repair for Culligan water softener valve stuck - No More E1 code!

[@givo210]

Thanks so much for taking the time to post this video. It saves us anywhere from $1600-$9k as we were considering taking the advice of plumbers and replacing the unit. Our unit too had all of the same errors yours did, but we followed step by step and it works just fine now. Liked and subscribed, keep it up! 👍

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Glad it helped. When it warms up you may want to do this, made my 20 yr old unit like brand new. kzbin.info/www/bejne/f2rRlqF-ZZyWpZYsi=zl6Ch1PBYHEsu6fi

[@rakun1212]

$1600 to $9k? I’d get another quote.

[@LeoNimoy-g3s]

Like the video. Good comments below also about not using petroleum lube. To start, this did solve my problem. The plunger was really stuck in there. As a warning, when you pull out the plunger, be careful! I broke mine in half and had to order a new one. Luckily I found it online for $200. After the install of the new one, everything has been back to business as usual. Glad I found this video and it's still relevant as of this posting. Thank you House Doc!

[@delbrisson3495]

I was going to take the whole valve body apart, then got stuck when I couldn't get the control housing off. I then turned to this video. After watching the video, I realized that I actually had to take apart very little, just enough to get the main valve spool out. I cleaned up as shown and it works great now. This video saved a lot of time and money. Thank you.

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Glad it was helpful.

[@thombendtsen399]

There is no way I’m going to try this myself, but thanks for taking the time to do this. Very helpful for people that are mechanically brave. You also helped me to realize that I just need to call culligan and have a professional take care of it.

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Good luck. Post back and let us know what it cost.

[@thombendtsen399]

The “rebuild” with tax was $375.00. Not sure if they actually rebuilt it or cleaned it. I think we got off pretty easy.

[@joelujan5386]

Don’t use petroleum lube. Use a water base lubricant like silicone lubricant. The petroleum lube will jell over time and cause major problems. Plus you don’t need to remove the entire valve. It can be serviced while still on the tank. Just bypass water and pull the piston seal pack. Clean in and lube.

[@eddenson1]

Take this advice. I used petroleum lube and it worked for a couple months. Unit stopped working again and when i removed the black plastic the o rings were tearing apart and the lube jelled up. Pay the extra dollars.

[@mppetrikas4919]

I did exactly what Ray said, with the exception of removing the guts from the tank. E1 code problem fixed. Thank you!!!

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Awesome! Glad you fixed it.

[@gmprechtel]

Thank you! Your video helped me fix my water softener. Culligan parts were $200, but saved a technician's trip fee!😊

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Glad you fixed it Claire.

[@AlanAlejo-g4u]

This video was very helpful. I followed it step by step and worked out well. Probably saved me hundreds of dollars. Thank you

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Great news. That's what I'm here for.

[@kfredrichs7359]

hey, just did this due to the E-1 code. my softener is very much like the one here, maybe one version newer. worked great. did not need to remove the motor unit from the softener - just took the parts off as you described with it all connected to the tank. took the piston, metal rod, black hollow cylinder valve, and all filters off. my filters were actually pretty clean. went out and bought some danco grease and gooped it on the piston, metal shaft, and o-rings. my piston was pretty much stuck, which was the problem, so a bit of grease helped with the movement. just a couple of plastic parts operates this whole thing. just ran a regen mode and it went through without the E-1 code. success. thanks!

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Glad it worked out and you saved yourself some money.

[@rl5579]

Just another guy saying thanks. My softener was passing to the drain line, no error code showing but I could hear it and see it in the floor drain. I pulled the main shaft out and it was really sticky. I'm surprised that little motor could move it. I cleaned everything up and that seems to have solved the problem. So thanks for showing how to dismantle everything. The only thing is I wouldn't use vaseline, it can degrade plastic and rubber. I used silicone lubricant instead.

[@stevenbeckhamvideo]

I just followed along disassembling everything, rinsed the screen on the first little white piece without ever taking out the bigger black piece. Put it all back together and it’s working. Thank you!

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Glad it worked out for you.

[@larryhobson8628]

Wow, thanks alot! Had culligan repairman out here at least 3 times. It would work a little while and then get stuck again! This should save me alot in repair costs. Thank you so much!

