Excellent presentation, perfectly easy to follow! Two questions please - I am following your great videos to remove, replace the clutch disks, and reinstall the clutch assembly: does the clutch adjustment need to be changed or backed off because of the new clutch disks? And did the bike need to be in neutral to carry out this operation (hope not)? Thanks for a great video, really makes it clear!

How do you check the clutch pack and where would I order the new steel plates and friction plated?

I was wondering if I could tell you the symptoms my ct110 has and you tell me what you think is happening over the you're KZbin Chanel or would you prefer email?

My brother has a 1969 CT90, and the motorcycle runs rich with the air mixture screw adjusted all the way it still runs rich, and I was wondering if the pilot jet is the culprit And if it needs to be a smaller size pilot jet.

I wish I could find somebody that lived near me. That knew how to fix the ct110 motorbikes like you can. Not to rush, but I've been checking your channel every day to watch your latest video on the Ct 90. You've been overhauling.

Is the pilot jet for a ct110 interchangeable for a CT90 at all possible?

I like watching. Your videos, good common sense approach. And you help me fix my carb. You're not wasting your time.

Thanks for sharing!

Thank you for video..🎉 mate…

Don't see anything to complain about. Looks like a good hone job.

Good advice as always mate

I may be doing something like this with a Honda clone I’m saving for. It’s like a clone of the old Super 90. I’m hoping to swap a more powerful 190 or 212cc pit bike engine in and considering that it would be able to go like 80 after swapping to a ~20hp engine, it’s probably a good idea to upgrade the suspension

Poor man's torque wrench. This is awesome.

Useful! Thank you. 👍

Really useful video and very clear... thank you. I'm considering fitting one of these engines into a 1970 C90E

Helped a lot, cheers mate 👍

Appreciate the knowledge, yr teaching me a lot about my ct110. Thanks 😊

Thankyou for another great video!

my sub transmission pops out of high gear when under full load. Any ideas what might be causing this?

Was this in winter? Great vid

Your videos have been a life saver! I've been able to adjust my clutch, change my stator, and figure out so much more about the CT110s from your videos! Also your drive videos are awesome too! Love to see the adventures people can take on them! Keep up the awesome work!

Great video buddy ride safe

Are parts easy to come by?

Good video - lighting was bad at all. Too bad my CT90 has a Chinese clone. Best.

Love the content and you're not wasting your time. Professional quality well ok lighting etc but nice to hear your local birds and dogs. Thanks again!

Mine does this too after replacing the rectifyer regulator. Great vid

Thanks mate. Just did mine :)

I just put a 12v bulb in mine it's only a little dimmer problem solved it never blows 👍

Hi - this is a bit off topic so please feel free to ignore, but I'm wondering if you can help with advice. I acquired a 1984 CT110 a few days ago. It is in very good shape. When I ride it at 35MPh or below (55kph) it functions perfectly. However, if I take it to a speed like 45MPH (70kph) around full throttle , it can only hold that speed for about 15 seconds, and then it starts lunging like it is out of gas, and will eventually stall if I don't back (way) off the throttle. My initial though was it was not getting enough gas and the bowl was running dry. I thought it might be vapor lock, so I basically rode it without the gas cap on and the same thing happened. I then verified that both the main fuel and reserve line basically free-flow gas when removed from the petcock. I checked the filter in the petcock and it was not clogged (the carb is new and looks like an original OEM carb.) I even took off the petcock valve and verified it was not clogged. Also, the air filter was completely decayed and caked on the main air cartridge - I'm shocked the bike ran. Anyway, I removed (scrapped off) the air filter and just ran with the cartridge so the bike was getting plenty of air - but I still had the same problem - bike can only run about 15 seconds at full throttle before it bucks like it is out of gas. I don't think it is ignition because I can run it say in 2nd gear at very high revs for an extended period of time (as long as I'm not near full throttle). It has CDI (electronic ignition). So I'm baffled. It just seems like the bike needs more fuel than the carb can provide. My only remaining guesses are 1) the main jet is either too small or partially clogged (but why would the bike run perfectly at full throttle for 15 seconds if this is the case?) , or 2) the float is set to low and the bowl isn't filing to the correct level (but the carb is new and it seems unlikely the float was set wrong from the factory. And even so, this seem like it would just let me ride at full throttle a few extra seconds and would not let me ride "constantly" at full throttle.) Any ideas before I take apart the carb? This can't be normal and the bike runs so well below 35mph it must be something that can be fixed. Thanks in advance for any ideas you might have on what to check. Best.

Thanks for another helpful video! The only thing I have to work out now is when/how to tension the flywheel :)

I recently purchased a '79 CT90 with 1400 original miles and a '84 CT110 with 1100 original miles. My question is: Even though the CT110 has low miles, it is very hard to shift, especially from first to second. Is this a problem because the bike sat for so many years, and even though it looks brand new, the clutch plates have "bonded" (or rusted) somewhat together from non-use? I would think a bike with such low miles would have zero issues, except maybe for stale gas clogging the carb or tires decomposing from uv rays.

Best sounding workshop ever!!

Sir what brand and part number and where did you buy it from? Thanks.

Muchas gracias

Just did mine. Wish had access to all the 12v posties in the US, looks like a 125M from a 3 wheeler is the best option for 12v and e start. Great vid, always a pleasure.

Thank you very clearly explained

Started a mini freakout when you mentioned the two other thrust washers…. My 1973 does not have those whew !

I dropped one of the Phillips screws down in the hole by the pump and I can’t seem to get it out. It’s like it’s lost.

I tried replacing my chain and it didn’t go that easy. My cam kept getting like it was tight as heck to even sat in there. It was so stiff the chain.

Thanks a million, Mr. Free Ranger that will help me torqueing up the cylinder head of my Honda GX160 generator engine

Great video ride safe

Ahh - this head looks to be in much better shape than the original. Thanks for posting - very good video. (But we didn't get to see the fun of compressing the spring and getting the valve keepers. I sure it went off without any problems....) - Thank you.

thank you

Excellent video as always Darrin! Top shelf!

Great video, well explained and to the point.👍

a very minor point, but just to note that the large clutch set ring on some of the C90/CT90 clutches fitted in the 1960s only have one "ear" (I realise yours may have been broken, but just mentioning it in case others worry that their's is too). I'm really enjoying the videos, many thanks for doing them!

What size of sleeve anchor bolt is that?

Thanks for another interesting video, looking forward to the assembly too.

I have a '68 KO CT-90, sticky shifting. Probably needs shift drum stopper replacement. These Honda engine/clutch/transmissions are all very similar. Ingenious, complicated and quirky requiring some JIS tools, reference documentation, and experience and luck sourcing parts.