Inaccurate Climbing Advice I Hear Every Day (EVEN FROM PROS!)

- SUPER SIMPLE TRAINING LOG (make a copy for yourself): docs.google.com/spreadsheets/...
- MORE COMPLEX LOG: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/...
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE: www.hoopersbeta.com/store
👕 Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: [e-mail]
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
SPECIAL HOOPER'S BETA OFFERS & DISCOUNTS:
➡️ 20% off Frictitious hangboard+doorway mount: frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=...
➡️ Free shipping on any Frictitious product with code "hoopers": frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=...
➡️ 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): app.kayaclimb.com/share/affil...
➡️ $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code "hoopersbeta": shorturl.at/mnxU5
➡️ REI (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
➡️ The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: www.thewallclimbinggym.com/
➡️ Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
➡️ KZbin Memberships: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
OUR SERVICES:
⚕️INJURY & REHAB CONSULTS - JASON (virtual and in-person): www.hoopersbeta.com/private-s...
🧗 CLIMBING COACHING - DAN (virtual and in-person): [e-mail] or testpiececlimbing.com/schedul...
🎥 VIDEO SERVICES - EMILE (videography for KZbin, climbing videos, Instagram, etc.): email [e-mail]
WHO ARE WE?
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
🔬 RESEARCH CITATIONS
- Molecular mechanisms of exercise contributing to tissue regeneration - bit.ly/3zHKNLm
- A Randomized Controlled Trial Comparing Traditional Plaster Cast Rehabilitation With Functional Walking Boot Rehabilitation for Acute Achilles Tendon Ruptures - bit.ly/43dr5Vl
- Muscle and tendon adaptations to moderate load eccentric vs. concentric resistance exercise in young and older males - bit.ly/3ocZdk1
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro and Context
00:32 Most common advice for new climbers, ever?
03:09 An excuse/misunderstanding about finger strength
06:33 Your tendons are probably perfectly fine, here's why
08:31 Huge rehab mistake
10:06 One of the most costly training mistakes climbers make
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 127
www.hoopersbeta.com/library/i...
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS
tendon anatomy: Laboratoires Servier, CC BY-SA 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy

[@HoopersBeta]

Remember a huge part of what determines "good" or "bad" advice is the context in which it's given! This can make ALL the difference. What common climbing advice do you think tends to be poorly communicated?

[@dec4dent]

Definitely saw a lot of "don't ever hangboard until you've been climbing 25 years" online, but doing some nice gentle hangs on good edges on days when I wasn't climbing made my fingers a lot stronger a lot faster, going from constantly having little tweaks to 0 pain before, during or after climbing.

[@DonatRC]

As someone who has coached beginner climbers for more than 10 years I think you missed an important aspect of “straight arm” climbing. I use it to teach weight shifting and the use of rotational core movement to generate a lot of the force in a move. If your arms are straight it’s easier to feel how your weight wants to shift and adjust for it (context dependant) and arbitrarily forcing the use straight arms teachers people how to gain reach by twisting their body into their arm that is holding onto the wall. Once climbers get these basics down then you can start to move beyond them… I find the harder the grade is the less these basic ideas apply. I.e. the need for lock offs etc…

[@HoopersBeta]

We're not advocating against climbing with straight arms -- as we said in the video it's an extremely useful technique, but it needs to be given with the correct context and used for the right situations (just like you're doing with your coaching).

[@MrPILI86]

Get 2 sizes down on your (first) pair of climbing shoes.

[@mirandamccoubrey1714]

​@Petyo Iliev omg yes! I now have bunions from that bad advice🤦‍♀️I now wear proper shoes that fit and I climb better lol

[@ReaperUnreal]

The toe flexing scene absolutely killed me, well done. Great info in here too, very useful and actionable.

[@HoopersBeta]

Haha thank you! Yeah I don't know why we haven't made a video about specific toe extensor training yet but it's now top of the priority list... ;)

[@fraserthomas7256]

@@HoopersBeta Maybe next April? :D

[@jonny4233]

We need more close-ups of Jason strenuously working out random body parts.

