2000 Toyota Echo ECM (Computer) Repair

[@KYNAEVIL]

Thanks a lot for the instructions and the bloody fair point of not taking on this job if you can’t change a tyre. I’ve had my Echo for about 6 years, I’ve only had two issues where it’s broke down on me and they were battery and a stupid mistake on my part. Do I like the car, no… but it’s hard to get rid of what you know, especially when it’s so cheap and been so reliable. I’m an Aussie, Holden girl too… but it pains me to say that I hold my trust to get about with Toyota.

[@HNXMedia]

Glad I could help! You know, it's not so much about liking the car and more about it doing its job. Mine is 24 years old and still running strong. Is it my favorite, maybe not, but it sure is reliable. Stay well and stay safe!

[@jagarg6573]

Tried this swap on an australian echo with an identical numbered unit & the emobiliser light kept kept flashing & the engine would turn over , But wouldnt fire ... Any idea ? - Does the new ECU need programming to suit the key ?

[@jregamey]

I need a new ecu I think. I can get a few but how to I fix the key issues without reprogramming

[@HNXMedia]

My vehicle did not require any reprogramming and it just has the "ild fashioned/non-computer" key so it was not an issue. As long as the ECM communicates with the ignition (on a more modern car) it will likely not have any problems or require reprogramming either.

[@DougHinVA]

I have that same problem on cylinder 3 of a Corolla CE year 2000. The local garage tells me the chain and chain tensioner are fine, but identified that the ECM has the problem. A local garage cannot do the install, but with the correct ECM, I can do it myself. A local mechanic used his own good scope to see a 'problem' on cylinder 3, but the #3 cylinder coil and fuel injector are fine. And the problem started suddenly and no noises are heard... just a rough running like 'out of time' a bit.

[@HNXMedia]

Doug H. in VA Yes, that is exactly the same problem I had with this Echo. Same cylinder even (if I remember correctly). This instantly solved this issue after dealing with that "missing/out of time" thing for over a year. Still got the Echo and she still runs flawlessly (19yr old car). Hope the video helps.

[@Inkling777]

I'm about to buy a 2000 Echo much like yours. I noticed that you mention using a code reader to diagnose problems. You might want do a video on that, including the reader you use.

[@HNXMedia]

The code reader I used to do diagnostics mentioned in this video was a very old/primitive reader that I got on "trade" from a friend of mine. To be honest, I would not purchase another code reader like that. These days, with smart phones, I would purchase this device: www.amazon.com/BlueDriver-Bluetooth-Professional-iPhone-Android/dp/B00652G4TS?tag=none

[@bitemyshinnymetalass1569]

HNX media I am having a similar problem with my 2003 echo. the car check light came on and when I had the guys at pep boys check it out with the code reader it came back as a misfire on one of the cylinders. Can't remember if it was the 3rd cylinder. They recommend that I get a tune up to fix the problem. Should I try that first.

[@HNXMedia]

Depends on cost. If tune up = $100, you could get a used ECM and try it for around $90 (return it if it doesn't work). Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.

[@billyshepard5514]

Did your VIN number change to the used car part your bought? This sometimes happens on newer cars, not sure on a 2000 echo. If the VIN changes you will have a problem when you get it inspected.

[@HNXMedia]

To be honest, I have never heard of such a thing. The VIN is fixed to the automobile and based off the "frame" and the "engine." Swapping the computer or ECM should not effect the VIN in any way at all. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. Peace!

[@djfour]

Does it need to be programmed? I think my issues are caused by a bad ECM and I just bought a new one on eBay. In the ad it mentioned the dealer might charge me to program it.

[@HNXMedia]

I got mine off of eBay too! As long as you get the proper ECM to match the year of your vehicle it should not need to be programmed. If for some reason it does, a dealer or someone with a programmer should not be charging more than about $70. Hope this helps! Thanks for taking the time to comment and watch my video. Namaste!

[@djfour]

I bought the same year. Fingers crossed! My car is having a bizarre suite of symptoms and this seems like the likely cause. Thanks for the video!

