How NOT to Build with Pavers- Why They FAIL! *DIY your own successful paver project

[@willl5250]

1. Bedding sand between 0.75 and 1.0 inches thick 2. Use the right edge restraints 3. Polymeric sand in between pavers

[@scorpiuswireless1]

That’s 5% of it. Keep going.

[@SoftYoda]

@@scorpiuswireless1 tell me the other 95% of it !

[@Wis-ti]

I work at a major home improvement store in their building materials department. I learned more in this video than in all of my training combined. Thank you!

[@dallasoben1017]

I've been watching your stuff for a while now. I'm a road maintenance Foreman just starting a small landscape / maintenance /fencing business. I find all your information to be very helpful. Thanks.

[@romegq]

Holy Crap! THANK YOU!!!! I've been in my new house for 5 years and the bricks on my backyard patio have underwent HORIZONTAL FAILURE (THANKS also for educating us on these terms!)...For some time I thought it was poor maintenance, or the kids playing too rough (3-4 years before failing, that has to have been a poor job). Now I have the confidence to proceed with a strategy to fix the problem, AND see that it never visits me again! Thanks Buddy!

[@djdeertz5450]

The biggest thing about longevity is polysand every 5 years, people fail to resand and then the pavers are free to twist and turn as they wish. Plastic edge restraints and stakes are a must also. 6-8" of 57 limestone tamped with a machine every few inches, then screen fines 1" thick. You also need to make sure that your base is contained and cannot be washed out over time, and if there is worry for a washout, drainage install is a must to keep the patio from sagging. Good video Stan. Youd be suprised how many companies dont do it the way you describe... its a shame. Job security I guess.

[@cashmoney7497]

@Ryan Carlen nice one. Ive installed pavers on my own house 7 years ago and still the same until a big truck carrying 20 ton screening sand made a piece sink. Other than that its still fine. I ordered the 20 ton sand so it was my fault. Funny thing is that the pavers had no base rock or screening sand. Just plain dirt

[@TWBlack]

Oh please tell me how to get a GOOD contractor. We've got a VERY long driveway (it's over 200ft) gravel and just seeing this about pavers (which I love) I wondered if they would work here and how I'd get a GOOD person to do this!

[@53philp]

@@TWBlack Good luck with that lol

[@kbanghart]

@@TWBlack I just got a quote for getting some pavers done. I would say, just ask the contractor to describe how far down he will go, and what layers he will do as a base. and, if they will describe that in the write up for your estimate. I would think that most of the shady ones would take off if you ask them for that information.

[@jamesnm21]

@@TWBlack contact a reputable company and ask them how they do their pavers. It will cost more to do it the right way of course.

[@melmyers4329]

My sons and I installed a paver driveway almost 25 years ago and it still looks great. When we put the "foundation" in we moistened and compacted it about every 2" for about 10". We used 20' long black iron screed rails to level the final sand before it was compacted, The only problem we've had has been ants love to nest in the sand. That good "foundation" has been the key to it still looking good.

[@popeye3305]

The vertical failure wouldn't have anything to do with the 3" downspout pour rainwater on the outside edge washing out your base? Huh. Been doing landscape and hardscape and irrigation for 25 years. I think you missed the elephant in the room. People, make sure to extend your drainage at least 10 feet down grade from your structure. This will save you costly repairs in the future.

[@Mondverg]

Thanks for your point!! Helps a lot!

[@mattlawwill7587]

How would that not rinse out the joint sand, once there is horizontal failure seems like water could rinse the base out pretty easily

[@PWN_Nation]

And not just paver damage...poor drainage also can destroy your actual foundation.

[@greenteambc]

You’re right buddy! And also they usually don’t tamp Right to the edge

[@JRAD80847]

6,8 or 10" of base is my favorite thing you've said in this video. As an asphalt contractor for the last 15 years. Concrete borders will work amazingly if it's done like a curb and gutter, re-enforced with rebar and properly tied together (problem being many landscapers don't know best practice to achieve best results on this). In our area, lots of research and testing has found the best gravel to be used is fractured on 3 faces of the stone with a good combination of fines - in the compaction process, watering the base is an essential step for achieving maximum densities for the highest quality longest lasting base possible but it's important not to oversaturate the base and flood the sub base below it. In low lying areas or heavily saturated sub bases - cement stabilizing has been proven to be the most cost effective way to build roads where high quality materials aren't readily available; and, we also use in many applications 63mm concrete crush, a mixture of crushed concrete and asphalt no bigger than 63mm in size - 25mm = roughly 1" for those of you taught imperial over metric - in Canada we use both. The process goes like this 4-6" of concrete crush placed (roughed in), watered, graded and compacted then topped with a 20mm road crush 3/4" with lots of fracture in the stones - round stones are no beuno! They don't bind with each-other and the only time you can really get away with it is if you have absolute mammoth rollers that are crushing the stones while they're compacting 8 tonne plus in weight machines. (I highly doubt many landscapers are into $250,000 rolling machines per unit). And even if you buy and old used, not many landscapers are acclimated to moving that kind of weight around from job site to job site. All that to say, I know a lot about base, various mix designs in HMA (hot mix asphalt). A lot about concrete and a lot about geotextiles to fix saturation issues. But, I keep learning from you Stanley and keep coming back! Thank you!

