Hornady OAL Gauge Update, Custom Made Cases for Accuracy!

[@bkd5613]

Simply add the difference in headspace from a sized fire formed piece of brass and the Hornady dummy case.

[@joekirk167]

I do not have access to a lathe so I made mine in a drill press. Perfect.

[@timfarley6493]

Kurt, One of your better videos of late, as the tools and techniques of reloading are more interesting to me than watching the building of rifles. I am sure there are subscribers, who disagree with me, but from my perspective once I have seen a rifle built be it a bolt gun or AR, the next one is just about the same. However, each aspect of reloading brings something completely different from the last. I do not have access to a lathe but I do have a drill press and vices to hold a case true. The drilling of the hole in the case is accomplished with the press and tapping done by hand assist. Once the pilot hole is drilled, the tap can be chucked up in the drill, lowered into the pilot hole and turned by hand to complete. A bit labor intensive but being retired, time is my friend.  I look forward to your 6.5 Creed load development series.

[@michaelenochs4033]

This is an awesome video, I'm really putting the pieces together. You should make a video on doing the same with a semiauto while introducing the magazine.

[@BlackDotPatrick]

This is the video I've been searching for. Trying to learn if I should resize my fire formed brass before making the case. Some say yes and some say no. Thank you.

[@husshuss1874]

Thanks for your help , I’m glad you shared How to make your own case Awesome video

[@rperry70]

Thanks for adding the link to the tap. I was having a little trouble sourcing one.

[@samalverio3157]

For all of you that read this comment and have a hornandy OAL tool take your threaded brass for the tool set it up on tool and color the auction point at the neck and shoulder area.spin the tool while pressing in remove and see wat kind of an impression you get that will tell you if your brass has been fire formed enough to fit your chamber..good luck

[@darylwier4093]

Once again great video, great education.

[@davidreynolds4715]

Easy Peasy!!! Now I just gotta go buy a $6000 lathe, get my man cave wired for 220. Oops, first gotta build my man cave. Have the lathe delivered, assembled and checked over. Blow through, I don't know, maybe 30-40 fire formed cases before I figure out how make one properly and THEN I'm good to go!!! Easy Peasy!!! Tried doing it with a hand drill but with the DT's my hands and eyes ain't so good until after the first 5th of Jim Beam, but that creates a whole 'nother issue!😜

[@jjs811]

Am I correct in thinking if you do this with your fire formed brass after you bump the should back 1-2 thousandths make as long as you use the same bullet and same shoulder bump after ever firing you should only have to do this once?

[@micfasto8700]

That is why I use a rod and collars and measure off the bolt and then the bullet in the lands. Need three hands to do it .

[@darrellmayo9066]

Great content Vaughn, like watching your videos

[@tomgiorgini9154]

very good info, was that all the neck tensinon, no crimp that you carry around that ammo with or was that just neck tension prior to crimping

[@jasonmausteller2488]

So if you use the factory case and use the numbers from the fire formed, you can add it to the factory to get the correct seating depth? Or make a round out of a fire formed case as you suggested

[@linemen71]

Great video! Jut liked and subscribed! I also will be sending you some cases in the future!

[@SigurdtheRyder]

K already have all that stuff and am ready for proper load development! 😁 Midway USA had a sale lol

[@bisonuberti]

Vaughn... Interesting video, however Hornady makes this very clear on their instructions. So much so... that they even recommend you send them two fire-formed cases so they can tap them for you. They also recommend that you deburr and chamfer the Hornady Modified Cases before using them. Also, you have the Body, Bushing and Anvil on the incorrect caliper blades. The anvil should be placed on the stationary blade and the bushing and body should be placed on the traveling blade as per strict Hornady instructions. Hope this helps. Shoot lots and stay safe.