[@VadimH.-ms7dx]

​@@djfour hey man, did you resolve the issue on the Echo back then? Was is erratic revving like I have on mine? I'm just wondering if new ECM will fix it.

[@djfour]

@@VadimH.-ms7dx blast from the past! I believe in my case it ended up being the mass airflow sensor. I also had to replace the o2 sensors

[@GP-Gaming2]

When replacing ECU, do you need to program replacement? Thanks!

[@HNXMedia]

No. A long as you get an ECU that matches the year and make of the vehicle, it should be "plug-and-play" - no programing required. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.

[@jarnsaxa666]

This is great! I just re-acquired my 2002 Echo from a family member, and she’s in rough shape with NO vroom vroom. Good old misfire on cylinder 1, plus the error code for ECM leads me to your video. Guess what I’m starting with first? Also...I’m a technical writer and your video is a) great, and b) probably the equivalent of two giant pages of words and diagrams. Simple is better ;)

[@HNXMedia]

Thank you for watching and taking the time to leave kind words. Very much appreciated. Hopefully this fix will work for you. I am still driving this Echo (now in its 20th year) with no problems. Stay safe. Peace.

[@jarnsaxa666]

Penny4Bernie 2020 hey, thank you for that confirmation on what we found - there was lots of water in there (no surprise in Florida) and hubs was not happy about a possible leaky head gasket. What you said makes more sense!

[@jarnsaxa666]

Walter Dolphinson Thank you! We’re in Florida so heavy rain is a fact of life. We were just speculating about something being up with the coils, too. One more thing to check, ha!

[@Spacegeek46]

What were the symptoms of your car that led you to the ECU?

[@HNXMedia]

With a code reader, I was getting a code for "Misfire on Cylinder 3." After extensive testing (spark plugs, coil pack, compression, fuel injector, wiring) and none of that being the issue, I asked a friend who suggested that the only issue could be a computer "glitch." I took a chance on a used ECU and it immediately fixed the problem. Car instantly started running like new.

[@TakingShapeCreations]

@@HNXMedia so I just bought a used ECM same year and part number for 2010 Toyota Vitz. I will install it on my day off in a few days. It came with a key but I tried 3 batteries and red indicator light won't light up. Seems new key fob is dead. Will my current key fob for locking and unlocking doors work with this new ECU?

[@honorable_villain]

@@HNXMedia did you feel a misfire in the car or did the check engine come on before you noticed?

[@HNXMedia]

@@honorable_villain Felt the misfire. The engine light never really came on.

[@GP-Gaming2]

THANK YOU SO MUCH!!

[@dusanskulavik1878]

And what about immobiliser, it is not need to deactivation immo, it is not possible to start this car without it...

[@HNXMedia]

Not sure what you are referring to, friend. This fixed my problem and 3 years later this car is still running perfectly. If you give me more details, I will try to help. Peace.

[@dusanskulavik1878]

@@HNXMedia I have got Toyota Yaris (europe version of Echo) 2002, and sometimes it is not possible to start it (security led blinking) starter is turning but the engine engine do not start. So it seems to be any problem with immobiliser (ecu do not recognize the key by immo ring or etc). So I would like to deactivate immobiliser completely cause I do not need it and would like to always start the car.

[@dusanskulavik1878]

Normally it starts immediately, after key insert security led stops blinking and car starts. But sometimes, especially in hot weather it is not possible to start it , security led do not stop blinking also with key inserted. So its seems to be any problem with immobiliser circuit.

[@HNXMedia]

@@dusanskulavik1878 I would certainly like to help you, my friend, but I have no idea how to fix that problem. I do not want to give you bad advice. If I had to make a guess, I would think it is the ignition control. Best of luck. Peace.

[@djmips]

15 minutes is a bit ambitious. 30 minutes is probably more accurate.

[@HNXMedia]

It's one plug. When I timed myself, it took seven minutes. But now, if you've watched the video, hopefully it takes less.