Hornby TT:120 motor failure; a look inside & fixes UPDATES in description for suppliers

#hornby #tt #hornbyrailways #railway #modeltrains #modelrailwaylayout #train #modelrailways #modelrailwayscene
Apologies up front as this is a long video but it covers a lot of hopefully useful information and advice applicable to Hornby TT:120 locomotives and the issue of motor failures/faults and poor running. What’s going wrong and how to fix or replace motors.
Gear Puller Tramfabriek.co.uk
Lubricant and applicator Peter’s Spares
I’ll add the details of the motors when I find th again!
Links to suppliers of bits I used, these were all paid for by me and no financial associations between myself and suppliers; purely a source of parts and tools I used and I received excellent service and fast deliveries etc.
Motors
www.ebay.co.uk...
Gear Puller and additional 0.9 mm pins (must trim one 3mm!!!)
tramfabriek.co....
Note a precision oiler is also available here

[@stephendehavilland5254]

Just watched the video on the Hornby TT120 forum. thanks for taking the time to produce the video. 🙂

[@HighFell]

No worries 😁

[@dinmorejunctionmodelrailway]

Hi Matt. Excellent video that held me to the end, so congratulations on that, at least. Were you aware of a duplicate part in the video. Your voice volume and speech were spot on. My layout is OO, so TT doesn’t hold much interest that said your layout looks great and the most complete TT railway I've seen. I have dropped a subscription as I feel I want to see more from you. Regards Steve.

[@HighFell]

Cheers Steve, ha ha not the neatest bit of video work and getting it all stitched together was challenging my iPhone on memory, I think someone else saw the duplicate. Apologies for making you watch even more 😁. I wanted to make sure as much as possible was real time so people could see everything involved in the process, the magic of editing can often cover up how hard a job really is! I appreciate the subscription, we are all modellers and there is always loads of inspiration and entertainment in different styles and scales, thanks for kind words on layout, it’s actually my first with scenery, 45 years in the planning though! 😁

[@dinmorejunctionmodelrailway]

@@HighFell Thanks for appreciating my criticism. I was constructive and in support of a channel that I enjoyed. Your videos are better produced than mine. I have shared your video with other channels who might climb abroad for a ride along with you.

[@HighFell]

@@dinmorejunctionmodelrailway Thanks so much, I have returned the compliment, nice array of diesel power. I’m looking forward to appropriate diesels coming out in TT:120, currently the Germans are doing the heavy lifting 😁

[@billburnhope2176]

I’ve just returned the Duchess of Montrose, it just made a buzzing sound, and Blink Bonney did not even make the running in before it expired! Blink Bonney is back but will stay in its box, and though the post office delivered the Duchess 2 weeks ago to Hornby, I have heard nothing from them. To say I’m peed off is putting it mildly. I was just about to invest in a layout,but doubt that I will now. Can’t see Hornby lasting much longer to tell the truth. I’m curious that nothing Great Western was offered, which is my real interest, but will just stay with 00 now! Thanks for the video. Subscribed.

[@HighFell]

I think the Montrose issue is something actually very minor, it’s section of the valve gear fouling, it could even be down to mishandling in packing, mine did it in reverse and a little tweak solved it. It’s well worth preserving as the actual models are superb and whe running well, they are great. I am actually more confident now in the scale and Hornby models because I know the biggest problem can be overcome relatively easily.

[@billburnhope2176]

@@HighFell just had an email, Hornby have sent the Montrose back today. I forgot to mention that I live in France and the cost of having anything from the U.K has almost doubled! Postage and duty now make it unviable!

[@HighFell]

@@billburnhope2176 if you are not already part of it, get involved in the Hornby forum and the TT:120 section. It could really be a big help. I know it’s not ideal when things are not perfect but lots of the issues in the hobby are quite easy to fix. On other hand slightly jealous of your current location 😁 Hope Paris delivers on Olympics 👍

[@billburnhope2176]

Update, on the Montrose, Hornby replaced the chassis on the tender. Apparently not simple. Still in the box as I will not be running it what a waste of money!