[@izenlonghurst4589]

Every time I watch one of your videos then look at how many subs you have I'm shocked. Please keep making videos because they really are one of the best resources for research backed climbing content. You helped me discover that my injury was in fact not a pulley problem like everyone said, but actually a lumbrical strain. I used your rehab guide and now I'm back in the pockets with no pain and more strength than ever. You guys are a godsend for the vast majority of people that could never afford to see a specialist for such a minor yet annoying problem. For real, thank you!

[@gingobingo1567]

Cannot believe it either, they should have at least 500k subscriptions and more views.

[@HoopersBeta]

Thanks so much :)

[@jeremyng1021]

Exactly the same sentiments. They are a godsent

[@th3fra1dycat]

This is the only climbing channel I feel obligated to share with other climbers, so informative! You and lattice training are taking Climbing science to its next stages!

[@HoopersBeta]

We appreciate the kind words! Thank you for sharing that.

[@nathanmagtoto]

The format of this video is honestly outstanding, especially the summary comparisons after each section. Thanks for the thoughtful and super informative content!

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you! We appreciate the kind feedback!

[@sommer1982official]

Those toes stretching the rubber 😂 I love how you educate and entertain at the same time 👌 Keep up the great work!

[@altaris2000]

As someone who has dislocated my one shoulder multiple times(all prior to getting into climbing), the "straight arm/hang from your skeleton" comment always made me cringe and gave a little ptsd, since I knew that would just lead to another dislocation for me. Nice to hear some balance on that :)

[@HoopersBeta]

Thanks for sharing! It's great to have perspective from someone who has dealt with this before!

[@Jambassador]

Most underrated climbing channel ever! Thanks for all of your hard work 💪💯!

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you for the support! We appreciate you saying that.

[@RFrecka]

Appreciate the nuance here. Rare to see in climbing training videos, but doing the community a service with this one!

[@nathanp3366]

Dave McLeod has a great video on how he rehabbed one of his injuries. It was quite the contrast to how I would traditionally think to rehab them. If I recall correctly, he rested maybe one day and then began light rehab the next day.

[@zachrossi3590]

I love how in depth you guys go to redirect the narrative on each topic. This is such an illuminating video!

[@HoopersBeta]

Glad to hear it, thank you!

[@deanabowman9661]

The whiteboard in the background has a warm up I want to hear more about! So glad to have stumbled on your videos - all of them are great advice, thoroughly explained, and entertaining too!

[@jeremyng1021]

I really really love every videos you have uploaded. So informative and you back it with research studies too. Love you guys!!!!

[@HoopersBeta]

Stoked that you are enjoying them! Thank youuuu for the support!

[@ponsilliusvii6290]

These videos are the best, thank you so much for the time and effort you put in to them

[@tjalfeholmquist]

Is hypertrophy training relevant to climbers? (episode suggestion) POSTULATE: We need to build huge forearms (like bodybuilders) and then "make them useful" by increasing the neural recruitment and RFD while training (e.g on a hangboard). The issue is that our isometric training on a hangboard/training board isn't the most effective way of inducing BOTH mechanical and metabolic stress to increase hypertrophy, partly due to the limited range of motion. Bodybuilders/arm lifters have much bigger forearms than climbers (and the strength/weigth ratio is negligible for us, because of the small muscle group). What's your view on this Hooper's? Hypertrophy training seems weirdly overlooked in training protocols, despite its possible benefits. Lots of studies could be including in such an episode. - Finger strength isn't everything, but it certainly is a key factor for climbing performance. Great video BTW!💪

[@brotherpupper]

Advice number 4 about rest is EXACTLY what I’m experiencing right now. I had an injury in my hand, but then had to take 2 months off of climbing because of an unrelated surgery. I was extremely frustrated to return to climbing and still feel that same pain after 2 months of “full rest”. If you have any suggestions, what would be the best way to identify the injury and plan a recovery? Just reach out to a PT?

[@bscutajar]

Not a PT or a professional climber, my background is armwrestling. I've been training seriously for it and competing for the past 6 years. My advice is, when you get an injury is to keep training but focus on other areas. So for example, if you feel pain when crimping, keep climbing but try working on slopers instead. Definitely don't stop climbing and wait for your injury to heal, you're just wasting precious time that can be used to improve in other areas. After a while you will find that you can crimp again, and you just got much better at slopers in the meantime. Win-win.

