How NOT to Build with Pavers- Why They FAIL! *DIY your own successful paver project

If you know why Pavers fail then you can build them to LAST! The 4 causes of Paver Failure is from bad base, Horizontal, Vertical & rotational failure. Some of these cross over into why Both Asphalt and Concrete fail as well. We discuss this simply enough to help anyone avoid these issues.
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[@popeye3305]

The vertical failure wouldn't have anything to do with the 3" downspout pour rainwater on the outside edge washing out your base? Huh. Been doing landscape and hardscape and irrigation for 25 years. I think you missed the elephant in the room. People, make sure to extend your drainage at least 10 feet down grade from your structure. This will save you costly repairs in the future.

[@Mondverg]

Thanks for your point!! Helps a lot!

[@mattlawwill7587]

How would that not rinse out the joint sand, once there is horizontal failure seems like water could rinse the base out pretty easily

[@PWN_Nation]

And not just paver damage...poor drainage also can destroy your actual foundation.

[@greenteambc]

You’re right buddy! And also they usually don’t tamp Right to the edge

[@willl5250]

1. Bedding sand between 0.75 and 1.0 inches thick 2. Use the right edge restraints 3. Polymeric sand in between pavers

[@scorpiuswireless1]

That’s 5% of it. Keep going.

[@SoftYoda]

@@scorpiuswireless1 tell me the other 95% of it !

[@dallasoben1017]

I've been watching your stuff for a while now. I'm a road maintenance Foreman just starting a small landscape / maintenance /fencing business. I find all your information to be very helpful. Thanks.

[@Wis-ti]

I work at a major home improvement store in their building materials department. I learned more in this video than in all of my training combined. Thank you!

[@Natedoc808]

Hey Stanley, I really appreciate your hard work and attention to detail in your videos. Thank you for taking the time to make your videos. I often view other videos on the same topics yet your videos always end up providing the most accurate and applicable information and how to.

[@gusmclovin3275]

Found tour site looking for info on building a paver patio and have found more useful and entertaining content than I expected. Thanks for the knowledge and humor. Your crew seem to be real craftsmen that care about the job they do. It's nice to see someone take the time to do it right. And thanks for making me re dig the 40 foot ditch I dug for conduit and put it back 4 inches at a time packed down. That hurt.

[@jpbiscaro8694]

I really appreciate all the knowledge you share, as well as video quality. There's a lot of stuff someone can learn from watching your channel

[@TimothySmithii]

Stan's video production quality is top notch. I haven't seen better shot video anywhere on the Internet. Just in the lighting I can tell he knows what he's doing, or someone does. Only thing I'd critique is the somewhat rigid, I'd argue old school, introductions to content. Whenever the "tip" lasts as long as the intro to the tip, your pacing is off. It would be perfect for TV, which is where I'd wager whomever edits these learned their craft, but that type of intro was largely due to commercials you don't have to battle for attention so is not needed, IMO. You already got us. Cut it out, or at least keep it to once at the beginning, tighten up the total run times, and you'll have some of the best, most dynamic content on the internet, and I'll bet your sub base increases. (Aside; there are a lot of producers going to apps with slick text overlays showing timestamps on the beginning of subjects so they don't need so much intro, plus it helps people using your videos for reference which I'd bet yours are.) Not that you need any pointers from some asshat on KZbin with no credentials. I just would want to hear this if the roles were reversed and one of my viewers saw something from his perspective I maybe couldn't/didn't. Then again I could be wrong on all of the above and you've already considered all the dynamics I am listing in which case cheers and please disregard the retard. Regardless, thanks for some really great content put together in a really professional fashion. For a dirt monkey.

[@melmyers4329]

My sons and I installed a paver driveway almost 25 years ago and it still looks great. When we put the "foundation" in we moistened and compacted it about every 2" for about 10". We used 20' long black iron screed rails to level the final sand before it was compacted, The only problem we've had has been ants love to nest in the sand. That good "foundation" has been the key to it still looking good.

[@noelhohberger1188]

Learn tons of very good information. Thanks

[@romegq]

Holy Crap! THANK YOU!!!! I've been in my new house for 5 years and the bricks on my backyard patio have underwent HORIZONTAL FAILURE (THANKS also for educating us on these terms!)...For some time I thought it was poor maintenance, or the kids playing too rough (3-4 years before failing, that has to have been a poor job). Now I have the confidence to proceed with a strategy to fix the problem, AND see that it never visits me again! Thanks Buddy!

