Homelite Super 2 Chainsaw - Carburetor Rebuild and Tuneup

My neighbor brought his Homelite Super 2 chainsaw to a local shop who turn away the work stating that it was too old. I heard about it and offered to help.
Carburetor Repair Kit: ZAMA C1Q-H17 CARB OEM KIT RB 46
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[@raymondsmith4808]

Just watched. I agree with others PLEASE CLEAN. Leaving dirt may be covering other concerns and causing your repair to fail.

[@mariowilliams1580]

If you had cleaned the engine you would have discovered the worn sprocket and saved yourself time and double work. Love your channel!

[@alext8828]

Ah, so...

[@benjover5663]

Thank you for taking the time to order new parts and do a repair thats gonna last

[@jcondon1]

Thanks

[@paulm.6437]

In 1982, I had a Homelight XL, and used it along with a larger chainsaw, to build my 30’x40’ log house-using the Swedish cope method. It held up really well, and I gave it to a neighbor, that had helped me with the build. Just glad I never had to tear into it to replace more than the chain.

[@brianallen9810]

My Dad had one, great chainsaw but man was that thing loud.

[@primarchxi6639]

@@brianallen9810 It is LOUD, yes! I guess, thats what earshields are for.

[@leskobrandon538]

I had a big 60's Homelite saw with a 48" bar.. had a round split tank for bar oil and premix that sat on the top on the motor.. that thing was a beast, sounded like a 250cc Maico dirtbike..

[@hddm3]

Love those old homelites

[@NothingButChainsaws]

Have two of these saws and love them. You did a great job! 👍👍

[@jcondon1]

Thanks 👍

[@CajunGreenMan]

I have a Homelite XL UT 10655 that someone had thrown out. Had it about a year maybe longer without getting into it yet. I've been watching your generator videos because I have three generators none of which ran when I got them, but one is nearly complete, thanks to your videos. Now that I know you also do chainsaws, I feel more confident about getting into my Homelite. Keep up the great work!

[@CajunGreenMan]

Here's the Homelite Service guide for this series of chainsaws. www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com/uploads/3/9/7/9/39792537/homelite_service_guide_xl_xl2_super_2.pdf

[@jcondon1]

Thanks

[@growland29024]

I've got the same saw, it runs no compression when I pull it

[@thepickn]

That's it keep your neighbor happy keep things positive .

[@johnhadley1117]

very superior close-up shots so appreciated James ::)

[@peteschiavoni]

Great machines. Last forever with some love

[@SimpleLife1971]

The beginning reminded me of an archeological dig! Nice job Jim!

[@silversurfer100]

The pump and check valve diaphragms removed from the carb indicates the carb had been rebuilt at least once as the carb maker did not use that type of material until long after the saw was made. It requires little effort to separate the engine from the case halves. A carburetor kit costs under $10.00 most anywhere you look. Labor to rebuild a carb, from tear down to assembly, is under an hour. I'm doing one with a chain oiler issue right now and the most difficult part of the job is cleaning out 30 years of cutting debris. Cleaning the engine and case before taking anything else apart keeps the dirt out of the engine and provides for seriously improved engine cooling after reassembly.

[@aurelienyonrac]

good to know. cooling is good ❤

[@trainboybob]

I really enjoy your videos. I rebuilt a neighbor's old Homelite similar carb last year and found that re-installing the needle assembly was tremendously difficult as keeping the spring in place while setting the shaft and set screw needed a third hand. Needless to say the spring popped and is still somewhere on the kitchen floor hiding. I was too embarrassed to tell my neighbor and couldn't find a replacement carb or kit but managed to source a replacement spring for $0.86 PLUS $25.00 shipping to Canada. I then built a spring corral on my kitchen table and got 'er done. You made it look easy. Thanks.

[@aurelienyonrac]

😅 oh my... thank you. you did the hard part so i would not have to. thank you for the warning. ❤

[@trainboybob]

@@OOOOOO12345 How come I'm not smart enough to think of that, a great solution. Thanks.

