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@gavinjohns7404 2 күн бұрын
There are so many types of 1k resistors: 1/8 watt, 1/4 watt, 1 watt etc. I skipped physics in school so would need a little guidance ;-)
@HighFell 2 күн бұрын
1/4 watt absolutely perfect for this application.
@HighFell 2 күн бұрын
I am experimenting with track power lighting set up, it’s more involved and a bit more skill to put together but the components work out cheaper.
@gavinjohns7404 2 күн бұрын
@@HighFell Funny you should say that. I've spent hours trying to find platform lamps. Even N scale at 65mm height (item description) seems too tall. I haven't even found info on the height of the real ones! BTW where did you find the telephone box at 1:120 or is it N scale? BTW I also have the Artitec tractor and trailer which are pricey but such quality.
@HighFell 2 күн бұрын
I sourced quite a lot of lights from Evemodel and repainted them etc. a lot of N gauge stuff is oversize so ideal for TT:120. Researching is varied! Check photos to get an idea for relative sizes, the phone boxes are 3D printed items off eBay, loads of TT:120 modelling trinkets there, I added glazing and a lights and repainted. A lot depends on the era and area you are modelling to what works 😁
@Alfiegould7822 2 күн бұрын
Looks very good , one the biggest TT:120 layouts I’ve seen, scenery is top quality 👍🏼
@HighFell 2 күн бұрын
Hi, thanks. The scale doesn’t just have to mean small layouts. It’s genuinely the first layout I have managed to get to do the scenery on! 👍
@JohnThomas-lc3hr 4 күн бұрын
Great find. In Australia here and new to this in retirement and love it but have had four motor failures as you describe, Hornby here are aware of problem but can do nothing but replace with same. Ridiculous as Night h\Hawk has failed twice in under 12months since I started. I have just begged Richard of TWW to start shipping to Australia. Maybe you could help. Tar
@HighFell 4 күн бұрын
Hi, this really could help for you guys overseas as I know it’s awkward returning stuff for warranty repair. If you buy via EBay then there should be an overseas delivery option?
@HighFell 4 күн бұрын
Richard has added overseas shipping to his eBay listings. 👍
@maxkin882 8 күн бұрын
Do you reccomend just swapping the 3-pole motor for a 5-pole one?
@HighFell 8 күн бұрын
Well that all depends if you can find a suitable one. A top quality 3 pole motor is better than a rubbish 5 pole one. There is not much wrong with a good quality 3 pole motor, I wouldn’t say these are ‘good quality’ though. A 5 pole motor has the advantage that its usually skew wound, that and the extra 2 poles improve smooth low rpm running. It’s also fair to say that 5 pole motors and Coreless tend to be higher quality due to the increased cost to produce them and the applications they often find themselves in demand better quality. I have not found an N20 5 pole motor so far, or even a 12v carbon brush N20, hence having to scavenge the carbon brushes and end cap from a 6v N20 and do a little tweak.
@maxkin882 7 күн бұрын
@@HighFell Glad to know that ill think about it more then thanks for the advice!
@gavinjohns7404 8 күн бұрын
Inspired by your lighting and passengers. When looking for 1k resistors there seemed several designations which left me confused so I gave up but thought I would ask you for the exact specs needed. Subscribed to your very informative channel.
@HighFell 8 күн бұрын
Just Google ‘Metal film 1k Ohm resistor’ loads will come up and cheaper than chips! Just check they are 1000 Ohm or 1k Ohm to get the lighting effect. These are easy to work with and easy to solder. 👍
@StevenTT120Layout 17 күн бұрын
Very usefu,l thank you for doing this video
@HighFell 17 күн бұрын
No worries, hopefully no one needs it, but a useful reference to what goes where and how to get stuff apart without breaking anything. The service manuals these days don’t go any further than fitting a decoder.
@DaveC1964 17 күн бұрын
What is the loco?
@HighFell 17 күн бұрын
It’s a BR130, they were a Soviet loco, designed and built in Ukraine. This is actually the DDR state railways livery but they appeared all over Eastern Europe. Known as ‘Ludmilla’ they still run today, successful class. This is a Piko TT:120 model, they run extremely well.
@dinmorejunctionmodelrailway 17 күн бұрын
Oh yes. Yes. Yes
@HighFell 17 күн бұрын
What is better than a 50, two 50s 😁 Running these as a consist on HM 7000 sound decoders, sound amazing, especially when they go in and out of sync 😁
@dinmorejunctionmodelrailway 17 күн бұрын
@HighFell I have over 30 Class 50s in OO with 3 sound decoders I've never installed as most have sound, but with the Accurascale Class 50s due, it seems pointless to install them.
