Honda GL1100 Restoration Intro and Engine Removal

[@bottel01]

I'm taking a motor out of my 1979 gl1000 I knew I did not have to take every thing off the whole bike. this other guy on KZbin made it look like I had to disassemble the whole bike he took the rear tire off and the whole front end off what a waste. You made it look easier. Thanks a lot this is the best video on youtube to show how to take out the motor of a gl1000. And it only took me 15 minutes to learn how to take a motor out. The old shool way would be to take a class at school and spend a waste of time and money 15 minutes class. THANKYOU!!!!:)

[@wreckedemmotorcyclesbikepr8097]

Hi Bottel Esto I’m glad this is helping you and other people too. It’s nice to have some feedback knowing we are doing something right 😊 take care just uploaded the next one 30/12/20

[@artzamora7918]

Thanks for the information it was very helpful, good work.

[@wreckedemmotorcyclesbikepr8097]

Our pleasure 😊

[@tonyk6172]

Great Video Phil. My neutral light comes on every time i pull the clutch, the switch is hidden behind a part of frame on the right hand side. Seeing this engine out process i might live with it :-)

[@wreckedemmotorcyclesbikepr8097]

Thanks for the comments Tony. Have you checked out the micro switch on the lever. I can have a look at the neutral switch on the engine and see how easy it is to work on, or how hard 😊

[@wreckedemmotorcyclesbikepr8097]

Hi Tony I haven’t checked for you yet mate. We spent that long splitting the cases I forgot🤪 I’ll check next time I’m in the container 😊

[@tonyk6172]

@@wreckedemmotorcyclesbikepr8097 Thanks Phil , it looks almost like it needs a special tool

[@wreckedemmotorcyclesbikepr8097]

Hi Tony I’ve had a look at the neutral switch and yes you’re right it’s right hand exhaust off engine mounting bolt off, drain the oil etc. I have taken a picture and once I work out how to upload just a pic on the channel I’ll post it, however make sure it’s that that’s faulty. Easy to do. Get a multi meter set to Continuity make sure the bikes in neutral and the screw in the centre of the switch put one probe and the other probe to Earth doesn’t matter which way around the probes are. You should have continuity. Put it in gear making sure the neutral light is out and you shouldn’t have continuity. If all that is ok it’s not the switch. Hope that helps. With the neutral light being off until you pull the clutch in suggests it might be something else as if it’s in gear you have to pull the clutch in to start anyway. Let me know how you get on. Send me an email.Happy new year by the way .

[@tonyk6172]

@@wreckedemmotorcyclesbikepr8097 Phil, thank you so much. you diagnosed correctly. The neutral switch tested fine, then like you said, I checked the clutch lever switch and that turned out to be the cause, A nice £7, 10 minute fix. Top man !

[@Haydeewaydee]

God I’ve been dreading this moment but it has to be done 😂

[@Haydeewaydee]

Especially when it’s just me removing it 😂

[@wreckedemmotorcyclesbikepr8097]

Just editing the next video and hopefully have that on here at the weekend 6th or 7th November 😊

[@red3376]

good vidio . are you guys still taking questions on this? i have to do the started, like the second stage, after the chain, not just on the side of the motor. im wondering if i can do it without pulling the motor?

[@wreckedemmotorcyclesbikepr8097]

Hi Andrew glad you like the video. I assume your talking about the starter clutch that you need to replace? Yes, We're still taking questions about all the video's I've just been that busy over the last 6 months that I haven't had a chance to carry on renovating the bikes, but I will have a video out in the next few days.

[@wreckedemmotorcyclesbikepr8097]

Hi Andrew, If you look at GL1100 Vlog 3 around 5mins in you'll see that the starter clutch is on the back of the rotor, and I think you will definitely have to take the engine out to get at both the starter clutch and the chain as the whole back casing needs to come off even if you leave the clutch in place. Hope this helps.

[@red3376]

Yes that's what I was afraid of. Thank you

[@wreckedemmotorcyclesbikepr8097]

@@red3376 Sorry mate. Did you look at the other video taking the rear casing off? You can leave the clutch in situ.

[@crazyvoid8002]

Can you help me with mine lol

[@Jeroen-83]

Why do you need to drain the oil?. I must replace the alternator.

[@wreckedemmotorcyclesbikepr8097]

Hi Jeroen, and thanks for the question. We drained the oil for 2 reasons. Firstly because we were going to strip the engine it was easier to drain the oil with the engine in the bike and secondly without the oil in the engine would be a little lighter to lift onto the bench.hope that’s answers the question.

[@Jeroen-83]

@@wreckedemmotorcyclesbikepr8097 thanks voor the reply. Ok i only must replace the alternator 👍🏻

[@Jeroen-83]

Is it required to remove the driveshaft, or is it just disconnect it and leave the axle and rear tire in place?

[@wreckedemmotorcyclesbikepr8097]

@@Jeroen-83 hi Jeroen I will check tomorrow for you when I’m at the workshop

[@wreckedemmotorcyclesbikepr8097]

Hi Jeroen, Have you tested the Alternator/Stator already to make sure that’s the problem and checked the regulator/rectifier too. I can send details re checking the Alternator and there is a full video in the XS1100 trike on how to test the regulator/rectifier. If you need to take the alternator/stator out I think it may be possible to extract it while the engine is in the frame but could be quite difficult to do due to trying to get tools into the rear of the engine next to the frame. The initial test is a multimeter over the battery. With the bike warmed up and running at 3000rpm you should get 14.5volts and 3amps. You should have the headlight on main beam and preferably the battery fully charged. You can email me direct for more in depth information if required too.