[@tomgiorgini9154]

glad you pointed that out, have not really thought it out yet but just as easy to follow instructions. I had just watched a similar video by another fella who made sure to mention the placement differences, but he was confused on which blade was traveling and which was stationary, it was comical to me, words actually have meanings

[@boober7270]

Perfect. Will do. I appreciate the offer.

[@qedsteve]

Thanks for the video. U just modified the case and find that it fits VERY tight onto the Hornady Lock-n-Load the first 3-4 threads. I'll try a little thread cutting fluid and see if I can't hand-tighten down completely. Has anybody else seen this after the 5/16-36 tap?

[@vaughnprecision]

Steve Slaughter is this a case that you sent me that I drilled and tapped for you.?

[@qedsteve]

@@vaughnprecision Thanks for the quick reply!! No, I used a "L" drill and a 5/16 - 36 tap and the lathe at work. After cleaning up the threads, it is REALLY tight on the Hornady LnL threads. I learned LONG ago to never force fit any threaded gizmos. The "custom" Hornady case that I also bought fits the threads but as you recommended, I would rather use my once-fired brass bumped back 0.002. I might use thread lube and try hand-installing again. If that doesn't work, I can try lightly wire-brushing the threads on the LnL gage. If none of this work, I'm blaming the new tap. Just starting precision loading 6.5 PRC now that I have the rifle broken in with 40 Hornady factory loads.

[@vaughnprecision]

Steve Slaughter try taking the tap with a little cutting oil and running it back through the case, since the tap has a taper on the front, run the tap in deep. This might be enough to clean up those threads for a better fit. Once your done, I like to spray them out with some cleaner, I use carb clean or brake cleaner. Just want to make sure all the fine shavings aren’t hanging things up.

[@qedsteve]

@@vaughnprecision Will run through again. I only blew them out with shop air, I have lots of Brakleen. Good ideas. Thanks!

[@qedsteve]

Worked like a charm. Thanks for the work. Loaded 20 each using the Gunwerks and Hornady brass to head to the range and chronograph. Now using the gage, can set bullet depth consistent on both brands of brass to figure out my final powder selection and charge load. My problem now is that my large group size has to be blamed on my lack of rifle skill, not the bullet jump! (you took away one of my excuses)

[@Loojmemhav]

Hi there! Question for you. Why should we bump the shoulder on a fire formed case if that’s going to compromise the tightest fit of case-to-chamber? In other words, is 0.002 off a concern when your groups tightens up dramatically with 0.005 difference?

[@vaughnprecision]

Pao Her I get my best groups with low ES/SD when bumped .002 back. This isn’t true for everyone, but it works best for me. After a few firings, the bolt will become hard to close if all you do in neck size. You could try bumping at different measurements and see what works best in your rifle.

[@repairfreak]

QUESTION: Hello, why do you need a body die of proper size caliber in order to make a modified case? Please explain how the body die is used in the process, Thanks

[@vaughnprecision]

I only use the body die if I want to make a specific bump to the shoulder. That’s the only reason. Most the time I don’t do this, I just use a fire formed case that’s been drilled and tapped. Hope this helps

[@repairfreak]