[@djdeertz5450]

The biggest thing about longevity is polysand every 5 years, people fail to resand and then the pavers are free to twist and turn as they wish. Plastic edge restraints and stakes are a must also. 6-8" of 57 limestone tamped with a machine every few inches, then screen fines 1" thick. You also need to make sure that your base is contained and cannot be washed out over time, and if there is worry for a washout, drainage install is a must to keep the patio from sagging. Good video Stan. Youd be suprised how many companies dont do it the way you describe... its a shame. Job security I guess.

[@cashmoney7497]

@Ryan Carlen nice one. Ive installed pavers on my own house 7 years ago and still the same until a big truck carrying 20 ton screening sand made a piece sink. Other than that its still fine. I ordered the 20 ton sand so it was my fault. Funny thing is that the pavers had no base rock or screening sand. Just plain dirt

[@TWBlack]

Oh please tell me how to get a GOOD contractor. We've got a VERY long driveway (it's over 200ft) gravel and just seeing this about pavers (which I love) I wondered if they would work here and how I'd get a GOOD person to do this!

[@53philp]

@@TWBlack Good luck with that lol

[@kbanghart]

@@TWBlack I just got a quote for getting some pavers done. I would say, just ask the contractor to describe how far down he will go, and what layers he will do as a base. and, if they will describe that in the write up for your estimate. I would think that most of the shady ones would take off if you ask them for that information.

[@jamesnm21]

@@TWBlack contact a reputable company and ask them how they do their pavers. It will cost more to do it the right way of course.

[@mikecowan5786]

It's very useful Stan. Keep up the good and informative videos.

[@aaronnichols9444]

Love that you dumped a wealth of knowledge while fitting in a “that’s what she said” along the way. Well done!

[@danparker1925]

Thanks for the fantastic information. I also watched several other videos of yours laying base, sand and pavers. I only needed a 5’x7’ pad for a storage shed. It came out perfect and will last a lifetime. The one thing the videos don’t show is how hard the work is though. Lol Thank you again for the pro tips.

[@tigerdocsdc]

Perfect timing for this video since my plan is to replace my current 20' x 40' patio with a paver one.

[@bonanzatime]

Very well done, I'm impressed. .... another critical part of edging is it needs to have at least an inch of it running underneath the paver and sand bedding to 'Tie' it all together, so it 'moves' and 'flexes' TOGETHER, eliminating uneven settling of the pavers to the edging. The best edging I used was, I forgot the name, but it was company out of Minnesota. 'Pave Edge' something or other.?.

[@carlosmarin6171]

Great Tips, I am ready to start laying the pavers on my patio ...

[@Dirtmonkey]

Best of luck and hope it turns out great !

[@oscarresendiz3923]

I like watching your videos it’s like my science class but I actually learn something I might use in the future thank you for making videos like this

[@PatrickPaul1203]

I saw several videos that did a fine job of explaining what to do, you explained why you do things. Super useful

[@michaelglynn2638]

Just the info I've been looking for, quick, clear and trustworthy. Thanks so much.

[@EchoTangoSuitcase]

I specialize in Gravel driveways and I can say without a doubt that Stan is absolutely right about base material. The part of a surface that you walk on is the "wearing course", whether it's asphalt, concrete, pavers or #57 Limestone. (0.50" to 1.00" stones). Personally, I use 2" of #4 limestone over a triaxial geogrid (over a non-woven filter fabric in some soil conditions) and then top that with 6" of #411 Limestone and 2" of #57 Limestone. And that's for a light duty residential PARKING spot. For a light duty residential driveway I go 8" of 411's, for a HD residential driveway I go to 10" and for anything commercial I go to 12" and add a second layer of triaxial geogrid at the 6" mark. Gravel, sand and soil all behave as a fluid when under stress, which is nice when you are talking about movement from frost because it flexes and returns, but when you place more weight on a spot than it can distribute to whatever is supporting it, or if you add enough water to saturate the material and overcome it's frictional coefficient then things are going to move. You would never finish paint a wall before properly applying, sanding and priming the plaster and you should apply the same "get the basics right" philosophy to everything else. I also use the same Roman Road example of what you get when you get the base right and then protect it from erosion, so it was kind of cool to see that in the video.

