Holley 750 cfm 4160 (3310-4) Rebuild. Part # 2

Parts are in and now it's time to assemble this Holley 4160. Note: One thing I didn't do is spray WD-40 on the bolt holes, make sure you do this it helps when it's time to rebuild the carb again. The next video will be installing and tuning it for the sbc 327 on the run stand. If you like this video please hit the like and subscribe button. Thanks!

[@vincewarner1838]

Thanks Ronnie, no junk, just getting it done. Finished my first 750. Did have to take the choke back off to get the middle screw in of the secondary diaphragm housing. Good idea to take photos of anything unusual. My choke idle advance was different and took 30 or 40 minutes to sort out. Very good thank you!

[@ehguy3628]

Well, no numbers now, but I am about your age. In my late teens I ran a 1966 chev big block on the street and the drag strip. The engine was rebuilt by a local competent race tuner/driver that owned a service station a few miles from where I lived. Some Summer evenings we could actually hear his V/Dragster running up in one of the service bays of his garage. That first Summer I learned A Lot about how much some mechanics knew and how little others did know. The engine was solid lifters 12.5/1 compression ratio. Yes, Premium gas would take up to 36 degrees timing and not knock. That was awesome. Started out with a 780 cfm vac secondary Holley carb. The vacuum secondary had a choke and was used to stop the engine by pulling the choke hard when the TH 400 was in gear and the key turned off. I relate to your power valve advise. As when I got the car with rebuilt big block I could not get the engine to idle worth stink! I bought a hard to find book may have been the Holley 4160 or 41xx books and then a whole new world opened up. The rebuilder had a power valve installed that was opening always as the best vac reading I could ever get was 6in/mercury as I recall. With the right size power valve the engine idled quite well. I later upgraded the engine to an 850 DPumper but I kept that 780 and still have it in my closet and take it out a time or two to just recall the magic of it all. When racing was affordable, pump fuel was Good, and the police might even cut you a break now and then.

[@ronniehenson4122]

Love the story......

[@TheCanadianBubba]

Thanks for this 👍see that I am missing the inner plate for the secondary metering. Bought the carb off craigslist.

[@Midlanflyguy]

Hi from Altus. Always wanted to learn how to rebuild a carburetor, so I just picked up a 4160 on eBay to tinker around with.

[@ridered7262]

I'm at work so I will watch later but I have to rebuild the same carb. Thank you Sir! Just subbed

[@ronniehenson4122]

Thanks for the sub!

[@RichardMLowe]

New Subscriber like what you done on the previous video on Muratic Acid Dip

[@alevans51]

Get an OTT Light to see stuff in deep dark places.

[@fullthrottlekindaguy]

Thanks for the content. You’re squared away and like your style. You get things done. Reminds me of my time while I was in the service staying organized getting things ready for action. I added your page, it’s motivating for me.

[@ronniehenson4122]

Thank you!

[@gmaclaren]

Well done! Thanks very much.

[@longBowHunterII]

Mr Ronnie thank you for this video. very well done god bless

[@ronniehenson4122]

Glad you enjoyed it, Thanks!

[@RichardMLowe]

@@ronniehenson4122 nice

[@69RIDING]

GREAT VIDEO RON. LAST CARB I REBUILT WAS A QUADROJET 4 BARRELL SO I CHECKED OUT YOUR VIDEO JUST TO BE SAFE. LOOKS LIKE I WILL BE OK. BEST CLEARLY EXPLAINED VIDEO EVER. THANKS AGAIN. WILL B LOOKING FOR MORE VIDEOS FROM YOU. TAKE CARE.

[@ronniehenson4122]

Glad it helped

[@rphe2829]

Used the MFF expression thousands of times ,I did get a chuckle out of it

[@ronniehenson4122]

LOL!

[@blkcoupequattro]

I got a couple 3310-1's, used one to make a special build using a 1850 600cfm main body which is altered to accept the larger throttle plate from the 3310. The benefit of the smaller carb mainbody helps out with low end as I've got a 289 engine with a hot cam, and big valves, ported heads. I've run the 780cfm 3310-1 she runs little better in the upper end, but prefer the smaller carb around town. Oh yea appreciate your service for our country, keep them videos coming.

[@ronniehenson4122]

Thanks!

[@76629online]

Some of these carbs did not use a back plate and a back plate gasket underneath of the secondary metering plate. They make a conversion kit that allows you to add a back plate and back plate gasket. Without the back plate and the second back plate gasket sometimes the rear gasket will swell and affect how the fuel flows through that metering plate. Holley did this in the later years to save a little bit of money.

[@ronniehenson4122]

You are correct and I will always use the backing plate. Much better fuel flow for sure.