@@vaughnprecision Thank you for being kind enough to answer. I recently found out someone I know is a machinist by trade and also has his own metal lathe and mill. I asked if he would make me some modified cases explaining the process, and he said no problem, for you I’ll do it free. The question he asked was about chucking up the brass without a wobble. I don’t think he is super knowledgeable about ammo cartridges. However it did bring an interesting question to this wet- behind ears-getting-ready-to-reload-1st time newbie. I wondered if my cartridges that I will be loading for are straight walled bottle-necks? Turns out the .243 Win, .270 Win, 7.62x39 are not. All of these cartridges show some minimal amount of body taper, with the 7.62 being the greatest of my cartridges. Question, will chucking up a .243 or .270 in a common 3 jaw lathe chuck be wobble free enough to drill & tap, because the taper change is minimal enough over the case body length? Also the other question was: after I fire-form my brass, do I want to full length size my brass with only a .002 shoulder bump, and trim to SAAMI max length before drilling and taping this modified case for the Hornady Max Length Gauge? From what I understand on bolt guns such as the ones I’m most interested in reloading for, one should resize with a .002 shoulder bump with a FL sizing die, for this seems to be suggested norm, and with a .004 bump for auto-loaders. What I’ve heard that throws me off is that even a shoulder bump is still a full length resize of the full body as well, but the difference is that the shoulder bump is made with just ever so less of a full length die max depth setting, or with the die only maybe approx 1 turn less further in than the conventional FL resize die set-up procedure. This setup being where you raise the ram, and dial the FL size die down till it hits the shell-holder, and then just a hair more for cam over feel. This is what I have read is the full length resize setting for my Redding T7 Turret press, and a should bump setting being just slightly less on the die screw-in amount to allow the particular rifle’s bolt to JUST close without tightness. So if I got my info correct, after firing my stock ammo cartridge once, I then want to shoulder bump it .002 with my Redding FL die from my Redding deluxe 3 die set, trim case to SAAMI max length and then have the case modified for the Hornady Max length gauge tool correct? After I then measure case length to shoulder with a bump gauge tool, then bump each case back the same amount of .002, trim to max sammi length, then seat all of my particular bullets the same distance from the lands using case head to bullet ogive measuring tool “keeping in mind the Hornady Overall max length when touching lands measured previously? I watched your video and you explanation of how a person might not be able to get to the lands, nor it be desirable for accuracy depending on bullet length used, and chamber size. Even heard of some saying even a 1/4” jump can be accurate in some rifles. Also heard that powder charges should be reduced if you load very close to the lands because pressure increase significantly! So if consistency of measurement is held with all this kept in mind, am I understanding the process clearly? I still have plenty of time to study more before attempting my 1st reload for my .243 Win, because primers are still unavailable. I just want to make sure I understand things perfectly clear before I reload, so things are safe and accurate. Thank you sir for your gracious help my friend ✌️😎👍

[@soonersteve3733]

I had Hornady make one for me from case fired from my rifle. Why did you bump it after making the modified case? Did not hear that from Hornady when I spoke to them.

[@Mike-jq9jo]

Thank you Sir, excellent video!

[@timnichols3582]

Are the gauge for 280 Rem and 280 Rem Ackley Improved the same? Which is the C-.375"

[@thebigcapt]

Nice video, also made my own modified cases. Question though, if it's better to use a fire formed case why did you size it first?

[@vaughnprecision]

Richard Harvey I sometimes just bump the shoulder, but I stopped doing that for the most part. Now I just drill, tap and use without anything else done to the cases

[@thebigcapt]

@@vaughnprecision many thanks, I am looking at just neck sizing but thought it's better to use the firm formed case as it comes out of the gun, not sizing it first.👍

[@DLN-ix6vf]

TIP: for the Hornady bullet comparator; I just measured 3 different 223 bullets of different weights and manufacturers and found a total of CBTO variance of some .030. All bullets must have identical O'Gives. Then I removed the plastic plunger and filed down the rounded end into a more pointed end and remeasured a 3 bullets again @ 8 each and found the new total variance of the same bullets to be .010. In two of the bullets the CBTO variance was less than 5%. Very accurate now. My conclusion is the bullet bases are not 100% perpendicular to the concentricity of the bullet and the plastic plunger end is too large to get an accurate reading on a small point from the base of the bullets. This was all done in a brand-new JC Custom barrel just purchased and not installed. I wish Hornady would install a smaller metal pointed end on their plunger for a little extra money. 😀

[@johnblythe8229]

Great info. Thanks for the instruction.

[@joewentz7839]

Do you know the part number of the Lee Collet die that you use for the 6.5CM neck?

[@bubbaonpc]

Good Stuff Vaughn ! Thanks

[@LoadsofBacon]

Great stuff as always!

