Horizon Hobby - Timber 1.5 m - Mechanical Trim Adjustment and Initial Repairs

[@1tusk4nicks]

Well "slap my ass and call me Sally!" I have been dealing with this very same elevator trim issue since new-out of the box, and was completely unaware about using "Subtrim" to recenter/zero out the "Main" Trim Tabs in order to retain full throw in both directions. I must give thanks to you for being so gracious with your knowledge in this matter. And by the way...If I had the money, I would buy-out Spektrum RC and immediately hand over the "keys to the store" to both You and your lovely Bride!

[@BrianPhillipsRC]

That's extremely flattering; Thanks! Horizon Hobby honestly does a pretty great job (most of the time..........LOL), I just wish they'd listed to their problem children like me! I'm really after a better product, and they could stand to be a LOT more responsive to some of us. Thanks for watching! Maybe if you win the lottery, I'll take you up on your offer :)

[@mooch55]

My elevator trim was off from the factory. Your vid helped me make it level. Thanks

[@BrianPhillipsRC]

Thanks for the comment! I'm really glad the video helped!!! Hope you enjoy the Timber - It's a GREAT plane :) My UMX Timber is in back-order land...should be getting it pretty soon

[@oldasa]

Me too, both my rudder and elevator. (good point)

[@oldasa]

Brian, I like your enthusiasm for this plane. (Both the 1.5 Meter and the UMX version of the Timber.) I've not flown RC for 26 years. When I left the Hobby because of my business time constraints and now at age 74 I would probably never have considered the hobby ever again but for this plane. In 1993 I had scratch built models very similar to the timber's handling. Additionally, The old electrified and RCed freeflight called the Lonzo Bomber had those low and slow characteristics too. Tapping the wing as it goes by or just running along side and catching the model as it landed was possible. I've bought the UMX Timber and am now preparing it by adding the leading edge and reinforcing the fuse where the landing gear strikes it on rough landings. All I need Now is the right weather. LOL

[@BrianPhillipsRC]

I'm glad to hear you're getting back into it! This plane is a real blast to fly, and I suspect you'll be pleasantly surprised how great they fly!

[@aragorn318]

I successfully binded my Apprentice STS to Spectrum DX6 but upon doing so, I noticed the rudder being way off center. I tried fully trimming it to the left and almost got it to center, but not quite. How do I mechanically adjust the rudder so it's center without trim? I tried unscrewing the servo but there's two steel rods attached to the servo arm from opposite directions, making it impossible to adjust.

[@BrianPhillipsRC]

That "other rod" control the steerable nose gear. You gotta take a close look inside there, and you'll figure it out. You will want to center your trim, then make the surfaces line up. If you're rudder is, let's just assume, FULL RIGHT, the steerable nose gear will also be FULL RIGHT. When you pull the control arm off the servo (remove the screw and move the control arm on the spline, then replace the screw) you will be centering BOTH. If you aren't then you have to study how they're attached and make small adjustments on the OTHER end of the rods, many times, or make a small bent up and down in the rod, if you can't figure it out...this will TAKE OUT LENGTH, but to add length, you'll have to be creative. I'm convinced you've done something wrong. I've never had to move trim ALL the way to one side or the other. You might try to rebind it before you dig in too much.

[@aragorn318]

@@BrianPhillipsRC my nose gear isn't steering. That rod could also be my problem

[@oldasa]

Old ASA's secret to preserving CA glue (especially thin) and minimize tip clogging; Never breath on or allow the tip to touch anything including the target point. (Moisture in your breath plus the open air is your enemy). Those attachable teflon little noodle straws are a must. Throw the original cap away. Instead of recapping always keep the entire open bottle under something like a plastic upside down cup or a glass. I have some of those orange over sized superscription pill containers that do the job. The idea is to return the bottle as quickly as possible under neath your upside down cup thus minimizing outside air contact. I've had thin Ca last in excess of a year or two. The inevitable occasional clog is remedied by clipping a quarter inch off your tube every now and then.

[@BrianPhillipsRC]

Good tip! I keep the original caps on new bottles, only unscrewing the tip and to transfer the fresh CA into my current bottle. This works great for the CA that's not in my current bottle, but as we've been building our new house, and very busy (+ winter here) I've got CA that's surely going to get stiff :( I think I need to come up with a better system. These little tips seem like they'd get clogged fast, but I did some research and found that soaking them in acetone will release all the CA out of, even the most clogged tip, which I tried and it's totally true!

