Honda Civic Side Engine (Motor) Mount Replacement 2006 (2006-2011 Similar)

[@BigDog50001]

*Tools and Parts* This channel earns a small commission using some of these links - at no additional cost to you. Side Engine Mount 50820-SNA-P01: amzn.to/2MUVJPs Torque Rod (Upper) 50880-SNA-A82: amzn.to/2MVVSSs Milwaukee M12 3/8" Ratchet: amzn.to/2Ll5rbJ Milwaukee M18 Impact Wrenches: amzn.to/2MXN0vB GearWrench Ratchets: amzn.to/2Ljk4MA Sunex 1/2" Impact Sockets: amzn.to/2LiR6N1 Sunex 3/8" Impact Sockets: amzn.to/2Ll99SH GearWrench XL Flex Wrenches: amzn.to/2LmIuoB Telescoping Magnet: amzn.to/2MTXP1O GearWrench 3/8" and 1/4" Sockets: amzn.to/2NOKac8 GeaWrench 1/2" Sockets: amzn.to/2LiTGTd GearWrench 3/8" Extension Set: amzn.to/2ZL26Xh Snap-On Torque Wrench: bit.ly/2TzsaU0 Astro 40SL Light: amzn.to/2ZPtfsi Daytona Jack (cheaper at Harbor Freight): amzn.to/2UDpR2V Upper Torque Rod Bolts (2) 90168-S5A-000 Upper Torque Rod Bolt (1) 90166-SNA-A00 Side Engine Mount Nut (1) 90213-S5A-003 Side Engine Mount Bolt (1) 90160-SNA-A00 The Big Dog 50001 Automotive Channel Store can be found here: www.amazon.com/shop/bigdog50001automotive

[@markcollard9326]

I will say that this is one of the, if not the, best tutorial I have seen from a mechanic. Thank you so much for this!

[@La_Vi_]

Thanks for this great video. I'm in Australia and have the RHD variant. The break fluid reservoir sits above the big bolt on the torque strut mount and made removal a real pain in the *** The AC, power steering and brake lines were also a pain to deal with. I now have much more respect for Honda mechanics who have to deal with tiny engine bays on a daily basis!

[@Relicsun]

You are one of the best Mechanic out there, well explained and well done.

[@BigDog50001]

I appreciate the comment, thanks!

[@saxonfan]

I second that.....I wish I knew if you were close to Ohio. I would love to use you for my mounts.

[@lawrencesawicki2292]

3rd that. A real pro job :-)

[@klutch14u]

Ok, subject matter aside. This has to be the best, most comprehensive, clearly explained, well lit, no BS video I've ever seen on KZbin on how to do ANYTHING. The DOUBLE wrench drop was epic, you really didn't think you'd get out of there without dropping something did you?

[@BigDog50001]

I appreciate the comment, thank you!

[@stargazer_100]

I dropped the oil filler cap down between the engine and firewall once. It didn't hit the floor and there is no metal in the oil filler cap. I had to raise the car (with a floor jack, etc.) just to retrieve it. I made more than an ugly face when i did that. Thanks for the wealth of information. Excellent video.

[@BigDog50001]

Never fun when you drop something in the engine compartment and it doesn't hit the floor! Thanks for the comment!

[@rajewsr]

Thank you for creating this video. Your video enabled me to do it myself. My 2006 Honda Civic GX is appreciative too. The vibrations caused by a third party motor mount was driving us crazy! Replacing with a Honda original parts (50820-SNA-P01 and 50880-SNA-A82) solved our vibration and related noise problem. Providing torque specs was very helpful too.

[@andrewk778]

Nice to see someone use a torque wrench. Thank you for sharing.

[@BigDog50001]

Thanks!

[@ktt2205]

Thank you for the tiny details such as neutralizing motor mounts, very good advice. I decided to change it myself after watching your video though the local mechanic charge quite decent fee, as I had never seen them using torque wrench! :D

[@BigDog50001]

Thanks for the comment!

[@happy543210]

the right tools make all the difference!

[@BigDog50001]

They do help, thanks for the comment!