[@chrisbrown7801]

Great video

[@ronniehenson4122]

Thanks!

[@chjp2346]

At 23:12 you say a 4.5 power valve comes on quicker than a 6.5 when actually a 4.5 power valve stays closed longer and opens only after 4.5 vacuum is reached. A 6.5 opens sooner than 4.5 power valve. Thanks for the video!

[@ronniehenson4122]

I only deal with HP engines that have high lift cams and longer durations with typically lower vacuum (10" or less inches of mercury) Vacuum is measured in inches of mercury for example 1" of mercury is = to 2.036 of mercury. So power valves are designed to open @ a specific setting like 4.5 and yes 4.5 will start to open before a 5.5, 6.5, 7.5 ect... valve will. When you build vacuum in an engine they all start from 0 and build up to as high as 21" for a stock engine will. Most performance engines depending on the build could only have 10" - 12" psi.

[@chjp2346]

@@ronniehenson4122 What I was trying to say is; that if your manifold vacuum is 5.5 on your gauge then a 4.5 power valve is CLOSED and a 6.5 power valve is OPEN. Thanks for allowing me to clarify.

[@MrGrey-no7sn]

I hope your doing good Ronnie! I enjoy your videos alot and hope u keep making them. I find all your videos useful and cool! Your like meant to be on camera so please don't stop the content lol. And thank you for your service! My 70 camaro would be all jacked up if I didnt stumble upon your holly tear down video so thank you! Also. I lived in Oklahoma 2 times and couldn't stand the heat. How do you guys do it?? Im in back in nebraska now but my x finace stayed in Oklahoma. I tell her all the time. Yall crazy to live there ha ha

[@ronniehenson4122]

Thank you! Glad I could help you out. I love Oklahoma

[@alancoles6484]

Hey mate. Great vid only it finished before you finished the rebuild. Was hoping to see more of the Vac Sec Diaphragm assembly as you skipped that on the pull-down vid. I take it I just undo the 4 screw in the lid and swap out the diaphragm?

[@ronniehenson4122]

Sorry! not very good at this video stuff....lol! Yes on the diaphragm but, don't lose the check ball small ball bearing in there

[@48macho82]

At time 15:51 . . . Where the plastic needle would go is a little ball with a thin strip of wire keeping it in place. As a reminder I have a Marine carburetor. Is the little rubber needle necessary? . . Thanks again for the guidance and money saving tips!

[@rickmorgan211]

Thanks Ronnie,your video was very helpful,I'm not done yet, coming in an out of the shop to house to follow assembly But I got a question? When removing, assembly, on fuel inlets into front and back fuel bowl. I removed nut- then metal washer-then was the filter-then spring There wasn't a paper gasket in the bottom of either bowl My carb was brand new- just disassemble because I didn't start my project truck much,I think got clogged,gummed up with bad gas,it set for a year and half. Anyways were you drop the paper gasket down inside there's not even a flat spot inside there where a washer would even sit where the spring sets it's kind of oblong in the spring is catching on 3/4 around but I don't see how a paper washer would even sit in there and like I said when I took it apart it was basically brand new carburetor and there wasn't any on either one

[@ronniehenson4122]

Some of the newer carbs didn't have that washer so you should be good to go.

[@48macho82]

I may have missed it, but how did you remove the spouts that then allow you to remove and reinstall squirter?

[@plugger410]

Ronnie thanks so much for this video. I am definitely a novice, but I’m learning every day. So far I have managed to rebuild my C6 automatic, install a new timing set and water pump on my 460, swap in a 410 rear end, wire in new gauges, and about a half a million other things that keep adding up. I’ve got some other plans in the near future and rebuilding my carb is one of them. I have this exact carb but the previous owner bent the throttle linkage for whatever reason and now it’s kind of loose. I noticed that quick fuel has a replacement throttle shaft with kickdown linkage for the fords. Mine doesn’t have the kickdown now so I was thinking that would be good to swap that out and fix my loose throttle linkage at the same time. You ever swap out the throttle shafts when you’re rebuilding these? Any chance of a how-to video? Again, thanks so much. Excellent videos like yours are what help newbies like me be able to do stuff like this. Thank you for your service!

[@ronniehenson4122]

You're welcome and Thank you! After rebuilding hundreds of Holley's I've found out that normally it's not the throttle shaft thats worn out it's the base plate hole that the shaft goes into. Best to just get a replacement base plate. Sounds like your off to a good start....keep up the good work.

[@wesleychristian8780]

Tuning a Holley 750

[@ronniehenson4122]

I need to do a video on that for sure

[@robertclymer6948]

Hi Ronnie! Well explained and presented sir. I really like your attention to detail! Question? I have a Holley 750 cfm 4160 3310-6. How different is the 3310-4 compared to my 3310-6? Thank you for your input. Cheers from Motown!

