Hornby Dublo 3 rail Silver King A4 Loco - Service, Chat and Run

[@davidgifford8112]

I had the very same model A4 Silver King 3-rail. A beautiful model, to my regret I gave it away. Nice to see an example again, just as I remembered.

[@dustyshelfcollectables]

I am glad it brought back memories, thanks ever so much for watching and taking the time to comment.

[@kimballthurlow577]

Thanks for showing. This is a superb example in pristine cosmetic condition. There are probably hundreds still available and reasonably cheaply.

[@dustyshelfcollectables]

Well said! I love the aged loco, has such a presents on the layout. thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.

[@khtrains]

That model is in absolutely beautiful condition! I can't remember the last time I saw a Silver King that was that nice! Loco and tender were sold separately, same with some Triang models from the 50s and early 60s. The loco was quite expensive so it would often take two purchases to be able to afford both parts! There may be a date code on the tender box, if you are interested in its exact month and year of manufacture. Unfortunately the loco date codes were usually on the guarantee slip, or sometimes the instruction sheet. I have an E3002 in the box, with a guarantee slip dated 7/64, meaning it's from the very last month of production. You got that loco running very well. I didn't see you put any lubrication on it though; it does sound as if it would benefit from a couple of drops on the bearings and gear. A can of contact cleaner is a good item to have in your inventory as well, it's especially useful for spraying into the space between the chassis and the axle, to blast out any old, gunked-up oil. I also use it on a cotton tip to clean the armature and brushes.

[@dustyshelfcollectables]

Thats fantastic, thank you for the information, seems a strange concept now to buy the tender separately. I cant see a date code on the tender box though, do you know where it may be found ? Indeed I did lubricate the engine after filming, At the time I just wanted to see if it ran. Post filming it had a good old run, absolute lovey engine. and yes contact cleaner on the shopping list.... Thank you ever so much for watching, the information and taking the time to add a comment. Matt

I love how these old locos will run on a small radius on my desktop, I like that you can feel the weight/inertia when driving them, and the noise they make on the metal track is great as well. My Silver King has the plastic top of the tender warping and curling up with age. I need to work out what to do. I might try the hairdrier method first of all, warm it up, and ssee if I can ease it back straight, but I was hoping to find a video of how to dismatle the tender, although it looks like it might be rivetted together. In which case, a replacement tender might be in order. Later on today I wil be re-magging a ocuple of my Dublo Duchesses - I just got my Ron Dodd machine this week!

[@TC-qd1zw]

I got this in 1956 for Christmas. Still have it all in original box with track. All made in UK by Hornby, Meccano. Love how it is metal cast and weighty.

[@dustyshelfcollectables]

That's fantastic, I always say these locos carry their history but rarely with the first owner! I also love the weight which give that thundering appearance on the layout, and as you say UK made. Thanks for watching and taking the time to share.

[@premikyam2726]

Dusty. great job putting your experiences on camera. Just be aware that magnetism is still something of an unknown. In general, remagnetising works best with the magnet, pole pieces and armature all in position with the screw in place. Back in the day, Meccano sold locos and tenders separately.

[@dustyshelfcollectables]

Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment, I did find subsequently that indeed 'in the loco' does appear to work better, but I am still in the process of trial and error. Thank you for confirming the loco and tenders were sold separately - it does seem a strange approach now.

[@AUSTIN-1100]

Agree on the magnet recharging.

[@JLfromEdinburgh1951]

My recollection from the early 1960s is that Hornby Dublo price lists quoted a single price for locomotive and tender, whereas Tri-ang (Rovex) sold them separately. The early fifties are really before my time when it comes to model railways -- I got my first train set for my 5th birthday in the autumn of 1956, and it was Tri-ang, and therefore two-rail. My mother (who I'm sure had some input in the choice) thought that 3-rail was unrealistic. Hornby Dublo was also significantly dearer than Tri-ang. I do recall seeing a 3-rail Hornby Dublo A4 in the early fifties, but I couldn't tell you the name or the number, as I hadn't started school yet, so I couldn't read!! I did however recognise it as the same kind of engine that I had seen arriving at the Waverley station with the non-stop "Elizabethan" from London. It was on the layout of a neighbouring boy who was a little older than me. i.e. he was 6 or 7 when I was 3 or 4. He was so much bigger than me, that I could hardly believe that somebody as big as that could still be a boy! "Layout"? It was a oval of tinplate 3-rail track laid on the living room carpet! Interesting that these engines are no longer regarded as sufficiently detailed. As I recall from the readers of the Railway Modeller in the early '60s, Hornby Dublo engines were generally considered adequately detailed, while Tri-ang ones weren't. This seems mainly to be about valve gear and hand rails. Hornby Dublo engines had fully working valve gear, in as much as the valve spindle actually moved. The Walchaerts valve gear on Tri-ang engines of the period lacked the union link and combination lever, so the valve spindle couldn't move. Tri-ang's black Princess Victoria lacked any valve gear at all (unless somebody's going to tell me that this engine had inside valve gear like the G.W.R. Castles and Kings?!) The other thing was that Hornby Dublo engines had wire handrails, whereas Tri-ang ones were moulded in plastic in semi-relief. The Hornby Dublo handrails were probably held in place by split pins rather than drilled-out brass knobs as one might expect today. (You can maybe check on Silver King and see if I'm right.) Personally, as a schoolboy on a tight budget, I just put up with moulded handrails and "pretend" valve gear. Though, by the 1970s, when I was working as a guard for British Rail, I'd have been very disappointed if the engines had had moulded-on plastic handrails; I wouldn't have been able to climb up to the cabs if they had! Anyway, enough of my ravings! Monty Python would say I'm just being silly now!!