[@HighFell]

@@billburnhope2176 swapping a tender chassis is pretty simple stuff. I would get it out of the box and have stuff running, it’s not a waste of money, it’s an opportunity to have some fun 😁

[@lindsaybancroft4629]

Not looking forward to this becoming an issue but I guess that’s part of the hobby. Your videos are great and much appreciated. Thanks mate 👍

[@HighFell]

Real life isn’t perfect, but what matters is finding solutions to problems, that’s evolution. 😁

[@lindsaybancroft4629]

@@HighFell yes I will likely enjoy learning yet another skill 🚂

[@muir8009]

Fascinating video. Really appreciate, not only your positive pragmatism, but your technical analysis. Being a little obtuse here: I've got a fair few items of TT, generally the old Berliner items. Now, I've been fiddling with a few motors, be it the original round case or square motors. The round case are sealed, but with changeable brushes. They are however an older (be likely 60 odd year old design now) and like anyone was interested in improving low speed running. Now, I've tried a flywheel N unit, which burnt out almost instantly. What I deduced was that their more complicated drive (in this case a BR56 with all drivers geared and with separate gearbox assembly) was overtaxing the motor. Round case back in. E94 krokodil: replaced with big flywheel mabuchi, slower top speed, generally excellent running characteristics. Another E94 I did a coreless: generally good consistent low speed but very excessive top speed, and far too responsive to small voltage increases. Basically very hard to control. (Using HM2000 analogue controller). Other E94's are round case and square case. Square case is more responsive (think less current draw). The conclusion I've ended up is the old round case actually does have acceptable low speed running characteristics, is very tough and reliable, powerful, and its worst characteristic is its excessive size. In steamers it fills the cab, electrics and diesels of course it's no issue. The modern tillig are superb runners, but like all tillig they're expensive. Basically what I'm saying in this long-winded comment is I'm quite happy making the compromise of functionality and reliability over aesthetics. I will also add, slow speed running is a bit of a misnomer, I am more desiring of smooth starts and stops over any crawling ability. Think its very commendable you experimenting with remotoring, unfortunately in your case it's through necessity, in my case it was just a case of being desirous to experiment. I personally have either stayed with the original motor, and if I was going to re-moter a loco again it would solely be a flywheel mabuchi.

[@HighFell]

I had a Tillig small diesel that shorted its own motor straight out of the box, it was disappointing but Tillig agreed to have it back as you would expect but for the first time ever I dropped the loco on a edge of my steel tool box…lots of parts mostly broken so it never went back. A Roco Br108 motor failed (same issue as here) in 8 hours of running, it went back, 5 months later returned, lasted 1 hour and then Roco refused to even talk about it. Poor company ethics. I remotored that one myself and it’s fine now. The brand that always impresses me with running and durability is Piko, I had an HO BR118 as a youngster and it was a tractor! I have two Piko TT locos now and they are so impressive. The detailing isn’t the same standard as Hornby have achieved but running and hauling power is faultless. Having DCC and in particular HM DCC is a real help with re motoring as you can fine tune any motor easily. The hurdle is getting the BT decoder into the model, hopefully Hornby can get Gen2 smaller ones out soon. Glad you appreciate the approach, a lot of people in YT lane are drama queens and not engineers, although this is not my area of expertise, an engineering approach delivers results. Identify the fault, fix, redesign, implement. What can we do now with what is available? 😁

[@muir8009]

@HighFell I was afraid you'd mention that regarding tillig. I think I've been lucky with the very few I've had (although my E77 has barely been run), the German tt forums aren't the most complimentary regarding tilligs consistency in quality and reliability. Roco seems to be detail and body molds, but very, very few are complimentary towards their quality of running gear. Everyone is a fan of Piko: I had just the base tt Taurus, and it was a beautiful loco. I'm quite keen on trying out a kuehn at some stage. TBH, my main trains are '50's and '60's märklin and '20's Lionel, Ives, and American Flyer, and with reason. With the old Analogue märklin I've got a few pieces of the very, very good quality HAG. Yes, in appearance they may be considered crude, but they measure quality in paint finish, functionality, and reliability, not through the amount of add-on plastic detail equipment. I've currently got what used to be my modern dcc scale H0 sitting in a box as I've just given up. It's all likely to end up in the bin in the near future. I've honestly lost interest in attempting fitments and refurbishments and alterations through necessity, I enjoy fiddling and tinkering but just because I want to tinker. All good fun, and as always, tt is die ideale spür Keep up the good work

[@HighFell]

