How Often Do The World's Best Climbers Train?

How Often Do The World's Best Climbers Train? | ft. Nathaniel Coleman

Рет қаралды 21,754

Күн бұрын

Пікірлер: 8

@thenuggetclimbing Жыл бұрын

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@heymanliam Жыл бұрын

Did you get an idea of what percentage of time in their training was spent stressing their fingers (climbing/board training) versus other forms of training?

@vincentd333 Жыл бұрын

Nathaniel said 50/50.

@Chef8898 Жыл бұрын

Why no questions about intensity?

@hidden546 Ай бұрын

For people who are wondering what a 10 hour training day would look like for an elite level climber, I was lucky enough to speak to one at the Olympics and it was explained to me like this Day starts at 7 am Breakfast, morning stretches, free time etc Head to gym and warm up (cardio, free routine, etc.) 9 am - official training day starts 9-10 am - light activation drills, scapular engagement, warming up hips and shoulders, some dynamic stretching, very light fingerboard hangs to warm up fingers 10 am - watching videos of past climbs with coach, addressing areas to work on 10-11 am - spray wall drills (focusing on specific things to improve) 11:30 - break, food, head to PT 12:30 - physical therapy and massage to prep for main training session 1 2:00 - afternoon training session 1 2-4:30 pm - hard limit bouldering, working on comp wall problems set, etc 5 - eat, break, foam roll etc 6-7 - free time 7 pm head to gym for evening session 7:30 - 10 pm 7:30 - volume session, working on weakness or power endurance 9-10 pm - general strength and conditioning etc 10:30 - eat if hungry or straight to bed to repeat Some days focus on volume, max hangs, or power endurance, not every day is the same Its also not 10 hours of straight training, but more of a 10 hour work day