[@jonminer9891]

Hi, James. It is interesting that parts can be found for such old chainsaws. I hope such things can be found for our new devices, but I have my doubts. In some cases, no parts are available for new devices. Thanks for sharing! Stay Healthy!

[@NOAH_HINMAN]

Really Really good job well done

[@duathlete827]

Still use a homelite XL that's now probably over 40 years old. I've cleaned the carb 2 or 3 times over the years, put one or two new chains on it and it still works like a new one. Extremely well built. Mine has a true mechanical choke. No primer bulb nonsense. always starts easy.

[@gwrider2146]

Yep, my father bought an XL in 1980 and it's been a good little saw, has had many chains over the years and a clutch sprocket put on it about 15 years ago, other than that, it's untouched with the original bar!

[@soil-aint-dirt4903]

Such a great video! I enjoyed the journey, especially since I’ll be picking up one of these saws tomorrow!

[@wdobni]

that repair job reminded me of watching a watch repairman fix a 1937 pre-war wristwatch that been submerged in a lake for 9 years......but you got it running as we all knew you would.....i've owned horribly bad performing chainsaws and lawn mowers in the past and never really owned anything reliable until i bought my first makita 4 stroke chainsaw..........but all the gas chainsaws just shrivel up and blow away when compared to a modern lithium battery powered chainsaw....they are simple and reliable and powerful and convenient and they never disappoint......i bought a makita dual battery chainsaw and haven't used any other saw since i got it

[@stefanospsikarakis8536]

I'm actually working on the same exact chainsaw with the same exact problem. Pro tip* You don't have to pull the engine out of the casing. The plastic piece that covers the sprocket is pretty flexible. If you pull the sprocket off while bending the plastic slightly, it comes right off. You do not have to pull the engine apart.

[@GHaBBER1]

Thanks, i Needed that .. I repair it myself and save money.. 👍👍... greetz from the Netherlands

[@v-g-z3689]

The amount of dirt on this saw doesn´t help matters... I would always wash the whole machine until it´s spotless to avoid any potential faults due to dirt.

[@scor440]

What do you wash the saw with i never knew of anyone doing that good idea

[@v-g-z3689]

@@scor440 I usually use gasoline and medium sized paint brush.

[@matthall8632]

@@scor440 if you have a compressor and an air gun just blow the whole saw off after every use. Then just wipe it down with a rag. It will keep them looking brand new.

[@jamesfarley5183]

@@matthall8632 the flywheel fan always pulls sawdust/oil vapors to blow over eng. to cool so always eng.gets dirty w reduced cooling. a spray gun w compressed air to use mineral spirits is fast, works well in well ventilated area and reasonably safe .

[@christopherlindgren1185]

Thanks for this video. Have the same saw, little older, mine doesn't have the pump. The video will help with my service.

[@jameshedrick6839]

I have a saw just like that. Runs great found it in the garbage. All i did was clean it in a friends parts washer new fuel lines fuel filter and oil lines. Put fresh fuel in it and it fired right up and has been a great saw ever since. Also the plug wire goes under the cylinder not on top

[@ImaProctologist]

Hello James. #1 Yes missing gasket on diaphragm side of carb.. #2 Yes you were correct the switch is in backwards. #3 The coil wire goes underneath the cylinder head not above it. #4 Coil not needed just replace the coil wire !! Good job getting it running !! that was a messy little saw...

[@georgelynn2413]

Thanks for the video . I've got one of these with very very low hours. Apx 150 plus parts to fix. New ms180 stihl is $209. So buying the stihl and I will make this a winter project.

[@nakoawarrior3186]

Great Video. You let the cat out of the bag and now others know where to find replacement parts for their saws.