[@axelroxx]

Very humbling and informative answer . Thank you for the education ☺️

[@EchoTangoSuitcase]

I specialize in Gravel driveways and I can say without a doubt that Stan is absolutely right about base material. The part of a surface that you walk on is the "wearing course", whether it's asphalt, concrete, pavers or #57 Limestone. (0.50" to 1.00" stones). Personally, I use 2" of #4 limestone over a triaxial geogrid (over a non-woven filter fabric in some soil conditions) and then top that with 6" of #411 Limestone and 2" of #57 Limestone. And that's for a light duty residential PARKING spot. For a light duty residential driveway I go 8" of 411's, for a HD residential driveway I go to 10" and for anything commercial I go to 12" and add a second layer of triaxial geogrid at the 6" mark. Gravel, sand and soil all behave as a fluid when under stress, which is nice when you are talking about movement from frost because it flexes and returns, but when you place more weight on a spot than it can distribute to whatever is supporting it, or if you add enough water to saturate the material and overcome it's frictional coefficient then things are going to move. You would never finish paint a wall before properly applying, sanding and priming the plaster and you should apply the same "get the basics right" philosophy to everything else. I also use the same Roman Road example of what you get when you get the base right and then protect it from erosion, so it was kind of cool to see that in the video.

[@sladjanbegic]

Would you recommend gravel as a base for patio pavers?

[@EchoTangoSuitcase]

@@sladjanbegic - Depends what you mean by "gravel", and what kind of pavers you're using. Size, shape, thickness, weight... Generally speaking, whatever the manufacturer recommends is the best choice. Could I see myself using something as large as "3/4 clear" (also known as #57) Sure. If what I was putting down were large, thick, heavy slabs. For what most people think of as pavers, I would probably just use sand, possibly grits, which has individual grains as large as kosher salt. There are several variables, but it's usually wise to stick to the tried & true, at least for most situations.

[@TheAnnoyingBoss]

I personally like the idea of moving away from paint and its difficulties. I saw a stone and wood beam house and it looked built to last 1000 years

[@aaronnichols9444]

Love that you dumped a wealth of knowledge while fitting in a “that’s what she said” along the way. Well done!

[@gusmclovin3275]

Found tour site looking for info on building a paver patio and have found more useful and entertaining content than I expected. Thanks for the knowledge and humor. Your crew seem to be real craftsmen that care about the job they do. It's nice to see someone take the time to do it right. And thanks for making me re dig the 40 foot ditch I dug for conduit and put it back 4 inches at a time packed down. That hurt.

[@lafflaff2676]

We just had tiles places around some of our pool. Very expensive but the workers went down over 2 feet to start the base. Very professional..

[@bonanzatime]

Very well done, I'm impressed. .... another critical part of edging is it needs to have at least an inch of it running underneath the paver and sand bedding to 'Tie' it all together, so it 'moves' and 'flexes' TOGETHER, eliminating uneven settling of the pavers to the edging. The best edging I used was, I forgot the name, but it was company out of Minnesota. 'Pave Edge' something or other.?.

[@BobBlarneystone]

I thing your advice is good for newer installations of pavers. But several concrete driveways were replaced on my street by the same contractor 25 years ago (in Michigan). No base prep was done after removal of the old concrete. The other concrete driveways have heaved and cracked, but my 75' x 20' driveway is intact. I attribute that to my digging of a drainage trench on the upslope side of the driveway - 12"x 12" x 12", with placement a socked perforated drainpipe and with pea gravel filling the ditch. This reduces water infiltration under the concrete slabs. My arms felt like they were 2" longer at the end of the trenching, but it's worked for me.

[@Dirtmonkey]

Thanks for the comments Bob!