[@ronniehenson4122]

Same carb , the last number is the latest tooling up date that Holley applied.

[@robertclymer6948]

@@ronniehenson4122 Thanks Ronnie, makes sense. See you soon.

[@johnc7431]

Ronnie I have a question for you I recently got a vacuum secondary carburetor just like the one you working on where the scorer goes there was no needle and seat there was just a ball bearing what would you suggest PS awesome video I watched your disassemble or the parts I will be putting it together this weekend

[@ronniehenson4122]

You will need to get one from eBay or some where, it's a must have item.

[@cs31-916]

I have a Holley 4160 "Street Avenger" 670 cfm that I will do a first-time rebuild kit on it and just wondering if I need any special tool or tools in the process?

[@ronniehenson4122]

Nope

[@simonturner4275]

Wow I never knew you could buy filters for the carb inlets on the bowls. What micron rating do you advise?

[@ronniehenson4122]

100 microns for fuel pump applications 40 for electric fuel pump.

[@simonturner4275]

Thanks for your reply. I am already running 100 micron filter before mechanical fuel pump and a 40 micron filter between pump and carb. Do you still recommend another filter on the carb bowl inlets?

[@ronniehenson4122]

@@simonturner4275 No you should be good.

[@48macho82]

Does my back meter need the small screws as well? For some reason my carburetor doesn't have screws in the back meter.

[@ronniehenson4122]

Yes

[@76629online]

I think you’re the only guy on the entire Internet that actually knows what a 4160 carburetor is. 99% of the videos that you find where people are claiming to be working on a 4150 or 4160 are actually working on an 1850 series carburetor. People are idiots.

[@ebersalcido8810]

Hey. Im putting my carb back together and i noticed that my secondary doesnt have the backing plate. How bad is that.

[@ronniehenson4122]

No problem at all, you will be good to go. I do use one on all my rebuilds, tho.

[@faronf2006]

Ronnie what would cause black discoloration in the main carb body ...a backfire 🤔 Previous owner of Holley 3310-4 carb said it was too much carb ( 750 cfm ) for his application . Never could get his car to run right ...too much fuel 🤔

[@ronniehenson4122]

Back fires from a poorly tuned engine will always cause the black main body build up. Not too much carb for a SBC 350 Holley 4160 are only running on the front two barrels, back are vacuum and only open up when you get into it.

[@johnlaws9853]

Hi Ronnie, Ronnie I heard you say you didn't like to have the choke hooked up. I'm curious as to why, and doesn't that make for harder starts in colder weather. And without a choke what is your method of starting a cold engine with no choke. Thank you.

[@ronniehenson4122]

My engines are well built and just a little gas and keeping your foot off the pedal so the butterflies stay closed when cranking .....will start right up without a choke.

[@johnlaws9853]

@@ronniehenson4122 Ok thanks. Ronnie this might be asking to much but I would like your advice if you have any experience running two four barrel (4160) carbs on a tunnel ram on the street. I'm getting ready to put the same setup on my 396 big block chevy street truck. I've been seeing where people only use the choke on one carb, do you know why they do this? And do you think I need any choke at all on either carb using a Weiand 5981 Hi Ram intake. It has pretty small pleneums also for a tunnel ram

[@ronniehenson4122]

@@johnlaws9853 If you running that set up on a gasser and only drive it for a little time that would be cool however, I would not recommend it at all on the street......that set up up is used for high RPM applications and don't work well for the street. Get yourself a good air gap intake with a Holley 750 HP. You will love the street-ability and performance. Good luck and Happy Thanksgiving! be safe.........#burningrubber

[@johnlaws9853]

@@ronniehenson4122It's a 89 C1500, I'm running a airgap 750 combo right now. The Weiand 1859 has very small pleneums and small diameter runners that combined with the long runners produces a very streetable high toruqe high rise setup. The gassers use big bulged out plneiums and very large diameter runners that kills the low end on the street. The Weiand hi ram is also round port with my round port heads will help build low end toruqe. Plus it's not like I can't go back to my old setup if I don't like it. Anyways it's happening and I'm wanting to know about the choke setup. I see to many tunnel rams on the street for it to not work if you do your homework. And that's what I'm currently doing. I do have 90 percent of what I need now for under $400 so if it's a mistake I'm not breaking the bank. Happy Thanksgiving to you Ronnie. By the way I was 13 bravo with the 2nd and 2nd Air mobile in Fort Sill OK about 40 years ago. Go Sooners!!!