[@silkscrim]

Did you figure out why it would get stuck again? It should be a long time before having to fix this issue again.

[@kwd-2023]

Cannot thank you enough for this video. I have a very very old culligan with no digital features. It would not shut off no matter what I did. I did exactly what you showed and if fixed the problem. Was thinking I was going to be out $600-$800 on a replacement. Kudos!

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Glad you were able to fix it.

[@richardrucker8860]

Sorry to comment twice, but I tried to comment to your comment to my comment - and I guess that is just too much for KZbin! Thank you, House Dr. Ray. You saved me hundreds of dollars. Honestly, for the Culligan Man to step into my garage, it starts at $200. A few notes. Some people report that petroleum jelly (aka Vaseline) should not be used. I tried in further investigate this, and this claim is challenging to fully accept at face value. The best I can say is the petroleum jelly “possibly, but not likely” could be a problem. Which is pretty vague. But silicon gel lube is likely better regardless - due to its reported longevity. And at a price close to $5 on Amazon (for SuperLube) I would simply use this instead - if you can wait for it to arrive. Next, if the top screw is just impossible for you to access and remove, then it is not a big deal to remove a single screw holding the switch assembly, and then remove the C-clamp holding that big white cam the sits in front of the top screw. This really only adds a few minutes to the overall procedure.

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Third time's a charm!

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Pool stores sell O-ring 'grease' that is water based and food safe. Vaseline 'might' affect pure rubber O-rings. I doubt the seals are pure rubber. Most likely some kind of Nitrile.

[@tonyp16]

Awesome video! Got mine fixed up in no time, thanks!

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Glad to hear it.

[@tjcarita]

Nice work! I do all my own fixing also. I was going to say something about you using a petroleum product for lubing O rings and seals but it looks like a few people beat me to it! But I'll add this. Petroleum will attack the rubber over time and can trap bacteria. Silicone grease is the right choice here. Other than that I really enjoyed watching your videos.

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Thanks Tony. I've never heard about the bacteria trapping before; I'll have to look into it.

[@normanlydell4208]

Thanks so much for the video. I thought I was in over my head but your step by step instructions proved to be a lifesaver.

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Glad it helped.

[@taylorjones1837]

You should check those O-rings. Mine got swollen because of the Vaseline. Bad decision that cost me $250 for a new piston

[@weatherman92k]

Followed your instructions to a tee and now have a working water softener. Thank you so much!

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Glad it worked.

[@richzebco]

awesome, just saved me $200 + dollars, I did not have to remove unit from tank as you said

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Great news. It feels good doing it yourself. Bonus is you saved a lot of money.

[@jonnya3302]

Awesome video, thanks Ray! I have a slightly newer unit but everything was basically the same; only difference was instead of two screws holding the valve body to the bypass valve there are two pins, so even easier to take off and replace. Main valve was even more stuck that yours. I got some o-ring grease from Home Depot and after reassembly it went through a full regen no problem. Even if it happens again I now know how to replace if needed. Saved me the time and money of calling the culligan man for such an easy fix!

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Great news! Glad you were able to fix it.

[@tadmortensen152]

$50.oo a visit

[@L3G3NDARYK1LL3R]

Haha I’m glad I watched the whole video and didn’t take it all apart right away!

[@ktmtbone]

Thank you for the excellent video. I followed your lead, I used the food grade silicone grease and it works like a champ. Thank You teacher. 🙏🏼

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Glad it worked for you.

[@1sylvan1]

Good video! I have almost...the identical unit. My motor is stuck and was considering getting an entire new unit since it’s 17 years old, but I’ll give this a try first! Thanks again!

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Definitely worth a shot. Mine is 20 years old. After doing this and replacing the resin it is like new! kzbin.info/www/bejne/f2rRlqF-ZZyWpZY

[@1sylvan1]

Worked! Thank you very much!!

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Awesome! Glad you got it fixed.

[@robertwimpenny5188]

Thanks for the help. I had an old manual timer and was able to access the valve without taking off from the tank. Got a slight leak, may need more Vaseline than I applied.

[@HouseDoctorRay]

A lot of times it just needs a little cleaning.