[@williamtakeda]

You should keep moving to heal, specially if its tendons, only resting wont do the trick, thats what PT focus on

[@oleshikaru]

These videos are forever great, but man, give this guy an oscar for an outstanding performance!😂

[@HoopersBeta]

I keep sending in videos to the academy to apply but I haven't heard back yet *heavy sigh* lol :P

[@garretehrick6137]

So comprehensive, thanks Hooper!

[@alexgalays910]

I think this is my favorite video to date! Really cool advices.

[@HoopersBeta]

Awesome, stoked you liked it!

[@gunnargrunke]

I love how you incorporate more b-roll from you climbing. the video is far more interesting if I can watch someone climb or show what is said. thanks for your great work keep going!

[@jonkrause6714]

Truly an amazing video and 🙏. Finally making more sense of things. Liked that all weaknesses don’t necessarily mean it requires training and not comparing to other people because your goal may be different. 👍

[@HoopersBeta]

Awesome! Those are definitely two great takeaways to have from this vid.

[@AllegraClimbingPsychologist]

Great video! I think about the last part of training your weakness has also the pro that makes you more motivated because you can see a faster progress, although is often hard to even start because of our threatened ego ("I'm not as strong as I thought!"). I think it's about a balance on how much and how often you are training them (under the condition of those being relevant, of course). Focusing too much on other types of goals (sending a crimpy project after another), will just make you improve less and less on the long run.

[@alexgalays910]

I think it's relevant if you are really trying to be an extremely well rounded climbers across all styles. But I don't think most people actually are happier this way, hehe.

[@Zephromonia]

Great video! Best climbing training content on youtube (IMO)

[@HoopersBeta]

Thanks so much :)

[@pavelbelik6174]

Hi Hooper! Thanks for the great vid. Regarding straight arms. I feel the main problem is that it is much harder if not impossible to engage your back properly and therefore take some load off of the fingers and generate tension. However I can see this approach helps the beginners to better work with their center of mass - keep it lower and move it from side to side. So maybe we could start saying sth like climb on slightly bent arms 😅

[@terriblegamers2213]

Happy I found your channel. I'm also a PT and hear bad advice from other climbers lol

[@zackaryclarke3227]

Hoopers the man!

[@bluemeaford]

Main Takeaway: Not using finger extensor bands for my toes has been holding me back a few grades. (excellent video btw 🙌🏻)

[@HoopersBeta]

haha :) Due to your spacing in this comment, the comment preview only showed me "Main Takeaway". Once I clicked on it, I got a nice chuckle reading the full comment ;) Thank you for the laugh and for the kind comment!

[@HungNguyen-gr2rc]

yah, I actually learned to engage more of my back and shoulder muscles after hurting my shoulders mutiples times though, especialy inn some dyno moves when I have to actively bending my arms and engage more back muscle to deload the force put on my shoulder joints ~~

[@varbaek]

I took a year of resting from climbing and it only felt better when I started going to a regular gum slowly lifting light to bit heavier weight over a few months. Went back to a climbing gym a few weeks ago and climbed two 5's which I struggled with in the past.

[@iFkNxLegend]

I've been climbing for about 3 months and the "climb with straight arms" advice has been more confusing than helpful. I'll practice the sequence you gave. Thank you

[@HoopersBeta]

We hope that helps clear things up for ya!

[@gpn962]

Very helpful 🎉

[@maximedelmas]

2:37 : YES, this needs to be a new shirt!

[@HoopersBeta]

Haha perhaps a special edition release ;)

[@tediousgeorge7159]

I did not know it before I ended up here, but I've been looking for this channel. So far, each video I've played goes through something I've been asking myself the last couple of months, regarding how to improve my climbing. Ok, 'each video' might be hyperbole, but it sounds better than 'most videos'. Anyway, baller content.

[@HoopersBeta]

Awesome, thanks for joining the community!

[@forest-qh7jf]

the toe curl cut was pure comedy gold

[@timdolinger1352]

"Hanging from your skeleton" sounds like the end of a threat

[@bigluvundo2112]

absolute gold

[@nathanrice7352]

I think common conception on tendons can be completely aligned with your take if you swap the terms "tendon strength" and "tendon growth" to "Tendon resistance to elongation." As soon as that verbiage change is made, you basically agree with the concensus.