@@muir8009 thanks, I think one area where Roco and to a smaller degree Tillig have let themselves down is customer service. Roco is probably the worst company I have ever dealt with, on anything. The arrogance they display is staggering. In UK we are very lucky that our home manufacturers are very customer focused and while things are not always perfect they do try very hard to get things sorted, Hornby are absolutely top of the tree on customer service and why I really hope they can get to grips with this issue, we know they have already made revisions and changes as things have shown up. Absolutely, TT, the perfect scale 😁

[@ianhughes-zf1ll]

Thanks for making this video sheds a lot of light on my tt120 locos all four gone back to Hornby at some stage plus class 50’s and intercity 125 for other problems cheers

[@HighFell]

I can’t fault Hornby for customer service although the quality at the manufacturer (the actual factory) needs more attention

[@ejm9716]

Very interesting and informative. Thanks!

[@HighFell]

Thank you, 👍

[@mf303]

Good video. A video I think will be watched many times over!

[@HighFell]

Thanks, sorry it’s so long. A lot to pack in and I wanted to leave it unedited so it shows everything as much as I could. There will be updates as things are moving quickly 😁

[@MRBJ0239]

Thank you for an excellent video. My loco's are only just at the running in stage as I am still constructing a layout. This may be a problem that many of us will face. I am hoping that a supplier out there will looking at this as an opportunity and consider providing a replacement motor and worm gear as an assembly.

[@HighFell]

Swapping the end cap with brushes is very simple. The big thing is don’t worry, there are solutions and things will develop. 👍

[@gregstacey8215]

Very grateful for your video which is excellent. I have had quite a few issues with burnt-out motors using HM7000... Error message Motor Overcurrent. Hornby has been very good at replacing motors under warranty, although they cannot say why this happens. Eventually, once the warranty is done, I will need to replace the motors myself. Your video is brilliant. I am considering ditching HM7000 and going analogue.

[@HighFell]

It’s not the HM 7000 or DCC that’s the problem. The over current is actually diagnostics in the system and it’s self protection shutting decoder down. Generally DCC control is better for motor longevity. It’s the nasty BE brushes that are the issue and they are changeable. A new video showing how will be done as soon as parts are here 👍

[@gregstacey8215]

@@HighFell Hi... That's the first definitive answer I have been able to get... thank you. I look forward to your next video.

[@gregstacey8215]

@@HighFell Hi... me again. Would fitting a snubber at the end of the bus help?

[@HighFell]

@@gregstacey8215 I doubt it would help the motors because it’s the design rather than spikes, however spike protection on the ends of the Power Bus and spike/surge protection on wall socket are a sensible move, I run with both of these in place.

[@gregstacey8215]

@@HighFell Ah... okay... where about do you get the end cap with brushes?

[@pmb9172]

With the Chinese , you must specify everything down to the last nut , bolt and washer as if you dont they will use the cheapest to hand product . Specify it correctly and they will produce a good product

[@HighFell]

They do also have the habit of saying one thing and doing another unless you have your eyes on everything all the time.

[@modeloco]

Hi Matt, Are you aware of the possible issues that the HM7000 decoders may have on Coreless motors and as we talked earlier 36/40 hours is a long time in my set ups. Not sure how long N scale motors last either coming from OO to get some perspective. I’m also wondering if motor heat build up played a part in the original malfunctioning, if you do longer running sessions which I presume you do and have sorted the bleep. Plus, apart from great advice here, you get award for best thumbnail of 2024 so far on this video. Seriously it’s 👍

[@HighFell]

My best art went into that thumbnail, Christie’s have been in touch about selling NFT of it…. I can’t think why a decoder, HM7000 or otherwise would not play nicely with a coreless motor, if anything DCC would be better, but it’s not really my area of expertise. I don’t really run locos for log periods, maybe longest 15-20 mins continuously before it’s stood down and another is running. N have been using similar motors and similar results. EB brushes (the precious metal finger type) don’t like stop start or going in reverse according to Maxon who are one of the most respected motor manufacturers/suppliers in industry. The heat issue is something I a organising to test, some recording kit on the way. One contributor here suggested the N20 type motor are not good under load, at 5 coaches there is arcing across the EB brushes and commutator that leads to overheating and rapid brush degradation. However that I want to establish for myself. I haven’t seen signs of high temps inside the bodyshells etc. Glad you have corrected the fire safety system, your Elvis suit looks like it could spontaneously combust 😁 I am feeling more positive about the motor issue as there are solutions and more out there to discover 👍

[@modeloco]

Regarding the beep and having replaced two batteries on non wired in ones now. I also have spiders that love spinning in front of my security cameras in spring and summer and usually in unison at certain times as they’ve just gone off now. Like you more positive with my cobweb brush rather than carbon. As for Elvis it’s all in the book.