@justinclayton3022 23 күн бұрын
Going well so far. I suppose if OEM motors lasted 30-35 hrs testing needs to be a bit longer. Maybe 70hours, unless Richard has already done that.
@HighFell 23 күн бұрын
No, I am taking on the task of doing the bulk of the test in this. He has loads on and I have time and layout down etc. about this stage on an OE motor it’s getting noisy and usually not so smooth in reverse so it’s looking good so far. I’m trying to make sure it’s getting ‘proper’ use too, not just continual loops round. Get the stop start and reverse in etc. that’s the thing that’s harder to simulate on a test circuit, some one would literally have to sit and ‘play’ trains for days on end!
@andywilliams4116 24 күн бұрын
Hi High feller, Another great mod to the TT120 range and yet more cost for me! 🙄 Ordered as my motors in my A1 & A3’s sound like a Class 50 with it’s sound on now! 😱🙄
@HighFell 24 күн бұрын
I am very impressed with 50, one will be appearing on High Fell soon 😁
@andywilliams4116 24 күн бұрын
@@HighFell hi High, Yeah you did seem pretty impressed with the big blue beast, and I presumed one would be arriving soon. I’m currently sticking with steam but never say never huh? 🤔😉 Oh yeah, I eventually sorted my reverse loop with some DCC products. Thanks again for all your help. Cheers 🍻 Andy
@HighFell 24 күн бұрын
@andywilliams4116 I am looking forward to early livery versions of things like the 50, 37 etc That change over period was always something I wanted to model as there is such a wide variety. Glad you have made progress with reverse loop. What was your soloution?
@andywilliams4116 23 күн бұрын
Hi High, 😂 I may follow suit with an early scheme diesel on my LiTTlewick layout one day?? 🤔😉 The loop was resolved with a Lenz LK200 from KMS which initially didn’t work. However KMS were Very helpful and they contacted DCC Concepts who suggested a DCC Alpha sniffer?? (I’ve no idea what that is, and it doesn’t even smell of anything I can detect? 🤔) This too did not work initially, so I contacted DCC concepts who were also very helpful and the said to try a DCC concepts power supply. I was using the Hornby one in the sets which gave 15V DC. So got the DCC concepts power supply and after much jiggering about it works fine now! 🎉👍😁 Track gets 12V DCC according to the little track testing gizmo I got. 🙄 I know, it’s witchcraft huh?😮 So everything is going well now……… Well, thats apart from my Willy Whitelaw sounding like the class 50 with a horrible grinding motor. Luckily you provided a fix so a coreless motor from TWW is on order. Night Hawk died completely on Saturday, contacted Hornby Monday who said send an email which I did, they now say they will reply in 7 days! 😳🙄 Think it’s the decoder as Bluetooth symbol now red instead of blue…….. Think that’s about it now, so just going to check what’s left in the piggy bank for any other issues that may crop up…. Still enjoying it though (I think??🤔😉)
@HighFell 23 күн бұрын
@@andywilliams4116 quite a bit going on there, I use the DCC Concepts ‘snubbers’ they are a good idea to protect against surges and spikes which modern electronics do not like. I mentioned before that Hornby are planning a DC and DCC RLM (reverse loop module) but there is no release date yet. All the other RLM’s I have seen are DCC only, so they will never work with DCC track power which is a form of AC. 12v is too low for DCC really, the track power ideally should be 14-15v. A proper multimeter would be very useful, £15 from Screwfix etc will get a good one. Make sure it has AC and DC voltage measuring capability. Grinding motor is a sign the BE brushes are failing. The coreless one on test here is going strong, as are the ones with the swapped end caps and brushes. The decoder not linking could be the lack of voltage on the track feed. The first things to check are clean track, clean wheels and the pick wipers are touching the wheel backs. Then pop the tender body off, check videos on that, and make sure the decoder is properly seated. Best way is remove and re-insert, it should be a firm audible click. Close the app and power down your controlling device. Re boot it all. Have you installed the Bluetooth Update? Latest one is v7
@Northerner_Transport_Hub 25 күн бұрын
Hi there mate, saw your comments on Hornby's post regarding Kelly Ashford. Have you had any trouble with her besides her irritating comments popping up everywhere? I've dropped you a subscriber as you seem to have an excellent passive-aggressive way of dealing with her. All the best from Joe/NTH
@HighFell 25 күн бұрын
No specific trouble other than I am fed up of people trying to trash the hobby. Some trolls need to be told 🤣 Nice to have you along. As you can see TT:120 brought me back to the hobby and loving it more than ever. Too many unfinished OO projects, now I have time and space. 👍
@Northerner_Transport_Hub 25 күн бұрын
@@HighFell nice one mate, it's fun to mess with her a little bit isn't it?
