😬 How Bad Is It❔ 8.8 Rearend Damage This Is Crazy❗️

[@DSRE535]

Thats Racing !!! Sh!t happens a lot!!! If it was easy everyone would be fast and never break! Remember you can’t Fail if you never Quit!! Lets Gooooo!!!

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Absolutely and I’ve never quit

[@brendavanorden9550]

Your weld is hot as hell. You sheared it off due to heat stress.

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

I agree

[@motownXJdad9565]

freindly suggestion, when you put your new rear end together, do yourself a favor and get a LubeLocker diff cover gasket. theyre really popular with off road guys, they dont leak, and theyre reusable. no more RTV mess, no more scraping off old sealant, and no more prying your cover off any time you need to get back in there, i run them on my Jeeps and love them👍

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Thanks buddy I’ll look them up

[@bigheadedmartian]

I had a 1974 comet with a 302 Boss in it in 1977, Beautiful car you have.

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

That’s awesome! Thanks buddy

[@Jonny_trans]

The people who say the weld was too hot are correct. If you do this again make sure you focus the heat of the weld on the thicker metal. As the metal melts it pulls from the tube and creates a weak spot directly adjacent to the weld. You can see you had some areas more affected than others. There is also heat dissolution of the weld creating variations in metal hardness around the joint

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

I agree with that as I think that’s what happened. Next one will be tig

[@alyn7d7]

Wow. 😮

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

😬

[@birdman1021]

Tin Soldier the way2go for sure

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

I agree

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

💪🏻

[@bigmikes2140]

Weld it sleeve it and double pass on the weld and add some rosettes weld in there

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Changing out whole axle

[@jonwheeler2414]

Awwesome glad there's no body damage

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

🙏

[@mjj6870]

well not as bad as you thought that's good I think the Comet is sharp

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Thanks buddy

[@andrewshuford]

Dude the comment section went wild on this one Courtney 😂 Thanks for sharing man and good luck 👍

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Lol yes it did we were just talking about that at the track.

[@leestadnyk5573]

the weld weakend the tube and that is why it broke like that

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

I agree

[@marcuscarrow3938]

It may be wise with that much stuff being welded to the tubes to pull the old tubes from the center section and install chromoly axle tubes

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

I did think about that. I’m going to look into it. Thanks

[@trophbrwntrouthunter]

Hitting like, thanks for more how to on the way!

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Thanks buddy

[@racecar68bird]

Seen that exact break. The 8.8 tube was shortened and welded back together but not welded well. That looks like real smooth cut in a few places where the weld didn’t penetrate 100%

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

But it was never cut there……..

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

It was shortened at the ends not at the 4 link bracket

[@racecar68bird]

Sorry from video it looked like smooth cut with no penetration. My bad. Glad you’re ok and the car will continue on.

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

@racecar68bird I understand. I’ll get better footage for y’all when it’s out the car.

[@AndyB718]

I was gonna say just call Tin Soildiers for a battle ready 8.8 housing and you'll be good.

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Wish I had the money to swing one buddy

[@yinzer_412_]

I would replace the axle tubes with 3.00” / 2.625” I.d. Chromoly axle tubes.

[@yinzer_412_]

Strange engineering has the tubes in stock.

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Thanks

[@1clnsdime1]

Thats a wild one there. I dont see how that broke unless it was just way to hot from welding a thick bracket to a thin tube. I have never seen that happen before.

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

I think to hot of a weld was the cause

[@cavemangarage]

Go 9" and dont look back..Dennis

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Just not in the cards right now

[@cavemangarage]

@@ThePaintPaperHustle have the run out checked on that axle..scared it may have bent..take care

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

@cavemangarage thanks man

[@davidlorentzen6090]

first and foremost, no butt welding of axle tubes. if you have to, inner support is required. and tig welding is preferred. by the looks of your tube, you had very little penetration of the weld. good luck on your repairs.

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Thanks

[@tomcumbey9029]

Probably at a point where you need thicker wall tube. Those look pretty thin.

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Possibly

[@davidreed6070]

The weld didn't have enough penetration.