[@PatrickPaul1203]

I saw several videos that did a fine job of explaining what to do, you explained why you do things. Super useful

[@joshheinrichs4538]

I’m glad you mentioned about concrete borders, my boss makes us do it about 1/3 up the paver and when you’re butting up sod to the paver it’s so stupid, the sod dies, but he says “it’ll grow”

[@joshheinrichs4538]

Idk plus I just hate to work with concrete when they make something specifically to hold in pavers and is easy to install

[@jasonkraus2831]

Man - show him this video. Using the edge strips is faster, cheaper, and you get a better product for your customers. When I put mine in, it also let me move it a tiny bit if I made a mistake without having to bust a whole bunch of stuff up. Or - might be time for you to hang your shingle out as an installer of pavers and 'leave the nest'. Sounds like you at least know to open your eyes to better information.

[@Pissgremlin5964]

ICPI specs call for plastic edging and non galvanized 9 inch spikes. The spikes rust in the ground and they'll never come up.

[@elainedepiero7405]

Josh Heinrichs would u install a edger butt up against the house for a patio or just at the end where it meets the grass or both? Thanks great vid

[@camgere]

I found "Driveways, Paths and Patios" by Tony McCormack to be quite helpful (he's English). Maybe your library has it. Especially the pictures on pages 130, 170 and 171 that show all those confusing terms to us newbies: base, sub-base, grade, sub-grade, sand bed etc. He talks about Roman roads and they were fanatics about getting the drainage right. Coarse material on the bottom and finer material towards the top. OK, lot's of details involved. Nice video!

[@jeremiahsaunders6390]

His work as really good. I couldnt help but chuckle a little when he said not a chip and one of the pavers clearly was broken

[@24KGarbage]

"not even a chip" LUL as he pans across a chipped stone hmmmm LOL i enjoy the videos just found it funny

[@edwardpadilla7543]

I totally thought the same thing.

[@kevinhussey2106]

But it wasn't

[@MrDeritamichael]

I thought this was hilarious as well.

[@ABetterLifeInc]

More like a chunk of brick. It was still a very nice driveway and holding up well.

[@terrythomas790]

@@ABetterLifeInc Look at 2:50. Not the chip, but the edge.. But after 23 yrs. Id expect something showing it age.

[@kylefitzherbert9381]

Another great video with some great info. We have done a few sidewalks but we dont advertise for it at all. I personally think its fun because its a challenge for us. Oldest one is about 5 years old now and still looks good as new.

[@Dirtmonkey]

Thank you Kyle!

[@imprezobus]

I subscribed within first minute of watching. That doesn't normally happen. You struck me as a person who clearly knows what they are doing and are able to successfully relay that to other people.

[@phillysphinest3946]

Always remember the 6 P’s Proper Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance

[@namewithheld8115]

Preparation & Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance

[@DivaInTheWoods]

Pretty Polly Paints Petite Pink Ponies

[@DivaInTheWoods]

Pretty Polly Paints Petite Pink Ponies

[@GTX1123]

The right base is critical. 10 years ago I built an area right behind my house for my Huskies. The previous home owner tried to fix the erosion issue close to the house laying gravel right over dirt w no base and tossing some cheap concrete mix pavers over it. What a mess. I tore it out, regraded it and then put in a 4" aggregate base, power tamped in 2" increments, topped it w mulch and put a high fence around it. It's as good as concrete and hasn't moved in 10 years.

[@は私です彼の名前]

Edge properly. Dig deep, use pavers vertically for an edge [so that what would usually be the side becomes the top] and then fill in your walk way or driveway with the gravel and sand base. Those pavers [once layed] won’t have anywhere to go if you do it this way. Seriously stable yet flexible...

[@Pancho8091]

Wow really good information. I usually just put my pavers directly on the soil. This is good info to know.

[@Natedoc808]

Hey Stanley, I really appreciate your hard work and attention to detail in your videos. Thank you for taking the time to make your videos. I often view other videos on the same topics yet your videos always end up providing the most accurate and applicable information and how to.

[@han7902]

She said it! Too much will cause vertical failure.

[@dennishack3181]

Great information in a short video. I really like the informality of it. Keeps it light. Not promoting any specific product.

[@Dirtmonkey]

Thank you Dennis !

[@AndricLibreSinn]

The wear and tear is not comparable between roads made in past Rome to now. That's an insane comparison.

[@Kirt2323]

Super good job in your explanation,. Clear, Concise & Complete!! Love it

[@Dirtmonkey]

Thank you !

[@charlestredway8253]

That was the best, fastest to the point video of all of the videos out there.

[@Dirtmonkey]

Thanks Charles !