[@christophauer2347]

Great video, totally learned a thing or two, thanks! How would you suggest to train finger flexor muscles?

[@HoopersBeta]

Climbing, hangboarding, or “no hangs”/block pulls :) which one is right for you depends on your goals and experience level

[@BrillouinBoi]

Worst advice I’ve been hearing from some friends lately is that you should be “training as much as possible, every day if you can”

[@Aaron-xq6hv]

I think that might take the cake for worst advice I've ever heard.

[@larryseibold4287]

yep. its a balance. you only get stronger when you are resting (exercise makes you weaker, tearing down tissue), but you must have a reason for rest (exercise) and too much rest makes you weaker and weaker.

[@ConnorKrohnicles]

The idea of “active rest” did wonders for me in parkour. I felt if I just did nothing, I lost some of my strength and stamina.

[@chauntellecariveau3128]

New shirt!

[@zofiastankiewicz7032]

Re poorly communicated common advice for beginners: "you only need to climb to train climbing". While it's true that it makes sense in general, it gives the impression that (a) you can just climb mindlessly without focusing on how you can train and improve more effectively or correct your mistakes, (b) you don't need additional strength training etc. to improve. (b) is very individual, if you're a bro in your 20s who's been hitting the gym regularly, maybe you don't need it, but as a female who started indoor bouldering in her 40s, adding strength/weight training once a week was super helpful, particularly to make progress on overhangs. Thank you for always keeping it nuanced on this channel!

[@HoopersBeta]

Thanks for sharing! :) Great perspective

[@autodidacticasaurus]

Thanks man; This is what I needed to hear today (Having a really bad time with injuries on the verge of giving up on active rehab.)

[@HoopersBeta]

Oh noooo don't give up on the active rehab :) Sometimes you just need more info (or the right info hah)

[@guntersissoko6280]

You discussed the fact that you need to strengthen the muscles rather than the tendons to increase the strength of voluntary contractions of the fingers. This seems somewhat related to the idea that Tyler Nelson has been putting out there that after a certain point you're only training passive tension with eccentric-like isometrics, and that concentric-like isometrics avoid that. My very basic understanding of passive tension in muscles and tendons is that it is the force generated passively by muscles and tendons to resist elongation (like elongating a spring). Because tendons should elongate under load, it makes sense to me that they passively add some force to the system when you load your fingers, but it isn't clear to be why that would be different in eccentric-like vs concentric-like isometrics. It also strikes me as unlikely that the passive tension generated by elongating tendons is trainable to the tune of 10s of pounds. Could you comment/clarify this idea?

[@RyuzakiVsLight]

as someone who has only been climbing aa few months, do you have any advice on recognizing what the "relevant weaknesses" are? when you describe it it makes sense. but when i go to the gym, do you have any advice on identifying core/fundamental issues? im definitely guilty of thinking things like "oh i just need to get stronger" - only to realize i actually am strong enough, im just doing something simple, very poorly. maybe the answer is just, climb more and hope i start recognizing my issues. but i would like to train things if i could, knwing those are holding me back - hope im making sense and i love the videos

[@Will-kt5jk]

I’ve not heard the first 2 exactly as stated, more the moderate version of “you can save energy by climbing straight arm in some situations”. On tendon strength - I think I must have de-balanced muscles at my elbows - managed to get tennis elbow from climbing, seemingly the muscles developed fast, but maybe not evenly (there are a lot of directions the muscle can pull in that area, so I probably developed un-evenly, but my tendon is what took the pain.