[@Walking_on_Chips]

I just found my old Homelite XL (Textron) stashed back in the corner of a shed I rarely visit. I've decided to tackle this project and get it back to running. I have the motor and chassis seperated. I'm having some trouble locating parts. Model UT-10694, carb-H17 26G. Fuel bulb is broke, bar n chain rusty, fuel n oil lines hard, sprocket. I did find a new bar n chain online, but so far all the parts places I've looked out are no longer carrying the other parts I need. I did check and it has spark. As I clean parts I will probably find it needs more. As long as I can find them im ok with that. Even this old/obsolete saw is better than most chinese saws. The flywheel even says made in USA, how rare is that! Thanks for any help you guys can offer. Enjoyed the vid.

[@1959rossco]

Another entertaining video I'm amazed that parts were available well done and keep em coming [ My ocd said quietly in my ear "Please clean ,Please clean "

[@JUMBOpin]

This little saw… really underrated!

[@GustavLjungdahl]

this is really helpful even do I will start to work on an even older Homelite so I hope I can apply some of the info

[@jimksa67]

thnx! you are up front! I got one from the dump- sorta works !

[@oldguy8177able]

yes you're a good neighbor i kind of agree with other comments how important it is to keep chainsaw clean

[@timowen3871]

The top oil line going into oil tank has to have a duck bill valve on it to creat a pressure inside of oil tank to force oil out on to bar. I is a very cool system just rebuilding my first chain saw great video I am try to make one THANKS!

[@dennish5711]

yes, that top line is not an oil return, but delivers air from the diaphragm to pressurize the tank and push oil to the top part of the oil pump then routes to the oiler hole

[@johnsampson6266]

Very nice of you to take the time to repair that chainsaw but little disappointed that you didn’t clean it up a little bit more before putting it back in the case.

[@jcondon1]

I know it was not spotless, but you would not believe how much I took out. In the end they get dirty real quick so did not go crazy on it.

[@johnclarke6647]

So much for maintenance.😍

[@87GP400]

Thanks !

[@johnclarke6647]

They make some liquid insulation that you can use to replace insulation on wires. After it dries it will protect the ignition wires. A lot of coils have the ability to replace the ignition wire without replacing the coil.

[@tomriggs3926]

I've never seen a tach used to adjust the High speed screw. It is more of the same method you showed for the Low side. Open up the throttle adjust the screw to the point the engine "4 cycles" and lean it just below that point. Then in a hard pull the engine will stay cooler. I worked for a store that sold Homelite, and Pioneer, chainsaws. And, I raced a go-kart with an alcohol burning McCulloch 101AA. These days I have a Stihl.

[@gioscervelo]

The "oil return " is likely a pressure line to pressurize the oil tank and drive the oil out the other line to tge bar. Mine is also a Supper 2 but the carb is different with a separate crankcase diafram pump to pressaurize.

[@andybecker2693]

That’s why you’re having trouble holding a tune and it keeps idling up because the missing gasket is causing an air leak. When you take them apart the gasket is always stuck to the diaphragm and that’s what happened in your case. You had more patience than I would have though and did a good job.

[@alsouthern7190]

Was binge-watching your videos, which i watch your new ones each week, but my OCD flaired up while watching you work on this dirty chainsaw that i could not finish watching. Anyway i'm off to your many other vids i love to watch ; )

[@jcondon1]

Believe it or not, I cleaned it. Maybe not enough, but removed a lot of junk.

[@user-gi3xj8nz3s]

I enjoyed watching your videos you take the time to explain and find a solution to whatever it is your working on. Keep up the good work and the videos 👍👍

[@chuckthebull]

Just got one of these given to me and i can't understand why people act like old is "bad" probably the corporate conditioning that warped peoples minds to think that way so they can up-sell them with the latest and so called greatest....i have a lot of vintage tools and they work far better when maintained well and fixed up than the new garbage they sell in the big box stores.. Thanks for doing this video so ill know what to expect striping this down and rebuilding the carb

[@mzjango]

good job

[@garymucher9590]

How can you possibly work on anything that dirty and not clean everything off and clean it up. The dirt doesn't help the engine cool and traps heat. My OCD would have had that thing spotless before reassembly. Just my opinion...