[@erikclark9004]

We use 3-4" for walkway or pad and 6" plus for driveway. We always make sure all organic material is out of the prepped area such as a old stump or something we generally excavate and try to get all the roots because over time it will decompose and cause setteling If building retaining wall or large wallblock structure, we pour a footer. When doing a raised pad we use geo may after 3rd course if it is going higher than 3 courses and we compact every 6" when filling. Also use filter cloth on the inside wall. Some times you are instaling in a wet area and extra soil will need to be removed and 57 stone (gravel) will need to be put down as a subbase If everything is done properly you should have very little setteling. Mountains and buildings settle over time so regardless of efforts you will have some issues over time. If you can get 10 years out of it without any repairs than it was done well. Their are two types of concrete, cracked and concrete that going to crack. Pavers done crack so if a large tree pushes them up you can just pick them put, remove tree roots or just relevel and lay back down. Keep in mind you will end up with a slightly smaller paved area bc they will never go back the way they came up. Lol

[@albertotorres7699]

BC stands for before crack

[@Hungrybird474]

Glad I do this this way already . Seen enough crap work over the years . Plus it feels good to know it's done as right as can be .

[@Thankful305]

MrAlbie 1970....you seem to know what your talking about and you responded to this year old video yesterday...I have a question I posted a few minutes ago... maybe you could answer.... I hope you or someone else can respond to this concern: We are using pavers and are dealing with protruding bricks on the house (at the base where the pavers need to fit flush) causing the pavers to be uneven. Obviously the purpose it to have nice straight lines. Now that it's halfway done and facing this new problem....Is there a workaround, without cutting or shaving down the brick? ?

[@mikehilvers1682]

I worked for a landscape company for 3 years it was always clay then crushed 4 s then dirty 9s (pea gravel with sand). Never a layer of just sand. Always rock solid, I saw jobs that they had done 20 years prior and they still looked brand new except for the weathering of the pavers/stone obviously. But I agree what's underneath is always key to a project lasting.

[@kbanghart]

I have a question, hopefully it's not too dumb. So, looking to replace some nasty looking dirt and mud in my backyard with something more sturdy. Thinking about doing pavers, but couldn't figure out how to get the entire area really level, then I realized maybe what I can do is pour a concrete slab first, then install some decorative pavers on top. Maybe use one of those plastic or rubber concrete forms where you can choose the design of paver you want. That way I wouldn't have to install each individual paver separately. Thoughts? It will only need to handle foot traffic.

[@kbanghart]

to go along with my other post, the reason I'm saying a concrete slab, is cuz I want to avoid doing all the sand or gravel and screeding. Maybe it's really stupid because concrete is such a pain. But it wouldn't be a huge area.

[@stonemaster1217]

Plen122 is better to use crushed concrete why you wanna pour fresh concrete and then pavers? They only do that on the Streets for cars

[@kbanghart]

@@stonemaster1217 it's okay I changed my mind, I'm just going to use those triangular concrete support things for the corners, then build a wood deck, and put pavers on top. The ones you click together.

[@michaeless658]

@@kbanghart concrete is the only base for pavers if you want quality.

[@danparker1925]

Thanks for the fantastic information. I also watched several other videos of yours laying base, sand and pavers. I only needed a 5’x7’ pad for a storage shed. It came out perfect and will last a lifetime. The one thing the videos don’t show is how hard the work is though. Lol Thank you again for the pro tips.

[@jpbiscaro8694]

I really appreciate all the knowledge you share, as well as video quality. There's a lot of stuff someone can learn from watching your channel

[@TimothySmithii]

Stan's video production quality is top notch. I haven't seen better shot video anywhere on the Internet. Just in the lighting I can tell he knows what he's doing, or someone does. Only thing I'd critique is the somewhat rigid, I'd argue old school, introductions to content. Whenever the "tip" lasts as long as the intro to the tip, your pacing is off. It would be perfect for TV, which is where I'd wager whomever edits these learned their craft, but that type of intro was largely due to commercials you don't have to battle for attention so is not needed, IMO. You already got us. Cut it out, or at least keep it to once at the beginning, tighten up the total run times, and you'll have some of the best, most dynamic content on the internet, and I'll bet your sub base increases. (Aside; there are a lot of producers going to apps with slick text overlays showing timestamps on the beginning of subjects so they don't need so much intro, plus it helps people using your videos for reference which I'd bet yours are.) Not that you need any pointers from some asshat on KZbin with no credentials. I just would want to hear this if the roles were reversed and one of my viewers saw something from his perspective I maybe couldn't/didn't. Then again I could be wrong on all of the above and you've already considered all the dynamics I am listing in which case cheers and please disregard the retard. Regardless, thanks for some really great content put together in a really professional fashion. For a dirt monkey.