[@sladjanbegic]

Would you recommend gravel as a base for patio pavers?

[@EchoTangoSuitcase]

@@sladjanbegic - Depends what you mean by "gravel", and what kind of pavers you're using. Size, shape, thickness, weight... Generally speaking, whatever the manufacturer recommends is the best choice. Could I see myself using something as large as "3/4 clear" (also known as #57) Sure. If what I was putting down were large, thick, heavy slabs. For what most people think of as pavers, I would probably just use sand, possibly grits, which has individual grains as large as kosher salt. There are several variables, but it's usually wise to stick to the tried & true, at least for most situations.

[@TheAnnoyingBoss]

I personally like the idea of moving away from paint and its difficulties. I saw a stone and wood beam house and it looked built to last 1000 years

[@camgere]

I found "Driveways, Paths and Patios" by Tony McCormack to be quite helpful (he's English). Maybe your library has it. Especially the pictures on pages 130, 170 and 171 that show all those confusing terms to us newbies: base, sub-base, grade, sub-grade, sand bed etc. He talks about Roman roads and they were fanatics about getting the drainage right. Coarse material on the bottom and finer material towards the top. OK, lot's of details involved. Nice video!

[@24KGarbage]

"not even a chip" LUL as he pans across a chipped stone hmmmm LOL i enjoy the videos just found it funny

[@edwardpadilla7543]

I totally thought the same thing.

[@kevinhussey2106]

But it wasn't

[@MrDeritamichael]

I thought this was hilarious as well.

[@ABetterLifeInc]

More like a chunk of brick. It was still a very nice driveway and holding up well.

[@terrythomas790]

@@ABetterLifeInc Look at 2:50. Not the chip, but the edge.. But after 23 yrs. Id expect something showing it age.

[@joshheinrichs4538]

I’m glad you mentioned about concrete borders, my boss makes us do it about 1/3 up the paver and when you’re butting up sod to the paver it’s so stupid, the sod dies, but he says “it’ll grow”

[@joshheinrichs4538]

Idk plus I just hate to work with concrete when they make something specifically to hold in pavers and is easy to install

[@jasonkraus2831]

Man - show him this video. Using the edge strips is faster, cheaper, and you get a better product for your customers. When I put mine in, it also let me move it a tiny bit if I made a mistake without having to bust a whole bunch of stuff up. Or - might be time for you to hang your shingle out as an installer of pavers and 'leave the nest'. Sounds like you at least know to open your eyes to better information.

[@jasonwebb5964]

ICPI specs call for plastic edging and non galvanized 9 inch spikes. The spikes rust in the ground and they'll never come up.

[@elainedepiero7405]

Josh Heinrichs would u install a edger butt up against the house for a patio or just at the end where it meets the grass or both? Thanks great vid

[@jimmydoyle5874]

It would be neat if you did a comparison of your rock or asphalt base paver driveways vs a permeable driveway

[@lafflaff2676]

We just had tiles places around some of our pool. Very expensive but the workers went down over 2 feet to start the base. Very professional..

[@makeitlastdan]

I always watch your videos. Your doing a great job. Lots of helpful info. Saving money and time. Thanks and God bless.

[@jordankane2606]

Your driveways have held up as long as the wash on your denim. I am impressed!

[@user-fw8rd5ud4q]

You do a great job on all your videos. They’ve helped me a lot. Thanks so much!

[@charlieslak5585]

Excellent video...& hilarious! especially "that's what she said." The added sound effects are great too. 😂🤣

[@ptaszek1983]

Thank you for the tips!!!