[@MohamedAshraf-fw1dc]

You've just answered like 4 Qs that plagued me for a long while and I'm forever grateful, I thought these Qs would get addressed randomly over years, you straight up plowed through them I love you people

[@HoopersBeta]

Oh dang, talk about efficiency! Glad we were able to help clear those up for you :)

[@seekelectricity]

New climber in desperate need of some advice. I started climbing a few months ago, and I love it. I'm obsessed with it. But I'm already dealing with tendon pains. They usually go away within a few days, but if I try a harder climb with crimps the pain can get pretty bad. I've had tendon pains in my forearms (both sides of my forearms) and in my biceps. I've done extensive research but nothing seems to help that much. I do pushups, light bicep curls, reverse wrist curls, etc. I warm up for at least 15 minutes using a dynamic climbing stretch routine. Always do pushups before climbing and after climbing. Static stretching post climb too. I've tried taking a whole week off. I've read that rest helps but i've also read peer reviewed research that says active rehab is better than rest. I've also considered that i'm doing too much and dropped the quantity of active rehab down a bit. But still, it seems impossible to go climbing and not come away with some kind of tendon pain. What am I doing wrong? For context i'm 5'8, about 150 lbs. pretty lean. one important detail is that i was pretty sedentary for several years before starting climbing. and i have rods and screws in my thoracic spine.

[@atariks1475]

What comes to my mind is the number of tries on a hard or crimpy boulder. One or two tries and no pain or 10 tries? Personally I'm very cautious with stuff a I cant hold and only do a few gos. I had problems with climbers elbow and golfers elbow when climbing slopers. After I changed to just 3 to 5 gos and a dedicated warm up routine for my elbows it has gone away. That helped me. Main question is the number of tries.

[@HoopersBeta]

From what you're saying nothing jumps off the page of anything you're doing "wrong" but there is obviously something that may be contributing to the issues. The most obvious that comes to mind is in relation to Atariks contribution as well. Pay attention not only to the amount of attempts you give challenging problems, but also the total volume and intensity of your climbing. Perhaps also consider changing your climbing routine to include some easier days that are more focused on technique and problem reading and make sure not every day is just a pure try hard day.

[@slobodanbulovic9385]

Maybe is related to your hard job and low amount of resting/sleeping

[@zacharylaschober]

Introducing exercises, especially light ones, will not resolve this issue. The volume of climbing and training is likely too high, exacerbated by throwing extra exercises in straining positions under loads which support the idea the tissue is damaged and needs to be protected. What you are asking for is somewhat within the scope of this video and others on this channel, but needs a qualified coach.

[@Mrperson662]

It’s easy when you’re new and stoked to write checks your body can’t cash. Your body just needs time to adapt. Climbing is really really hard on the body. Also: If you want to climb hard, climb less. If you want to climb more, climb easy.

[@Twohunnidpercent]

Maybe you can help me with pain in the back on my wrist! Mainly with slopers or pinches especially in flexion

[@MB-co6qj]

Any advice on how to return to climbing after a broken finger?(pinky in my case)

[@TheKevinFanClub526]

Would love to know what are some proper Climbing Advice for beginners. Like the first 5 things new climber should focus on.

[@eSKAone-]

This video is hilarious😂(in a good sense)💟🌌☮️

[@scrubbasher]

I just got forearm tendinitis recently. Shit sucks didn't have enough rest days.

[@Utilisateurpasvalide]

A good advice I got is to film yourself when you climb !

[@temp229009]

My takeaway is dont read reddit

[@crispycrimps865]

I agri-gri with this video

[@bailenmurphy6770]

When is a good time to start active recovery?

[@roverknight2502]

As by the common bad advice you talked about in the video, I've never hangboarded since I started climbing around 2 years ago, but I always thought it was not recommended for beginners because you'd risk damaging your pulleys if you lack proper finger strength. Is this also a factor that plays into this or is it of no or little concern?

[@mzkabn]

I think I need to try the wonky baton balance routine

[@HoopersBeta]

It’s definitely the secret sauce

[@wdwdHenry9022]

maybe you can make a program and explain how to open hips for flexibility?

[@whatbanebreaks]

I hope this works for my tweaked finger! I'm trying it out!

[@HoopersBeta]

Hopefully it helps you!

[@toddgreen6862]

0:46 Clearly you have a lockoff weakness and if you just did some isometrics you'd climb several grades higher. Joking aside, my elbow tendons were ready to explode watching you climb like that! ;) Double joking aside, you really do deserve more subs. Thanks for all the time and effort you put into this channel!

[@HoopersBeta]

I've decided to climb like that at least 92% of the time now, for the gainz. Haha, thank you though, we appreciate the kind words!

