Hobby Cheating 229 - How to Make Dungeon Bases

In this Hobby Cheating tutorial, I take you through a method of making a simple dungeon base. Great for your board game, D&D figures or even a whole army, hope you enjoy!
Twitter: @warhammerweekly
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[@abelsliedrecht8798]

Great tutorial! If you do this for a large number of models, If you have the green stuff part finished, you can cover it with 100% silicone gel and really easily create your own stamps at a very low cost. I made a larger stamp, so i could use it at different angles so every base differed slightly. Did all my dispossessed that way! Thanks Vince.

[@VinceVenturella]

Yep, it's a great piece of advice, you might also be able to find a roller similar to this, but as this was a one off. No need to mass produce. ;)

[@geteavnroc2250]

This inspires me to buy a GSW roller. Thanks Vince!

[@VinceVenturella]

Yep, I can see that, I couldn't really find one I loved size wise for the tiles, but I do love me some GSW rollers.

[@AsteroidTVGaming]

Amazing Vince, thanks for the tutorial!!! this really really helps

[@VinceVenturella]

Awesome, happy to help as always. :)

[@alexandregillemadstudio1765]

As always, thank you Vince!!!

[@VinceVenturella]

My pleasure!

[@westonbarney3737]

Vince, do you think its possible to paint Damascus\pattern welded steel weapons? if so can we get a hobby cheating on how to do so to a high level?

[@VinceVenturella]

It's tough, I can see what I can come up with and add it to the list. I will say at 28mm it will be tough. That being said, if you were on something like a 54mm+ figure, I think you could certainly do it.

[@zakhoskins6404]

I've looked at the pattern you're referring to and I think Vince is correct when he says that it's pretty much impossible to paint by hand at 28 mm. However (and I haven't tried any of these), I do have 3 of ideas about how this MIGHT be accomplished. 1)If you want to scratch build your sword, you might want to look into polymer clay canes. You could make a cane by layering together the correct colors of clay together and stretch them until you get the correct layer thickness you need. After that, cut something to roughly the size you need, bake it, and then carve and sand as needed. 2)Another way I've seen a similar pattern done with only paint is via various "acrylic pour" techniques. There's a whole bunch of videos in the non-hobby art world that detail how to make patterns like this for abstract paintings. That said, this is a VERY small scale. It might be possible to take a teeny tiny amount of silicone oil (on like THE HEAD OF A NEEDLE) and apply it to a very thin paint film above the sword. Honestly, I think that'd kind of be a pain to do, plus it might be too thick of a film if you're applying it directly to the sword. That said, you probably could get around this by making a latex "skin" of your sword first. Remove that skin so that you know what the pattern would look like flat as opposed to layered over the model. Then once you know what the skin would look like, make another acrylic pour on a clean surface. After the pour is made, sand it down (with really high grit paper) until it is no longer too thick to be applied to the weapon. After it's sanded to a much thinner thickness, use your skin as a template, and cut out the pour until it matches the shape of the skin. Now that your pour is the right thickness and shape, apply glue to put it on your sword. 3)The easiest (maybe most expensive though) is to create a decal for something like this. It's a lot easier if it's for a 3d printed file as you can just UV unwrap the coordinates of your sword, and then have a decal printed off. That said, you could still create a latex skin as I mentioned in #2 if this is for a cast model. You'd just slightly deviate by painting the skin black (or anything not white so that it shows up better on a paper background), and then scan the skin into a computer file. After that, open up your favorite digital painting program and paint the scanned skin with the Damascus pattern (I'm sure someone has made a tutorial on digitally painting Damascus steel). Like I said, I haven't tried any of these, but I like being presented with these kinds of thought experiments. I hope one of these will work for you. Cheers.

[@p_serdiuk]

I think it should be possible to find acrylic resin that has very low viscosity, pour differently colored layers of it one on top of the other, and sculpt a miniature sword out of it.

[@remspoon]

great vid. you mentioned having to use CA glue to put the skull in. What is your go to glue for figure assembly? Thanks as always!

[@VinceVenturella]

For figure assembly, I use Revel Plastic glue. when I need super glue, I use Zap-a-Gap CA Glue.