[@alext8828]

Yeah, the dirt presents a problem. But what would be the best way to clean these things? He goes thru quite a few motors. I would use a pressure washer on it. I have a tiny little Ryobi that would make that thing sparkle. But that dirt's gotta go somewhere. I was cringing that the dirt would find it's way into something crucial. If it were Taryl, he would just wipe it off with his sandwich.

[@tonym6920]

I agree, makes good sense to clean it when it is all apart.

[@aurelienyonrac]

clean the old wood dust and oil to make room for the wood dust and oil 😅 as long as it does not hinder anything it does not harm.

[@bertgrau3934]

@@alext8828 I use carburetor cleaner, and paper towels, a screw driver , or ice pick for tight areas.

[@jonmyers8046]

@@alext8828 🤣🤣🤣🤣 and there's your dinner

[@WolfTheDog]

I have an even older Super 2 that needs some work. I'm a certified Stihl tech but that doesn't mean it's easy to find parts for saws this old. Even stihl phases parts out. I'll probably end up using a rebuild kit butnits so good to see these old saws still working

[@gregdawson1909]

Heroic effort for anything Homelite, they were junk back in the 70's even. Good on you for helping out a neighbor though!

[@stevenkinnison8044]

Homelite's were one of the best and toughest saws ever made.

[@gregdawson1909]

Throughout the 70's, 80's and mid 90's we cut hundreds of cords of firewood, and probably 20,000 lbft of lumber with 2 saws, a partner F65 and P100, both saws still run and cut strong. I still have a pro grade Husky from '94, used in a small arborist business heavily for 10 years, still runs great. Maybe not a fair comparison, and I'll admit I am not an expert of what particular homeowner grade saws are the best, but in my experience Homelite has come up short.

[@kerrygleeson4409]

Brilliant your good deed well done

[@jcondon1]

Thanks

[@jayurban4313]

Man, you get a bunch of good use out of that screwdriver hammer!

[@davidsmith-ih2kk]

Well something different than talking about dirt My first chainsaw was the Partner brand older than this but basically the same I must have cut so many trees with it for firewood trees much much wider than the length of the saw I used it till it just was impractical to use it anymore but what a saw it never gave up ran for years and did me a fine job of cutting I loved that saw it was just a brilliant chainsaw so I am not surprised you want to keep it going its worth it Good video as usual great to watch

[@ebfromwyoming4118]

Sir great video i got one of those super 2 chain saws thks for the part # and video sir be safe

[@johnclarke6647]

Anytime you are dealing with an old saw with a spur sprocket it is a good idea to check and/ or replace the sprocket.

[@johnclarke6647]

The reconnection of the throttle linkage is always the hardest part of reassembly.

[@MultiBrommer]

24:10 no need for a tacho meter! this is what you do: pull full throttle then turn the adjustment screw counterclockwise until it breaks up. (should sound like a 4 stroke engine) turn the screw clockwise until it runs almost smooth. always let the engine break up a tad for lubrication. (favor the rich side) i'm a chainsaw mechanic. we never use tacho meters! we let our ears do the job.

[@johnclarke6647]

I love my little Mac 32-16, which is very similar to your Super 2. I went through everything on my little MAC and returned it to like new condition. I call it One Pull Charlie because that is what it is. It will even start easier than my Stihl 241 C-M, which is computer controlled and my Stihl 181 CBE. One pull from full choke and it is running. Can’t ask for more than that. You have to watch those Homelite carb. - they do not take generic carb kits, same for the MAC. They may look like they use a K10 WAT,, but they don’t.

[@patthesoundguy]

To find the right carb kit you can just look at the side of the carb get the model of the carb and go to the carb website whether it'ss walbro or Zama and you match the kit to the carb.

[@TheTechie1]

Hi Jim, what a good neighbor you are, its hard to find people like you to fix things.

[@DeadKoby]

Holy dirt balls Batman! That saw needed a clean for certain.

[@jcondon1]

I did clean it, but not well enough....