[@thejuiceisloose8703]

The new construction industry standard for pavers here in North Florida is 4 in of paver base for patios and 6in of paver base for driveways. And a concrete border around the pavers that's hidden with sod. It's terrible but that is the standard that is held here in Florida. There are only a handful of paver companies who install pavers correctly and they do not do new construction. They do strictly residential sales and many of them do install pavers correctly. Unfortunately for Florida it is mostly sand and it makes it very difficult to keep pavers nice for years on end

[@OtreblaIIIable]

I like how he recorded the paver driveway from an angle and not straight, so you wouldn't notice the crooked lines. If you know you'll have a downspout, easy, put some concrete under that paver, it won't sink no mo'.

[@carlosmarin6171]

Great Tips, I am ready to start laying the pavers on my patio ...

[@Dirtmonkey]

Best of luck and hope it turns out great !

[@Jaxsolo]

Stan, I just demolished a patio I built in the early 90s. Not pavers, bricks. Concrete border. Subbase? No. Base material? Yes, if you include potting soil. I did compact a sand base, before laying the brick. It suffered all 3 failures as you described here. Patio was useless except as a place to put the grill. Demolishing it was cathartic. You make good vids!

[@rickjohnson1632]

Barry Kaufman Lol, sand is a very poor material to use as a base . Sand sinks.

[@Jaxsolo]

Rick Johnson: that thing was awful. I think every brick was heaved. And the weeds. (But it was mine. As dorked as it was, I busted my butt on it. I just..did it all wrong!)

[@jasonkraus2831]

Were they bricks for a wall (holes in them to fill with mortar) or solid? If they were solid then they were at least paver bricks. Sounds like everything else was wrong with that install, though.

[@Jaxsolo]

Jason, typical solid bricks. Everything about the patio was a complete disaster. Worse than bad. Fortunately, i used it just as a place to park the grill.

[@shawnsims9902]

he's trying a little to hard to be cool but he does know what he's talking about, good job brah!

[@theeburlgoat]

Shawn Sims “that’s what she said”,...

[@TheFrankpet]

This guy looks like the Richard Rawlings of masonry lol

[@davidfierro3650]

Spot on... haha

[@scorpiuswireless1]

I only pave on concrete. Ive laid around 1.2 mill pavers in my time. Call backs: nil Sunken pavers: nil If you lay on concrete, 1” paving edges, header course restrained by concrete you will be a successful paviour.

[@MW-gh1mo]

Sure, but it will cost about 10 times as much.

[@scorpiuswireless1]

No it doesn’t Take a 30 sq m area or 300sq ft Concrete $250AUD a cubic. 3 cubic delivered costs $750 Compaction costs nil. Rough screed ok. No concreting skills required. Compared to: Road base $70 ton Need 5T or $350 Compaction costs $150 Total $500 On a 300 sq ft job it costs an extra $250AUD or $1.20 a sq ft That’s around $200 USD We put our concrete in dry if in a hurry and we are paving on it by 11am Add in the point of difference factor over your competitors and offer a 5 year warranty even in driveways, charge more and make more money for the same amount of work and it’s often quicker. Now add in no come backs Now add in Bullit proof reputation. It’s a winner.

[@creativelandscapedesigns9493]

Stan, I'll give you a 10/10 on this information! 😎 - For a driveway base I recommend using a 2inch minus granular aggregate, the larger the size the better structure.

[@mbda1]

at our last house, i paid a guy to remove all that plastic edging and put in a concrete edge channel if you will. The plastic was coming up everywhere and the 10" bolts were rusty too. The freeze/thaw cycle just doesn't seem to let it stay as is. Would love your pov on this as installing that stuff is foolproof but after 10 years most of it was coming up.not a lot of topsoil either, mostly clay below the surface

[@taistingtheair1368]

I purposely installed a walkway on my mom's house with scrap red bricks so that it would distort, slightly sink in places or drift to make it look old and crafty. My prep was dig out and replace 3 or 4 inches inches of dirt with regular sand over dirt which also made the water go away after rain storm because it was just mud before. On the sides I used more bricks lined up by leaning length wise against each other so the end of each brick was raised slightly higher than the bricks in the walkway. Then I swept some sand into the space between the bricks and was done. It worked as expected, rough and not squeaky clean. LOL I would not consider this any where close to being a pro job but for a rookie it worked and I achieved the result I expected.

[@leonkennedy2909]

Sounds like if someone trips on them they will sue your drunk mother

[@charlieslak5585]

Excellent video...& hilarious! especially "that's what she said." The added sound effects are great too. 😂🤣

[@tomoaktree4951]

Another excellent video. But I wanted to add a very important additional topic to be considered, which could be a series of videos just on its own merit is taking into account, and that's water drainage.