[@JRAD80847]

6,8 or 10" of base is my favorite thing you've said in this video. As an asphalt contractor for the last 15 years. Concrete borders will work amazingly if it's done like a curb and gutter, re-enforced with rebar and properly tied together (problem being many landscapers don't know best practice to achieve best results on this). In our area, lots of research and testing has found the best gravel to be used is fractured on 3 faces of the stone with a good combination of fines - in the compaction process, watering the base is an essential step for achieving maximum densities for the highest quality longest lasting base possible but it's important not to oversaturate the base and flood the sub base below it. In low lying areas or heavily saturated sub bases - cement stabilizing has been proven to be the most cost effective way to build roads where high quality materials aren't readily available; and, we also use in many applications 63mm concrete crush, a mixture of crushed concrete and asphalt no bigger than 63mm in size - 25mm = roughly 1" for those of you taught imperial over metric - in Canada we use both. The process goes like this 4-6" of concrete crush placed (roughed in), watered, graded and compacted then topped with a 20mm road crush 3/4" with lots of fracture in the stones - round stones are no beuno! They don't bind with each-other and the only time you can really get away with it is if you have absolute mammoth rollers that are crushing the stones while they're compacting 8 tonne plus in weight machines. (I highly doubt many landscapers are into $250,000 rolling machines per unit). And even if you buy and old used, not many landscapers are acclimated to moving that kind of weight around from job site to job site. All that to say, I know a lot about base, various mix designs in HMA (hot mix asphalt). A lot about concrete and a lot about geotextiles to fix saturation issues. But, I keep learning from you Stanley and keep coming back! Thank you!

[@Kirt2323]

Super good job in your explanation,. Clear, Concise & Complete!! Love it

[@Dirtmonkey]

Thank you !

[@512bb]

Thank you for your time & expertise, it was very helpful.

[@Maverick7r]

I gotta say I just found out channel and you're awesome!! I really wish I would've found you sooner!! Keep up the great work!!! :)

[@ifitsnotbrokenfixit1193]

Thanks for the video Stan. If I could give you more thumbs up i would it was nice to see another hound for a change.

[@dennishack3181]

Great information in a short video. I really like the informality of it. Keeps it light. Not promoting any specific product.

[@Dirtmonkey]

Thank you Dennis !

[@imprezobus]

I subscribed within first minute of watching. That doesn't normally happen. You struck me as a person who clearly knows what they are doing and are able to successfully relay that to other people.

[@fernandopena1274]

I have put soo much of your knowledge into practice. Thank you for all the knowledge! Worth it's weight in Gold!

[@willdavidsonakawd3062]

This is exactly what i learned in a summer class for my degree!!!

[@alanhowitzer]

What degree was that?

[@Gulfraz.]

Huuuuge respect to the effort, skill and experience you put into these videos. As well as a good few dad jokes 😁👍

[@Dirtmonkey]

Thank you I really appreciate that!

[@charlestredway8253]

That was the best, fastest to the point video of all of the videos out there.

[@Dirtmonkey]

Thanks Charles !

[@shyamdevadas6099]

This is a GREAT video, dude! Incredibly helpful! Many thanks!

[@kylefitzherbert9381]

Another great video with some great info. We have done a few sidewalks but we dont advertise for it at all. I personally think its fun because its a challenge for us. Oldest one is about 5 years old now and still looks good as new.

[@Dirtmonkey]

Thank you Kyle!

[@phillysphinest3946]

Always remember the 6 P’s Proper Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance

[@namewithheld8115]

Preparation & Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance

[@DivaInTheWoods]

Pretty Polly Paints Petite Pink Ponies

[@DivaInTheWoods]

Pretty Polly Paints Petite Pink Ponies

[@SidebandSamurai]

Very good video, Keep doing this. I plan on replacing my driveway with pavers, and yes my driveway suffers from whole sections of concrete that has dropped down an inch in some spots because of a failure in the bedding. I am going to visit your "School" so I can see what you are offering. I subscribed today because you are always presenting valuable information I can use in my projects at home. Thank you very much.

[@Dirtmonkey]

Thank you and thanks for the subscription !

[@Komuniecki]

Thanks for the tips. I have a 4" drainage PVC pipe buried about 8" to 9 inches below the surface of the compacted base across my driveway. I plan on installing brick pavers over top. With proper edging and compacting, do you anticipate that I might have issues with that portion of the driveway sinking? Pipe is hard PVC.

[@kylemcomber2063]

Would you still recommend the demonstrated paver edging when used against turf rather than actual grass? Or would concrete suffice in that scenario?