[@johnflo7592]

I have the exact same one with a bad sprocket also. I did't pay much for it when I bought it 35 years ago but it has been trouble free the whole time. Great saw mine had even more dirt than this one I powerwashed the plastic parts and cleaned the motor with compressed air. Great video

[@rudygeorgiamulesandcountry1594]

This video brought back memories. Those were quirky little saws ! Kmart had them in their Sunday ad every week for $ 88.oo . I cut a lot of camp fire wood with mine over the years. In fact I still have it around here a part in a bo somewhere. You might want to greast the sprocket tip. Those also have a little rubber duck bill valve ( in the gas tank ?) that you want to keep open.

[@rudygeorgiamulesandcountry1594]

I think the duck bill valve might have been inoil tank. ?

[@emptech]

I still have that same saw, it is so simple to use. I think you are missing a primer bulb. One is the fuel cap for the fuel tank. The bulb on mine cracked, got too old. I found one on ebay that somebody built, they took a cap with the right threads and looks like they glued a bulb on it. On the bottom of the cap are two plastic tubes. Plastic tubes slip over them, easy to get the tubes reversed. I have two newer saws but still live this one. I bought it many years ago as "rebuilt." I think that Homelight had a bunch of returns, refurbished them and resold them, I think through Home Depot, like I said, many years ago. Thanks for the video. Jim

[@gioscervelo]

Jeeze. I revived one of these . Putting it back together was like getting toothpaste back in the tube.

[@Jim-ie6uf]

With shop rates anywhere from $60 to $90 an hour, it’s not worth it. However, if you can fixit yourself or have a friend who can, you may be ok. I like my neighbors, but not that much. First thing I would have done was give it a cleaning.

[@jonhatfield7785]

hello i enjoyed your videos and am also a small eng mechanic on spare time i usally use chem dip or the solvant tank to clean anything like carbs and stuff what was the thing in this video that u used to clean the carb when you put it in some time of hydro cleaner it blew my mind what is in it and it works that good? i usally have to wait 20, 1 hr , overnight sometime soak them

[@jeffclark2725]

Good video,didnt know if you did 2 cycle stuff,Those homelites were good machines,no body wants them fixed anymore,i used to fix them all the time,mine were metal body style

[@peterdubyoski4622]

Hey cousin, nice video.

[@johnclarke6647]

Lifter adjustment. Yes, they have a big W for Walbro and a big Z for Zama carbs. I have both. They are cheap. These tools are marked for each carb. Most of them are level with the top of the car body. But some carbs are slightly below level. I think the C1Q is a smidge below level with the body.

[@VidelicetMoi]

I learned a lot from this video. The good, the bad, the ugly. Sergio Leone couldn't have done better 👍.

[@65csx83]

Good display of multiple skills. Video making; mechanical; detective, i.e., coming up with an alternative carb kit; and going the extra mile on that sprocket. A dilemma issue for me is where you replaced good used parts simply because the kit had new ones. I've been disappointed by new parts so I'd have been reluctant to do that. I hope we don't find that the neighbor decides not to deal with the looming remaining issues and decides it's a good time to unload it and puts it in his yard sale for $20.

[@jcondon1]

I agree. I hate touching anything that is not broken. But sometimes I do.

[@GeorgeWilcox-cv7mh]

I have four older homelights. The on off wires can ground against the fins. So more tape is needed.

[@reneberthold334]

That's the reason why I only buy Stihl. The carburetor can be removed and cleaned quite quickly. Especially as I find saws without a chain brake quite dangerous.

[@troystanley192]

I wonder if that missing gasket is there to prevent the corners of the carb body from cutting into the diaphragm as it pulses up and down? Or perhaps to give proper clearance for the full pump of the diaphragm.

[@johnclarke6647]

I was taught you let a saw run at least five minutes before adjusting the carb, so it is fully warmed up.

[@jamesfarley5183]

usually a minute is enough if u adj. both jets to lean plus 1/8 to 1/4 rich for hi load cut and idle sudden accel. stumble.