[@Dirtmonkey]

Appreciate that!

[@ReinaldoAlfaro1]

It’s all about that base, bout that base, no trouble!🤣

[@EdmondDantesX]

Because you know I'm all about that bass, 'Bout that bass, no treble I'm all 'bout that bass, 'bout that bass, no treble I'm all 'bout that bass, 'bout that bass, no treble I'm all 'bout that bass, 'bout that bass

[@jackcameback]

Made me smile :-)

[@Pissgremlin5964]

Youre both fired

[@taistingtheair1368]

Sing it Bro LALALALALALALA

[@cowboys1aq]

Reinaldo Alfaro i was think the same thing

[@yeryangchang5000]

Very detailed and easy to follow. Best vdo. Instant subscriber.

[@Dirtmonkey]

Really appreciate that, thanks for being here !

[@Jerzeyguy]

For doing pavers. Try using 1/4 inch stone , instead of sand or stone dust. Water will pass through the 1/4 Unlike sand or dust.

[@wade5941]

I will try that. I have had good luck with laying down only 1/2" sand layer over crushed rock base but think I will give your suggestion a try. Makes sense to me.

[@Jerzeyguy]

wade5941 works well in the north east. I don’t get many call backs from customers saying their pavers lifted from the ice n snow.

[@wade5941]

@@Jerzeyguy Snow, ice and frost heave more serious here in North Dakota. I get a fair share of jobs to repair pavers/walls that have moved.

[@tomvanhoesen9479]

Frost is a huge reason too. In the northeast there is no getting around it. We call'em heaves!

[@majorrayn3411]

I’m in the same business and there is so many little things that should be covered in another video

[@khadijahdavis1572]

Ongeee, this guy's videos are thee most entertaining, informative videos I've seen😁, he just tickles me so much, i love this guy, I'd love to hang out with him, plus he's VERY easy on the eyes😅

[@lydiamclaughlin7100]

Is no one going to mention how epic his snake skin detail in his vehicle was?....and this guy could pass as John Tavoltas twin brother! Blessings from Canada!

[@DanielinLaTuna]

Here in Southern California I’ve used red brick for paving the driveway; looks awesome and has resisted many cement truck and dumptruck (with ten yards of sand/gravel material) over the years. I used nine inches of compacted sand over twelve inches of 3/4 sharp gravel. Maybe I was lucky.

[@GardengalAAA]

And it’ll all be over when that big one hits lol

[@DanielinLaTuna]

@@GardengalAAA now looking like “The Big One” is actually overdue in Seattle… may actually impact as far as Portland, and Vancouver BC Unfortunately, gonna be bigger than San Andeas

[@shyamdevadas6099]

This is a GREAT video, dude! Incredibly helpful! Many thanks!

[@tigerdocsdc]

Perfect timing for this video since my plan is to replace my current 20' x 40' patio with a paver one.

[@jdmo8633]

Alright then....come do my driveway and patio...in Minnesota!!!!

[@tallpaul8880]

So you’re saying the base doesn’t matter. Got it. Thanks for posting ✌🏼🇺🇸

[@Dirtmonkey]

Thanks for watching Paul!

[@kyleb209]

Good stuff. I’ll be able to use this a lot. Even if it was a little long... THAT’S WHAT SHE SAID!

[@Dirtmonkey]

Lol, thanks Kyle, glad that the vid will help you out!

[@kyleb209]

I didn’t really think the video was too long. I just felt like I needed that to make the joke work. Don’t change a thing. They’re all very helpful. Thank you for making them. 👍

[@99beta]

For permeable pavers add an additional 12in of clear 3/4in rock with drainage tubes under the 12in of 3/4in crusher run base.

[@SidebandSamurai]

Very good video, Keep doing this. I plan on replacing my driveway with pavers, and yes my driveway suffers from whole sections of concrete that has dropped down an inch in some spots because of a failure in the bedding. I am going to visit your "School" so I can see what you are offering. I subscribed today because you are always presenting valuable information I can use in my projects at home. Thank you very much.

[@Dirtmonkey]

Thank you and thanks for the subscription !

[@clacicle]

At 4:10 you talk about the shifting of the sand but forget the most obvious reason for the paver to sink. There’s a drain pipe right above that brick that dumps tons of water every year right onto it.

[@Ubastis]

At 4:04 it said water erosion, right after that picture came on screen.

[@paultrigger3798]

yea, it oversaturated the sand and the base below it.