[@frankalessio3374]

Once you have fire formed the case to your chamber why would you bump the shoulder back .002 when making your own modified case...?

[@philiptheodhor8305]

Hello , sometimes a fire formed case will become so large as to not chamber, or chamber very tightly on an individual weapon. This is caused by the pressure exerted all sides of the brass cartridge case. The case will swell until it fits the weapons chamber, thus the term fire forming.. You need to back off your Fl die about 1 turn from bottoming out on the shell holder/plate and loosen the lock ring. Now using the headspace gage slowly your headspace down from the fire formed case about .002 ". This worked for me. Alternately you can decrease the shoulder slightly and then bring that brass case over and place it in your weapons chamber. Close the bolt using very little pressure. If it dose not close with very little effort, bring the case back to your press and decrease the shoulder a little more. Repeat the process until you feel satisfied with your work Now go ahead and tighten the lock ring down on the FL die. Guess what you have a round that it now custom fit to that gun, and only that gun.

[@3006USMC]

Thanks for the links... very helpful.

[@brucewalters8974]

I'm new to this... I have the Hornady set you showed. I have some fired brass (.308) that measures 1.621". How do I adjust my resizing die to only bump the shoulder .002.. ? Sorry if this is a stupid question...

[@vaughnprecision]

Get the Redding body die and screw it down in to the press a small amount at a time until you can measure a difference at the shoulder

[@brucewalters8974]

@@vaughnprecision Thank you...

[@Oregun]

Very informative, thanks!

[@MikeDesertHunterHale]

They are close enough to get you to the point to custom measure and lock it in, just a starting point. I forget, what was the original name of that tool, my old one has the old name. I'm nearly 70 and don't remember right now? The hardest part is finding a drill bit in the correct size, lol..... As a starting point I Always, found the max. load and backed off 200 fps to start, I found it simply didn't take much work from there! (picked powder that ran from lowest to fastest and picked that as a starting powder, lol) That's just me, 50+yrs of reloading, but what do I know, lol...

[@jjss2539]

Stoney Point OAL guage

[@timbrimm4397]

We are looking for CBTO not bump

[@Loojmemhav]

So perhaps we should send you a bumped case that works best in our rifle instead of a unsized fire form brass?

[@jasonmako343]

Copper Creek Ammo also sells the modified cases for various calibers, or you can send them your fire formed brass and they'll make you a custom one and it's cheaper than what Hornady charges. coppercreekammo.com/product/copper-creek-modified-case/

[@boober7270]

Good video👍🏻👍🏻. Hornady reloader has a very informative video on this same subject. I would have one in every caliber if I had a lathe like that. Until then I’ll stick with modified case and calculator lol.

[@vaughnprecision]

Boober if you send me a fired case and an unfired case along with the cost of return shipping I’ll make you one.! I’m making 3 sets today for folks who don’t have the tools.

[@boober7270]

Vaughn Precision thanks that’s awesome!!! I’m away from my house for a few weeks for work👎🏻. I’ll definitely do that when I’m home.

[@vaughnprecision]

Boober sure thing, shoot me an email at [e-mail] when your ready and I’ll give you an address to ship it to.

[@tomgiorgini9154]

@@vaughnprecision very commendable of you for that offer, but you really should get compensated for your time, you could just do it cheaply if you wanted to help someone more in need, but to do it for free I am sure every tom dick and harry will be expecting it.

[@vaughnprecision]

@@tomgiorgini9154 I do charge a fee

[@styledogg17]

This was very helpful. I have a question: have you ran into issues with rounds " hitting the wall" sort of speak. I go to eject the hard to chamber round and it pulls the projectile out of the cartridge leaving the projectile into barrel. do I need to add .010 jump to the barrel or just seat bullets no more than .010?