@johnyates4163 27 күн бұрын
A pretty convincing demonstration, mine are ordered to convert my four current A3/A4's.
@HighFell 27 күн бұрын
Even if it was just for the slow and super smooth running, it’s compelling! Maybe I should have negotiated commission with Richard 🤣 but it’s not the way I work. 👍
@gregstacey8215 27 күн бұрын
Sorry another question... do you run your locos via Bluetooth?
@HighFell 27 күн бұрын
I use a traditional DCC controller and a mix of HM 7000 and Zimo decoders in locos. The HM 7000 locos are set up using the HM DCC App, it is superb. I prefer tactile controls. I am looking to update the Dynamis Ultra controller but not blown away with what’s out there at the moment.
@gregstacey8215 27 күн бұрын
Very pleasing... I can see this will encourage a lot of people to swap. I'm not sure what you mean by lower range temperature strips? What are they? I suspect BBD will be inundated.
@HighFell 27 күн бұрын
To get data on motor temps, ‘tell tale temperature strips’ were stuck on the tops of the motors. Service limit on Coreless motors is 100-125C. Higher on an iron core motor. ‘Internet Experts’ suggested both coreless and OE motors ran ‘hot’ and that caused failure, while exceeding service temp will cause failure I couldn’t see these motors were routinely running in excess of 125C! I got strips with a range of 70-116C and after all the running, zero. So I popped a lower range strip in. Peak temps are under 25C. In serviceable state these motors do NOT run hot. Although a failing motor will run hot. Cause and Effect is easy to misunderstand without data. The Temperature Strips are used in all sorts of applications. The strip reacts at different temperatures and a die leaks into an indicator panel marked with temperature graduations recording the highest temperature.
@47606odin 27 күн бұрын
Great, and a good explanation of what’s causing the issue. Well, let’s hope Hornby beef up future Carden shafts
@HighFell 27 күн бұрын
Thank you. At the manufacturing stage there would be a few options open to them to eliminate this issue. It will interesting to see which they choose
@triangttvstilligtt1184 27 күн бұрын
Great vid just want to check something The narrow end off the new driveshaft goes in the flywheel..
@HighFell 27 күн бұрын
It isn’t essential but it would be better from an engineering aspect. The ‘clatter’ or catching will be on the bogie end because of the articulation, it’s reduced at the motor end. The ‘fuse’ function is better served near the drive source. Do come back with any observations in running 👍
@HighFell 25 күн бұрын
Been speaking with Richard at TWW, he has shown and issue on the 43 shaft, in light of that I am recommending for a belt and braces approach, thick end into motor end. This more to counter any possible flex in the shafts.
@triangttvstilligtt1184 24 күн бұрын
@HighFell the class 43 has problems too mines ok at the moment but I'll keep an eye on it. Thanks .
@gregstacey8215 27 күн бұрын
Great video again... I've just ordered one and am looking forward to installing it.
@HighFell 27 күн бұрын
I have done an update video on the testing process and some speed step 1 running, it’s pretty impressive stuff! 😁
@mf303 27 күн бұрын
Another great video, thanks, even if it is about to cost me more money! Although🤞 I’ve had no issues yet (although I think the coupling on one end of one of my 50s is a little tight).
@HighFell 27 күн бұрын
I’d loosen the cab floor and see if that frees it off. Not all 50’s pop shafts, a lot depends on layout and min radius and the shaft has to catch on the slots in the drive cup. If yours runs fine leave her be and save the pennies 😁
@mf303 27 күн бұрын
I din’t think it wouldn’t be a bad thing to have a pair of new shafts in the spares box. No issues with them so far, and my layout’s minimum curve is radius 3. And yes, I will take the body off Sir Edward and loosen the cab screws slightly. Thanks for the info!
@stephendehavilland5254 28 күн бұрын
Excellent video 🙂 18:24 ..."less than ideal.." Good old British understatement.. Ladder man goes on holiday to High Fell!!
@HighFell 28 күн бұрын
Ladderman caused problems with barrels of stolen custard from Dylington….. Thunberg Petrochemicals are involved… 😳
@stephendehavilland5254 27 күн бұрын
@@HighFell need to get Red Buffers involved in the clean up. 🙂😃
@HighFell 27 күн бұрын
I understand Red Buffers has lost the nameplate…..