[@dcj2045]

clacicle EXACTLY!!!

[@clacicle]

Cie Fy After watching it again, I did notice that. But still, it’s probably the most obvious reason and should have been mentioned. It’s an oversight. It happens.

[@AlbanySangat_Anoop]

I saw that too and thought it was the most obvious contributing factor. Nice video though - overall. Thank you

[@TWBlack]

Omg how on earth do I find a GOOD contractor for my VERY long gravel driveway?? I LOVE the way pavers look and think they'd be GREAT for our driveway. I know I went through nearly a month trying to get a roofer out to my house and I picked one off my insurance company's list but STILL it took forever to get him out here. Most of the contractors on the list wouldn't even call me back!! We've dealt with contractors a couple of times because of insurance covered probs (one was a flooded kitchen while we were away). My insurance company allows me to pick my own but I've got no clue so I take their list and start calling... I cannot believe the number of people that don't WANT the WORK!! Most didn't bother to call me back!! Now we have a gravel driveway that is being washed away because of poor drainage (when we bought the place 6 yrs ago everything was great) and we're not entirely sure how to drain properly... I know the MAIN prob is the downspout on the corner of our house, I believe that's the area with the major prob. I sure wish I knew there were contractors in my area as good as you are!! I will have to try and remember EVERYTHING you've said to try and find a good one!

[@bricktownrob783]

i have zero experience with pavers, so these may be stupid questions, but... 1) How do you clean pavers? I assume a power washer or even a hose nozzle would wash away the joint sand. 2) Can you grout or morter the paver joints? 3) What the installed cost/sq ft of pavers vs. concrete vs. asphalt? Somewhat related...I have a roughly 900 sq ft concrete patio that is showing wear/cracks, estimated age 50 yrs. Can I tile over the concrete? Patio is not covered, annual snowfall ~6".

[@Dirtmonkey]

clean with a pressure washer. no mortar or grout-only polymeric sand

[@ofantasticomundodetimbas]

I am a professional installer, 16 years doing this kind of jobs,one advice if you do elevation never steps on the sand or crushed concrete,I wish I can teach you how to do this job

[@jaboy123]

I have switched to 1/8 to 1/4 angular free draining in replacement of sand for paver and natural stone. Less washout and settling. Still use item 4 for base unless doing permeable pavers.

[@BikerFail16]

jaboy321 so you put pea gravel under your pavers as a bed? I’ve been trying to find info on this.

[@lincolntrains2639]

If pavers are in a place where pressure can be put on a certain part of the paver like on a patio I put 15:1 sand:cement just to give it some cohesion to counter the subsidence.

[@khadijahdavis1572]

I absolutely love this guy, he's such a smarty pants😁

[@fernandopena1274]

I have put soo much of your knowledge into practice. Thank you for all the knowledge! Worth it's weight in Gold!

[@willdavidsonakawd3062]

This is exactly what i learned in a summer class for my degree!!!

[@alanhowitzer]

What degree was that?

[@boydguie8129]

Excellent details. Great delivery also!!! Thanks.

[@doncrist2012]

after figuring the cost of crush and run,tamping the layers,washed sand and labor and delivery cost ,once the 7 inches of dirt was removed and graded we poured 4 inches of concrete and placed paver on top with the edges glued in place. 15 yrs later no problems. the cost was cheaper to do with concrete

[@kimchee94112]

For edging I use angle iron, drive rebar into ground and weld it together. 10 years since and has not moved. I just had some angle irons laying around at the time so it didn't cost me extra.

[@wbcook1000]

I just laid down a 57 ft driveway, and my edging is nails made from 1/2 inch rebar cut in 12 inch lengths, beveled on the ground side; one nail for each stone on both sides of each row.

[@Obamaistoast2012]

Proper preparation is key

[@jordankane2606]

Your driveways have held up as long as the wash on your denim. I am impressed!

[@jimmydoyle5874]

It would be neat if you did a comparison of your rock or asphalt base paver driveways vs a permeable driveway

[@user-fw8rd5ud4q]

You do a great job on all your videos. They’ve helped me a lot. Thanks so much!

[@oscarresendiz3923]

I like watching your videos it’s like my science class but I actually learn something I might use in the future thank you for making videos like this

[@Gulfraz.]

Huuuuge respect to the effort, skill and experience you put into these videos. As well as a good few dad jokes 😁👍

[@Dirtmonkey]

Thank you I really appreciate that!