[@danburch9989]

Very educational videos you put out. Most people tell us what they are going to do. You tell us the WHY you have to do what needs to be done. Too old to fix? Probably the shop has previous experience with this model chainsaw. Parts & labor cost would probably exceed the value of a new chainsaw.

[@jcondon1]

Parts and Labor definitely would have exceeded the value of this one.

[@rooster3019]

A worn/stretched chain (the drivers get out of pitch) will "eat" a new sprocket. A worn socket will similarly quickly wear a new chain's drivers. Good strategy is to have three new chains per new sprocket. Use each until dull, sharpen all three and rotate useage again. By the time all three chains are worn to the max, get new sprocket and chains. These engines, so far as I have seen, always have a gasket on the carb and then the pump diaphram, this provides the volume of fuel best for high speed use.

[@stevenkinnison8044]

Homelite chainsaws were one of the best saws ever made from the 80's and back.

[@johnclarke6647]

My rule is - if I have to go into a carb I always replace the diaphragms. I do not like the old adage - we fix things right, we fix them twice. I do not like having to go back into a carb the second time. I also pressure check them before putting them back on for the same reason.

[@jcondon1]

Need to get a mityvac

[@johnclarke6647]

@@jcondon1 that is not all you will need. You will need rubber gasket material and short pieces of hose to connect up carbs and to seal off carbs and exhausts. I keep these in my MightyVac case. I have the 8500 version. I really like to use it on chainsaw carbs to make sure they are holding pressure and working correctly. They are also great at pressure testing fuel tanks, fuel lines and tank vents on two cycle stuff. I keep mine in my office, so as not to expose it to the cold and heat in my shop. Mine cost about $75 when I got it and comes with a nice case and lots of little connection adapters.

[@jamesfarley5183]

@@johnclarke6647 the mityvac uses extra components for the pressure ie , the plunger shaft, lipseal at rear an extra ckvalve . w a lot of use or dry shaft lipseal wears and seals less so pressure max drops . any gas instantly swells seals. all parts of carb can be checked before disassembly including hi ck valve to determine if it can be rebuilt or best replaced. purge bulb operation also.

[@CajunGreenMan]

My Homelite XL parts list shows two carb options, one Walbro, one Zama. Apparently you have to look at the numbers-letters on it like you did to determine which you have. Even though Homelite tech support says mine was made around 1988, they were able to email me the operator's manual and parts list while I was still on the phone. Imagine they can do the same for your neighbor.

[@tonyc.4528]

I put a carb kit in my Dads Super XL once. That was enough to make me want to NEVER do it again.

[@jackfrosty79ify]

Did one today not that bad got one more to do soon .

[@moseyzol4312]

Thanks for taking your time and going through the repair process step by step. I would like to know about the kind of solvent liquid that you have used in the sonic cleaner. Thanks,

[@ek8710]

The third oil line is the pressure line, it should have a duckbill check valve on the end in the oil tank, this pressurises the oil tank to push it up to the needle pump. On these chainsaws the duckbills like to revert back to the goo they were refined from and on a saw of this age, expect to replace them all with quality oregon red ones. Also check the needle on the diaphragm oil pump is free to move, my super 2 VI wasn't oiling and it turned out the little needle had frozen in place, was able to free it up.

[@glenspryszak6005]

I have 2 of these and they are SO picky. They need to idle fast or they will stall. This machine you are working on is absolutely filthy. No wonder it didn't want to run. The good side is, they cut like crazy at full throttle and are great for limbing and dicing up small stuff... Be careful because they like to kick back and up.

[@johncourtneidge]

Fascinating! It's remarkable that the air filter works in such a dusty environment!

[@chrismoodie3668]

damn you got that thing running rich! also that chain needs a sharpening

[@justinweaver8787]

It's not to old they are great lil saws

[@johnclarke6647]

You need to sharpen that chain. Did you notice how grabby it was? That is from a dull chain. I had the same problem with my 3216 MAC. At first I thought the rakers were to hungry but that was not the problem. The problem was the chain was dull.

loại này sài rất tốt👍

[@danray9744]

the gasket that go's on bottom is the fuel metering diaphragm the gasket that goes on top with the check flaps is the actual Fuel Pump Diaphragm

[@gregleithoff5943]

I know it's not my saw but I would have taken more time to clean it while apartt. Great video, thank you!