[@fordon20s]

Thank you for the video and all the torque specs. I just finished this project in about 2 hours without an impact wrench. If you can borrow a 1/2” impact then I highly suggest it. I had an 18” breaker bar and about a 15” pipe on the end and it was almost undoable. All the bolts for the mounts (the 47 & 54 ft-lbs ones) were very difficult to break, I’m 6’ 200lbs for a reference. - Another note, I bought the mount from Honda with the top triangle aluminum bracket attached. I was able to snake the mount with the bracket into place, saving a little time. I didn’t fully remove the bracket that holds the brake lines either. - The hardest bolt to remove was on the backside of the mount. The mixture of brake, AC, and power steering lines made it tough to get to it.

[@sonnydelossantos2583]

Awesome stuff, man. Your videos saved me loads of cash because it gave me the confidence to work on my Civic. Hoping you can also do a video on how to replace the fuel filter / fuel strainer for this same vehicle.

[@lazertag720]

I just finished this repair and i want to say that it was the biggest pain in the rear, bigdog your tutorial was amazing and you explained things really well, it was 10/10, now the issues i experienced during this repair was that the mounting bracket bolt which also comes with the new motor mount did not want to fit in all the way, no matter what i tried it refused to go in, yet it came out very easy when i removed the bracket to fit new motor mount back in, after that the bolt flat out did not want to go in, so i attempted to tighten it as hard as i could and ended up damaging the brand new engine mount, the top part of the mount started spinning and its not supposed to do that, now i left it like that as the screw was still tight and the bracket did not move even though the screw was not all the way in, next bolt issue was the bolt on the torque rod, the one that has the small bracket fit in just fine, now the one next to it(closer to the engine) also refuses to go in all the way, i managed to tighten it up to the proper torque but the screw only went half of the way in, so again i left it like that. A quick tip is, when aligning the mount bracket, make sure to lift the engine up, if you lifted it too high, bring it down a bit(slowly) and it will align perfectly, dont be afraid to push and pull the engine to align it, i had to do that and had no choice, if you aligned the 2 holes of the engine to the bracket but the 3rd one doesnt align, again push and pull the engine to align it, if it aligns for a moment and the engine moves itself back misaligning it, lower the engine a bit, and try pulling and pushing it again, the weight would cause it to stay aligned once you align it. Now i want to point out that my issues with the bolts had nothing to do with how my engine or bracket was aligned, i literally removed the entire mount again and attempted to put the bolt by itself back in without the bracket and it just didnt want to go in all the way, yet somehow it goes right in perfectly on my old mount with the new screw, now after i finished putting everything back together and leaving the 2 bolts tight but not in all the way and also the new mount possibly damaged, i started my car to absolutely no more shaking, i took a drive across the highway and my car was as smooth as a new car, i have never felt my car so smooth, even a possibly broken new mount with the main bracket screw not in all the way and the one torque rod screw half way in, my car still feels like new, now the torque rods job is to prevent engine movement back and forth, so having 1 bolt in half way doesnt affect it since the engine doesnt move up and down because the mount prevents that, now the bracket mount bolt was tight enough and the bracket was tight and did not move so i can say that it seemed safe to leave it that way(though i dont recommend it) but i had no choice, and its not my fault that the stupid bolt just decided to not fit all the way, brand new bolt that came in with the engine mount. So theres my story

[@BigDog50001]

Lining up new engine mount bolts can be a pain sometimes, thanks for the input!

[@flg4337]

Thank you. I had the same experience and your comments gave me the confidence to wrestle the engine until the bolt holes would line up. I thought for sure it would come off the jack because I was pulling so hard to the front and passenger side.

[@tedh35]

This is probably the best car repair video I have ever seen on any YT channel. Thanks VERY much for this well done video.

[@BigDog50001]

I appreciate the comment, thank you!

[@itsraheem]

How or why would someone dislike this video. Literally the best instruction video ever

[@BigDog50001]

I appreciate the comment, thank you!

[@indiomonk123]

Thanks for the video! Really helps us 8th gen owners. Is anyone going to say how clean that engine is being 13 years old when this was released? Kudos to you! I am going to do this job in a week.

