Honda CT 110 Postie Clutch Repair - How to Fix A Slipping Clutch.

Is your CT 110 clutch slipping or not engaging smoothly? Want to fix it yourself but unsure of what's involved? In this video we strip a CT 110 clutch & show step by step how to reassemble & some common faults to watch out for. Giving you the confidence to tackle this simple job yourself.

[@cavekritter1]

Best sounding workshop ever!!

[@Free_Ranger_CT110]

Thanks Trevor, I started making videos outside for the natural light, but the birds, lambs, etc were an unexpected bonus.

[@LittleRedRoosterADV]

A great little video that helps demystify another part of the workings of the mighty CT110.

[@Free_Ranger_CT110]

Thanks Phil, I'd seen lots of videos showing friction plate replacement, but very little on the main clutch springs etc. Glad you enjoyed it & I hope other CT owners find it helpful in the battle to keep their bikes alive.

[@danceroomballer]

Used this tutorial to discover that the last person to work on the clutch of my newly-acquired 71 CT90 had sandwiched the two small clutch springs between a couple of the plates. Once corrected, the slippage was much diminished. There was no thrust washer, so I will have to investigate that. I also have to find out what is the minimum length of the main clutch spring. If it is 26 as you say, mine are all too small. When re-installing the screws through the outer clutch into the drive plate, I found that putting a small block underneath allowed me to push the outer clutch plate further down, making the job a little easier. Thank you so much for this video, and all your others. They are a great quality and a tremendous help.

[@Free_Ranger_CT110]

Thanks for your comment, glad the videos are helpful. I double checked in the Honda manual, it says main clutch springs are 27mm standard & replace when under 26mm. Also in the manual can't see any thrust washer fitted to the ct90, all ct90 clutch I've stripped do not have one, but the ct110 does. Giving the steel plates a light rub with fine emery paper to deglaze them can help reduce/eliminate slipping. Synthetic oil can cause slippage too. Thanks, hope this helps.

[@perpetualmoto]

great explaination of the CT clutch - saved for later.

[@Free_Ranger_CT110]

Thanks Brad I saw plenty of videos showing plate replacement but few showed the centrifugal part of the clutch & main clutch springs. Decided to make a video. Thanks for your support.

[@beachthor1]

Dang I had no idea about those screws and JIS. I stripped most of those. Gonna have to get a JIS bit

[@Free_Ranger_CT110]

Yeah, I bought a reversible JIS screwdriver & bits for my impact driver. Worth buying if you work on old Japanese bikes. Most JIS screws can be ID'd by a small dot or center punch mark on the head.

[@tiolibikes8663]

Thanks again I didn’t know there was any other standard than Philips head and spinning the clutch backwards 👍

[@Free_Ranger_CT110]

Yes, these vintage Japanese bike have JIS screws which look similar to phillips. I've now bought myself a screwdriver set & some bits for the impact driver. I could never understand why the heads would get damaged so easily. JIS Japanese Industry Standard. Usually the screw head has a small dot on the head indicating it's JIS. All the best.

[@tiolibikes8663]

Ah I have seen that dot often enough never thought to much of it now I know thanks 😊

[@PSBEadventures]

Great video! I recently picked up a flawless 1980 110. I've worked on these engines for 30 or so years and this one has an issue I haven't really ran into as bad before. As you know, sometimes the one way part of the clutch might not grab on the first kick and you have to kick it again. This particular one is pretty bad and I just about have to roll start it to crank it. I will say the more I ride it the better it gets. It only has like 1500mi on it. I did fresh oil on it and have put a few miles on it. It's way better when it's hot. When it's cold, sometimes the overrun part of the clutch just won't catch. I may grab some springs and fibers for it but wanted to ask exactly what part of the inside does that one way part. Thanks again man, subbed!!

[@Free_Ranger_CT110]

thanks for the sub. When I bought my bike it hadn't been used for several years & also the clutch slipped & I couldn't kickstart it. I stripped the clutch & deglazed the steel plates with wet n dry paper. Fitted new friction plates & the clutch worked fine after that. The clutch centre has a helical gear that is part of the auto clutch & could be sticking.