[@jamesperez1360]

From los angels ca, i likedcyr vidio.u got people skills.u explain the process in a good way

[@Pancho8091]

Wow really good information. I usually just put my pavers directly on the soil. This is good info to know.

[@jeremiahsaunders6390]

His work as really good. I couldnt help but chuckle a little when he said not a chip and one of the pavers clearly was broken

[@nathanplass2344]

U need to do more videos like this. Very informative

[@creativelandscapedesigns9493]

Stan, I'll give you a 10/10 on this information! 😎 - For a driveway base I recommend using a 2inch minus granular aggregate, the larger the size the better structure.

[@boydguie8129]

Excellent details. Great delivery also!!! Thanks.

[@jwmatt]

Great video! A lot of good info. You answered quite of few questions. Currently doing a small area, large paver patio. Pavers are 16”x24”x2 3/8”. Have you ever consider on doing a network show? It would do great.

[@dustinwag1167]

Really good video, you're stepping it up

[@Dirtmonkey]

Thanks Dustin!

[@shirolee]

Thank you so much for making this video!

[@jetnick3576]

I learned a lot. Thank you!

[@Dirtmonkey]

Awesome!

[@11d7th]

Thank you! Awesome video and great information!

[@khadijahdavis1572]

Ongeee, this guy's videos are thee most entertaining, informative videos I've seen😁, he just tickles me so much, i love this guy, I'd love to hang out with him, plus he's VERY easy on the eyes😅

[@AndricLibreSinn]

The wear and tear is not comparable between roads made in past Rome to now. That's an insane comparison.

[@Hannibhaal777]

2:47 the lines look like they shifted

[@birdflysfast7547]

Love your vids! ....Than you. What is your recommendation on preparing a clay based soil. I live in Oklahoma and I’m sitting on pretty much 80% clay. Not originally from here but we’re here on a military transfer. Noticed AFTER the fact that the builder threw down the sod on about 2-3”!! of soil. Would like to do a paver project but not sure how to deal with the clay......doesn’t drain for crap either!

[@AliAli-zc5vq]

Wow, I learnt a lot here. I have regular Pavers (no rock) and, they cleaned the Pavers and joints and rejointed w Polimeric sand, blowed excess, sprayed manually water w garden hose, let dry next day applied sealer and after 1.5 hrs started rain all day with times of medium to heavy rain. My driveway is on hill. Today I see sand down and I feel on top of the Pavers too. I'm thinking to apply more sealer. The worker left for vacation for a week. Polymeric sand.. Super Sand bond Sealer... Seal king Can I apply more sealer on top, after I blow the excess sand? Same sealer, same technique? Thank you

[@goaliev3]

do you guys ever use HPB (high performance bedding) in any of your projects in place of the bedding sand?

[@Hungrybird474]

Glad I do this this way already . Seen enough crap work over the years . Plus it feels good to know it's done as right as can be .

[@Thankful305]

MrAlbie 1970....you seem to know what your talking about and you responded to this year old video yesterday...I have a question I posted a few minutes ago... maybe you could answer.... I hope you or someone else can respond to this concern: We are using pavers and are dealing with protruding bricks on the house (at the base where the pavers need to fit flush) causing the pavers to be uneven. Obviously the purpose it to have nice straight lines. Now that it's halfway done and facing this new problem....Is there a workaround, without cutting or shaving down the brick? ?

[@tomvanhoesen9479]

Frost is a huge reason too. In the northeast there is no getting around it. We call'em heaves!

[@TheAlvinHuang]

Excellent video, keep it coming!

[@Dirtmonkey]

Plan on it Alvin, thank you !

[@BobBlarneystone]

I thing your advice is good for newer installations of pavers. But several concrete driveways were replaced on my street by the same contractor 25 years ago (in Michigan). No base prep was done after removal of the old concrete. The other concrete driveways have heaved and cracked, but my 75' x 20' driveway is intact. I attribute that to my digging of a drainage trench on the upslope side of the driveway - 12"x 12" x 12", with placement a socked perforated drainpipe and with pea gravel filling the ditch. This reduces water infiltration under the concrete slabs. My arms felt like they were 2" longer at the end of the trenching, but it's worked for me.

[@Dirtmonkey]

Thanks for the comments Bob!

[@Rich_Ice]

Great video, What would you recommend using as a border for a gravel driveway? Something to keep the gravel in and the dirt/grass out.