[@tabbieperalta6411]

Well done! and explained all the detail of the work .Keep up the good work and you help lot's people to fixed their own Honda Civic . Thank you!

[@BigDog50001]

I appreciate the comment, thanks!

[@jameswalker1210]

Extremely detailed, thorough, helpful, well explained, & filmed tutorial. Much favor, fist bumps, & love, thanks!

[@ggranja1234]

Great at explaining,. Thanks for those tips. I would've gone crazy and lose it 👍

[@TBezak]

Approaching vibration zone, on mine one, and thank to you I know what to do. Many thanks for very detailed video with part numbers.

[@sanityone649]

One of the best videos on youtube. Thanks. Torque is important. I see a lot of guys, including some professionals, that either don't apply torque correctly, or just, in the name of profit and time...don't torque at all, or only those items they deem necessary. Why they think they're better than the engineers that designed the fastening system, you got me.

[@BigDog50001]

Thanks for the comment!

[@danieljasonhanf]

Experience man, if you've never turned wrenches you have no point of reference. But after a few years, you just you know what 12 Nm feels like

[@TheLostAdventuress]

Wow this is a game changer. I just bought new motor mounts 40k ago and i did this mod before re ordering a paid and wiw it works great

[@lethaltechnique6148]

Just changed my mount thanks to this video and saved a lot of money follow his instructions step by step and don’t skip steps like I did it will save you a lot of time and brain cells.

[@BigDog50001]

👍

[@machineman6498]

👍 most rust free engine compartment I’ve seen. Thank you for the details on engine to bracket line up. Trying to complete a repair now.

[@BigDog50001]

Arizona is awesome!

[@jespe2552]

This is fantastic. I really appreciate your video. I need this particular mount changed eventually, and I think I'll be able to do it myself from watching this video.

[@joedominick7517]

Big Dog as usual an excellent detailed video! Thanks for the helpful hints.

[@BigDog50001]

Thank you!

[@doomedronin1148]

Excellent video. Thanks for taking the time to put it together. Format was fantastic. It’s like we’re there next to you being instructed and the correct way. Thanks again!

[@roccos7642]

Great Video - very well done!! You're a Master Mechanic AND a Master Instructor!

[@BigDog50001]

Thanks!

[@cliffordwhittaker7675]

Just finished the repair. Couldn't have been easier thanks to your help.

[@BigDog50001]

Glad it was helpful, thanks for watching!

[@isramen4756]

Thanks for that last tip at the end my mechanic replaced the mounts and it still kept vibrating i kept complaining but he didn't know what to do ):

[@martinmoffitt4702]

nice video..Great to see the use of OEM parts and Hardware..just did a 2007 EX with5 sp. ALL mounts...someone had replaced the rt.main/upper/rubber/assy. (reinstalled the old "uppr. torque rod")with Non OEM and the thing failed after 30k . it caused the other mounts to stress and it was best to replace everything...NOT CHEAP..for OEM but well worth the investment!!! Like a new car "Smooth as silk" Thanks again be safe out there!

[@BigDog50001]

OEM is typically the best way to go but sometimes aftermarket is the only option unfortunately. Thanks for the comment!

[@shahrukhjee]

Simply the best I've seen on KZbin. Thank you, you're awesome. God bless you

[@BigDog50001]

Thank you!

[@lazertag720]

Another quick tip,is, according to the repair manual i have, you DO NOT need to have your engine supported at all when ONLY changing the upper torque rod, that means that if you are doing both jobs such as engine mount and upper torque rod, after finishing installing the new engine mount and finally torquing the bracket to the engine and mount, you can now remove the jack supporting the engine before installing the upper torque rod, in my experience when i left the engine supported while installing the torque rod, the bolts refused to properly line up, now fast forward 3 weeks later, i replaced my upper torque rod and did not have to support the engine, and this time the bolts lined up and screwed in perfectly with no trouble. This only applies to torque rod. Please support engine with block of wood and a jack when removing engine mounts.