[@obscurelines]

I have fairly strong fingers and have certainly trained hangboard a lot, but I still wonder if it makes sense as part of supplementary training to hang when I already spend 6 hours a week or more climbing?

[@HoopersBeta]

If you know how to manage the load/fatigue well enough and it fits with your goals then it’s absolutely worthwhile! 6 hours of climber per week isn’t all that much. -Emile

[@griffinb6683]

I encourage people to train their strengths.

[@GrafAndras]

The last one killed me 😂

[@Mrperson662]

All I can say is that I was a spraylord in my first few years of climbing. I wish I could go back in time and slap myself

[@micha8615]

7:51 If finger strength comes mainly from finger flexor muscles, wouldn't it make more sense to do exercises like finger curls or wrist curls instead hangboarding? I am not expert but usually we build strength (quicker) from contracting muscle. Is finger flexor different and responds better to isometrics (hangs) or is hangboarding prescribed just because it is safer method than finger curls? Great video as always.

[@HoopersBeta]

It's a tricky subject because of specificity, loads to specific structures, etc. For example, doing a finger roll with a weight won't place the same forces on the pulley system that we often need to stimulate the pulley's. Another example, hitting a hold while actively climbing is more of an isometric activity (usually) so hangboarding can be a bit more specific. Are finger rolls good for training the FDP muscle/tendon though? Yes they certainly can be, but also then there's the factor of how much weight can you actually load on the dumbbell or other item you're using before it simply because hard to manage/control. All of that is to say that it's definitely not a bad exercise and I've included it in many suggestions before! It just depends on the individual and their current training and/or rehab needs :) I still do eccentric finger rolls in a neutral position with some of my forearm training! :)

[@zacharylaschober]

not incorrect on but those would not be the exercises I prescribe to a client and hangboarding has a certain value. Eccentric like exercises as with an isometric yielding hang will still develop fdp/fds strength, but this relies on the stretching of titin and locking mechanism of the fingers more and more as weight increases. The majority of my finger exercises involve concentrics and isometric overcoming positions with a lift implement, but most training is done on the wall, especially with boards. We have used hangboards for years for the simplicity and because this looks more similar to climbing, and while the structures in the fingers are complex and rather unique in certain aspects what they adapt to is alike any other muscle tendon unit.

[@nunyanunya4147]

ALRIGHT! another video on youtube that says 'no matter how you are doing it... you are doing it wrong!"

[@HoopersBeta]

Except we tell you how to do it right ;)

[@nunyanunya4147]

@@HoopersBeta (untill next video)

[@HoopersBeta]

When have we contradicted ourselves?

[@jomaier9195]

My climbing trainer also told me to stay in the lower grade for the first couple of years :( Now I find out I could have done all the hard routes way earlier...

[@gezzapk]

Why would you even listen to that advice lol

[@a.a7931]

How do you have a good chest when it is not built that much with climbing? Any tips?

[@HoopersBeta]

Ring dips and bench press work well :) -Emile

[@Moooooooooag]

Full crimps! I’m always told to never full crimp, that it gives “false confidence”

[@HoopersBeta]

Ignore whoever told you that; full crimping is extremely useful, though it can be more injurious than other grip positions if not used/trained wisely. -Emile

[@jhy8191]

Worst piece of advice: any beta from a climber taller than me 😆 But seriously great video - makes me extra glad you are my physio!

[@HoopersBeta]

haha :) That's fair! I try to give Aleena advice on beta frequently (she willingly accepts it ;)) and it's almost always better when I simply watch her move vs when I try it myself. Once I try it myself I can't undo/unfeel the taller beta.

[@alexgalays910]

But the reverse is also true :) "I would just get your foot on this impossibly high hold then apply a ton of pressure with your very, very bent leg"

[@maximedelmas]

9:47 : do you know if the pro climbers' fat fingers come from very thick tendons?

[@HoopersBeta]

It would be neat to measure the CSA (cross sectional area) of a group of professional climbers and compare that to different groups (non-climbers, new, intermediate, etc).