@bobslobs 28 күн бұрын
Excellent , love the coaster.
@HighFell 28 күн бұрын
Me too, special gift 😁
@timallen_uk 28 күн бұрын
The Class 50 is amazing. Had a few issues with the drive shaft but with it being out the box I still say its down to the way Hornby (or rather the sub contractor) have been packing them in the larger cartons allowing them to rock around in transit. Btw, go on buy one! you know you want a class 50! :)
@HighFell 28 күн бұрын
Absolutely no way the cardan shaft can come out from shaking, it is exactly the reason in video. Using established engineering techniques normally employed in high performance projects has confirmed it. 😁 I really want an early one … But….. 🤣
@mf303 27 күн бұрын
I dropped one of my 50s and the shafts stayed put!
@HighFell 27 күн бұрын
@@mf303 I hope the 50 survived better than a loco I dropped. Hit a metal tool box draw on way down… a lot of pieces. It was a Tillig destined to be returned under warranty… non runner out of the box. It happens ☹️
@timallen_uk 27 күн бұрын
@@mf303 it has to be poorly fitted then as one failed out the box and the repair just ran really slowly.
@HighFell 27 күн бұрын
Did the shaft come out of the slow runner?
@DodgesTT120 28 күн бұрын
Do u sell the coasters?
@HighFell 28 күн бұрын
I need to speak with the Artist who created it. I can sell you an NFT for one….Crypto only
@_RandomPea 28 күн бұрын
I wish i understood this 😂😂... How much are the motors? And are they providing them for older x04 style? Id love to have a really easy conversation for old 80s 90s motors
@HighFell 27 күн бұрын
There is a link in description to supplier. At this point it is a TT:120 soloution for a problem motor. I might be wrong but I thought the older motors in other scales are pretty well covered. Let me know what you don’t understand 😁👍
@_RandomPea 27 күн бұрын
@@HighFell amazing. Thanks 👍
@bobslobs 28 күн бұрын
Thankyou for all the work you do, people like yourself and peachy are making a real difference.
@HighFell 28 күн бұрын
Thanks for the kind words. TT:120 has really established itself as a scale with a strong positive and friendly community. Onwards and upwards 😁
@ianhughes-zf1ll 28 күн бұрын
Hi I will try and look for it but I seem to get lost in the forums but any videos would be a great help thank you
@HighFell 28 күн бұрын
d63oxfkn1m8sf.cloudfront.net/1217/0065/0861/HM7000_Series_Decoders_Reference_Manual_V1.3.0_-_201123.pdf
@ianhughes-zf1ll 28 күн бұрын
@@HighFell thank you awesome
@HighFell 28 күн бұрын
@@ianhughes-zf1ll I’ll take that 🤣 no problem. I’ll still try and produce something that hopefully helps along with the manual 👍
@ThisWayWorksTWW 28 күн бұрын
Lovely Video 👍, I cant believe how many hours you have racked up on it!😁 It is important to get non biased reviews and especially from someone who knows his technical stuff! all the best Rich
@HighFell 28 күн бұрын
Cheers Richard, likewise it’s great to see premium quality work being done. I was quite an effort to do the hours! I had to play trains for days! 🤣
@ThisWayWorksTWW 28 күн бұрын
@@HighFell 😂, "Im not playing"... Its research! 😂😂
@HighFell 28 күн бұрын
@@ThisWayWorksTWW I’m going to get a lab coat and a clipboard then it can be proper research 🤣
@andybuckley8641 24 күн бұрын
@@HighFell don't forget the spotted dickie bow too - also save on hairdressing costs...
@StevenTT120Layout 28 күн бұрын
Well done 👍
@HighFell 28 күн бұрын
Thanks. Team effort 👍
@RodericCeorlred 28 күн бұрын
Another upcoming option, many thanks for the video! I've tried the other kit recently (the micromotors one) as I came across it at my local model shop. Its original motor is really short (in fact, 4,6 mm too short) and is a bit low in torque. So I'd ordered some more motors (all at 16 mm in length and with dual spindle, but different in diameter) and some different flywheels just for a bit of testing & trying on Falcon and a 08 shunter. Does the motor in Richard's kit have two spindle ends?
@HighFell 28 күн бұрын
This motor is a dual shaft one so could accommodate a flywheel although I haven’t found it necessary. The smaller motor I think is compromised as result of its smaller size. In other tests small coreless motors can’t manage the heat well and break up. Please come back with any developments trying your ideas 👍
@timallen_uk 28 күн бұрын
Nice video, thanks for all the investigation you've done with these videos. I only hope Hornby are watching and start doing something similar to this when the old motors fail and get repaired.