[@carolchia1001]

Thank you for such an informational tutorial 👍👍 I can tell you really did your research, which is unfortunately few and far between on KZbin. Earned a like and a subscriber today

[@izzycamaro]

Thanks a lot Big Dog, now I can do our Civic mounts. Have a wonderful day.

[@manyakus8919]

Thank you for this video. I followed your instructions and changed the engine mount. I must say that you need to loose up the mount bracket so you can align the two holes on the engine. Sliding the stud is easy but putting the other bolt and making sure its all aligned is another story. You must be super careful as you could easily cross thread if the bracket isn't aligned correctly. It is better that you remove the one bolt that hold the bracket to the engine mount, then install the bracket to the engine (hand tight) then you can fiddle with the engine (move it while standing on the jack) to align the bracket to the engine mount. It all depends how you are holding the engine from below, if you are at an angle then the holes will not match. The vibration at throttle decel is now gone and transition between accel and decel is way better. You must change the bolts, even if you think they are still good, they have a special coating on them so they don't seize up on aluminum thread.

[@naraldanelson3976]

This guy kills it with common sense and pragmatics which inadvertently comes out as humorous..🤣🤔🤗😶🤨

[@ega0117]

You have a lot of automotive tools especially you can’t buy them from a local store..... I believe those are snap on?? Guessing you are a certified mechanic. Thanks for your video 👍

[@BigDog50001]

Thank you for the comment!

[@muhammadtai4972]

Awesome!! There's no gap between the bracket and the bottle mounting on my car. Mechanic mentioned that the mounting needs to be replaced. There's also a squeak coming when driving the car. Could the failed mounting be the reason for that squeak? Do failed top engine mountings cause squeak noises when driving straight?

[@trekshogun]

Excellent video,I have a mk8 civic and even though doesn't need doing,just nice to see it being done!very professional

[@BigDog50001]

Thank you, I appreciate the comment!

[@45kingofkings]

I have the exact same car. I ordered the “genuine” engine mount part from eBay that came from Japan. At first glance of the box looks legit with the Honda sticker but I believe the red fonts look a bit less bolder than yours and is missing a the point in between “03”. You can also see two small rips that are on one side of the box corners. The brown tape wasn’t sealed they just but the clear tape over it. Opened it and I see Japanese newspaper wrap around the part which was tightly fitted. The bottom of the mount is what cause the rips on the corners of the box. It has both parts, the metal plate and the mount itself from just looking at it doesn’t have major imperfections but I did notice that your plate on the video and the Amazon plate picture has a “S - 3”. Mine says “S - 4”. Another thing since these have oil inside aren’t I suppose to hear the guild moving around when I shake it?! Other than that great video definitely following this once I verify this! Meantime I’ll follow your introductions w/ replacing power steering fluid 🙏🏼

[@johntran7321]

hello the master machine, as a person that not understand about cars at all like me, first thing i need help is how many mounts in this car and how do i know that which one was bad so i can be replace the right one, thank you very much , great job.

[@NaturallyFitNow82]

Thanks for the lesson sir! Doing mine right now in 2020. Shalauuam(peace in paleo Hebrew)!

[@BigDog50001]

👍

[@larryh.5229]

To do a good job ya need the right tools. Thanks for the informative video, good job. 👍 Very thorough.

[@BigDog50001]

Thank you, I appreciate the comment!

[@declar1]

according to the manual, before tightening the bolts, loosen the transmission mounting and the lower push-pull rod. tighten the right cushion, then the transmission mounting and lower push-pull rod. otherwise vibration may occur

[@rmatt53]

My noise was the tensioner being lose, be sure to check if its vibrating and making the noise before you go replacing the engine mounts like me. I was able to put a stick on the tensioner bold and felt the vibrations, can't believe I didn't think of that before.

[@miriamvivo4279]

Nuetralizing the engine mounts good to know

[@izzycamaro]

BIG DOG, You are the best!

[@BigDog50001]

Thanks 👍!