[@stevemckenzie9287]

I would suggest to leave the control on the tank. The white crust you see on the motor is a small leak that happens probably only in regen from the brine piston on top. This needs replaced with the seal pack or lower piston because a bad piston causes the code. The seals on the piston are torqued to a certain ft/lbs and shouldn't be taken apart. The white seals on the piston where originally black. Turning white is a sign that they are no longer good and may tear leading to a constant trickle of water to the drain. Vaseline also destroys rubber. Use silicone valve grease. It's cheap and won't destroy the rubber orings.

[@LogicalKlingon]

As a plumber with 20+ years of experience, I have to agree with Steve regarding the use of petroleum jelly on rubber parts. The best thing to use is silicone grease, or Moen grease. Kudos to House Doctor Ray on every other aspect of these easy to follow videos.

[@kevinwilliams8738]

Great video, thanks. The Owners Manual from Culligan also recommends; "Do NOT use petroleum lubricant as it will cause swelling of the rubber parts".

[@HouseDoctorRay]

If you can't find silicone grease you can use 'grease' from the pool store; it is water based.

[@hackwood710]

Your comment is mostly true, but the seals on older units were indeed white. They were only changed to black in the past few years.

[@ronkloiber]

You can get a suitable grease from a swimming pool supply shop. It's used for o-rings and seals in pumps and fittings.

[@laurenweber321]

Excellent, informative video, thank you! Following your advice here, my E1 code is cleared.

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Way to go!

[@UselessJoe123]

Thanks Ray , This is very informative . I had the same problem , several times with E 1 error code . Couldn't find any to fix the issue. Not mentioned in the manual DCO190687 03/20 either . Followed as you demonstrated . Works fine. thank you again ..

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Glad it worked for you.

[@XterraSvendog]

Thank you for the video.. my unit is a bit different, but I got it up and running in an hour and so far, so good.. Saved me $600

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Glad to hear it.

[@XterraSvendog]

@@HouseDoctorRay Quick question: Since you did the original video, have you needed to readdress the issue? The reason being that I'm thinking that I may need to make this an annual service item around the house as I'm sure that the same piston will eventually start sticking again. Thank you.

[@HouseDoctorRay]

I haven't done anything but add salt. Previous owners were lax in maintenance. I added a triple filter pre softener. kzbin.info/www/bejne/p4a0p6SDh5iSgLs

[@drakeanderson6473]

hey culligan man here, nothing wrong with what you did to get it working but a big no no is the petroleum jelly use faucet grease petroleum eats rubber so your gaskets will fail prematurely vs using faucet grease

[@bubbasquish]

Hi Ray, Great Job Man! Much appreciated! The price of that valve assembly is outrageous. I have a few O-rings to replace in my unit the challenge is to get the right ID, OD and cross-section. Your video will help me . Thanks

[@HouseDoctorRay]

If you come across the sizes or a source for a kit please post back.

[@Ace1440]

Got everything taken apart, cleaned, lubed, and put back together again. Then I plug it back in and the screen doesn’t display anything now. Can’t get any codes or anything to appear on the screen. It has a dim green backlight so I know that power is at least running into the unit. Any idea what happened or what I need to do to fix it from this point?

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Double check all the wires that they're not loose or corroded under the screws. If you unplugged any of those connectors make sure none of the pins are bent. I think there is also a fuse on that board. If it's bad an auto parts store would likely have it.

[@madhappytimes]

Thank you for the video! Your a life saver! I'm sure you saved a lot of people a lot of money. 👍👍👍👍👍

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Glad I could help.

[@ronkloiber]

That "little Wire" is from the water flow sensor. There is a turbine inside the pipe with a magnet that triggers a Hall Effect sensor switch, telling the softener how much water is flowing through it.

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Thank you.

[@sharins2265]

Sure on it. Thanks . Can you now come over put it all together

[@JavierGonzalez-wb3wz]

Thank you! Great video. Unfortunately my plastic shaft broke, it was very stuck and when I pulled it out it broke. Do you know the reference or what is the exact name of this part?

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Sorry I don't know. Just Google your model followed by 'parts breakdown'. You'll likely not be able to purchase from Culligan but there are options on eBay.

[@JavierGonzalez-wb3wz]

@@HouseDoctorRay Ok! Thanks!