[@gurjeetbansal]

great tips. do these also apply to gravel patios? we are planning to build one ourselves using pea gravel (10mm tanned gravel). I wonder what's the best way to solidify the foundation (our soil in calgary, canada is clay like) and stabilize the surface gravel (mulch-lock or a binding agent). we plan to secure the gravel with bricks. I suppose those bricks will require the plastic edging where it's not sitting next to the grass (e.g. by the fence). thanks.

[@DarkRaptor99]

Whats your opinion on the new foam paver base systems the look interesting as it get's rid of having to deal with base material.

[@Clifford270]

You make good videos. Thank you. I'm sure alot goes into the production of these behind the scene.

[@Dirtmonkey]

Thanks Clifford270!

[@TheFrankpet]

This guy looks like the Richard Rawlings of masonry lol

[@davidfierro3650]

Spot on... haha

[@jessiedaniels6500]

I was going to subscribe but oh... look at that I'm already subscribed 🤣

[@NewHomeRoss]

good info sir, thank you for sharing

[@Freecan67]

Thanks for the tips. God Bless.

[@Dirtmonkey]

Thanks for watching 👍

[@bobbyo.8484]

Stanley I'm curious to know how much training would you require a tech to have in order to run solo or have enough experience to be able to install a paver patio 1, 2, 10 jobs? Really love to hear your professional opinion on this thanks

[@charlietuna5962]

Hey Stan, excellent video as always, and the added bonus of some humor to break it up, but I've got some questions. So I'd attempted to start a paver walkway base, dug down to remove all yew bush root material to prevent rot sinkage like the "one hot mess" job. Returned mostly clay packed at roughly every 2" with a small non-reversing plate compactor (300lb or so), then a layer of erosion fabric (forget the name) at approximately 8" from grade. Then that was topped with crushed limestone, also packed with same machine approximately every 2". Before pavers were ordered, found icicles (a whole different story) would be dripping/falling onto pavers and would prefer they fall into the garden box the walkway will be spaced off the home with. What would be your recommended edge against non-compacted fill, and in shifting/disturbing/digging up/out the settled crusher run, what would be the process to repack? Would I be best to completely remove the crushed limestone to plate compact every 2" again? I need to extend the garden box near 18" into the packed stone, therefore extending the opposite side of the planned walkway, against the turf, the same amount of 18", leaving only the middle of the crush in its solid state of compaction. Thanks for any suggestions, apologies for the confusing verbiage, as you can tell this isn't my area of expertise!

[@nheinrich834]

Curious what the steepest driveway you would feel comfortable using pavers on?

[@CTmoog]

Thank you!

[@fightinirishman9478]

6:13 "Thats what she said..." Had me rolling on the floor. So funny!

[@Dirtmonkey]

Lol, thanks for viewing

[@antoniokawarski6111]

Certain women like penises that are longer and/thicker. That's what the expression is alluding to. You're welcome.

[@fightinirishman9478]

@@antoniokawarski6111 Haha I definitely didn't need help understanding the joke, but thanks anyway lol. Still had me rolling on the floor.

[@PlumbDrumb]

I feel like a smarty pants now. Thanks for these tips!

[@douglaswines6456]

Question regarding base: Since I have to build up to a level I want, I don’t want to dig out additional dirt/soil. Can I build a base on top of the existing dirt? If so what preparations do I need to do before the stone and sand base is established?

[@Markedwinross]

Stanley, you mention using a "chop saw" to cut of several blocks at a time in place following a chalk line. This strategy would be very helpful for me in that I made the mistake of deciding to make an Octagon shape for my first paving project (eight 80 inch sides, paving with 4 x 8 inch bricks). I need to rent the saw and want to make sure I get the right one. Are you simply referring to a concrete saw? My space is such that I do not have to be exact. My thought is to do a single row Sailor Course for a boarder, then fill in a cross to cover four of the sides and all of the middle. This would leave four triangles to fill in which I assume will result in lots of waste. As far as cutting in place goes maybe it would be better to do the triangles first, cut, and then fill in the cross? Any suggestions are appreciated.

[@yeryangchang5000]

Very detailed and easy to follow. Best vdo. Instant subscriber.