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Thanks

[@paulalabab8896]

Courtney why don’t you get an 8.8 housing from tin soldiers with the four link brackets. With good axle tubes

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Simply can’t afford that debt at the moment

[@young11984]

Hey man, this is a perfect example of why back braces are used and a truck/f150 would be a bit better stock housing option, back brace to the housing ends would support that tube after the ladder bar bracket and the f150 has a larger thicker axle tubes too. Looked like plain old metal fatigue to me, have seen a few 9” break past the ladder bar brackets although they werent that clean of a break they usually cracked on the rear of the tube then ripped the rest loose. Good luck hoss, you know one of the weak points now and found it off the line not at the 330

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Next one will have a lot of bracing

[@donaldgray5561]

Anything with a full spool in it by nature will not have c clips holding in the axles, regardless of what you want to call it. You have aftermarket axles with press on bearings so you don’t have “c-clip eliminators” per se. But that housing was designed and shipped from factory with c clips holding in the factory axles. Ford 9” housings never used c clips which is why 9” housing ends are the most popular choice in racing applications. Maybe that helps sort through some of the confusion, new subscriber here from Kinston NC.

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

This was exactly my thoughts but others seem to think different. John simply misspoke in his video

[@donaldgray5561]

@@ThePaintPaperHustle yes there’s plenty of knowitall’s to go around on KZbin standing ready to exert their knowledge on content creators. I’m sure you’re well aware lol. Good luck man, might get up with you for a paint job once I’m done building my race car.

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

@donaldgray5561 thanks buddy and yes there are plenty of them

[@pontiac411]

My guess would be the heat from welding on the brackets made the tubing brittle and caused it to sheer you might talk to the guys you're getting your brackets from about that you may need a better housing or brace the new one at the end

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Yes I think that’s what happened also. New one will be braced good

[@whereisamerica7384]

@@ThePaintPaperHustle if you don't switch to a 9 inch, you may want to replace both axle tubes with .250" DOM mild or CM tube. I'm paranoid about my 10 bolt after this. I used it to prove a point. Now I'm questioning the safety of it

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

@whereisamerica7384 yea I may do that

[@whereisamerica7384]

@@ThePaintPaperHustle probably a good idea. I know you said you were going to brace it, but if you switch tubes and brace it, you'll never need to worry about it again. When you order from Tin Soldiers, ask their opinion. Them and TRZ are 8.8 virtuosos. Also if you change tubes you can reuse your center section 👍$👍looking forward to watching the process.

[@timmyfontenot7104]

I personally would not switch to turbochargers. I would put a cog belt drive on. I am a procharger guy.

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Yea there’s no right or wrong way

[@stevemayo1175]

At 8:42 So you remember me saying Wow that was a Clean Break Back When I saw it in the Trailer ? Yea Look How Smooth the Axle Tube is DISCLAMIER I am Knot Knocking Any Ones Work But It Appears To me that the Tube was Merely Tacked In Place Not Prepared Correctly as In Having a Bevel to Weld up and Never was Welded Up All the Way Around it And When It Planted the TIRE The Tac's Broke and you Tore Up a Slick and Got GEAR Oil On the Track Not Hating Just My Observation

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

It can’t be beveled there bc it was never cut there….. brackets were simply slipped over the tube and welded in place. Housing was cut at the ford 9” ends which isn’t near the break at all.

[@baldhead7705]

Rear end housing doesn't look like any of them welds penetrated the metal, but glad it didn't do any serious damage

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Thanks

[@azmartin1977]

You need to get away from the factory seamed axle tubes and go with [DOM] drawn over mandrel axle tubes and a lot of thought needs to go into stopping the tubes spinning in the cast diff center and not just rely on the tubes press fit and plug welds to hold it. Id say the old tubes copped a bit too much heat from both the leaf spring brackets and then the 4 link brackets in which fatigued the local area and by the rust it had there, I'd say it would of had a crack there. All the best getting it sorted.

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Thanks

[@keithgriffith6002]

I was wondering what I was gonna do this winter. Ty I know now. 👊🏻

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Lol you’re welcome. You’ll love the new one

[@keithgriffith6002]

@@ThePaintPaperHustle I’m sure. I’m guessing a Super Bee or Daytona.

[@freddiemoralez1536]

🎉🎉 I'M LOOKING FORWARD TO SEEING THE UPGRADES, THUMBS UP AND GOD BLESS ALL 🎉🎉

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Thanks

[@NoOne-uu2zt]

Do you think the mig welding over heated the metal ?

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Yes that’s what I think caused it

[@buiItnotbought]

The heat affected zone must have been really big making the metal there weak. General rule of thumb is alternate sides of the housing welding an inch or two at a time. Would recommend tig and letting it cool a bit halfway through.