[@TheH2OBro]

It’s called a Seal Pack and eductor. Yes you can purchase directly from Culligan

[@smitty9999]

i snapped the seal pack assembly near the top when putting the piston back in. What are the chances JB Weld can repair the plastic?

[@HouseDoctorRay]

I've never had luck glueing plastic. There are some videos that show 'welding' plastic with zip ties. Maybe give that a try.

[@TannerFleming-c8e]

What was that last grey wire you removed? Mine does not have that

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Water sensor. Reads how many gallons have passed through softener. It's optional.

[@TannerFleming-c8e]

Thank you

[@raymondhultay3576]

I replaced all the subject valves, brine screen, and piston with new ones, but didn't saturate the parts with silicone grease. The motor, cam, and associated parts worked for five minutes, with or without water, and then stopped with the phone icon displayed ... indicating service attention required. Does this imply the E 1 code? Also, when I unplug the transformer and run the water in service mode, the drain hose continuously passes water until I operate in bypass mode. My micro-switch does not appear to engage the cam at all throughout the entire revolution. I would appreciate your comments. Thanks Ray.

[@HouseDoctorRay]

I would put it in bypass, take the head off the tank carefully, make sure you don't disturb center pipe. Take it apart and flush the head under running water water. Make sure the motor cycles fully before putting it back together. Grease everything with food safe grease or pool o-ring grease.

[@70robbie]

This is going to cost you more in the long run having to undo the damage the petroleum jelly can cause. I would advise calling Culligan. This will not repair any problems with the microswitch. You may not have connected the piston to the slider when reassembling. It may cost a little to have Culligan do this, but it will cost more to have them undo further damage.

[@HouseDoctorRay]

I'm not sure where you're located Rob, but here in the Northeast you could order a brand new Fleck for the cost of a service call from Culligan.

[@hackwood710]

@@HouseDoctorRay Please stop recommending to take the valve off of the tank. Thank you.

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Midway through the video I mention you could do this without removing the head unit.

[@corygibbs7011]

Hey I'm gonna give this a shot this week. Just a question for now though, this is the first house I've owned with a water softener, I've been getting this E1 error for quite some time now. I wasn't aware of the bypass because that side is so close to the wall, so for the last few months I've just been unplugging from the wall and plugging it back in to clear the error / stop the draining. Do I have to worry about any damage or bad water in the meantime until I can follow these steps and try and fix it?

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Just the damage the hard water is doing to your pipes and fixtures. Check the rest of the comments. Several people reported being able to easily do it without removing the head unit from the tank.

[@richardrucker8860]

I just had to fix this Error. My device just calls it “ERR 1”. It sounded like the back flush was running non-stop, but it may have been at a slower rate. The problem appears to be a that long black piston assembly. It gets stuck, in an open position, so the water keeps running. I did all of the work right on the water softener - you don’t have to take it off. First put the water on bypass and that stops the non-stop running water. Then unplug the unit. I did disconnect the drain line (took seconds) and some water ran out. I believe that may be useful to do. Then I lifted the plastic housing off exposing the motor. The two screws at the bottom holding the sliding plate are simple to get out. Not so much for the one up top. A small ratchet wrench or socket wrench might work, but I had none. I had to use a small slotted driver in the Phillips screw - not elegant, but it worked. Then you can pull off the motor assembly. This exposes the big black piston assembly at the bottom. Yank that out as the video shows. Mine was stuck and hard to move as well. I had to take the whole thing apart to get the piston out. I cleaned it up, lubed it up, and put everything back together - and it is working fine. Now, after I took off the bottom 2 screws and removed the sliding plate, I plugged it back in and tested it. The motor ran as expected and it reset the system to is appropriate resting position. This confirmed that the big black piston was the problem, and by reseting the position it makes it easier during the reassembly phase - the black piston needs to be fully pushed in.

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Thanks RR.

[@williamluo1786]

Thank you so much! did this on my unit today and so far so good.

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Glad it worked out for you.

[@jaythompson4585]

An even quicker way to fix is to unplug the power to the softener and let it sit for five minutes, if it restarts with a 12:00 just restart! Maybe it was a power surge??? You may have to refill the brine tube up to the float.