[@jrwhisky]

I love it, but I still think the stronger tendons argument has merit. I came tried to improve my climbing using power lifting methods on my forearms. Which worked amazing for me on squat and D.L. not so with climbing. But if you take a page from the tiny arm wrestling geeks who can take down 200 lb bodybuilding monsters you'll see that higher degree of tendon focus is necessary, IN MY OPINION of course.

[@maximedelmas]

I was here first!

[@sebastiansullivan4770]

But aren't you shifting the load from your muscles to your joints predominantly. Like isn't there's something to be said about utilizing the load bearing capacity of the joints over the muscles and isn't that what is meant when telling someone to hang from their skeleton? Like when doing a hand jam for example.

[@joshwilliams8863]

The "climbing with straight arms" was a huge one for me! I erroneously thought you were supposed to just passively hang off your bones and tendons, and ended up hurting my shoulder quite badly. It was only after watching a few of your other videos that addressed that where I realised you can't "hang off your skeleton" without good shoulder engagement! In retrospect, that should have been obvious. But when you're just starting out, you tend to take a lot of what is said by the community (right or wrong) as gospel! Thank you for dispelling the myths in a scientifically rigorous way.

[@HoopersBeta]

Thanks for sharing your perspective and experience! Albeit anecdotally, it's nice when it lines up with what we know scientifically. I like to call that... Anec'DATA'lly ;) haha

[@joshwilliams8863]

@@HoopersBeta It's definitely preferred! I'm a scientist myself, so I understand the physics of all this. But my biology and physiology is somewhat lacking. It's part of why I love your youtube videos so much! I find it much easier to understand and remember tips and tricks when you break down the "why" of things. Keep doing what you're doing! I plug your channel all the time at my gym.

[@tina9866]

I have another problem with keeping the arms streicht. I can overextend my elbows slightly so when I rely on my "skeletal structure" and not use any muscles its easy to get injured. I also have been injured before so I have to actively think about engaging my muscles to prevent further injury.

[@olivierdlc1833]

There is always a limit in the number of things you can train. Weakness are often dangerous futur injurie for me so i like to train a lot of things. A healthy body is 100% necessary to succeed long term. But yeah it's sometimes hard to know what the body need to be healthy...

[@m_sedziwoj]

8:40 when you break pulley they will not go back to normal, never (at last without operation)

[@HoopersBeta]

That’s incorrect. Sometimes even full pulley ruptures can heal without surgery.

[@m_sedziwoj]

@@HoopersBeta source, because as tendons they are physically separated, so can not "get together".

[@HoopersBeta]

A quick google search will bring up various sources for you to look at. Here's one: pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/12825883/ Single pulley ruptures generally heal with conservative care.

[@SunilSharma-re1hq]

👍

[@lucaa4480]

What grades do you climb?

[@HoopersBeta]

all of them ;)

[@beepbopboop3221]

I'm pretty sure my hangboard issue has more to do with being overweight. I climb on crimps easier than slopers, which I can't wrap my head around the technique. New climbers can totally use crimps or not. I think new climbers should do what they like and just have fun.

[@beepbopboop3221]

The only bad but well-meaning advice I got as a new climber was to trust my feet! I had bunions and still have one and restricted ROM now. I have good reason not to trust my feet! I do, however, trust the mats or autobelay and do my best to adapt my climbing to the needs of my feet. Climbing helps my feet more than my feet hinder my climbing, if that makes sense. I actually will do 15m bouldering to warm up my feet for yoga.

[@alexgalays910]

"Hanging from your skeleton" I swear I heard that on my very first gym visit :D It really puzzled me. "Uh, yes, uh, like, all the time?" kzbin.info/www/bejne/f4aYYmapqq-NsLs

[@HoopersBeta]

haha I have no regrets clicking that link!!

[@daveb427]

You've really never heard of anyone rupturing a flexor tendon due to climbing? Well, let me be your first. Partially torn in wrist, confirmed with MRI. Took many months to heal and a lot of physio.

[@HoopersBeta]

Sorry to hear about the injury! A partial tear isn't the same as a rupture, though. But glad you were able to get physio and heal up!

[@daveb427]

@@HoopersBeta Thanks for the reply! Yeah, it's mostly fine now. Climbing was a big part of my life at the time so having to take an extended break wasn't great mentally. So is a rupture a complete tear? By the way... loving your videos. Thanks for all the great content. Lots of of training things I wasn't aware of, and lots of things I've probably been doing wrong over the years.