[@tomgiorgini9154]

more crimp, or neck tension, you are to far in the lands, also but that needs to be determined thru testing. basically if your Bullett is stuck in the barrel you are to far in the lands a lot of factors here

[@bznbrian]

Perfect! Thank you

[@samalverio3157]

You are right the hornandy cases are not accurate.you should use a fire formed brass that has been lenght sized or neck sized as you would normally prep your brass...I don't use the hornandy tool it's too pussy so I made my own alot more sturdy and I made the end to be 5/16 24 instead of 5/16 32 like hornandy.of course 32 is fine if you have that tap also I take the bullets I use and thread them 6-32 so I have a selection of threaded bullets....also that stupid piece of plastic hornandy provide is ridiculous... Mine is made from a cheap take apart cleaning rod very firm not like hornandys

[@cjtathome]

Send me one Sam and I’ll do a review. I have four subscribers.

[@briksthedog01]

Should i use fire formed case and length guage to find your seating depth even though i only have virgin brass to load on this time around?(sold my brass thinking I'd never get around to reloading. Two weeks later found an ammo can of primers in my dads storage and some brass on midway ).

[@vaughnprecision]

I don't think you need to if all you're doing is shooting new brass but if you plan on reloading them once fired you should use a once fired case that's drilled and tapped.

[@raider6511]

How much for u to make it and what size drill for the 5/16 tap?? Love your video's they are so informative.

[@vaughnprecision]

raider6511 send me 2 cases, one fired and one not. That way I have something to compare them to. Send me 5-10 bucks and I’ll make one and mail it back.

[@MBwelding]

@@vaughnprecision where do I send one to I have a 6.5 creedmoor I'd love to get more out of I have the hornady modified case already but I'd like to get an even more accurate measurement off my lands

[@vaughnprecision]

brambo4791 go to my website and email me from there, I’ll email back all the info you’ll need

[@samalverio3157]

Here comes the other one ...,.......I had a problem with my new Redding and o!d hornandy full lenght die...it seems my brass on my factory 243 had blown out at the neck to where when I tried to full length size the the neck was butting up against the neck shoulder junction and the case would not enter ?????that is a SHARP junction where the die maker should have made their reamer to put a slight radius to act as a funnel to help the brass enter the necking portion of die.........so what I did was to take a cone shape stone on my Dremel and kiss that junction to create a s!ight radius.the sharppend u rubber cratex stick and polished it out.....before I deliberately pushed on that press handle and I actually crushed that brass that's how bad it was....here's another thing...I checked the bore of the necking part of two dies one a brand new Redding another an older hornandy with little use and found the internal diameters the (bore) to be different.now I am a retired machinest and have every type of measuring tool there is so I was able to do this....so the bottom line is that these dies have flaws in their design that keep you from obtaining the best loading performance from our ammo. [e-mail]

[@robertbroxson4582]

How can I get in touch with you to make some? I had a local machinist to make some and I bought the tap. I just can not afford to do that again. I don’t mind paying a reasonable amount

[@vaughnprecision]

Vaughnprecision.com

[@larky1973]

Hi, I'm new in reloading. Should I trim fire formed case first?

[@vaughnprecision]

Marek Kondraciuk it’s best to yes, you’ll get better results

[@drprepper5903]

What do I need to do to get a custom made comparator brass for the Hornady O.L.G.?

[@silverback7659]

How accurate is that cheap caliper though?

[@vaughnprecision]

Usually I've found the cheap ones to be within about .001 to .002 when compared to an expensive pair.

[@planeiron241]

nice vid

[@samalverio3157]

Here's another one......the instruction on setting up a full lenght die is to bring shell holder up to bottom of die ... Wat a joke that is..now if you wanted to bump back the soulder how can you wen the ram of the press is bottomed out an can't go any further ???? So I took my dies and on the lathe a cut back the end where I could get all the travel I need for the shoulder part of the die to touch the soulder part of the brass.also I get FULL neck sizing not partial.in order to bump back shoulder that case would have to expand a mile... If u set up die the way the instructions tell you

[@Peter-od7op]

If i hear creed more one more time i will scream