[@PSBEadventures]

@Free Ranger CT110 okay great! I think someone may of used car oil in this one so probably needs fibers anyways. Much appreciated man.

[@kevinhurt9742]

I was wondering if you tried deglazing the friction discs before replacing them? My bike has been sitting along time and slips when kicking sometimes but the discs look fine.

[@PSBEadventures]

@@kevinhurt9742 I haven't torn into mine just yet. It's gotten way better the more I ride it

[@jimkalfakis9893]

I did a brand new clutch, still no reverse. It slips in reverse. It works on the stand but slips with weight on the bike. I’ve taken it apart numerous times. The linkage looks good. I’m lost. Any idea?

[@Free_Ranger_CT110]

Hi I've not worked on bikes with reverse gear, but assuming the auto clutch is the same as the CT110 clutch. Did you change the steel clutch plates? If not, deglaze them with fine wet n dry paper, check they aren't warped & check the main clutch springs. Is it adjusted correctly? It's possible to overwind the adjuster & cause problems. What oil are you using? Some oil has additives which can cause a wet clutch to slip. Hope this helps.

[@jimkalfakis9893]

@@Free_Ranger_CT110 thanks for the reply. The clutch assembly is brand new. Yes it is adjusted correctly. I’m using 10w40 wet clutch atv oil. Maybe I’ll try deglazing the steel’s. I don’t know. Thank you

[@Free_Ranger_CT110]

@jimkalfakis9893 seems you've done everything right, maybe the clutch can't handle the high ratio in reverse. Heavy duty springs if they're available. If the clutch only slips in reverse, then it's a good chance it's a gear fault, dogs broken off etc. But that would be mechanically noisy & metal in the oil.

[@j.arthurlearned7696]

I recently purchased a '79 CT90 with 1400 original miles and a '84 CT110 with 1100 original miles. My question is: Even though the CT110 has low miles, it is very hard to shift, especially from first to second. Is this a problem because the bike sat for so many years, and even though it looks brand new, the clutch plates have "bonded" (or rusted) somewhat together from non-use? I would think a bike with such low miles would have zero issues, except maybe for stale gas clogging the carb or tires decomposing from uv rays.

[@Free_Ranger_CT110]

Try adjusting the clutch, that may help but as you said, I also think it's probably due to lack of use. Have you tried putting the bike on the ctr stand, engine off, rotate the rear wheel by hand & try the gear shift. If it's OK the problem is clutch drag (not disengaging correctly) Envious of the two nice bikes you picked up, low mileage bikes are very rare here in Oz..

[@j.arthurlearned7696]

@@Free_Ranger_CT110 Thanks for your reply. I followed your instructional video on how to adjust the clutch and that didn't help. What exactly happens when there is "lack of use"? Does that cause "clutch drag"? Heading to garage now to rotate rear wheel, per you advice. Strange, but I've come across a lot of "low mileage" bikes, here on the west coast of America. Seems as though many people bought them back in the day and they ended up sitting in the garage, or sadly outdoors (after only a thousand miles of riding) for 40 years, or more. (Note: went to garage and turned the rear wheels on both the 110 and 90 and then shifted each. Both felt the same...shifted relatively easily. What does that mean?)

[@Free_Ranger_CT110]

@@j.arthurlearned7696 it's simply the clutch plates are stuck together, fresh oil & use the bike. Checking the shifting rotating the wheel means there's nothing wrong with the gearbox or selector mech, it's a sticking clutch. At such low mileage it's unlikely to be wear on the clutch opersting mech. It should cure itself, if not dismantle the clutch & deglaze the plates.

[@j.arthurlearned7696]

@@Free_Ranger_CT110 Double thank you.💯

[@Free_Ranger_CT110]

@@j.arthurlearned7696 glad to help, hope you fix the bike & enjoy riding & working on both of them.