[@yamchoonhian]

Everything in this vdo is rubbish except the toe extension exercise!!! 😂 Ok, seriously I'm getting more & more blown away with each new episode! It's as funny as it is informative. ❤❤❤❤❤

[@HoopersBeta]

haha we should have named the video "99.9% of climbers aren't doing this exercise and it's destroying their progress!" :) Glad you're enjoying the vids though!

[@constanceelaine3909]

@hoopersbeta what about age? Tendons for people over 50 or 60 also regenerate in a couple of weeks?

[@xGA115xx]

which pants are those?

[@HoopersBeta]

Prana Brions

[@andrewwebber421]

Surely the “tendon” mistake is really a terminology error - what people really mean is the pulleys in your hands which are actually ligaments that hold the tendons in place. It’s pulley injuries that seem most common. It effects the tendons though as when the pulley goes the tendon then “bowstring”

[@HoopersBeta]

That’s certainly one common mistake climbers make, but definitely not the only one when it comes to tendons

[@czatax]

I saw very popular graph showing that biggest gains for soft tissue strenghtening is made in 2 years of regular stimulation and then curve is flattening. Where did that information come from? Is this fake info or there is misconception about way soft tissue improves? I suppose people don't believe that after 2 years there is magical pop in fingers and now they have 3x stronger tendons/pulleys, but response to stimulation is greater at the beggining but obviously happens immediately after training and real misconception is people suggest that newbies should wait with their hangboard training and crimping until they have certainty that their soft tissue is able to hold that much force which I don't believe is 100% mistake but exaggerated

[@HoopersBeta]

I’m not familiar with that graph, can you send a link? Does it have a scientific source or is it just something someone made up?

[@czatax]

@@HoopersBeta I found graph but quick research didn't lead to any scientific source. So there is no need to waste more time to explore this topic. Anyway if you are still interested, this is it: www.rowperfect.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/ReduceInjury.jpg

[@adrianboehm]

🇨🇦❤️

[@muumarlin1731]

12:18 - I feel seen

[@oldboarbrain]

Ackshually: The Video

[@jeremyng1021]

2nd w00t🎉😂

[@fiery_transition]

I hope the toe/finger elastics joke are not an actual exercise, but sadly in this day and age, I have my doubts 🤣

[@HoopersBeta]

Haha fair! The finger thing is legit, the toe was totally made up. But when I say legit I mean... it certainly has it's uses in rehab especially for occupational therapy and/or surgeries, but as a training tool for climbers.... less useful ;)

[@craigbritton1089]

I think some of the " other" worst advice climbers do is too encourage climbing and training till they end the session with multiple failures. Thus the last thing the body and mind remember is multiple failures.

[@HoopersBeta]

That's a good one! Climbers have a habit of going to failure/exhaustion during climbing and training sessions, and while for some purposes that is absolutely useful, it's definitely not good for all situations/goals.

[@Emil_Ortiz]

Advice I have heard and dislike for newer climbers: just do mileage.

[@Joe-ij6of]

So that’s what I’ve been missing… toe reps

[@HoopersBeta]

99% of climbers are missing it, sadly :/ hah

[@snake_plant]

Love the video but just some gentle feedback on the AG1 sponsorship - I think it detracts slightly from the channel's scientific focus. I do know many, many fitness channels feature this too but their marketing strategy does feel incredibly cynical; omitting vital (and dirt-cheap) Vit D3 but then having it as a "free bonus" to entice custom - I'd understand for a cheap supp but not then best when this is an ultra-premium priced supplement ($2.5-$3 a day). But love the channel and glad to see you are getting big sponsors all the same. ❤

[@p00ya_]

As someone who has ruptured multiple tendons over their athletic career (running, not climbing), I can certainly attest to tendon strength rather than muscle strength being the limiting factor in some sports. They definitely don't heal in a matter of weeks either, it was months of rehab after surgery to return to competition.

[@A.Lancaster55]

If your shoes don’t hurt, they’re too big. 🤦‍♂️

[@HoopersBeta]

😂 oh man that’s a bad one