Honda Fit Starter Replacement

Honda Fit Starter replaced in a 2008 model. Whew! Hard to get at and the manual is a bit incorrect.
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[@nationaliste007]

What....did I press repair a guitar

[@Usmanthemecano]

I just did this job today. Most difficult part was the b+ cable. The top bolt on the starter can be accessed from the bottom with a swivel and short extension. The bottom bolt is easy. I used my long 17 ratcheting wrench. The b+ requires a long 1/4 ratchet and 12mm shallow socket. Accessible from the bottom. But the boot must be removed. It's a pain. I opted to use long needle nose pliers and ended up tearing into the boot but oh well. Once the b+ terminal is free then you can drop the starter and unplug the signal wire. Oil filter must be removed, dipstick and harness under the intake (2 bolts). Knock sensor harness and another plug on top of the starter must also be removed

[@timmorodgers4271]

This video is great, I’m just about to tackle this job on the Wife’s Honda Jazz and I’m now confident I can do it on the driveway.

[@billrimmer5596]

U r a sharp cookie. I really like your shop. I’m working on 13 Fit that grinds when starting. I put a rebuilt starter in it. I think there should b more of a taper on starter drive gear. I will try a new one from Rock Auto. I don’t want to ruin the gear on the converter. Thank u! I’m gonna check out your vids. I like the u welded the puller bar on the vise grips. I put mine on the adjuster screw. Yours is a better angle.

[@joeshomeshop]

Great video! Thanks for a letting me know what I was getting into. I just finished on my 2007 w/181k miles. With the splash shield off I was able to get at the 17 mm bolt with my impact wrench. I was able to drive the oil filler tube out by pushing on the tab from underneath with a long screwdriver while wiggling from the top with another screwdriver stuck in the tube. I wasn’t able to get a c-shaped wrench on the other (14mm?) mounting bolt, but had to use a low-profile ratchet with a stubby extension. That, a breaker bar, and some penetrating oil got it to move. The oil sensor had to come out, but the socket I bought (24 mm) meant I was able to completely install the new starter and reinstall the oil pressure sensor last. This definitely isn’t a job for an inexperienced DIYer. Wish I’d had a lift, but did okay with ramps. Thanks again, very good video.

[@silveravnt]

I never would have guessed that tool. Pretty cool.

[@indiomonk123]

Awesome tips. I have an 07 with 112k miles. I have a feeling I'm going to have to do this eventually.

[@martincogley]

Thanks so much for this video! I managed to get mine off today without removing the dipstick or the sensor 👍🏼 just unplugged the sensor and it came out fine with some gentle wiggling! 😃

[@peterhofstee4934]

Thanks for the special tool idea for removing the upper bolt. I used a 8mm rod and that appears to be not strong enough and was bending. Eventually I manged to loosen the blot a bit with a rod and 14 mm socket . With a little of bending of front body parts and after that the tool was very useful.

[@gavs0007]

Very helpful, thanks for the detailed explanation step by step.

[@IrocZIV]

Note for others doing a starter. The oils sensor on mine broke off super easy. Didn't even notice it broke during the removal, just saw a spring sticking out of the block where it used to be. Had to order if from a dealer for $40 and is taking 3 days to get....

[@Thomas-jj1zo]

1) for 2009 there are (2) starters listed check which one by going to honda parts and check using car's vin # 2) remove radiator to give some room to swing wrenches 3) remove thermostat cover don't remove thermostat itself to get better access to top 14mm starter bolt 4) LOOSEN clutch slave cylinder this may be needed to remove 17mm starter bolt at bottom, clutch fluid line is in the way of 1/2 socket wrench swing 5) jack up front of car, needed to get at 17 mm bolt 6) you don't have to remove spray shield 7)remove plug to solenoid, doable but there is Honda "barbed wire" for your hands reaching the connector 8) remove bolts top & bottom 9) use rubber hammer, pry bar and WD-40 on where it splits to gently wiggle starter out. takes a while 10) with starter loose you can position it where you can just get at the battery connection under rubber cover. removing rubber cover was difficult even with the pull tab 11) drop starter from below no need to remove dipstick but you have some issues with the AC line from compressor and the dipstick. the trick is using the slot where the solenoid battery connection is CAREFULLY rotate the slot where it hits the dipstick and it give you JUST enough room to drop the starter 12) install is the reverse but would suggest wrapping some masking tape over the rubber battery cover to hold it back from covering the nut you can remove the tape after the nut is tightened. 13) cut tape , soap the rubber cover as lube to install, 14) also had to tape a 3/8 socket u joint to keep it from flopping to get at the top starter bolt but the length was correct

[@mkrp4]

09 is a bit different set up!

[@DGQ1Q2]

O WoW I very appreciate this video and your experience. Good one

[@mkrp4]

These manuals are not written by or for technicians, they are prepared by copy and paste keyboard experts

[@fafadfasfa]

Half moon wretches, obstruction wrenches, or s type wrenches. One of those will be the answer.

[@user-hh1oz4op9r]

A swivel socket will get the top bolt out very easy

[@johnle3819]

Hi Douglas, During your installation of his aftermarket TYC part, did you have to modify the starter in any way? I'm reading a Amazon review and someone said you had to modify a connection from the car side in order to make this part fit? Is this true? Thank you

[@dlunderdahl]

No modification as far as I remember.

[@johnle3819]

@@dlunderdahl thank you for the quick response. I’ll put in an order now. My starter took a crap today at 168k miles. 2007 AT Sport. 🥲

[@JamesBond-xk9zr]

It's been a while, how's that TYC brand starter holding up?

[@dlunderdahl]

Still working fine.

[@heneralsaliksik6242]

Can you share the pdf automobile literature bro? Thanks.

[@ibanez9599]

Is it the same way in a manual transmission version ?

[@medbena1778]

Yes, same thing

[@xxjoshlynnx3595]

Working on my son’s right now

[@adamavelar2691]

How did you know it had to be replaced

[@adamavelar2691]

How did you know you had to replace it ? Mine sounds like my key is stuck after turning it for a second too long

[@dlunderdahl]

It was a few years ago, but if I remember correctly, it didn't retract very well when I released the key. Made a gear crunching sound that was getting worse. Sounds like you have the same problem.

[@adamavelar2691]

@@dlunderdahl ah ok . This fit is giving me similar signs .

[@dondoni4899]

👍👍👍👍👍 what about doing it from top by removing intakes? Would it be easy?

[@dlunderdahl]

Thanks for the thumbs up! The starter is underneath the intake manifold, rather than the exhaust manifold. So it wouldn't make sense to take off any exhaust cover.

[@dondoni4899]

I mean to say intake manifold

[@dlunderdahl]

Not sure how difficult it would be to remove the intake manifold to get access to the starter. Might be a good idea but not sure.

[@kierstena7306]

@@dlunderdahl Hanes manual has a video from the top... looks incredibly detailed

[@Mike-fg5cj]

Swivels!