[@HouseDoctorRay]

The old reboot is always the first thing to try. I should have mentioned that I tried that and it didn't work. Thanks for posting that tip.

[@akotlia]

great video ! I hate the brand though, they are very close source. I have a medallist and ended up buying a water2buy 200 for 400 bucks. will try to repair the medallist and sell it as I changed the resins myself 4 years ago. BTW not recomended to use petrol based grease on O rings, there are silicon water based lubricants for that. The diff vs the medalist is the connection to the bottle, your model has an adapter I can see changing from two tubes from the valve into one big threaded one (with the barcode) for a standard bottle? (maybe). I will use the salt recipient of the medallist adapted to the model 200 the hybrid may be the best of both. Thanks

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Sometimes you can find Culligan parts on eBay. I too dislike their proprietary practices. If I ever have to replace it I'll get a different brand.

[@MDR-hn2yz]

Nice video. Any recommendations on troubleshooting a Culligan water softener that is not using any salt?

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Thanks. As far as not using salt: See if your brine tank developed a 'salt brdge'. This is when wet salt solidifies and the salt can't fall down. Also make sure your water line into the brine tank isn't clogged. The water in your brine tank should go down during regeneration then go back up. You can easily remove the line and flush it out if it's clogged. Try cleaning out the tank- kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZpXPdGuri6qXjZI

[@MDR-hn2yz]

@@HouseDoctorRay thanks. I checked it out. 👍👍

[@arifusman6123]

Anyone know size for piston O-Ring (i think needs 7 piece) for Culligan gold series. or where to buy from?

[@HouseDoctorRay]

From what I found Culligan will only sell parts to authorized service centers. There are some parts available on eBay.

[@pjenkins13]

Man, this is a fantastic video. Thanks a ton!

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Thanks.

[@johncalvo1743]

Hello and thank you for your helpful video. I woke up today and found a E1 code. My unit is similar to yours, if not the same one. So I unplugged it for 10 minutes today to "reboot it" per your advice. When I plugged it in, the E1 is gone but the flashing phone icon is still there. Now my concern is that when I unplugged the unit, I kept hearing water running for the whole duration. It is still running now. Why is it doing this and what should I do about it? Please respond because I don't want any further damage. Thank you.

[@HouseDoctorRay]

The water runs when it is in regeneration mode. On mine it runs for two hours. If it's running much longer than that yours may be stuck.

[@johncalvo1743]

@@HouseDoctorRay Thank you for your prompt reply, Ray. My regen is set to 2 am every night. So how do I turn it off? And why didn't it turn off when I unplugged it?

[@HouseDoctorRay]

It won't shut off when you unplug it because the motor needs to move the valve to shut it off. You may need to pull it apart.

[@johncalvo1743]

@@HouseDoctorRay And the hits keep coming...

[@HouseDoctorRay]

If it's still running just push the valve in the back to bypass until you can fix the softener. Another technique I sometimes use to get things unstuck is tap on it with the handle of a screwdriver.

[@thomascoughran1103]

I have question. I followed your video instructions,and when trie to see it worked . The motor would go thru 1 and 1/2 cycle and stop. Any suggestions.

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Remove the motor and gearbox from the valve and see if the motor can go through all of the cycles. If it does then the valve is the problem. Try cleaning every nook & cranny. My valve had a lot of sediment in it from the well water.

[@Jesuslovesyou-g8o]

Thanks alot! Great video and excellent step-by-step. Appreciate it. This helped me solve my leaking valve.

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Glad it helped.

[@relaxinvibes4044]

Awesome video very simple thanks

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Thanks for watching.

[@DooB485]

Thanks for the help

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Thanks for watching.

[@ruchancakaloglu]

Why engineers don't prefer to use selonoid valves to contol the water ? for more smooth pass ? or not to stress the tank ? thank you

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Solenoids only have two positions. The water needs to flow through multiple paths for proper operation. The motor and cam can cycle the piston through all of the positions.

[@amandaharris1538]

Thank you!!!

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Thank you and thanks for watching.

[@slm2hh]

Water from the discharge house keeps running. I did exactly what you did, but the water keeps discharging. Any ideas as why and how to fix it, other than yanking out this useless system?

