Honda Civic EX 8th Gen Tensioner Replacement - How To! Nice and Smooth Now!

In this video, it's the first of many for doing some repairs on my Honda Civic 2007 EX (not an L) and creating How To videos for you all. This was the toughest and longest video of the bunch but I filled it with as many details as I could.
This applies to the Civic of the 8th gen 1.8L engine for the 2006 - 2011 model years. One of the important tools I used was a HEX Bit Socket Set for on the side of the tensioner and then impact sockets.
This thing was vibrating all around and when turning on the AC, it was about to stall out, it felt like! No more of that!
Follow me on Instagram! GTSAMAUTO!

[@damanmoneysaver]

The guy here said torx bit on tensioner it's an 8 metric Allen socket you need . And you don't need to pull the motor mount bracket at all. You remove the bell wheel from the water pump after you remove the negative battery cable after that then removing the alternator. Then you go to the passenger side and remove the wheel well cover and access plastic panel. Get some new fasteners ready before hand buck a piece at honda. Then loosen the front tensioner bolt. Then go to assess panel position the Allen bit and breaker get it to crack one or twice from access. The positioning from under so you get a good leverage from top with breaker bar attached. Then from top move ac hose aside to left of you and push hard till bolt loosens then use small rachet to get rest of way. This video is way extra work.

[@oldrestless]

You can get Allen and breaker bar in through the passenger wheel access? It's not necessary to drop engine?

[@kryptik0]

This video convinced me that I should not try to do this or replace the belt until I see any signs of problems. Screw this.

[@GTSam]

Haha, can't disagree with you. If you have time and the tools and need to, do. But otherwise, you can wait.

[@mvukosa]

I've been putting off this repair for so long because of all the rust I have on certain bolts on my 2008 Civic LX w/ 250k mi. You're lucky because it didn't look like you have much rust on your car. I wish I lived in an area where they didn't use salt on roads.

[@GTSam]

Oh dang, that's gonna be tough. Hopefully, if you soak them in WD-40 once a day, it may help a lot! I live in PA so salt is definitely a thing here too...

[@drury2d8]

Spray pB blaster 2-3 days before working on your car.

[@strykerlandwill]

Hey man . proud of you. I can tell by the way you speak about this operation that you are at the beginning of your journey turning wrenches. This repair is a mid level repair and can go south quick. while ill do mine a bit different, thank you for going out ahead of me and sending back the video. Full Stryker.

[@GTSam]

Thanks a lot!

[@cristianruiz4367]

I watched all your videos haha the way you explain things are just so clear I really appreciate all your work! Looking forward for more videos of your civic I have a 2008 ex so almost the same.

[@GTSam]

Wow, that's great to hear! A loyal viewer. I appreciate it! For sure, more Civic videos are coming, can bet on it.

[@tolygnandt6020]

thanks this video was super helpful in trying to figure out how to do this myself. love working on my civic and being able to do it all the stuff myself/ learning how to do it is nice.

[@GTSam]

My pain is your gain 😅 Glad to help as always though!

[@user-uv5ou6dr6z]

Great video , 🤠 !! 😮 I’m learning from you & Preparring to Replace my cars water pump + Belt. Also one thing man , I didn’t see you doing the torque on some bolts, ( bottom part , As other videos shows ) they say is supposed to have torque specs . Other than that , Great Video to relay on !!

[@JoshuaMurray-wl7nk]

For holding the tensioner in place use a rubber belt strap oil filter removal tool

[@billsmith4903]

Good work Thank you for sharing

[@GTSam]

Of course! Thanks for commenting and watching!

[@kevinplay3724]

Good video... Wanted to get this done and didnt want to spend time trying to figure out everything... I didnt do everything exactly the same but this was good guidance

[@GTSam]

Thanks for the feedback! Glad it was helpful for giving you a good idea of what goes on with this repair.

[@drury2d8]

Nice Video! I'm using this clear illustration as a reference to bypass the AC compressor by installing a civic-DX (non -AC) belt. My AC is messed up and with 180K miles theres no need for AC during the fall/ winter. AC replacement is $1100!

[@GTSam]

Wow, good idea! Heck, who knows, might get better MPG!

[@drury2d8]

@@GTSam I tried replacing the tensioner, the 10 mm pivot bolt is stuck rock-hard! I can see my 3/8th breaker bar bend while I try to break the bolt loose. Terrible design, especially up north. The pivot bolt should have been a 14mm with a 12 hex socket.

[@kryptik0]

Replacing A/C compressor is not that difficult. The most important part is properly removing R-134 and then refilling it after the repairs are done. Let the auto shop do those two things on two separate trips.

[@damanmoneysaver]

Use screw driver to stick in hole of bell wheel to brace. 10 mm wrench to get bolts off. Strip bolt rachet if needed.

[@rons113nj]

Getting the new belt on can be a hassle sometimes. I found the best way is to zip tie it to the power steering pump in the back and cut the zip ties when you get it on. Don't forget to cut them off.

[@GTSam]

That's a good idea since you aren't taking the hoses off and dumping fluid everywhere.