@HighFell 28 күн бұрын
Thanks Tim, I know there a few people at Hornby who subscribe and are following things so here is hoping they do some follow up work to f they are not already on the same page 😁👍
@garryhall5552 28 күн бұрын
Already ordered some and waiting for delivery.
@HighFell 28 күн бұрын
Richard has tried these with DC to buy bulk of testing was with me on DCC. It will be interesting to hear what you think Garry. They are super smooth and seem to have good motive power.
@garryhall5552 28 күн бұрын
@HighFell Hopefully here soon Matt even though Ebay states next Wednesday. I am guessing he bought a few although Ebay only had 5 for sale. My hard part is which locos to fit them in. I think I will do various ones like the Jubilee, W/C etc to give a broad spectrum of my locos a chance and not just A4's.
@michaelderozario5626 27 күн бұрын
I’ve fitted coreless motors to a few of my n gauge locomotives as has Richard from TWW. Completely transforms them imo.
@HighFell 27 күн бұрын
@@michaelderozario5626 good to hear actual experience from others, thank you 👍
@mf303 29 күн бұрын
Excellent, thank you! I can see me ordering three of these as soon as Richard gets more in stock!
@HighFell 28 күн бұрын
I didn’t realise he has sold out so soon! It’s a really nice kit and easiest to install which was important.
@ThisWayWorksTWW 28 күн бұрын
They are back in stock! rookie mistake by me 😶🌫😁
@mf303 28 күн бұрын
@@ThisWayWorksTWW and I’ve ordered 3 😊
@hollybushrailway 29 күн бұрын
Very interesting video, thanks! After having so many motor issues early on, I'm glad to say that since I switched out my (old, second hand) Gaugemaster to a Morley Vortrak I've not had any problems since, touch wood the motors I have now will keep working for a while. It's good to know what options I have other than just hoping that Hornby will continue to fix things if anything does pack in again.
@HighFell 28 күн бұрын
Don’t worry Dave, we will keep your ‘wee’ trains moving 😁 I think between us we have clocked a few hours and actually put the OE motors to the limit of what they can do. I will interesting to see if the Varley controller helps the motors live longer on DC.
@ianhughes-zf1ll 29 күн бұрын
Another very informative video thanks . Have you done any videos on changing the cv’s values as I haven’t got a clue I have a couple of locos that I think are slow and wondering if that’s the problem . Thank you
@HighFell 28 күн бұрын
I haven’t as yet. One little issue is I film via my phone that I also use to do anything with the HM DCC App. What CVs are you thinking about or are you just finding a loco slow and don’t know? What loco is it?
@ianhughes-zf1ll 28 күн бұрын
@@HighFell hi again it’s the flying Scotsman
@HighFell 28 күн бұрын
@@ianhughes-zf1ll ok, I’ll put something together on video. Have you read the manual for HM 7000/DCC? It’s really well written and not as scary to understand than any other literature I have seen on DCC. If you go to Hornby website, on menu select communities, Forum, HM 7000/DCC there is a stickie at top with links to all the guides and manuals . I’ll still see what Incan put together on some bits too. 👍
@garryhall5552 Ай бұрын
Lovely description on how to go about it. As you say removing the windows can be so different due to how much glue was used.
@HighFell Ай бұрын
These MK1s seem to have only a small amount in most places but I repainted some Pullmans for a friend it was impossible to get the glazing strip out without shattering all the plain sections. Luckily a lot of time and patience I got it all back together but I used Humbrol Maskol on the other coaches. I didn’t fancy pushing my luck further!
@garryhall5552 Ай бұрын
@HighFell Pullmans repainted, to what? As far as I can remember I only ever saw Met Cams in Grey and Blue but not the slab sided brakes. By that time Mk1 full brakes were used.
@HighFell Ай бұрын
@@garryhall5552It was a ‘special commission’ 😉
@WaterwaySongs Ай бұрын
Brilliant! I'll be making one of those.
@HighFell Ай бұрын
Great to hear, best compliment a modeller can get 😁👍
@piccadillymodelrailways Ай бұрын
Absolutely fantastic job there. I felt you were very brave to do this on cam, not only with the removal of the tape, but to do some of the white lining. Brilliant job!