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Next one will be tig

[@funfun8095]

Yep

[@Doogie_Causey]

Percy Gone Wild, R I P to the drivers side axle tube

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Forreal

[@giuseppe841]

🇺🇸New to your channel. Dude, you are lucky, I see this a lot on KZbin. when they cut and narrow a rear they cut the tube and then put it back together, that's a NO NO, especially with the power you're making. I'm sure you know by now if you're gonna cut and narrow a rear, you cut Axel flange ends. Best of luck with you guys really like that car it is clean .👍🏼

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Thanks buddy and welcome to the family

[@FadetoBlack1463]

You need to brace the axle tubes as well.

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

New one will be

[@FadetoBlack1463]

Good luck!! @@ThePaintPaperHustle

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

@FadetoBlack1463 thanks buddy

[@Ilaguy]

No penetration on that weld.

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Thanks

[@chriswilson9248]

Tin soldiers 9 inch should be ableto reuse your axles

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Yes but then I need center section and a new drive shaft due to length change

[@keithgriffith6002]

Man the drill light isn’t bright enough. 😂😂😂.

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Lol

[@jamesthetford2516]

Courtney do you think when y'all welded that bracket together that maybe a heated that part up too hot and maybe waking it do it

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Very well could have bc it was never cut there

[@jkfonyi]

I will be surprised if Everything in that rear end isn’t damaged .

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

All looks good

[@frankietyndall9595]

I've gotta 8.8 with only a else but it's real short like 36" wide????

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

I already have an 8.8 I can get my hands on for free thanks though man

[@frankietyndall9595]

If u need 8.8 and axles u can have no guts in center but if u need it u can get it. Think its ford 9 inch bearing ends

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

I already ordered everything for the new 8.8 thanks though buddy

[@iamjam821]

The weld on the axle tube definitely failed. You can see where the weld peeled off the axle tube because there was little more than surface penetration when the weld was made. Both sides of the axle tube need to be beveled at least 75% down the thickness of the axle tube itself. I agree with you on staying with the 8.8 especially since you have all the axles and parts already. Good luck on the upgrading. One way or another, you’re going to learn what works and what doesn’t. Keep up the good work

[@funfun8095]

Tube wasn't welded together where it broke, brackets were welded on, there.

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Where it broke at was never cut there just brackets welded on

[@iamjam821]

@@ThePaintPaperHustle guess I need my eyes checked then lol. Could have sworn it looked like a spot where it was cut and rewelded.

[@iamjam821]

@@funfun8095 that puts the break in the heat affected zone just outside the weld then. Maybe too much heat when the brackets were welded on? Could be just one of those freak things that you can’t ever really account for

[@funfun8095]

@@iamjam821 Yeah, too much heat, for too long. Thin stock tube, too. Why stock housings aren't good for high power. Need at least .250 wall tubing.

[@momentummotorsports6137]

I totally agree with you about redoing the 8.8 you should check out the tin solders 8.8 really looking forward to the build ill def be tuned in

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

We just ordered some stuff from them for new axle

[@bobaque70]

Just glad you and the Comet were ok!That could've been real ugly down track!Love your enthusiasm and abilities to bounce back!Good Luck brother...

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Thanks buddy and yes it could of been

[@larrypugh9336]

Can i Vote for a 4 eye fox for your next drag car 😂

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Lol I can’t do a fox I’m sorry. I did love the blue one I painted on the channel though

[@justonrandall6304]

love your videos thank you. Cost me nothing to watch you break stuff and repair it

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Thanks buddy and yes that’s my goal is to teach others from my failures

[@michaelmatern1284]

Courtney I hope you put a wish bone in there it will help a ton & it won’t cost that much I just thought you would like to know that

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Yes it already has a wish bone in the car

[@freddiemoralez1536]

🎉🎉OYEAH I HAVE BEEN THINKING ABOUT WHAT KINDA CAR THE FUTURE BUILD IS😅😅, YOU SAID THAT THEIR IS NOT A LOT OF THEM MADE INTO A RACE CAR. OLD SCHOOL COUGAR? I DON'T SEE ANY OF THOSE 😅 I'M LOOKING FORWARD

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Lol I can’t wait to show yall

[@donald-1463]

Courtney I've got my popcorn on standby for the video

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

🍿

[@stevemayo1175]

OK so at 8:31 you can see the Smooth Part of the Tube Where it has Been Cut Off the 9 in Housing and Butt welded to the 8.8 Tobe The Weld Should have Came Back On the Outer Part At Least the Thickness of the Tube and you can Clearly see It Dont

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

At 8:31 that’s not a 9” end. That’s the axle tube. I think you think we took an old 9” and cut the ends off of it which isn’t how this is done. You order 9” cnc ends and weld them on. So the 9” ends are about 4” long. The piece your looking at is like 10-12” long. The spot that this broke at was never cut.