[@paulosanchotene1739]

To put or remove the water pump pulley there is a hole in the middle that you can use a L shape allen to hold in place so it doesn't move.

[@GTSam]

There we go! Tips are always good to know!

[@BulliKid]

Did the new tensioner move the same like the old one had wiggle and knocking noise when the belt was off?

[@GTSam]

No, the new one is more robust and stable. I will say that after 1000s of miles, it is still great and running well. It started to wear in and moves SLIGHTLY but no where near as bad as it was.

[@brandonflores7239]

23:50... The joy of getting that bolt lose. I've been stuck on 4 hours + , trying to get it lose. This mf bolt does not want to come out. I dropped the engine to have better access with the impact gun, and it still does not want to come out. Complete nightmare.

[@GTSam]

Whoa, that is really bad. Can you spray a ton of liquid wrench back behind it to help at all? What about maybe some heat?

[@waleyefish9026]

The local Mechanics in my area runaway from this job because the Torx bolt holding the tensioner on sometimes breaks and then you have to drill it out without any room to do it. Did you spray that down with penetrating oil a day before? Well anyway you did a great job!👍👍👍👍

[@GTSam]

Thanks a lot for the positive feedback! I have heard stories about this bolt and if it is from the rust belt, I can image the bolt being heck to take out. Also, weirdly enough, I think the tensioner was greasy enough that the bolt was covered in it and helped it, haha. But penetrating spray of any kind won't hurt. Can only help so I'd say go for it! Just don't get it all over your serpentine belt. 👍

[@bcbjbggjh9102]

mine didn't break on me but it strip, had to drill and rethread ... it was a pain to do it, i had to fix my mechanics problem, my civic was at his house for 1 month cause he kept drillling and messing up the hole ... smh .

[@MrS22222]

Yep, mine is wiggling just like that. Did it shake back and forth slightly at red lights with the ac off? Looks like this is what I have to do.

[@GTSam]

Yep! Wiggle and shake!

[@jaimearreola5571]

🙏😷 praise the Lord you're awesome

[@GTSam]

Well, thanks! Glad it helped!

[@riccsty7851]

Does anyone know that the swivel part that he replaced is called? I look everywhere for a tensioner but its just showing the pulleys

[@GTSam]

I think I know what you mean. Is it the piece at the end that moves up and down? If so, it comes on the tensioner itself and cannot be changed out separate.

[@peterjoel7390]

Am having a serious issue fixing my tensioner I have spent so much money yet de same after fixing everything the water pump pulley is eating up the tensioner Pls I need serious help on that

[@GTSam]

Got your picture! Thinking the part is super old or something is wrong out and angled wrong and digging into it.

[@peterjoel7390]

@@GTSam I have gotten new tensioner but still de same I have also changed the water pump and the pulley yet the pulley is still eating up the tensioner, I don’t know what to do

[@GTSam]

@@peterjoel7390 are things over tightened that the components would run into each other?

[@user-vw4sm9jf9s]

Could of used the belt to take water pump pulley off.

[@carlmichaeladornado3607]

Ist good to replace with taiwan made?

[@GTSam]

I would say so. Just make sure it isn't a super cheap model and you trust the company. I went with Continental brand because I have had good success with them in the past.

[@TourettesMobileMechanic]

Bruh. Forget that bolt. Also. Please put something to support the oil pan your going to damage the gasket and maybe the whole motor. I was able to get to the pulley and get it off. The adjuster bolt in the sleeve is not coming off. Forget that slide the brake lines out the way and replace the pulley only. Thank me later everyone. I just did this. It was bloody hell!!! 😅😢🎉

[@GTSam]

What bolt? And damage what gasket?

[@lovemym16]

Notice how he skips the part of fighting with it for 5 hours to line back up

[@GTSam]

Oh, for sure! Ain’t no one got time to watch that for even an hour.

[@H33t3Speaks]

This pivot bolt, was made be the mf’n Cenobites. I’m serious. It has probably under gone some kind of interfacial galvanic welding with the block and is essentially impossible for many to remove without destructive repair. From what I’m gathering, and personally experiencing. May G-d have mercy on anybody that attempts this repair.

[@GTSam]

Haha! It ain't for the faint of heart!

[@H33t3Speaks]

@@GTSam I got it out! Looks like the trick may be to heat the back of the bolt carrier, in the block. Heating the face of the bolt is pointless as there are no threads underneath the head. If you gently heat where the bolt runs behind the water pump with a propane torch, you should eventually break the galvanic bond/corrosion between the iron bolt and the aluminum engine block. I quite literally heard the threads let out that distinctive "ping" several times as the heat transferred through the block and bolt. Penetrating oil didn't seem to make a difference because there's no real threads for it it creep along: and I use Kroil, which is wild good stuff. Clients car purrs like a car now, AC nice and strong, etc, etc.

[@GTSam]

@@H33t3Speaks nice work! That corrosion can be a real bugger. Heat usually is a good idea too. I've added Free All to my stock pile lately and it seems to be a better bolt buster too.

[@hondahonda5110]

Code belting.?

[@GTSam]

What is that?