How I rebuild a car engine cylinder head. Blown head gasket, burnt valve, etc. Pt 1 of 3 - REMIX

[@lamb_chop0076]

Hi my name is BOB and I approve this message..... I got the magic in me !!! :D this guys voice in the beginning is identical to the songs intro

[@RobertDIY]

😳

[@AnotherBandNameLater]

I wish i had this knowledge 6 months ago, but I'm so glad you've made a video on this!

[@RobertDIY]

Actually I just remixed this video that has been up since 8/13/14. :/

[@AnotherBandNameLater]

@@RobertDIY Okay, I watched those videos to get my 96 850 R fixed!

[@Lexiberian]

Hey! You mentioned at 9:03 that broken lobes are not a big deal, can the machine shop fix them? Thanks Robert

[@RobertDIY]

that's a question for the machine shop. I'm sure some would try, other's would not.

[@westleyloignon3767]

Excellent video. Thanks for posting. This is the first time I’ve heard of putting the gasket sealer on with a roller. I’m working on my 2005 Volvo xc70. I need to take the camshaft cover off to clean the coolant channels. Can I get away with leaving the timing belt on, pulling the cam cover, cleaning it up then putting it back on?

[@RobertDIY]

There are no coolant channels under the cam cover.

[@troutjunkie7330]

Checking the flatness with cast level from home depot that has +- 1/8" flatness. If you really that concern, you need precision flatness ruler or granite top. It's all overkill. I installed heads warped like bananas and they flattened right down with bolts. Never a problem. There are so many bolts all around each cylinder. It will seal and hold for years. Same goes for reusing original bolts. Never a problem and I did dozen of heads. It's better to have warped smooth surface then shitty machined head that was cut too fast and left bunch of grooves (cutter marks). This head flatness is an old myth that won't go away. Dates back to old iron heads that did not flex. Shops still make money and keep this myth going. You can have 1/8" gap in aluminum head and the bolt will pull it down with little effort (by spinning the socket by hand)

[@RobertDIY]

Interesting. Not a risk I'm willing to take.

[@quezadaestrada1104]

Ha I just sent my head away to get restored yesterday. Nice video

[@RobertDIY]

thanks for watching.

[@giantrobot9000]

Very helpful, thank you

[@RobertDIY]

You're welcome!

[@Logjam5]

Good Robert.

[@RobertDIY]

Thanks for watching

[@danielerickson4893]

Sorry, I know you've explained in multiple videos about the VVT cars, but I really want to make sure I get it right and don't mess anything up: So to rebuild my head (2000 V70R), Sorry if this is a stupid question, but if I will be taking the head off and apart, do I need to set timing (marks aligned on the front) before I take the VVT hub and sprocket off, or is that just when putting them back on? I know I need to use the cam locking tool on the back of the engine, but is that the only necessary tool, there's a kit here on ipd. couldn't include the link, but it also has: "rear camshaft lock tool, starter/crankshaft lock tool, camshaft retaining tool to hold cams to upper carrier, and upper carrier release and install tool" Do you think I would need to get that whole kit or only the cam locking tool? Thanks Robert, your videos are super helpful

[@RobertDIY]

You need to keep the lifters in order. You also need the locking tool that holds the back of the cams.

[@Gordon302]

Generally, Volvo heads don't need to be milled down. It is however, important that use new, torque-to-yield head bolts when replacing the head gasket.

[@RobertDIY]

Huh? If it overheated and warped, it will need to be milled. 🤷🏾‍♂️

[@abisaiestrada8383]

😃😃😃😃

[@RobertDIY]

thanks for watching.