[@Dirtmonkey]

Really appreciate that, thanks for being here !

[@dawgla1171]

great info. have seen pavers being pressure washed. with ordinary joint sand seems the sand would get blown out of the joints causing horiz failure. with polymeric, is it possible to pressure wash pavers? under what scenario is it possible to "clean" pavers? thanks!

[@SafeguardControlsLLC]

Thanks for the information.

[@Dirtmonkey]

Hope it helps!

[@infamouskid2010]

My contractor recommends concrete edge restraint for my new pathway made of 2’x4’ large, 2.5” thick bluestone tiles. There is no grass in this area, just decorative gravel, so grass cooking is not the issue. Is concrete restraint ok then or should he use metal restraint edge?

[@lifewithmandn928]

Excellent video! So great to watch

[@DanielinLaTuna]

Here in Southern California I’ve used red brick for paving the driveway; looks awesome and has resisted many cement truck and dumptruck (with ten yards of sand/gravel material) over the years. I used nine inches of compacted sand over twelve inches of 3/4 sharp gravel. Maybe I was lucky.

[@GardengalAAA]

And it’ll all be over when that big one hits lol

[@DanielinLaTuna]

@@GardengalAAA now looking like “The Big One” is actually overdue in Seattle… may actually impact as far as Portland, and Vancouver BC Unfortunately, gonna be bigger than San Andeas

[@huntzt3711]

Stan I love your videos. Your carpet needs replace lol. That what I do for living. Install flooring.

[@plumber77mjr]

is the one you did 23yrs ago, maintained or did you use polymer sand? Do you offer to go back and do the maintenance and if so, in what intervals

[@scottmcintosh2988]

Have you ever used recycled asphalt ? For base as it packs so well !

[@johncalvello4105]

Great video, thanks for the tips! What would you use to transition a raised paver patio to grass? It steps down about 5 in.

[@lisamunro7404]

If you find out let me know, I have a drop from the yard to the driveway and I don't know how to fix it so the bricks don't slant down after the base washes out from rain 😊

[@gabemalcolm4429]

Great information! Stan

[@radekw708]

Any issues with using the edger on the inside of the interlock so it goes under the stone? I did that for my patio seems to hold up well after 3 years no issue and it looks cleaner. I was wondering if can do same for driveway. Certainly looks cleaner, no need to bury from the outside.

[@hernandez5586]

Should I compact sub-grade?. And if so I have nothing but clay (Cincinnati OH) so should I use a Jumping Jack Compactor/Plate Compactor or a Hand Tamp?. Project is about 300sq ft. I planned on using anywhere from 6-8 crush for base. Thanks for your answers.

[@mikehilvers1682]

I worked for a landscape company for 3 years it was always clay then crushed 4 s then dirty 9s (pea gravel with sand). Never a layer of just sand. Always rock solid, I saw jobs that they had done 20 years prior and they still looked brand new except for the weathering of the pavers/stone obviously. But I agree what's underneath is always key to a project lasting.

[@kbanghart]

I have a question, hopefully it's not too dumb. So, looking to replace some nasty looking dirt and mud in my backyard with something more sturdy. Thinking about doing pavers, but couldn't figure out how to get the entire area really level, then I realized maybe what I can do is pour a concrete slab first, then install some decorative pavers on top. Maybe use one of those plastic or rubber concrete forms where you can choose the design of paver you want. That way I wouldn't have to install each individual paver separately. Thoughts? It will only need to handle foot traffic.

[@kbanghart]

to go along with my other post, the reason I'm saying a concrete slab, is cuz I want to avoid doing all the sand or gravel and screeding. Maybe it's really stupid because concrete is such a pain. But it wouldn't be a huge area.

[@stonemaster1217]

Plen122 is better to use crushed concrete why you wanna pour fresh concrete and then pavers? They only do that on the Streets for cars

[@kbanghart]

@@stonemaster1217 it's okay I changed my mind, I'm just going to use those triangular concrete support things for the corners, then build a wood deck, and put pavers on top. The ones you click together.

[@michaeless658]

@@kbanghart concrete is the only base for pavers if you want quality.

[@MadHatter11371]

Do you recommend drainage under patio and driveways does the water heave pavers in the winter? Thanks