[@stevemayo1175]

@@ThePaintPaperHustle Ok Corey I know you are Convinced But I am telling you Metal Tubing NEVER Breaks Clean Like that It Twist Take it off the AXLE and Set it back up to the Break and Lets See How Close it is to where it was B4 it Broke I'lll Bet it is SO Close to Plumb you could reuse it If it were welded Right If Im Wrong I will Buy you a Coke a Cola and if you say yu drink Pepsi well I'll have to Just Un Follow ya lol

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

@stevemayo1175 I drink coke 😂 no I’m saying it was never cut there and I’m telling you I fell like the weld was ran to hot which weakened the metal making it brittle. Ima release a better video explaining everything tomorrow morning as there’s been a lot of comments all over the place and I think this video didn’t explain or show it well.

[@stevemayo1175]

SoYea at 7:20 Yes you do have C Clip eliminators Cause there is No C Clip it is Held in By the Axle Bearing So Now say your Sorry to John He was Right

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Ok I stand corrected then. I’ve never heard them referred to that when you completely change the design to ford 9” ends. Kinda confusing if the new ends are also called that

[@stevemayo1175]

@@ThePaintPaperHustle So the C Clip Installs at the Spline end of the Axle Ka Pish ?

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

@stevemayo1175 yes if it had them then the c clip would be in the end of axle

[@robschneider4239]

I hate to keep beating a Dead Horse But I have done a few Ford explorers for S10 that were reduced 3 inches on one side I swear that break looks just like that Did you get that rear second hand and both Axles were the same length before you reworked it It should have had 1 tube 3 inches longer than the other factory. They should be 3.25 inch tubes also they're thicker

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

I personally pulled it out of a ford explorer and shortened both sides to be equal length. It was cut at the ends only where the 9” caps were welded on

[@robschneider4239]

Wow that is crazy and scary I'm sure me and lots of people have welded brackets on rears with no thought about it cracking like that. Glad you're good And the car didn't take too much of a hit.

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

@robschneider4239 yea it is and thanks buddy

[@stevemayo1175]

I'm Gonna Put you a Link in Here for you to watch this Aussie Machine and Weld Correctly and Yes you Bevel it to Get a True Strong Weld with Penetration From the inside of the tube Out

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

You’re missing the point that the tube was never cut at the break and the 9” ends are attached at the break.

[@brendavanorden9550]

Did I here you right? You have 9'' ends with c-clip eliminators. If so why.

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

No they are just 9” ends. Everyone’s confusing me. Someone else below commented that since they are 9” ends then they are c clip eliminators which doesn’t make since to me bc it’s now 9” ends with 9” bearings and correct axles to fit. There’s no c clips to eliminate

[@jerrellkull5347]

A 9" has 30 percent more friction than a 8.8, due to the curved cut gears.

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Good to know

[@andybrandner204]

X2 on Tin Soldier 8.8

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Wish I could afford a prebuilt unit

[@deansperformance9717]

Man hard to hit that like button on this one. You know the deal bro, things always break and there is always room to upgrade the fails! With big torque and hp hitting its final destination crap happens! Glad that happened when it did vs the big end fails which seems to bite me 🙃 Keep on rolling man 💪🏼

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Thanks buddy

[@alfredodirks3537]

Smart to stay with 8.8 nothing you have in it failed. I would change tubes on the next 8.8 to a thicker wall and new 9 inch ends with your Tin solders brackets and you should be bullet proof for what you'er doing. and not terrible on the wallet either. .

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

That’s exactly what I’m doing besides changed tubes due to the amount of bracing we are adding

[@boostedperformance4529]

Welded it up send it

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Lol we gonna replace it

[@russgregston4757]

poor penetration on the weld.

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Thanks

[@fromthebeginning6064]

0 penetration into the axle housing...horrible weld. Check the rest of your welds that person welded.

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Thanks

[@bon3zperformance367]

Great videos i stay tuned in. I have a G body with a mustang 8.8 and 35 spline spool and axle. Kinda got nervous when i seen your rear break like that. I also shortened the rear. I will be tuned in for the new 8.8 build. 💯👍🏾🔥

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Definitely watch new axle build

[@paulgriffin6723]

Tin soldiers rear with floaters

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Would be nice

[@funfun8095]

HAZ Thats called the Heat Affected Zone. Weld was too hot for too long and made the tube weak, right there. Stock tubes, also, i assume? That's why aftermarket tubes are .250 thick, or more. If those axles are for 9 inch flanges, then they'll work if you go 9 inch.