[@andywilliams4116]

Wow! Surprised at this issue, but great that you have found a solution for us and our Chufty Pufty’s if we get the same issue.👍 Actually, now you’ve highlighted this, I’ve noted that my Willy Whitelaw is making more noise now after just about an hours (if that!) use. 😱 Also on a completely different topic, some videos ago I asked you about a ‘how to’ video for a “reverse loop” using the HM 7000. I’ve now got that baseboard built (nearly) so will hopefully be needing some more or your Helpful Hints 😉 Many thanks indeed for all your advice which is very much appreciated. 👏

[@HighFell]

Sorry the reverse loop stuff still in the works! It’s not 100% HM 7000 as I use regular DCC for operation and HM DCC for tuning the decoders 😁 I am not having a downer on Hornby in TT:120, but there a few things that need sorting and they can be 😁

[@andywilliams4116]

Hi HighFeller, wow you reply quick! 😂 I’m looking for a reverse loop module that will work with the HM7000 system and hopefully I can figure out the other bits??? The items I’ve found so far state won’t work with the HM7000 so any pointers would be HUGELY appreciated. Again many thanks for all your contributions, and I’m learning lots from your posts. Cheers 🍻 Andy

[@andywilliams4116]

I agree there a a “Few” things that need sorting and these are frustrating, but I’m still very enthusiastic about the TT120 offerings that I’ve bought so far from Hornby and the growing number of other suppliers/ sources . I just hope someone fairly soon offers some little steam shunters, or a Castle Class/ Hall Class/ Black 5’s etc etc etc….. 😉🙄 I know, patience is a virtue. 🙄 Afraid the J50 doesn’t really float my boat, and to top it all there is no DCC ready version currently on the cards. (Same as the class 08??)

[@davidorf3921]

N20 motors come from more than one Chinese manufacturer, some will be built to a slightly better specification than others but typically they would probably not be intended to run continuously for any length of time, normally the are found with a gearbox fitted to allow the motor to run at full speed with the output at a fixed speed e.g 150, 300 or 1200 rpm (there are lots of variations). It does surprise me that Hornby decided to use these type of motors though. Less than 40 hours life expectancy is not very much for something that perhaps children might be expected to play with. I had my first 00 Gauge layout when I was just 8 years old and when you have only one or two logos you have them running all of the time, I'm pretty certain these would not have lasted 6 months of use, which as a child would have left me very disappointed and my parents annoyed

[@HighFell]

Yes, N20 is purely a size code and no guarantee of what is inside or even voltage etc. They have 1000’s of applications and while some characteristics are suited to model locos some downsides are not. I cover this in the video. Maxon do some good solid comparisons between the motor types and what’s best suited for different applications. Stop start and reversing kills these. I have some other options in the pipeline so we can see if there are other better solutions available at a sensible price rather than just wait 😁 Hornby isn’t the only one using these motors, they are very commonplace in other model locos and unsurprisingly they have the same issues.

[@davidorf3921]

Interesting back when I used to shoot I had a set of drift punches, all of those used a hardened steel pin with a highly polished tip (so as not to mark the surface of the pins you were removing) for that pin to bend like that it's probably just mild steel with no heat treating. If one had access to a small lathe it would be a relatively simple if crude replacement to use a pit of correct sized mild steel for the body of the pin that mounts in the tool and use a HSS 0.9mm drill bit as a replacement for the actual driving pin just cut to length, you can buy 5 0.9mm drills for £5 so you could even make several different length versions to just drive out a bit at a time.

[@HighFell]

They are just mild steel, and some tinkering with a lathe would be ideal. Hardened pins would be ideal and the diameter could be increased slightly to 9.5mm too. Might ask a local blacksmith if he can harden some for me. 👍

[@andybuckley9223]

@@HighFell it seems rather strange to think of a blacksmith working on something that's just 9.5mm in diameter!!

[@HighFell]

@@andybuckley9223 to harden steel, it’s brought up to 600 degrees and then quenched in water.