[@laseonestar]

Timber rules. On stock I run 4s 3200 mah. Fits and fly perfect. Lost the prop once and only had a spare from a opterra most say that really made it go... good info Brian

[@BrianPhillipsRC]

You're on to something there! This plane is just so dang floaty! I bet the large 3200mAh 4S would really help to tame this plane (with the added weight) while really giving her some juice!

[@ronbouslagh5017]

to make adjustment easier on elevator trim after loosening linkage stopper use a chip bag clip (like for closing up an unused bag of chips) and clip the stab and elevator at the same time to get center then tighten down the stopper and recheck. I have found it makes centering all of my controls a lot easier.

[@BrianPhillipsRC]

Good idea! I'll try that some time

[@kenrosloniec9546]

Brian, couldn't you just reprogram the receiver for SAFE instead of Safe Select. This way you would have a Beginner Mode, Advance Mode and just AS3X Mode. I would also like to move the flaps to a 3 position switch to move the flaps in increments. Any thoughts on this?

[@BrianPhillipsRC]

No, since [Full] SAFE requires two channels (...stupidly, I might add!!!) One for "Panic" on/off and one for "AS3X Only", "Intermediate Mode" (AS3X and Limited Bank Angles), and SAFE (auto leveling and even more limitation on bank angles).... ...secondly, to your question of "Why don't you"...I can't speak for others, but I think the "Intermediate Mode" is a complete waste of time. You may not agree, and I can respect that, but for me, I want SAFE or AS3X and maybe, in some applications, NO AS3X at all (i.e. thermalling). ...so really, in my personal opinion, I like SAFE Select a LOT better. I'd like a 5 position switch for Flaps on some of my more complicated aircraft, mostly for spoiler deployment and/or air breaks.

[@roderickjamesriddick6255]

Hi Brian, you are some Great Guy .

[@BrianPhillipsRC]

Thanks :)

[@DENSUTUBE2008]

What was the little humidifier for and were did you get it? Looks cool Also cant the connection pin clips be twisted on the end of the rod to adjust rod length?

[@BrianPhillipsRC]

The "humidifier" you were seeing is actually a diffuser. It's basically the same thing, except it ultrasonically vibrates the water to force it into a "vapor", rather than heating it to create actual steam, which is how many humidifiers work. It's used to dispense essential oils and water. It's SUPER DRY here during the winter, so we use it to help the air quality in our living areas. Yes it defiantly looks really cool! I love flying small quads through the "steam"! There isn't a twist on end or "z" bend to adjustment, as are typical for horizon hobby planes, so you have to remove the wing to access the servo control horn adapter, OR remove the control horn and reposition it to the next "key" position on the servo output shaft. Either way, there's reasonable risk of not getting it tight enough, so I'm never a big fan of this type of adjustment. One advantage is that when you crash or accidentally jam a control surface, it may be allowed to slip before damage to the surface...but this isn't always true either. Kinda of a pain in the butt if you ask me...which is why I made this video to help some newer RC pilots.

[@youmee4996]

hi brian thx for sharing currently rebuilding timber after a crash , had pbm adjusting servos and trim . can I use same radio settigs on dx6 ? thx

[@BrianPhillipsRC]

Should be okay, so long as you don't need the 7th channel to turn on/off SAFE SELECT

[@genes6703]

do you have safe on when you are adjusting the trims because when you move the switch the control surfaces move a different position.

[@BrianPhillipsRC]

Negative. Leave SAFE OFF when trimming. As soon as you have her flying strait and level, then use SAFE as you like. If there's a trim adjustment you only want to have when SAFE is being used, make a mix, then activate it when you SAFE switch is utilized. This will allow the trim to be good from SAFE and for AS3X... The Timber is not the best example of SAFE, in my opinion...but weirdly enough, as you get to be a better pilot, SAFE retards both bad and good habits of flying, so it's a bit annoying for more experienced pilots. However, I never try and talk someone out of using SAFE. Whatever gets you in the air and back safely as you're learning, take full advantage. You'll start to get the hang of it with enough practice. Soon enough, it will be annoying you too! LOL

[@genes6703]

HI Brian, question about servos. I'm putting together a plane from flite test, and when I hook up the aileron servos, i don't get the full travel from the servo arms. When I go into the trans setting and increase the servo travel from the default 100% to 150% it does increase the servo travel but still not to the full range of motion. On your planes do you ever need to increase this setting, or is it normal that you might need to. What factors do you think might inhibit the full travel of the servos. Or is it bad for the gears to go to the full ROM. Thanks for your help on this

[@BrianPhillipsRC]

Sometimes they don't travel as far, comparing one servo to another... yes, I do change the servo travel to greater than 100% from time to time. If you're using digital servos, you can cause some issues at the top and bottom of the of the ranges...so be careful to test well before flying. Factors that would inhibit travel...gears broken inside... Too much torque load on the servo... Not enough power from the ESC to run the servo... If you're running e-flite long throw linear servos, they will not handle over 100% servo positions, so be careful not to "overdrive" them as you will damage them.

