Hot Tub Controller Hack part 1

Link to this video's blog posting.
www.toddfun.com...
A friend has a Coleman hot tub from 1994 and the controller has failed. It's a strange failure and I think I can modify the controller and add a hacked in a cheap Chinese temperature control module along with a switch to turn the jets on/off while still using 90% of the original control board.
In this part (part 1 video) I'm going to review the hot tub failure and a possible hack solution.
In part 2 video I setup a test rig and evaluate what is functional and reusable on the original control board. Then I test out an override hack that will let me control the defunct features using a simple 5 volt control line.
• Hot Tub Controller Hac...
In part 3 video I test the final hacked hot tub control at the bench.
• Hot Tub Controller Hac...

bigclivedotcom video I refer to in my video
• Neat Chinese thermosta...
Where I purchased my Chinese temperature control module
www.ebay.com/it...
You can help support my channel by purchasing items from my Amazon Store at no additional cost simply by using my store links.
I have lots of store categories and I own most items or similar items that you'll find in my store.
astore.amazon.c...
Thanks for joining and please subscribe to my KZbin channel.
/ toddrharrison

[@regthebackyardjackofalltrades]

Todd, Thank you for this video. I'm at the verge of removing my 2003 Sundance Capri Spa because I cannot get the temperature to increase. Everything works except the temperature increase button. I've ohm'ed out all wires pertaining to the heat control(low temp, high temp, flow switch and the expensive heating element). even though I got a good resistance levels out of them I replaced them because the Spa company said I could have a small resistance difference which is causing me not to increase the temperature. I didn't believe that but I also didn't want to spend close to $500 for a panel for one button that's not working. I even removed my topside panel to reset the ribbon tape but found out that it has been epoxied to the circuit board. If it was some type of waterproof potting compound I would have been better off since it has some elasticity to it, but epoxy is like cutting or drilling into fine ceramic. I tried SpaDayz method and will build jumpers so that I can remove the jumpers without damaging the wires. only because I don't want to have a higher electric bill because the system is heating up warmer that usual. Do you also have a part number for the panel you are installing? I will look at part 2. Also I'm looking to learn how to find one bad wire in my sealed ribbon tape. If I can fix that, I'll be saving a lot of heartache. I also hope the Williy's Electronic Store in National City California has the required parts. Reg.

[@ToddFun]

Well, I see you fixed your problem. I'm glad I was able to help a little.

[@sailork3506]

My spa is small and a bit simpler. One speed motor, no heater--friction of the water in the pump heats the water whenever the motor is running. Problem is, once it starts running to heat up the water, and then stops when the water is hot, I cannot restart the jets with the "jets" button on the display. It takes about 15 minutes after the pump has stopped normally for it to reset. When I press the jets button, the led by the button lights up and I can hear the motor (and ozone, which is unused) relays click. So, after the spa motor stops, I hit the jets button, leave the led light on (the led will toggle with each jets button press), and after it resets, it restarts automatically. OR, if I just wait 15 minutes for reset and then hit the jets button, it will start then. Of course, in the reset 15 minute period, we want to use the spa and have the motor running, but cannot start the jets. I am thinking of a separate switch and a DPDT power relay to bypass the computer entirely and force the motor on. Its a pretty simple circuit and leaves the computer entirely intact when the bypass switch is off. There is no flow switch, no separate heater to be careful of. The temp sensors are new (a temp sensor and a high--temp shutoff sensor) and the temp sensor reads properly. It does not throw any codes. Anyone have any thoughts?

[@ToddFun]

Your idea might work. Let me know how it goes if you try.

[@sageoliver8526]

Pulling my hair out with E02 error code..have done all the flow sensor, replace impeller in pump, change filter, stand on head , was loading the 38 when I found this and appreciated one more idea

[@jimmyboyles2868]

Aquarest AR-300P. Circuit board clicks when pushing bubbles button on top of hot tub. Digital read out is fine. Any ideas?

[@ToddFun]

Not really. Sorry.

[@tman6663]

Todd Harrison Hey Todd! I’ve got a 2014 120vlt softub spirit4 from Costco, it’s like brand new/barely used, I believe just needs a new topside control, because everything else works...but I can’t find the replacement anywhere on the planet ..apparently! Where do I find that by-pass control like you showed in your vid...or would that work on my 120vt Softub? I did not /cannot see the link for it..?

[@ToddFun]

No way to really know if it will work for you or not. That kind of understanding requires intense circuit evaluation. My controller I used: www.ebay.com/itm/XH-W1411-12V-Multi-functional-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-Control-Switch-/401234031407

[@patjohn775]

Super easy to use arduino to monitor those sensors

[@vehasmaa]

Nice series...

[@ToddFun]

More to come, 2nd video is in edit.

[@voidofmind]

Interesting

[@ToddFun]

Very! and still being used this winter.

[@themanthemyththelegend1392]

Whew lawd ---- HACK JOB, why not fix the board?

[@ToddFun]

I can't remember now. There must have been a good reason or I would have simply fixed any problems with the board first.