[@WinterroSP]

N20 motors run hot extremely quickly with a load on them, make sure not to stress them

[@HighFell]

Can you quantify how much load? I can’t say I have noticed them running hot when ok and on a normal running session but like all motors when they are not ok they do generate more heat, certainly not enough to leave any signs of overheating inside the loco bodies. One thing to remember is N20 is only the size code, it doesn’t indicate voltage or brush arrangement so some may respond very differently to others. Temperature testing is something that I can do 👍

[@WinterroSP]

@@HighFell like any. I am a modeler and build my own HO/OO scale model trains. I test motors before cad designing them into my models. The motor doesn’t run hot, however the arcing in combo with the friction slowly eat the brushes away. When the brushes are almost gone they can wedge themselves between the plates of the commutator and cause a short. Which as you might have guessed, can cause a fire. N20 motors start arcing at about 5 coaches. That causes the brushes to degrade rapidly, as these motors are designed for applications with like no load and low rpm. Make sure to keep the commutator squeaky clean if you want any longevity.

[@HighFell]

@@WinterroSP thanks to others in the TT:120 and model railway community some carbon brushed versions of an N20 have been identified, although lower voltage rated armatures. I have some on the way so will try an end cap swap to carbon brushes and see how they perform, at least that should improve service life. Thanks for tip on train length, that’s useful information in respect of load on the motor that most people can quantify 👍

[@garryhall5552]

Excellent Matt, hopefully Hornby will look at this and try to see if they can help us but I am not holding my breath. I would like to think the J50 motor with brushes might be a direct replacement.

[@HighFell]

This is what I am wondering Garry although the carbon brush versions of this can size I have seen are larger around the end cap so slightly longer. That’s only ones I have seen and there are 1000’s of motors out there so it’s a wait and see thing. 👍

[@garryhall5552]

@HighFell when you say longer Matt, does that mean the overall length may be slightly longer? If so, I should still be able to fit it with a little judicial grinding. I imagine it could be due to the brush width being wider than the metal wipers?

[@HighFell]

@@garryhall5552 yes the one I saw was about 3-5 mm longer but it was a photo rather than with full description of dimensions. The end cap was obviously more bulky and the carbon brushes are held in with a wire spring like many of the Continental HO models used to use.

[@damianinCanadaTT-OO]

Nice result but is there any reason this motor would last longer than the Hornby one? I was interested that the coreless comes with an adapter. That seems like a good solution. What do think?

[@HighFell]

The plan was to try this motor first for two reasons, it’s dimensionally identical and has very very similar insides so a direct comparison and at £1.50 each you could replace a arm full of of them for the price of 1 coreless one. The next will feature a coreless swap, Trigo is displaying early symptoms of motor failure so I expect won’t have long to wait! I am speaking with another supplier whose motors I would prefer to try. I’ll keep people updated

[@Haymarket47]

Very informative, thanks for making. May I ask what soldering iron you used, thanks.

[@HighFell]

The one to heat up the worm gear or to desolder and solder the motor wires?

[@Haymarket47]

@@HighFell 🤣 I thought they were different and then I questioned myself! Both if you don’t mind, thank you.

[@HighFell]

@@Haymarket47 the electric soldering iron was a generic Chinese kit of Amazon £15 and perfect for model railway stuff, the stand does need holding down though, I use black tack and an off cut of ply to stabilise it. The cranked tweezers and cutters are part of kit so really useful tools. Iron has replaceable tips and adjustable heat setting. Soldering Iron, Soldering Iron... www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07SLRRYMC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share The gas one is a Portasol SuperPro 125, had it for quite a few years, very useful for soldering where mains electricity is a problem, they are more expensive at around £40ish. I don’t think heating the brass worm did that much, using the shortened pin is probably the key.

[@Haymarket47]

@@HighFell Thank you for such a comprehensive reply.

[@timallen_uk]

These 1st Generation locos need sorting out, they need retro fitting to bring them to the same or close to same standard as the current Princess Coronation class. My Flying Scotsman loco feels like Triggers broom, its has 2 new motors (1st kept shorting the track, 2nd just buzzed), new valve gear, new pickups (running slow), new tender (HM7000 burned out, literally and melted the socket) and just returned back today after having new casing (running slow after 2nd motor fitted). Mallard has had 2 new motors and pickups, Blink Bonny has had new valve gear, motor and front wheels realigned due to constant derailing. Night Hawk arrived Tuesday and keeps intermittently stalling on points. Called CS this morning for advice and they immediately pulled it back in for QC to take a look at.