[@ronniehenson4122]

@@johnlaws9853 It's really hard for me to make a recommendation not knowing how the engine is built and how the engine will be used. Look at all the dual 4 barrel set ups for sale on fb market place. $400.00 is cheap enough to make a run at it. Hope it works out for you..........Keep me posted on the results. Good luck!

[@byte3579]

Thanks for the video. You really need a torque wrench as I would guess you are over tightening by 10X!

[@ronniehenson4122]

For the novice rebuilder I would say yes however, I have built over 200 carbs and know what it takes. Good tip tho! Thanks!

[@byte3579]

Of course the snapped off choke bolt was due to a faulty screw ;)

[@ronniehenson4122]

@@byte3579 If I had sprayed WD-40 on the threads during the rebuild, I would never had a problem.

[@faronf2006]

Did you make or buy that little carb stand ?

[@ronniehenson4122]

Made it

[@faronf2006]

Hello Ronnie from northern Canada ....i just started watching your videos & have subscribed to your KZbin Channel 😎 I am looking to buy a used complete Holley 3310-4 ( 750 cfm ) carb for $100 CND . Can you tell me what size of stock engine this carb would work best on ? Would it be too much for a stock or slightly modified Chrysler Poly 318 engine ?

[@ronniehenson4122]

750 Holley 4160 is not too much carb at all on a properly built 318 engine with a little more advance on the timing.

[@faronf2006]

@@ronniehenson4122 good to know...thanks for that info .

[@jasonconaway69]

Mr.Ronnie. I have a 3310-4 I’m fixing to rebuild to go on a 355 build. My question is how can you tell the actual year of the carburetor? Mine says 0567. I know 056 means Feb 25th and the 7 is the year. But what decade? 77,87,97,07? Thanks for the awesome videos!

[@ronniehenson4122]

Holley has only made the 3310 for 20 years so my guess would be 2007

[@jasonconaway69]

@@ronniehenson4122 Awesome. Thanks for the reply! God Bless!

[@petergaida8028]

You said you'd like to run a 4.5 power valve because it comes in quicker. If you have 13 lb of vacuum then wouldn't a 6.5 pound come in sooner than I 4.5 lb? Just trying to figure this out as I'm changing my power valve from a 6.5 to 8.5 because I wanted to come on sooner rather than later

[@ronniehenson4122]

As a rule you would want to check your vacuum and divide that number in half and install the that power valve as you described above however, I have found out through out the years on a performance engine I get better performance out of my modified Holley running a lower power valve with smaller jets. Give the 4.5 a try and see if you like it better. They are easy to change. Let me know how it turns out.....

[@petergaida8028]

@@ronniehenson4122 I have a quick fuel 450 that came stock with 55 jets and 6.5 power valve. I'm running a AFR gauge as well and my AFR was high between 17-18 Afr. When I replace the power valve with an 8.5 my AFR drop down to 16 to 17. Then I raised the Jets up to 58th and now I'm right between 14 and 15

[@dangriffin3748]

why does my 4160, 3310 only have one gasket and one plate? My carb does not have the second plate. on the secondary.

[@ronniehenson4122]

Over the years someone lost them or just didn't use them I'm guessing

[@user-zu2ed6ye5w]

The 3310 is acually a 780, dont believe me ?? Measure the primary bores, then the secondarys, aha they are bigger ! Measure a 750 double pumper.. and all 4 bores measure the same, that is the truth !

[@rswiecek8695]

LLP

[@69shovlhed89]

do yourselves a favor when you rebuild your carb: take the junk ass secondary metering plate and throw that POS in the trash. buy a secondary metering block kit so you can actually jet your secondaries.

[@ronniehenson4122]

Absolutely no need to do that on a 400 HP street engine.............Most people over jet their holleys anyway jmo! :)

[@jimmattingly4234]

Whish I could talk to you

[@justdifferent2038]

hey ronnie, I ran into a 850 double pumper. for 20 buks i couldnt pass it up at least for parts so i looked into it an notice it was missing the rear plate bettwedn the fuel bowl.it had been left out side cause the throttle would not move. i lubed it up an it broke free zo i did that deal wit thd acid bath u did an it cleaned up good but there are alot of unevenspots i sanded it down an run some light sand paper it the bores do they have to be smoth as glass or will that affect any thing, an thanks for showing us how a real drag racer does things , I cant get advice from a mechanic wit out payin him (Keep up the good work

[@jasonconaway69]

Did these carbs come with a fast idle cam? Or would it need to be converted to an electric choke? Thanks!

[@ronniehenson4122]

They came with it

[@jasonconaway69]

@@ronniehenson4122 The carb in this video was missing it? I never saw it.