[@arthurfricchione8119]

Dave another good video. Oh and by the way, once I had that extra cup of coffee the drive CV axle popped right out. Dave, I just found out that Honda changed the oil spec on my 99 3.0 Honda engine from 5w30 to 5w20. Thought it was a misprint but I Emailed them and they confirmed it that 99 Honda 3.0s now use 5w20. Well, at least now both my Hondas 3.5 and 3.0 use the same oil. Who knew. ❤️️

[@BigDog50001]

Yeah they changed it so that many of the older models can take either weight, I usually stick with what is on the oil cap but you can't really go wrong either way. Glad you got it fixed!

[@arthurfricchione8119]

I'll stick with what is on the oil cap. No sense changing now. It says 5w30 it gets 5w30. It's like my coffee I stick with what works lol 👍

[@fernandoromero9004]

Excelente video me sirvió mucho, arreglé mi carro, aparte me ayudo para conseguir la herramienta correcta, tengo una pregunta, tienes los otros videos para los otros soportes?

[@fernandoromero9004]

I forget to tell you, you are the best doing this, teaching and fixing, thanks master

[@BigDog50001]

👍

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Some nice tools you used also

[@BrianChambersUnique319]

Absolutely fantastic video! Wow. Impressive! Thank you!

[@BigDog50001]

Thanks for the comment!

[@mjk9674]

Excellent detail, thank you for all the specific part numbers and advice. Love your channel!

[@TheDisgruntledMechanic]

Can't wait to get my Honda!

[@BigDog50001]

I'm holding my breath!! lol

[@Dada-gk9ic]

Dont.. Save yourself on all the headaches lol

[@ryani5103]

I did this on my 07’ Civic and the car rides AND shifts smoother so replace the torque rod! NOTE - also replace the two bolts holding the main mount to the frame with new ones. Mine were stretched and rusted to the point where one sheered in the frame while trying to remove it so be aware! It was obvious the bolts weren’t replaced by the last person to replace this mount.

[@BigDog50001]

👍

[@eranisrael5754]

Awesome Repair Video. Thank you for doing it!

[@BigDog50001]

I appreciate the comment, thank you!

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Them gear wrench set of long ratcheting wrenches is nice

[@BigDog50001]

I do like them a lot, very nice set.

[@fordon20s]

Thank you for the video, I’ll be replacing mine soon. Do you know what the torque specs are for the lower torque mount? The one by the oil pan?

[@s.j.5850]

At least you got the wrench back! Sometimes they get lost down there!

[@BigDog50001]

👍

[@EstebanMeza-h5y]

Thank you so much! This video was very helpful

[@BigDog50001]

Glad it was helpful, thanks for watching!

[@belaschrys]

Very good video but how do I know which Mount is bad

[@BigDog50001]

Visual inspection is usually best. I did a video on diagnosing this one: kzbin.info/www/bejne/moOrqoVnobSrbZI

[@american4427]

Excellent video, how much would be approximately the cost in parts and labor in total for honda civic...?

[@brantcompany]

Thank you your very clear on showing the process

[@BigDog50001]

👍

[@rafaelhernandez-lk8jm]

you sould also invlude the after fix engine mount load test to see the difference from before

[@billymarques8168]

Great vid,you work good and explain well,keep them coming

[@davec6914]

You are very organized with the way you work. Thumbs up! 👍 Just subscribed and smashed that bell notification.

[@BigDog50001]

Awesome, thanks and welcome!

[@Kons213]

Thanks so much man! My Civic is going on a third loop, just passed 205,000 miles, and I used your videos to do most of the maintenance! You're a legend man. P.S. Any chance you could make a video on how to replace timing chain on 8th gen Civic? Don't need it yet, but there's not a single video on youtube how to do it, and it's a hell of a job for a regular DIY noob like me to attempt it.

[@BigDog50001]

Those cam chains are fairly reliable as long as the oil is changed regularly and the oil level is properly maintained. If I ever get one that needs it I will try and film it. Thanks for the comment!

[@Kons213]

Big Dog50001 Automotive thanks for replying! I’ve been changing oil (synthetic) like clockwork every 7k miles, but! I work as an Uber driver part time while in school, and drive about a thousand miles a week doing it, plus other commutes and so on. I figure the chain has to stretch out at some point, after this many miles? I mean Honda is amazing, but just how amazing really? Lol Anyway, do you know if tensioner has any sensor to let the owner know the chain stretched out too much and is about to jump? And, apart from listening for rattle, is there any way to find out if something is wrong with it (the chain)? Thanks again!