[@barrygrant2907]

And that, my friends, is why when my identical Homelite saw went south, I tossed it in the trash and bought something else. The little diaphragm has failed. No small engine repair shop would touch it, all saying a new one would be cheaper.

[@zweg1321]

Those were through away saws There was no thought that it would be around this long For this to have lasted this long he must not use it much When I was young my father in his late 60 used one to limb trees while I cut the trunks Glad to see you got it fixed for your neighbor

[@jcondon1]

yah, I think it was his fathers. I agree completely. I just picked up two Craftsman chainsaws for $15 each and they are a million times better and more serviceable. But gotta keep the neighbors happy so they do not call the police every time I start an engine to test it.

[@MrRmh3481]

Interesting that the name of the saw is Super 2, but it no longer has 2 throttle triggers? The original Homelite Super 2 had the forward throttle like a top handle, but also had the rear trigger like a standard saw. Good Job on the repair.

[@glennandpamlang190]

I find your repairs to be fascinating. You really know what to do. I too have an issue with not cleaning the mess out of the machine while you have all of the difficult disassembly accomplished. And it was your neighbors?

[@bradpotter6401]

I'm getting ready to go through an old Super 2, and your video has given me some insight on what to look for that might be worn. You can't buy small gas chainsaws in California any more so these old timers might become desirable if they run like new. Also, does anybody know what RPM is designated for the high speed mixture setting?

[@andyhamilton8940]

Easy to mix up the bar oil and fuel on that little saw. I know since I have one!

[@gregorypiercesr.2769]

Great job! I was surprised that you didn't clean the unit before u did the reassembly? You usually do that.👍👍

[@eladlanir1331]

Mr Condon, Thank you very much! This video helped me so much, I have the same chainsaw, and I tried to get it work and with your detailed video it runs! Its a big win after any professional wouldn't even looked at it. The only problem is that it runs for a few seconds and dies...no matter how I tune it. Any idea why? (I added a new bulb, and double checked my connection as I saw it earlier in comments)

[@jcondon1]

elad lanir there are several things it could be. The check valve, diaphragm or maybe the needle arm height in the carburetor, the reed valve or maybe the crank seal. A leak down test might be needed to test the crank seal for leak as well as other leak areas. Otherwise the reed valve you can remove inspect the reeds to make sure they are sealing. Shining a light on one side also helps. You should see little to no light on the other side.

[@eladlanir1331]

@@jcondon1 Thank you for replying! I'll try and check the things you mentioned...hope I'll figure it up.. Thanks!

[@aurelienyonrac]

​@@eladlanir1331 what was it? thank you

[@jamesfarley5183]

@@jcondon1 a defective hi ck valve allows air pressure to push fuel out of carb at idle only causing gradual starvation @ idle only, hi speed not affected. def. crank seal most notably affects idle rather than hi speed .

[@mattstacy1652]

I’m having a terrible time with one of these. It runs great for about 15 secs and then runs out of fuel. I can get it to restart by choking 2 pulls and back to half. Starts and revs up fine then like hitting the kill switch, 15 secs it’s dead. Tank not venting? The metering side of the carb staying plugged?

[@PNWSmallEngineandLawn]

If you look at the top of the carb usually right next to the mixture screws it will give you a 3 letter code. Type that code in online and you will find a kit.

[@jcondon1]

Thanks

[@artompkins7958]

Mr Condon - thank you for sharing your time and expertise so generously with people like me who almost never have a chance to work on things like this. It seems you found this carburetor in pretty good shape. In your opinion, would just having cleaned and reassembled it restored functionality to the saw? Thanks again for your time!

[@jcondon1]

I think just cleaning it would have worked in this case.

[@GuardianAngle93]

You knew I was going to ask what was in the ultrasonic.