[@Jerm-ct5jf]

great tutorial! still waiting for your warpaint video!

[@VinceVenturella]

It's coming, some day, I promise. :)

[@tubthumperloc3662]

Great instructional video Vince. I’m not sure a dungeon tile would be as neat and lined up ... the rocks would be placed haphazardly (unless maybe it was dwarves or gnomish construction)

[@VinceVenturella]

I was picturing dwarvish construction, but also, it was important that these were even for other reasons leading to their eventual display. :)

[@naphaneal]

take tweezers and place the stones more deliberate. gives you more control over the texture.

[@VinceVenturella]

Yeah, sometimes I do that as well, especially with the larger rocks, to some degree, I like the randomness of it, but it's a good tip.

[@MentoliptusBanko]

Wow, this is a display quality base? I made similar bases for my stormcast warband and 1000 sons kill team...so at least they are on display quality bases :)

[@VinceVenturella]

Hey, you were doing display quality work and didn't even know it. ;) - In all seriousness, this is a display quality gaming base, often for items in competition, you will do a stand alone non-gaming base as your display base.

[@zakhoskins6404]

No handcuffs on the base? I'm gonna go tattle to Slaanesh about what you did!

[@VinceVenturella]

I thought about it, but those are getting saved for a larger piece of this project, they will be there. ;)

[@jonbauml225]

Hi Vince, I have an unrelated question and forgive me if you've already done a video about it. I want to paint a mostly metallic scheme and I don't know the best way to varnish without loosing the luster of the metallic paint. Any suggestions?

[@VinceVenturella]

Don't varnish metals. That is really the answer. I paint all the matte paints, varnish, then do the metals and don't varnish them. They are tough enough you generally don't need to.

[@SwashBuccaneer]

So dry here in CO I bet it would only need to cure for 20 minutes lol

[@VinceVenturella]

Yeah, that's an advantage of a dry climate. ;)

[@chucklamb3496]

Could you show how you put a storm grate in a dungeon.

[@VinceVenturella]

I'll need a larger base, but I will see what I can do. The short answer, is you want to lay down your green stuff, milliput, whatever, then let it dry just a little, then press it lightly into the mid-dry clay. Then let it dry the rest of the way, cut out the line you made earlier, then place the storm drain or grate into the cut open area, it should be a perfect fit. Hope that helps.

[@Khaador]

Hi, can you do a base video with the bases you did for the ogor army in the last video?

[@VinceVenturella]

I'll add it to the list, they were honestly quite simple, but happy to share. :)

[@Khaador]

@@VinceVenturella I am sorry, you have to many videos 😉 I just found the marsian base one, that was exactly what I was looking for. But another suggestion would be a video on pigments (haven't looked if there is already one 😂)

[@skunk12]

6:32 "Gotta keep that tool nice and wet." -Vince Vinturella: Hobbyist/Pornstar

[@VinceVenturella]

A wet tool is very important. ;)

[@ThePerplexedMind]

Hi Vince, sorry to bother, but I cannot find your Secondary Objectives anywhere online? I would love to browse through them and maybe use some (and give a shoutout ofc!) in a narrative tourney I'm crafting a pack for.

[@VinceVenturella]

I am not sure if we have them shared anywhere out there online. Let me see if I can find a place to put them.

[@ThePerplexedMind]

@@VinceVenturella Much appreciated, love and support from Finland! Keep rocking dude!

[@rptrj1384]

i made a dungeon base template which i reproduced with blue stuff. not really worth it, would just make it from scratch again.

[@VinceVenturella]

Yeah, I think if I could find a roller with the right larger texture, I would use it if I was doing a whole army, but for one offs or small projects, from scratch is fine.

[@OriginPainting]

1st : )

[@VinceVenturella]

It's an honor, but it means technically you are the last comment I answer as I scroll backwards through the first day. ;)

[@crazyhippo99]

noone likes a dry tool!

[@VinceVenturella]

It's just a real problem all around. ;)

[@zakhoskins6404]

Also, the best way to work pus..........er........PUTTY....is to stretch it out XD