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

I did not know that the axles would also fit a 9” rear. And yes they are for 9” ends.

[@funfun8095]

@@ThePaintPaperHustle If it's the same width, flange to flange, they will. I'd go 9 inch and be done with it. Only thing extra, you'd have to buy it a 3rd member. Buy once, cry once. So, your brakes will work, too. Since you used 9 inch flanges. I assume, big torino ends, that's what I always use. I also, always run 5/8" studs.

[@barrywright1311]

Horse power finds the next weakest link go 9 inch and be done with it

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

9” isn’t in the cards at the moment

[@thefreezezone4583]

imho, your going to always be looking for more et and looking to put more power down, why waste the money on another 8.8 when you full well know you more than likely wont break the 9 to the point it is destroyed......just get the damned 9 inch and make one part of your car you dont have to worry about for the next few years. and tires, you should ALWAYS race on the size tire you plan on racing with, otherwise, all that data is not going to help on another size tire. Now race like TJ for a few decades then tuning is a lil less forgiving......know what your car does and how it reacts to changes is really the key to positive progress

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

All great advice thanks. I need to stay 8.8 bc all my other parts are good and I won’t have to buy a center section along with possibly remaking the driveshaft due to length change. It’s just not in the cards at the moment

[@thefreezezone4583]

@@ThePaintPaperHustle wow, didnt expect a personal reply :) I personally think youll be fine with the 8.8 between 1200 and 1500HP, more so if you have the next one braced and setup in a jig and retube. Now is the best time to move ur rear tires in, or readjust them if need be for a little more room, ofcourse thatll be new axles, but better than the cost of a center section and custom alluminum or carbon driveshaft. Upgrades due to breakage can be nice because they can be limitless, but hurt the wallet too lol desicions desicions :D

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

I take the time to reply to everyone as a thank you for you taking the time to watch. I greatly appreciate it. Yes the new one will have some nice bracing and I think y’all will love it.

[@philbetthauser9547]

How dare you improve your car 😆 🤣. You will definitely need the extra strength with the improvements you've made and will make

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Lol I know right

[@konjiki240sx]

I would bevel both sides of the tube for full penetration and to give weld more to grab on to. A wider bevel and root pass+ another pass or two(weaving/walking the cup) to fill the bevel and fully tie in both side of tube together has worked well for me.

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Tube was never cut anywhere near the break

[@funfun8095]

It wasn't cut there! Even a moron would know not to narrow a read end by cutting the tube near the middle. Courtney even said it wasn't cut there. SMH

[@donald-1463]

I was wrong about the axle you did one up on me broke the tube in two pieces

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

💪🏻

[@donald-1463]

John he's responsible for your actions it's not that same car as before all ready looked at tin soldiers 4link stuff radial n back of the track with chassis links as well

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

@@donald-1463 all tin solider stuff is nice

[@stevemayo1175]

then FF to 14:33 and you will see what I am Talking about this is on a Much Bigger Scale But it is How to Do it CORRECTLY PROVE Me Wrong !!! Courtney

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Lol I don’t have any reason to prove anyone wrong. I just try to show what I did, what failed and what I’ll do next time. I’m learning as I go.

[@stevemayo1175]

FF to 8:09 And Watch this Guy you will learn Something I promise you and Once again I'm Not hating I Just Know What I am Talking about and can Prove it Not a Key Board warrior

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

The link didn’t post

[@laska4075]

I’m not trying to talk bad about anybody, but whoever cut and welded that housing definitely didn’t get no penetration in to the base material There is a clear line between the weld and the base material. You’re lucky that didn’t happen at 140 miles an hour.

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

The housing was never cut where I broke. It was cut at the ends

[@832garage]

Was that 8.8 a factory core. Or did you buy a already modified rear-end. That tube was cut and welded poorly at some point.

[@outdoordummy3589]

That tube wasn’t cut at that spot. I’ve welded for almost 20 years,and have seen many of pieces of steel break like that near a weld. It’s a high stress area. There is lot of vibration and twisting of stuff going on around those 4 link brackets. Man love the channel keep doing what you doing brother . Glad you and the car are ok.

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

That axle was a stock oem explorer axle that I personally pulled and cut down years ago. As said in other comments the tube was never cut in that spot.

[@ThePaintPaperHustle]

Thanks for the support outdoors I’ll always keep on keeping on 💪🏻