[@BigDog50001]

Just remember, good oil at the *proper level* will generally prevent chain issues. There is no sensor that monitors the tensioner itself. What happens is the cam and crank will get out of sync and it can set a Cam/Crank signal correlation code. If a cam chain or timing belt skips a tooth it will run very poorly (if at all) and can also set a MAP sensor code, as seen in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/n2OZeZ-Ker6lbpo.

[@ronethridge9875]

fantastic job/are you in texas/thanks much

[@tonyzee1195]

Best video out there for this job, thank you sir

[@BigDog50001]

I appreciate the comment, thanks!

[@fabio102]

Your video was very helpful, thank you so much for sharing this!

[@BigDog50001]

No problem 👍!

[@KOSIAK100]

What Milwaukee impact driver was that

[@columbia1991]

THANK YOU! I made the mistake of leaving on the mount because the factory unit came that way. Wow was it hard getting the other parts in! I also reused the old bolts because my local Honda Specialist shop told me they always reuse the bolts and never had issues (been open for over 20 years). Is there a reason why Hond wants you to replace the bolts? I'll check the torque in a couple weeks just in case. Great detailed video!

[@BigDog50001]

I believe Honda recommends replacing nuts/bolts on certain applications due to possible damage and wear due to heat/vibration/corrosion etc.

[@eldorado111]

I've heard someone say the bolts are 'torque to yield', for those that don't know, it means the bolts stretch to the right tension and maintain it accordingly.. Im happy to take the advice of the 20yr veteran Honda mechanic and re-use. On a cylnder head however, you just wouldn't run that risk.. But these are accessible if anything happens so yeah.. Thanks for the video!

[@dilanthaheshan7232]

Well explained with tightening torques 🙏🏾

[@BigDog50001]

👍

[@alexbrunson5566]

Excellent job & video thanks! Bill B, Charleston SC.

[@scottmagyar]

Sir , Great video, i have quick question i used your link to buy the honda mount it came today in Honda box from Japan , How do you tell its a real Honda part. My orginal mount have a big part number on it this one doesn't . Thks

[@columbia1991]

Great video! Is there an explanation why some of the bolts need replacing? Thanks

[@BigDog50001]

Just what Honda recommends, most likely based on the amount of torque/stress/heat/vibration etc the bolts/nuts are expected to see during their lifespan. Thanks for the comment!

[@Joey.9]

Great informative video. I'm about to do this particular job and had one question. Are the torque levels the correct specifications to Honda?

[@BigDog50001]

I get my torque specs right from Honda service information.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Didnt realize big dog bro you were 65 miles from me lol here in florence Az

[@mikea5205]

Hey whats up man I need this done and I don't know who to take it to I'm in Scottsdale AZ. You know anyone up here willing to do the work? I don't trust my car with the Honda dealer or any shops (very bad experiences). I have the same car 2006 Civic Ex coupe auto.

[@miriamvivo4279]

Doing 1995 honda odyssey head rebuld what rebuild kit would you recommend. Odyssey has 300,000 miles on it . Looking at enginetech, felpro, evergreen etc oem beyond my budget. Great video as usual using wifeys ipad

[@BigDog50001]

I generally only like to use OEM for that stuff but I do like Fel-Pro, they make pretty good products. Thanks for the comment!

[@victorchiong5239]

do you have a video on the test where you push the brakes and accelration on a fix rubber mount?

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Great repair brother

[@BigDog50001]

Thanks!

[@smeg8557]

PLEASE HELP!! My motor mount is broken, I get vibration and a grinding noise. I thought the motor mount was the top rubber part you removed, mine is cracked but not sure if I have to replace the whole bottom hydraulic piece or just the broken rubber mount thing.