[@dustyshelfcollectables]

wow, thanks for watching

[@robinforrest7680]

I have a Matt green one but I do prefer this version ! She really does look the part and holds up very well compared with its modern successor and for a fraction of the price… Part of the charm is that when Meccano built these, the real ones were still in front line service on the ECML.

[@dustyshelfcollectables]

Do you know I did think that way, of course the real ones were running, what a great thing to point out! I am working on a new video at the moment trying to compare the old an new, but finding it a challenge - I think I prefer and enjoy the old locos more. Anyway thanks for taking the time to comment. Matt

[@robinforrest7680]

@@dustyshelfcollectables looking forward to the comparison video!!

[@robinforrest7680]

As a result of this video I got my Silver King out of storage this weekend. Actually it seems to be gloss. I serviced it last summer. I’m pleased to say that it runs like a dream, smoothness from a crawl to high speed are incredible. Looks like I’ll be setting up a semi permanent 3-rail layout soon which should keep me going until I can build a new 2-rail layout in a couple of years when I retire. I’m still amazed at how good these locos are 60-70 years on. How many of todays Chinese made locos will still be running in 2090?

[@dustyshelfcollectables]

Fantastic, I love the thought that my video was the trigger to running a loco from your collection, wonderful. They are beautiful locos and there is something very organic in the way the older stock runs. And I agree, the I don't think the new stock will last, certainly not to 2090 but will this even be a hobby by then? anyway thanks for watching and taking the time to message.

[@cmdrflake]

Interesting Hornby Dublo/Meccano three rail AC locomotive. I am intrigued by these odd (by US STANDARDS) beasts. I consider them to be toys roughly equivalent to Marx’s battery powered line. Not literally seriously models, 70 years on however, they are quite different and very similar to the Marklin AC system in some respects. Fascinating.

[@dustyshelfcollectables]

I am so fond of these old engines , agreed not serious models in this day and age, but back in the day I can only imagine the excitement. sorry if I misled these are still 12v DV, just with a centre rail. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.

[@bertiewooster3326]

They were separate boxes Matt so you could save up or get relatives to buy the tender or the loco or both!!

[@dustyshelfcollectables]

Thank you, I wasn't sure, it seems such a strange concept now, but does make sense. That said, the way prices are going in the hobby,maybe we will go back to buying the tender separately. Anyway thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Matt

[@patrickquinn5962]

Nice one thanks

[@dustyshelfcollectables]

Apologies for not responding sooner many thanks for watching and taking the time to message.

[@kimballthurlow577]

You mention a raised front plate for this 1953 model. I have a number of these 3 rail models but have never heard that terminology. Could you explain please? I wash (full immersion and brush) the complete chassis and mechanism in pure eucalyptus oil and that usually drives out years of gunk. I don’t think that would work on a modern model with lots of plastic parts.

[@dustyshelfcollectables]

So, I got the terminology from my Ramsey's guide and assume it was referring to the loco number on the smoke box. However, after your question I am not so sure now and think its fair to say I may be incorrect. The book refers to 'NO raised number plate' and 'ditto raised number plate' all the locos I have, have raised smoke box numbers, so apologues if I have miss led, As you probably guessed I am not an expert. I like the Idea of the eucalyptus oil, I will give that a try. thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Matt

[@kimballthurlow577]

Yes I understand now, it would be the smokebox number plate on the EDL11 casting. The earlier castings which were EDL1 and which used the LNER livery did not have the front number plate. Thankyou Matt.

[@kimballthurlow577]

You can use kerosene just as well but it does not agree with me. It dries off more slowly than eucalyptus.

[@David-ci1vn]

That's a Ringfield motor isn't it?

[@kimballthurlow577]

That is a half-inch motor. An earlier model about pre-1950 was called the horseshoe motor where the magnet was not separable. The ring-field was first released in an 8F 2-8-0 about 1958.

[@kiwitrains]

Liked the vid and content but you do seem to be a bit rough with the locos 👍

[@dustyshelfcollectables]

You are not the first to say, so point taken, I will endeavour to be more gentile - its a marathon not a sprint! Thanks for watching.

[@AUSTIN-1100]

Gosh, you are heavy handed working on that poor A4, very clumsy. Wet and dry on wheels like that will give you flat spots. 🫣😬😔

[@dustyshelfcollectables]

Don't worry, it was a very fine grit and a lot more gentile than it appeared, but as I keep saying don't follow me as an example! I am open to suggestions though on better methods to clean the wheels?

[@khtrains]

@@dustyshelfcollectables I'd recommend a fibreglass pencil as a good alternative. I also like to have the loco spinning its wheels while I use the pencil.

[@daviddorrell8390]

@@khtrains I use one of them but also I use a circular brass brush on a Dremel as 00Bill uses. Seems to work well. For magnetizing, as I saw in another video, the compass should not be put on top of the magnet, but next to the pole face. Ron Dodd has a video on how to use his magnetizer. Putting on top may well give the wrong direction of the magnet so reverse the magnetization when remagged. These magnets should be magnetized in situ. if they are not they will loose some magnetism because the motor armature is part of the keeper. These are weak magnets that need a keeper - the tank engine comes with a keeper that you screw off when assembled. I tend not to launch into a strip down first. Dublo can be mostly cleaned and oiled without taking apart and further weakening the magnets and losing the ball in the bearings. I use contact cleaner to get a lot of the muck out and clean the commutator with a fibreglass pen. My usual routine is to first clean the commutator, clean the muck out and oil and grease. Then see if it runs with wires attached to the brush connections. I do this before and after and measure the current. This give a good indication to the health of the motor. If the motor comes out, like an XO3 or XO4 motor, then I service and test it off the motor. Dublo is so much nicer to work on than modern stuff that falls apart in your hands. Triang is almost as easy. I remag Traing too but their magnets do seem to be stronger.