@HighFell Ай бұрын
Thank you, it was either going to work or not! The lining took ages with phone in the way, I did the other side in no time without it. I was keen to show that although it’s a bit fiddly, it’s not actually that difficult. 😁
@garryhall5552 Ай бұрын
Excellent work as usual.
@HighFell Ай бұрын
@@garryhall5552 Thanks Garry and thank you sharing the info about RailTec Transfers, used quite a few of their products and very impressed. 👍
@garryhall5552 Ай бұрын
@HighFell it is just a pity Railtec do not do any loco transfers for LNER/LMS etc but I guess these days most modellers are what I would call modern image. 70's onwards. I did ask Steve if he would do a sheet of coach roundels a while ago but so far nothing. The thing is he puts 3 on a sheet for a Warship diesel so should be easy to use the artwork on a plainsheet with about 30 on.
@dinmorejunctionmodelrailway Ай бұрын
"I'm lovin it" McDonald's receipt 19.16 mins Cracking job on your coaches.
@HighFell Ай бұрын
Ha ha, The McDonalds receipt! Was out walking brothers dogs yesterday and some scummy urchin threw their litter down the road. Not bright enough to realise they can be identified by the receipt. Logged it with the local council, someone won’t be loving that fine! I must have added the photo as I knitted the video clips together, it could have been 3 daft dogs too! Thanks 😁👍
@dinmorejunctionmodelrailway Ай бұрын
I never thought about the receipt as a means to identify the person. Thanks for the info
@HighFell Ай бұрын
It wasn’t meant to be here but a useful tip for those of us who hate littering. The order number on fast food receipts will tie up with ANPR/CCTV at the drive through or car park cameras.
@dinmorejunctionmodelrailway Ай бұрын
@HighFell but in all honesty, the authorities sit back and do nothing. Still we live in hope
@davidnewby6095 Ай бұрын
unfortunately all you've made is a ck minus its first class branding not a true sk the window arrangement and spacing gives the game away shame i was excited when i first saw the video.....
@HighFell Ай бұрын
That’s not entirely correct, SK is a designation rather than a fixed specification. The specifications of the MK1 SK did vary and there were various modifications done by BR in service downgrading 1st to Standard classes etc so in that respect it’s on the money. You can be excited again 👍 Thanks for watching 😁
@stephendehavilland5254 Ай бұрын
Very well done Rallymatt. 🙂
@HighFell Ай бұрын
Thanks 😁
@andywilliams4116 Ай бұрын
Hi High Fell, 😁 Great details and I’m happily stealing quite a few of them. 👍 Couple of questions…. What backscenes have you used on this, as I’m looking for something similar. Next, how you do the reverse loop? I bought a Lenz LK200 module which unfortunately wont work with HM7000 and the Hornby power supply! 😢 Apparently the Hornby power supply is 15V DC and the majority of RLM’s work on 15V AC (all a bit black magic to me?? 🤔🙄) so I’m still stumped with this. 😡 Any help or pointers hugely appreciated. Oh yeah, your graunching motors issue you posted, my Willy Whitelaw and the Night Hawk making some unpleasant noises now so any update on the supply or replacement options for carbon brush/ motors?? Sorry for all the questions which are a bit off topic?? 😊
@HighFell Ай бұрын
You are welcome to use any ideas 😁 The main loop backscenes are from ID, Dales and Moors in N. OO always looks oversize for TT:120. The quayside is a Gaugemaster Industrial one again in N but it would have been better if it was taller, like the ID one. Loads of choice but avoid the fancy glues, they don’t work. I prefer carpet tape now, some backscenes are ready self adhesive. Any wet glues will play havock with the printed backscene paper no mater how good it says they are. Wallpaper would be ideal! With RLM, the majority are configured to work with AC as per regular DCC track power. However it’s possible to make a DC RLM or if you can wait the new Hornby one will work both AC and DC but it’s still in development AFIK. Something to consider with RLM is if you are ‘double heading’ the current draw on the RLM may exceed what it can easily supply, I have just swapped out the Lenz unit for a Tam Valley ‘Frog Juicer’ that can be set up for both powering live point frogs or to act as a RLM, it has adjustable current settings. It will be a similar situation if you had an HST, both power cars having decoders, lights and sound, you will get a temporary stall and possibly drop in performance with the Lenz unit. If that’s not an issue, you could consider using a suitable AC power supply and the Lenz RLM will work with that fine.
@HighFell Ай бұрын
As to motors, Hornby will look after any customer with motor repairs but they are currently only fitting the same spec as OE. You can check the videos I have done on DIY fixes. You can replace the end cap with the same BE brushes from a motor available on EBay, easiest, swap to an end cap with carbon brushes again from a motor available on EBay a little harder as the end cap needs preparation. There is no 12v N20 carbon brush motor currently available for a direct swap.