[@KOSIAK100]

Do you have links to the tools you used for this video

[@BigDog50001]

Here you go, I updated the links to include tools! Milwaukee M12 3/8" Ratchet: amzn.to/2Ll5rbJ Milwaukee M18 Impact Wrenches: amzn.to/2MXN0vB GearWrench Ratchets: amzn.to/2Ljk4MA Sunex 1/2" Impact Sockets: amzn.to/2LiR6N1 Sunex 3/8" Impact Sockets: amzn.to/2Ll99SH GearWrench XL Flex Wrenches: amzn.to/2LmIuoB Telescoping Magnet: amzn.to/2MTXP1O GearWrench 3/8" and 1/4" Sockets: amzn.to/2NOKac8 GeaWrench 1/2" Sockets: amzn.to/2LiTGTd GearWrench 3/8" Extension Set: amzn.to/2ZL26Xh Snap-On Torque Wrench: bit.ly/2TzsaU0 Astro 40SL Light: amzn.to/2ZPtfsi Daytona Jack (cheaper at Harbor Freight): amzn.to/2UDpR2V

[@peperendon2709]

thanks so much for this video helped a lot, great explanation, two thumps up!!!

[@BigDog50001]

Thanks 👍!

[@lizhodge2087]

I have a 2009 Honda Civic. Do I need to replace all of the engine mounts at the same time or can I replace them one at a time? Thanks!

[@scottbryant7090]

Thank you! Why not neutralize the mounts before you torque them to spec?

[@BigDog50001]

I have not seen an issue with these so typically don't do it unless I find there is a vibration issue after. All engine mounts would have to be loosened and then re-torqued after neutralizing them. Thanks for the comment!

[@johnnygomz2819]

Bravo 👏 👏👏👏👏 sr good job i’m looking forward to do it on my car 2006 Honda Civic thank you ✌️

[@BigDog50001]

👍

[@JACteam]

Thank you, this helped a lot!

[@BigDog50001]

No problem 👍!

[@kalani1987]

Thanks for the instruction. For the front mount, is it advisable to jack up the car also, or can I just remove the mount?

[@BigDog50001]

You can put a jack (with a piece of wood) under there for safety, but in many cases a jack is not necessary for front mounts unless the nuts/bolts do not line up.

[@chlittle4165]

Question, I this something that should be done at a certain mileage for preventative maintenance or should we wait until the absolutely need to be replaced?

[@peterchang7646]

With the relatively low torque values on those bolts.... I really doubt they need to be replaced... There won't be any stretch in any of those...

[@simplemind872]

Can you use the after market part for this engine mount? Thank you.

[@RibeyeSusie]

Great vid! Great work!

[@Usmanthemecano]

Nice shiny tools! Great tips

[@BigDog50001]

Thanks!

[@anavantasian]

WoW men, really nice, I just bought 3 mounts without the bolts :( for a Civic 2008 EXS (brazil made), I just ordered the bolts to get it done, now I need those tools too hahahaha, Im replacing also the lower torque rod, is it easier or more complex installation than this ones?

[@BigDog50001]

The lower torque rod one is easier, the bolts on it should also be replaced when changing it. Thanks for the comment!

[@anavantasian]

@@BigDog50001 Thanks men, I'm cancelling the order to buy those ones, just to check, they are just 3 bolts right? 2 of Part No.: 90168-S5A-000 (Bolt, Flange (12X35)) and 1: Part No.: 90165-SNA-A00 (Bolt, Flange (14X93))?? thank you for all civic videos and dedication

[@BigDog50001]

The 1.8L engines like the vehicle in this video should have 3 bolts on the lower torque rod mount (and if I remember correctly the K20 engines only have 2 bolts). I would verify with a Honda dealer on the part numbers to be sure.

[@cesarboone4404]

Excellent video 👍🏻

[@fa6151]

Hi, I need help if you don't mind. . When I am driving suddenly the car shuts oof with any engine warring or something.. For example when I slow down or when I take a turn.. It happened many times.

[@AnnoyedPegasus-bt7lr]

When the engine drops does it affect the connection to the transmission?

[@tomerlevinzon4971]

Dear Big Dog, What is the part # of the big stud that screwed into the engine.. mine broke.. and i can't find this part anywhere...?

[@eduardomejia1006]

I see that the part number is 50820-SNA-P01. Is it the same fit on the coupe style?