[@HighFell]

I’m just not sure how achievable that’s going to be, it all depends on what motors etc are available. I’m actually very surprised how much better the eBay bargain basement one is than the OE one, although it will all hang on how long it lasts! At £1.50 doing one 5 times is cheaper than sending one back 😳 Is it slower than SK is at beginning of video?

[@DaveC1964]

Are you planning to use the coreless motor in any future upgrades, would be interesting to see how they run compared to the 3 pole

[@HighFell]

@@DaveC1964 that’s absolutely on the cards for the next one to go pop, Trigo is next, it’s starting to ‘stick’ and not moving off on start up which is a sign the brush fingers are jamming up as they burn off. I hope that there could be something really special to try though. I’ll let everyone know as soon as that happens. 👍

[@modelrailfan37]

This is not good. I haven’t been the biggest fan of Hornby’s build quality/quality control for the last few years. I don’t model in TT but rather in OO and I have a Hornby terrier with what I believe is the same motor and it is so bad it cogs at anything below 45% on my control. Glad to see this is an easy fix, but it’s a pity Hornby use these motors… I get why Hornby used them due to size constraints, but personally I think they should start using coreless motors.

[@HighFell]

It’s not just Hornby sadly, but it isn’t a great situation. I hope to have other options too 👍

[@modelrailfan37]

@@HighFell totally agree! Does another company also use these motors?

[@HighFell]

@@modelrailfan37 certainly many use motors with BE brushes and they fail.

[@modelrailfan37]

@@HighFell that’s not good! I wonder why they’d use motors with those brushes if they are known to fail?

[@HighFell]

@@modelrailfan37 we don’t know what assurances were given to manufacturers over life, motors are not made in house these days. I’m not sure how long BE brushes have been appearing in locos, some of the characteristics are very useful, low current draw, quiet, compact, smooth running (when ok) quite a few seem to have been caught out around the same time, even once mighty names like Roco/Fleishmann. I am fairly certain Hornby didn’t set out to install a dud motor specification. The have very quickly moved to alternatives on subsequent releases

[@47606odin]

Have you got a link for the motor for reference?

[@HighFell]

I’ll add it to ref when I dig it out 👍 hopefully later today

[@HighFell]

Link for tools and motors added 👍

[@little_britain]

It sounds like perhaps the worm gear needs repositioning on the spindle.

[@HighFell]

Not sure if you saw in video, it’s quite long, but I checked that and it wouldn’t affect the slow top speed. The brush fingers are definitely starting to come apart on the surface, I got a look through a magnifying glass, the material is delaminating. Couldn’t get that on camera. I also checked the worm position with other locos and it’s identical. Using the Helio Tape on the motor body has secured it in the mount much better than the sticky foam on Hornby one, I’m thinking the noise is the motor chattering in the housing. Anyway the fix is like day and night. 👍

[@little_britain]

​@@HighFellI am just watching it now, and yes it looks like it was brush wear. I would say these brushes were assembled misaligned, which is unfortunate.

[@HighFell]

@@little_britain the one with the burnt out ‘fingers’ has been bent out more to allow the camera to pick up the damage on the ends of the fingers, two have burnt off completely one is just hanging on. When the motor goes in reverse the short ends jam in the gap in the commutator. On the new motor when I pop the end cap off, alignment looks ok but the surface of the fingers is deteriorating already at 10mins of use. I think the delamination in the brush fingers is what is causing the poor performance, it’s making a poor contact, either that of a winding on the armature is damaged.

[@modeloco]

Oh dearly me. I guess 38 hours is a long time for many of us out there on the positive but, what a shame these motors are not really up to it or, have been manufactured to a lower standard. Very informative as usual 👍

[@HighFell]

@@modeloco Andy, the failures seem to be either very early, in first few hours or 30-35 hours. You have so many railways you would take years to log these hours, so if us are running a full TT timetable! Seriously it’s motor issue rather than just a Hornby one, loads of manufacturers are having issues. I’m more interested in workable solutions rather than engaging in the tantrums on KZbin some people do… nice carpet… There are options and before anyone gets on their high horses, I genuinely don’t believe any model manufacturer in the UK or abroad sets out to make a bad model 😁

[@grrfy]

As an rc enthusiast, those are some of the cheapest motors I have seen in years.