@andywilliams4116 Ай бұрын
Hi High, 🤔😂 many thanks for your replies and info. I’ll look into the AC power supplies or maybe just wait for the Hornby RLM…… Still building at a leisurely pace. Benefits of retirement and “other” hobbies.😉🏍️ I’ll look to get some end caps for the motor issues when they become unbearable, but it’s a shame Hornby don’t currently offer any spare bits for us tinkerer’s to play with huh? Again, thank you much for your help and keep up the good work. TT120 is a lotta fun eh? Cheers Andy
@andywilliams4116 Ай бұрын
Hi High Feller (again), Thanks again for all your help, you stated that I could use a “suitable” AC power supply that would work with the LENZ unit? Please forgive my ignorance, but would the TT120 locomotives work with an AC supply? (If so what type/ rating?) They are DC and after a little look on the interweb I see that some say they will work if they have ‘series’ motors. Really don’t want to fry the whole set up before I get to grips with it. Still building slowly, but would like to resolve the loop issue before adding the detail & scenics. Cheers Andy
@andywilliams4116 Ай бұрын
Oh yeah, what height backscenes did you use? 9” or 15” The ID info states N scale are 9”. Just checking……… sorry again for all the questions.😢
@trevorbell3571 Ай бұрын
Thank you, very helpful.
@HighFell Ай бұрын
Thank you, I found it a really great technique 👍
@stephensonsdynamometer6747 Ай бұрын
Very pleased to see this solution practically realized. Well done! Bee
@HighFell Ай бұрын
Thanks Bee, it’s all about making things work 😁
@gregstacey8215 Ай бұрын
I have just replaced the end cap with carbon bushes in a failed motor from an 08 shunter following your advice/videos with success... now running smoothly. Many thanks for taking the trouble to make these fantastic videos and sharing your skills and knowledge... absolutely brilliant.
@HighFell Ай бұрын
Delighted you got your shunter going again. I can’t take all the credit as a few people have been contributing to various elements of the fixes 👍 It’s going to be interesting to hear how your shunter goes long term, I haven’t had to do mine yet but the stop start and reverse work does seem to be the thing that does for the OE motor brushes.
@47606odin Ай бұрын
Could you not just cut the end of the shaft off instead of swapping the bearings? There is no flywheel after all
@HighFell Ай бұрын
If you had precision measuring and cutting tools, that would be possible however the fixes are aimed at what is realistically possible for most modellers. The additional section of shaft also aids refitting the end cap, it centres the assembly but isn’t as likely to fall off as with a very short tail. Drilling the cover plate isn’t practical either, it’s stainless too.
@ejm9716 Ай бұрын
Good video. Do you think replacement carbon brush motors will be available soon, rather than replacing the end cap, so the whole motor could be replaced? That might be a bit simpler!
@HighFell Ай бұрын
I think that could well be something that is being looked at, it would be a very effective way forward. I spoke with someone from Hornby today who suggested a range of motor alternatives are being looked at. Despite what some commentators suggest, they are constantly developing and refining models. I suggested a motor pre fitted with worm drive reducing the operation down to body off, de solder motor connection swap out and re solder. I can’t speak for Hornby it sounds like this is being worked on. Until then these videos are options. 👍
@ejm9716 Ай бұрын
@@HighFell many thanks.
@DrAl60103 Ай бұрын
This has been a problem brewing in N Gauge for quite some time - these (cheap) 3 pole wiper brushed motors in a 1015 sized can have been used for quite some time by Farish in particular and smaller flavours by Dapol. Both have extensively been seen to exhibit the same type of failures - I've had to repair a lot. Notably though - the reason for this is yet to be definitively reached - but in my own experience with these there has been a direct correlation with most of them being used on DCC systems. I suspect that the truth here is that the brush wipers are being burnt down by arcing between the brushes and commutator (evidence you've seen on yours with the scoring of the commutator). I suspect at least part of the culprit here is PWM pulses or feedback from the chips, causing full power pulses that accentuate the arcing that always happens at the point of commutation. This can be the case with DC also, where feedback or PWM is used - it may be down to the frequency of PWM or suchlike also, but getting this solved is not easy without proper controlled testing. [I've seen someone burn the brushgear through in only 2 or so hours using the wrong controller - in that case a Hornby HM2000 with feedback on N gauge]. In terms of replacing with carbons - these will be better, but can open a different problem down the line. The Farish 66, 57, 37, 47s all came with such a motor from factory and these are now failing due to the commutators getting clogged up with carbon, particularly in the slots. This is, of course, just normal open frame motor maintenance, but with these semi-sealed motors, it can be a major pain to sort out (in the Farish models, you're having to pull flywheels to get access) - and I've seen quite a few motors burnt out as a result. So keep an eye on the current consumption of this over time - if it starts to rise you may be getting commutator slot clogging, which will start to semi-short things, and may need to pull the end cap again to clean this out, before the extra power dissipated leads to full failure. Oh for the days of the 5 pole open frame motor - they were superior for maintenance as compared these motors.