[@mateoyanez2955]

Hi I have a question there are 4 holes can you tell me me in which hole do I have to set the elevator. Thanks

[@BrianPhillipsRC]

That depends on if you want it to be like the manual or like mine? I have it on the innermost hole for maximum deflection. We are talking about the control horn on the elevator, right????

[@mateoyanez2955]

Brian Phillips yeah about the elevator, also I have another question I have a problem because when I set my tail neutral so at the center, and then the fornt gear goes to different direction likes goes to rigth side so can you tell me what to do to have my tail neutral and my frot gear too, my plane is a cessna me 182 h king skylane. Thanks

[@BrianPhillipsRC]

Mine only had 3 holes???!?!! But, even still, I used the farthest inside on the control surface, and the farthest out on the servo end....thus allowing the most control output from the stock configuration. Are we talking about the Timber 1.5m OR the Skylane???

[@mateoyanez2955]

Brian Phillips well I'm talking about the skylane that's my plane, can you do a videos about the Cessna and how to trimming. Thanks

[@BrianPhillipsRC]

I don't have that plane. Sorry!

[@dockystravels9626]

Where's a good place to buy this plane at a good deal

[@BrianPhillipsRC]

On sale at HorizonHobby.com, when they run maybe $20-50 off...or if you get a 10% off at Hobbytown.com... but if you can't handle the wait, which I could totally respect, here's a link.... amzn.to/2tPaVSm

[@genes6703]

Hey Bri, I've learned quite a bit from your vids, so thanks for that. In this vid, when you adjusted the elevator by mechanical adjustment, how come you didn't adjust it with the sub trim like you did with the rudder? My rudder was off too so I followed what you did with the sub trim, and my elev was off a little too, so I adjusted it the same way I did the rudder with the sub trim. Did I miss something? thanks

[@BrianPhillipsRC]

Use the sub trim and trims on the radio only for in flight adjustment, then land and mechanically adjust it, then you can set your electronic trims back to near zero. This is important to help the stabilizer (AS3X) and/or SAFE to work properly. When you have a large amount of trim, the receiver thinks you're "giving it input", when really you're not. The Rx can't tell the difference between trim and input...so the stabilizer is proportionally diminished in it's effectiveness, if not completely ruled out for a specific control axis. It's critical, or I wouldn't do it either :)

[@roderickjamesriddick6255]

Hi Brian, Your mind works like mine??????

[@BrianPhillipsRC]

Is this a good thing??? LOL

[@roderickjamesriddick6255]

@@BrianPhillipsRC To me BIG YES.

[@BrianPhillipsRC]

:)

[@genes6703]

Brian, have you tried the timber with a 2600 mah size pack? The hobby store told me it would fit, but its tight and I'm not so sure the extra time is worth the struggle. Whats your opinion on it?

[@BrianPhillipsRC]

I can't say for 100% sure since I don't know the dimensions of your 2600mAh pack, but I highly suspect it would fit just fine. The 2200mAh 3S 60C packs I use fit okay, and lots of room to spare, but they have to be slid in at an angle. I'd say the worst part of the Timber is absolutely the battery cavity design, for sure! Any water plane should have top hatch access to battery. If the pack doesn't fit easily, just make the opening bigger. Shouldn't be a lot of effort, since your 2600mAh pack probably isn't all that much bigger anyway. Good luck!

[@bobt219]

I can easily fit a Zippy 3700 3S into my Timber

[@BrianPhillipsRC]

I just got 4X 3000mah 3S 30C packs, and need to check them out.

[@tydemaree9079]

I would like to see a tundra review.

[@BrianPhillipsRC]

Ty Demaree If you get this plane, you'll probably never get the Tundra....not that it's bad....but this plane is Great!

[@subhashpatel3340]

the size is really huge ,,but not huge as an aeroplane u had made and flew that areoplane months ago

[@BrianPhillipsRC]

Yes, you're referring to the ASW 28 2.54 meter wing span glider - It was Awesome!

[@flycatchful]

Use only foam compatible CA and not what this fellow is using.

[@BrianPhillipsRC]

I'm using foam safe CA... Here's the link for what I'm using for your closer inspection... CA Medium Foam Safe BSI - amzn.to/2E2l29z