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Hold down the regeneration button to force the system to cycle. If that doesn't work you may have torn a seal or have a stuck valve.

[@jrm2383]

First of all, if it’s running at the drain, 99% of the time it’s a bad piston. You don’t need to take the valve off. Wear and tear parts usually run about $250 to have repaired and rebuilt ,generally last 5-8 years depending on the water quality. Cleaning the piston is a short term fix. Those seals are factory torked. Vaseline is the worst thing for seals, you need silicone! Vaseline will ruin the seals. Unfortunately your repair won’t last.

[@70robbie]

Agree 1000%

[@xudongao1206]

thank you very march! 谢谢您！

[@WilliamPetersen-b8p]

Culligan uses food grade lubricant. You are using Vaseline which can build up overtime with calcium/magnesium/iron. Doesn't make a great combination 😕

[@scottnevil]

Thanks!

[@HouseDoctorRay]

👍

[@reviewmaster517]

So do you still think that you have to remove the whole thing or can I just remover the the motor without removing the tank?

[@HouseDoctorRay]

I would say that it could be done w/o removing the unit from the mineral tank or the bypass valve. Depending on where it is stuck you may have pressure in the mineral tank. Make sure to relieve the pressure before taking it apart. Mine was loaded with sediment from the well water so it needed to be flushed out. Good luck. Post back how you make out.

[@reviewmaster517]

@@HouseDoctorRay So the first error was E2 and the Culligan guy said unplug and wait a few minutes so I did. Then when I plugged it all back in the motor turned and the error went away. So I turned the bypass back on and the regen started back up. After 2 hrs running regen I tried to force the motor and then the E1 code came up. So I unplugged it again and tapped it with a hammer,plugged it back in and it stopped the regen and seems to work now. If this doesn't fix it permanently I will go through your process,thanks.

[@mercwithacat9938]

I work for culligan you can do all of this with out taking the whole head off just take the motor off and pull the piston out and grease it up and please don't use Vaseline it's petroleum based wich is gas that will eat away at your gaskets use silicone grease please I rebuild these units all the time they are good units

[@belloa3026]

Do you have a video on how?

[@HouseDoctorRay]

You can just follow the steps in my video without unscrewing the head from the tank.

[@mercwithacat9938]

@@belloa3026 yes just follow the first steps just take the white cam off then take the 3 screws out and pull the motor off you can disconnect the motor power then just pull the pistons out with some pliers

[@katiepolone824]

Can some one tell me if the white plate is to fit around the piston?

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Yes. Jump to 9:01 and you'll see how it goes on.

[@dkenmiller9829]

You should never use vaseline on O-rings. Always use plumbers grease or silicone grease. That stuff will not swell and soften the rubber seals like vaseline or petroleum grease will.

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Good to know!

[@carlosmorgan8123]

The last wire you plug behind the by pass valve is a FLOW METER. Please don't be stuck again USE SILICONE GRASE not petroleum grease because gonna change by time . Please don't take apart the tank just the motor mechanism

[@XLockDown]

When can you come over and fix mine?

[@HouseDoctorRay]

If you're in NE Pennsylvania I can come fix it for you when the governor lifts the lockdown.

[@adammackinnon4850]

The Grey wire measures your water useage

[@HouseDoctorRay]

Thanks for posting this.

[@70robbie]

Shouldn't be pulled out. Has a release on the opposite side.

[@kylek6834]

Much easier to do while sill on tank...- cull tech

[@HouseDoctorRay]

I agree.

[@joe96787]

WOW and Culligan is trying to charge me over $600.00 for a new motor!

[@mediocresupport4682]

there could be something else wrong requiring the need to replace other parts. which arent cheap. i highly doubt this will fix all E1 codes.

[@Dr.k-t2x]

Do not do this. In two months you’ll end up calling Culligan. Trust the experts.

[@HouseDoctorRay]

It's been almost three years and it's still working. I don't need to call an expert to pull out a piston, lubricate it and reinstall it.

[@sharins2265]

You must work at culligan. They are rip-off company.

[@jimlasso7000]

Thanks!

[@survivingminnesota8381]

Thanks for the help

[@HouseDoctorRay]

No problem. Thanks for watching.