@HighFell Ай бұрын
I do know there have been reported failures on DC and DCC but I did find an advice sheet from Maxon who are a well respected motor manufacturer for industrial equipment. They specifically quote BE brush motors are NOT Suitable for frequent stop/start and reverse running. Which is pretty much what we do with model locomotives. It will be interesting to see how this carbon brush conversion fares long term. The next stage will be coreless options. Thanks so much for the information and experience from N. I did think the commutator could well get contaminated with carbon debris. Glad I am am thinking on the right lines 👍
@DrAl60103 Ай бұрын
@@HighFell Bear in mind that the coreless motors have exactly the same commutation arrangement - certainly the small 6 and 7mm diameter ones Farish also use. These seem to have a lower failure rate, but the ones I've seen failed are exclusively from DCC users. Coreless also absolutely must be configured right on DCC also, as they don't have the same back-emf characteristics as iron cored motors - if done wrong this can also cause burnouts. I remain suspicious of arcing being the true cause - and PWM is basically a stop-start thing in terms of electricity. Sadly, the best possible replacement for these - namely the motors made by Mashima (5 pole, carbon brushed) are no longer made after the owner retired. None of these Hornby/Farish motors (which look to be identical) come close to the quality of those. Bear in mind that Maxon make the best. By comparison, these are el-ultra-cheapo from China at around a quid each [so that means they must cost pennies to make], so I'd wonder if they even have precious metal in them. At least cheap spares can be had on ebay - Farish want 22 quid a motor for one of their spares - which is just not practical. Would be interested to know of the source of the 6V brushed motors for end caps.
@HighFell Ай бұрын
@@DrAl60103 thanks for the heads up. I’m no electrical expert so always happy to accept new information. The saving grace for the TT locos is that a new N20 motor is very cheap! It’s a shame the instead of tech moving us forward, it’s actually a bit rubbish. By comparison Piko who are a long time player in HO and TT, seem to be able to make motors that are very durable and capable and happy with both DC and DCC control systems and the locos are extremely good value. 😉 I put a link in a later video for the Carbon Brush motors although I said 6v they are 3.7-4.2v
@RodericCeorlred Ай бұрын
Things are starting to get a bit tricky for me, I guess. After getting tired of returning the same A4 for the foutrh time for letting Hornby exchange a blown-up motor into a soon-to-blow-up replacement (and the messing up with customs about why it is going back as a warranty issue again), I've sent an email to sb-Modellbau customer service with an enquiry for a custom-made motor replacement. That would be a coreless motor, with at least one flywheel, if they can find enough space for that.
@HighFell Ай бұрын
Check out MicroMotors.EU, they do a coreless replacement for the Hornby OE motor, no flywheel but probably available locally for you 👍I haven’t tested one yet but I did fit one in Roco BR108 after Roco decided not to honour their warranty.
@RodericCeorlred Ай бұрын
@@HighFell Had the same issues with Roco as well, both with HO and TT scale models. I went for a conversion kit for my Roco 0-6-0 DB class 80 tank engine. The conversion was easy to do (a bit of soldering and screwing) and the model is running very smoothly since then. And this at about 130 working hours.
@mf303 Ай бұрын
I thought I’d missed a bit 😂
@HighFell Ай бұрын
No, it was me 😁
@mf303 Ай бұрын
Another very informative video - thank you!
@HighFell Ай бұрын
Thanks, KZbin can be a force for good too 😁
@ngaugefouroaksstreetstatio6932 Ай бұрын
Great video, I learned a fair bit also. I had a Farish 108 n gauge motor fail, when i got the end cap off it seemed to be filled with like a sludge, very surprising. The motor had been working intermittingly and tripping my short protectors, i have now replaced the motor. Thankyou for sharing.
@HighFell Ай бұрын
Glad it’s helped in another scale too. I don’t think a lot of these ‘new’ motors have lived up to the promises made to manufactures.