[@HighFell]

I presume you are not meaning this in a positive way! If you have experience of better (significantly better) quality motors in N20 dimensions please feel free to share information here, personally I would be happy to spend a sensible amount on better quality motors. 👍

[@grrfy]

@@HighFell The replacement is a lot better motor .I will check for some better n20 size and get back to you.why are Hornby using dirt cheap 3 pole none skew wound motors in what are meaqnt to be high end models,(judging by the price of their models) with no flywheels? I don't get it. edit to add, have a look on servo city ,robot shop, Pololu / Turnabo places like that.

[@HighFell]

@@grrfy actually flywheels are not such a big deal, a good 3 pole is better than a mediocre 5 pole but yes a top end one from the outset would have been more sensible, perhaps the accountants got involved! Thanks for the names, will follow up on those 👍

[@damianinCanadaTT-OO]

Sorry. Question the extra 0.9 pins come in short or long shaft sets. I assume either will need trimming so it doesn’t matter which one I order

[@HighFell]

You will need the long ones, a short one is standard in gear puller set with other diameters but too short for this job. You will need to trim 3mm of 1 long one, that will make it just long enough to start the worm gear moving, I’m not sure the heat was effective and trying to handle a hot motor was more of a hinderance. Once the trimmed one has bottomed out, swap to a longer one to complete the pull. Once the worm gear is moving it comes out the last part quite easily. The aim is to use the hole through the brass worm gear to support the pin as much as possible. 👍

[@kennethmaney914]

What can you expect... Motors should be number 1 in the list of these expensive toys, JUST BOYCOTT THESE FIRMS AND PASS IT ON. Will Hornby never learn... Don't buy anymore until they sort it. And don't believe KZbinrs who are only in it for clicks and views and MONEY...We all know who he is....

[@HighFell]

I’m more interested in finding solutions to problems than becoming the Greta Thunberg of model railways. I don’t know which KZbinr you could possibly mean?

[@pim1234]

What does Hornby say ?

[@HighFell]

They will always take on any issue and look to fix it, but the problem with that is they are still using a bit rubbish motor.

[@jsma9999]

THAT IS BAD sound.

[@HighFell]

I am wondering if that was the motor chattering in the mount, there was some movement even with the foam packing in place. If that was your car you wouldn’t drive it!

[@jsma9999]

@@HighFell I Thought that gears are not meshing buy that sound, As had OO scale Hornby Loco that blew a Motor and refitted make it more Louder Which I do not mind

[@olelauridsen666]

Lot of out of focus

[@HighFell]

Yep, that happens. 👍

[@Galacticmaster]

to be expected. loco looks like its running awful, watching alot of movement on the side bars. anyways its a market aimed at pure profit for struggling crappy hornby. nice video and layout though.

[@HighFell]

I wouldn’t say to be expected, particularly in consideration of the quality of the actual model itself, they are fantastic. Freeplay in linkage and, wheel sets and valve gear is sadly a necessity in models, they just wouldn’t be able to turn through the tight curves we have on model railways. A poor motor does accentuate that, if it was in diesel you wouldn’t notice it. Simply swapping the motor and she runs fine. I wouldn’t write Hornby off as you do, yes all companies exist to make a profit at some point but they have completely turned the hobby on its head with launching TT:120. A number of manufacturers have been caught out on these type of motors, the big test is getting the issue sorted. In the meantime, we have an easy home fix and I’m looking into some more options. 👍

[@Galacticmaster]

@@HighFell try kato lol and you will be blown away.

[@HighFell]

@Galacticmaster Kato have a good reputation for mechanisms but they are basic and oversize for the scale which does make a difference particularly in the running gear.

[@Galacticmaster]

@@HighFell they work though with good playability that's all modellers want ha

[@HighFell]

@Galacticmaster again, that’s not the whole story. If it were then Hornby Dublo 3rail would be still being made and the top seller. Glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for the comments on the layout 👍

[@AndrewKodachrome-qo9qs]

Made in China, what do you expect. I gave up on hornby when they shifted production away from the UK.

[@HighFell]

Not really helpful, most models are made in China and the overall quality is way beyond what could be achieved in UK. Most of the products you depend on will be made in China or contain Chinese components. My channel is focused to doing things and offering solutions to issues. Thanks 👍