[@Peggysue1970]

I’ve never used sand.. always used 2a for base and then limestone 1a to level.. tamp 2a and I also tamp my 1a ( bout 1inch then use second layer lightly and it almost turn like concrete but it’s not , then lay my brick and tamp, polymeric sand the cracks and wet it.. done many over 20 yrs ago and still look good

[@jameskoch7190]

Not much problem in the South. SB2, plate packer, and you are good to go.

[@Imwright720]

The driveways you show were cement based. If water gets under where it freezes it will tear it apart. They would have to maintain it to prevent it. Most don’t.

[@Maynardd]

Of course, each of their own, but I’ve seen more of that plastic edging fail than anything. Even within a couple of years. As you say the spikes rust. And when they rust, they rust to actually nothing. Dust! Therefore the edging fails. It doesn’t rust fall apart, and actually grab the soil better. I don’t know who comes up with this, but I’ve heard people say this more than once. And I think they say it to convince themselves It’s actually a good application. Tell me, if you’re trying to secure something and that fastener rust, is it going to hold? Absolutely not! in my opinion, the plastic edging is completely useless and a complete waste of money. Concrete only…. if done correctly, it will last for decades.

[@tazmik18]

Exactly the video i Need it. I always wonder why they use asphalt in the US instead of cobblestone.

[@the-chillian]

1:40 -- Time flies, don't it? On those 2,500 year old roads, most of the work of building them went into the base. Underneath the pavers were usually 4 layers: sand or compacted earth, crushed rock, cement and gravel, and sand, cement and gravel. There was some variation in different regions (the Roman Empire was big) but they paid a LOT of attention to this part of it.

[@mrzed2349]

Don't forget . 2500 years ago people actually cared about quality. They also took pride in building things that last

[@SarrosLandscaping]

plus the roman soldiers would kill the laborers (literally) if they could put their spear into any of the cracks...so the stones had to fit tightly. How's that for job motivation:)

[@KillaCaff1]

mr zed Inca builders were taught by reptilian overlords

[@episode6309]

So someone maintained those old paved roads, adding sand over the years or..

[@frankb5728]

also they had charriots.. the parts where the wheel rode are worn.. the rest isn't it.

[@Longestcomment350]

mr zed ..just use concrete edge curb for paver edging..y not

[@bjtaudio]

I mix sand and crusher dust and cement, to create a weak concrete like but stable base. Its way stronger and has never failed, better than compacted cruncher dust alone. My bedding sand is also mixed with cement. It also will stop weeds.

[@lewryGrant]

Im in uk someone has put type 1 down for a " re claimed" brick patio and IM now stuck with it what would YOU put next ??

[@aaronpiazzola849]

Legit. Thanks again. I am adding 4 feet to my crackcreat driveway like a walk along its side so my wife can get out of her car better in high heals.

[@Dirtmonkey]

Thanks Aaron !

[@phillipmytank2281]

I’d have to disagree with you about the joint sand causing the pavers to rotate. The spacers on the pavers themselves should maintain the spacing. The only reason there’s room for it to move is because the snap edge used as the edge restraint is insufficient and giving away due to the force of the system being exerted on it. A bond beam is the only long lasting method for an edge restraint. Yes concrete does crack, but only when laid out in big areas. Footers are concrete, that’s essentially what a bond beam is, a footer for the edge of the paver system. Love your videos though.

[@brianteller130]

All my work I put love in it it all last many yrs

[@enzoiadevaia9019]

U should use 3/8 chip stone instead of bedding sand and use 3/4 clean stone for the base. Utilizing an open graded base

[@michaelglynn2638]

Just the info I've been looking for, quick, clear and trustworthy. Thanks so much.

[@noelhohberger1188]

Learn tons of very good information. Thanks

[@Hannibhaal777]

2:47 the lines look like they shifted

[@GoldFaceFella]

Ancient people built it right. If it lasts 2500 years, that's solid.

[@kimchee94112]

We do not have the formula for Roman concrete either that lasted hundreds of years.

[@GoldFaceFella]

kimchee94112. Here's a link for Roman concrete formula. And it's lasted a court Le thousand years. news.berkeley.edu/2013/06/04/roman-concrete/

[@kbanghart]

And, remember some of those ancient structures and roads don't have heavy trucks rolling over them every day. That makes a difference.

[@mikegrant8490]

Generally pavers fail because of the substrate being inadequate. Period. Well, that and drainage issues. Build it to last through your great grandkids lives. Then, who cares? Great video, btw.

[@gagebrown2101]

A lot of small asphalt paving contractors will just backdrag some rock and then put in a 2 inch lift over it. It doesn’t last. You have to dig out soft spots and compact every layer.

[@nheinrich834]

Curious what the steepest driveway you would feel comfortable using pavers on?