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On cold, snowy afternoons in the early-to-mid 1900s, local residents across north-central West Virginia headed for the railroad tracks, waiting patiently at their nearest depot for the trains to arrive from Baltimore. There was precious cargo on the way -- crates of fresh, ice-packed oysters, a seasonal treat delivered straight to communities along the B&O railroad system throughout the “r-months”. Though the trains no longer run through Lost Creek, wintertime oyster traditions still remain strong throughout much of the Mountain State.
Recipe: "Honest" Oyster Stew
Serves 4
16-20 fresh oysters (or one pint of pre-shucked, jar-packed oysters labeled "stewing size")
3 cups whole milk or half and half
1 medium sweet yellow onion, diced
1 medium fennel bulb, chopped
2 large celery stalks, chopped
2 small-to-medium shallots (or one large shallot)
2 medium potatoes, cut into 1/2" cubes
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
4 tablespoons salted butter
3 cloves garlic, minced (optional: brown the whole cloves in butter first)
2 tablespoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon coarse ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper
In a small to medium pot, cover potatoes with hot water and bring to a boil. Add 1 1/2 to 2 teaspoons salt and boil for about 5 minutes until potatoes are tender, not soft and crumbly. Drain potatoes when finished and set aside.
Shuck oysters if still in the shell, or remove pre-shucked oysters from jar, and drain into a colander over a mixing bowl to retain their liquor (the liquid in the shell or the packing juices). Retain at least 1/2 cup of liquor and set aside. Strain liquor if necessary to remove debris.
In a medium-size pot, melt 2 tablespoons of butter over medium heat. Add chopped onion, celery, and fennel, as well as black pepper, cayenne pepper, and 1 teaspoon of remaining salt. Saute for several minutes, until onions are soft and slightly translucent. Add shallots and garlic, then saute for 2 more minutes, or until shallots and onions are slightly golden brown.
Add potatoes, milk, remaining butter, and oyster liquor to the vegetables. Stir together, then bring to a light simmer over medium-low heat. Add oysters and chopped parsley. Continue to simmer over medium-low heat for 2 or 3 minutes, then check oysters for doneness -- there should be a pronounced "curl" around the other edges. Cook slightly longer, if necessary. Season to taste with salt and fresh-cracked black pepper.
Garnish with fresh herbs, brown butter, or chopped ham. Serve with pickles and crackers or hearty bread.