have to be soldered on the flight controller side but that's just 6 solder joints.

[@PenPeng]

I've just looked around a bit and if you want a flight controller that's optimized for both DJI FPV and individual ESCs, you could look at the "Holybro KakuteF7 HDV AIO" www.holybro.com/product/kakutef7-hdv-aio/ I have not tested or used it, just looked at the specs and at first glance it looks good. I recommend you search for reviews of that.

[@lanszsazani2801]

Hi!Where is the boot button on f722 mini?

[@PenPeng]

It's very close to the USB port, but on the other side of the pcb. You press the button from the side. At 5:14 you can see it in the top left corner of the fc, above the 8 solder pads. By the way, with modern Betaflight you only need the boot button to rescue the FC. For normal updating, you don't need it anymore.

[@kgb1632]

Serious question can u use a big frame for the mini Zeus

[@PenPeng]

Often you can, but it depends on the frame you're using. Many modern 5" frames have both, 30mm and 20mm stack mounting holes. For example the Geprc mark4 frame. Some frames also have two places to mount the stack. They often have a 30mm stack in the centre that you could use for a 4in1 ESC and another 20mmm mounting holes in the back that you could use for the Zeus F722 mini for example. If you want to use a 30mm ESC and put the 20mm FC on top, or if your frame has only 30mm mounting holes, then you need an adapter. But larger flight controllers basically always have more features than smaller ones. You have to decide if giving up those features makes sense for your particular build. If the mini flight controller has everything you want then using it could lead to weight or space savings that might be worth it to you. Thanks for the good question.

[@kgb1632]

@@PenPeng thanks mate u saved me

[@PenPeng]

@@kgb1632 no problem, glad I could help :D