How Rusty is My Rover Metro? - Metro Restoration, Part 1

My beloved Rover Metro needs some serious work, so today we're beginning the strip down to see just how much rust we can uncover.
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[@Ricketik65]

Well, that's not bad at all! I genuinely felt a sigh of relief, after having watched Furious Driving's Ford and its disintegrated sills just yesterday. Poor Matt. Little Melvin has some more good years ahead of him with the tlc you're giving him. Keep up the good work.

[@TwinCam]

Nothing that can’t be repaired, but far from ‘not bad at all’ when the rear structure of the car needs removing!

[@Curiousdriving]

That was a stressful watch

[@peterriggall8409]

Yeah, whoever bodged that Ford Victoria should be in the back of one on the way to the lockup.

[@wilsjane]

@@TwinCam The answer now, is after making any repairs, to saturate everything with Waxoil, including removing the rubber plugs and treating he insides of the sills, along with any other box sections including the suspension and needless to say, not forgetting the doors, tailgate and bonnet. By far the best way is putting the gallon cans in a wash-boiler of bucket of hot water to turn it into a liquid, and spraying it in with a paint spray gun. It is easy to use more than a gallon of waxoil to fully treat the car, but worth every penny. Prior to the days when the manufacturers started using zinc coated steel, I treated all my cars when they were new, so none of the bolts and screws were rusted and difficult to remove. My 11,000 was like new when I sold it after about 5 years and my Audi 100 was completely rust free after 24 years. After about 10 years, I softened the waxoil up again with a gallon of WD40. I first developed all this, to preserve the steelwork on buildings, including 3 London theaters, where the canopies overhang the street. Preserving a car from new, took a couple of days, since I removed internal trims and carpets. People thought that I was crazy, but I got the last laugh. During the process, I also added additional sound deadening under the carpets. Covering the interior with aluminium kitchen foil after treatment, prevented the oil soaking up into the carpets and added cathodic protection.

[@russellhammond4373]

Young knees, young legs, young back. I remember those days when playing around with my cars. Good luck with the project.

[@colrhodes377]

Melvin is in good hands. We need more enthusiasts like you who are prepared to look after lovely older cars.

[@ahirvonea]

After 500+ different cars more or less considered mainstream popular classics or so, I find the oddities (even the mundane ones) more and more interesting. I cannot but respect effort put into this Metro, and frankly looks to be in a a very, very good condition for what it is.

[@simonchampa9961]

Thumbs up from me for tackling an unsexy British car. Big respect

[@a11csc]

glad that melvin is getting the care it deserves ed

[@TwoGuysandaRide]

Love that you're having fun with all the rotten bits

[@patrickhostler5939]

I remember when I first passed my test, my mum had an MG Metro. I absolutely adored that car. I’m amazed at how relatively simple it is to dismantle yours. No stupid electronics means a bit of skill, logic, and a good set of tools are all you need to enjoy a great hobby and lovely car!!!❤

[@barryjackson8512]

That’s really not in bad shape. I had an identical H reg 23 years ago and that was horrendous. I can’t wait to see the progress on Melvin, such a great little car. 😎

[@TwinCam]

I wouldn’t say it’s ‘not bad’, but I’m going all the way now while the rest of the car’s alright!

[@the123king]

@@TwinCam Ehhh... That rear wheel arch is the big issue, but more importantly, you /knew/ it was a big problem. What makes it "not bad" is that the rest of the car isn't like swiss cheese. Take the wins where you can, and spend that money you'd otherwise plough into new floor pans etc into getting all ofthat rear end fixed properly, and well. I like these older base model cars. It's a bit repetitive seeing MGBs and Ford Capris at car shows, so much so that the highlight of one that i visited recently was, for me, a lovely J reg Nissan Micra.

[@TwinCam]

Absolutely. Far beyond my pay grade, needing to remove both rear valances, but I know it's there.

[@peterriggall8409]

You have picked a good time to do this before things get serious. We are so lucky in Australia that rust is so seldom a problem. The heat and sun ruins paint and upholstery but that is probably easier to fix. Top job.

[@bernardcromarty485]

Before binning the carpet underlay, use it to make a paper pattern for the replacement!

[@FastAsFunk]

Unbelievably good for a 30+ year old Metro...! I had a white 1994 1.1S and it went back under factory warranty twice for corrosion issues...!

[@GentilsGarage]

You know what? This is almost like when I stripped down my E30 13 year ago. Rust in similar places too! Looking forward to see the progress on this one.

[@wkdmind1170]

Good luck and thanks for sharing your journey. For a Metro of its age its worth saving and It's great to see a younger generation embracing the addiction.

[@neilmustow368]

Wow so pleased the floors weren't rotten Ed just Melvin's tail end

[@dquad]

Always good to keep old cars going. I've had my '83 Toyota Starlet for 10 years now and still use it daily.

[@thebigcheese6606]

Great video. Nice to see the metro getting some love. Good for it's age. 1986 metro s. Had rusty arches less than 5 years later.

[@markdoyle6414]

Those wee hatchbacks have fantastic space with a few bits of interior removed.

[@richardhalliday6469]

You say in your introduction that your Metro needs some serious work ! What you have uncovered is far from serious considering the age and our climate. Now you have discovered the problem areas, once rectified and with regular maintenance you will have a tidy classic for years to come.

[@TwinCam]

Considering the entire rear end of the car needs removing and that wheel arch, I wouldn’t call it ‘far from serious’.

[@neilpickup237]

@@TwinCam Although far better a lot of rust in a few areas, than less rust in many!

[@TwinCam]

Absolutely! It’s why I’m doing it properly now rather than just patching up that arch. The entire shell can be studied and protected while the rest is repaired.

[@stevecoinitin7521]

Had an X reg Metro in 1992, no rust, good car. An F reg City X in 2000, brilliant car for what I threw at it. Used to commute 148 miles round trip for work, 6 days a week and the car loved it!

[@mikewa2]

No matter what you do it will always be a Metro!

[@TwinCam]

You say that as if it’s a bad thing.

[@Roverjoe]

Great Video Ed, May be worth removing that Sound Deadening. It can hide things although in your case it doesn't look that bad at all, I removed the Civics Sound Deadening and ended up finding more rust! but then again that was parked on grass!

[@TwinCam]

Oh I definitely will be, just once the stripdown is complete.

[@roberttaylor6295]

I felt quite emotional watching this but well done on the Biblical saving of Melvin for the future. What impressed me most was your editing as I would like to bet a pound to a penny that the more you discovered rust, or screws and clips were damnably recalcitrant, your language slipped from your usual, enthusiastic, smiling bonhomie to outbursts of juicy Anglo Saxon! Lol. We are witnessing a motoring resurrection and I can't wait for the coming episodic slow rising heavenward of a much loved motor by its devoted owner! Thank you, Rob

[@mikeclifton7778]

Considering it is at least ten years older than Mr Furious's Crown Victim it's really good, relatively easy and cost effective to repair and give Melvin a new lease of life, looking forward to the series of videos on the restoration.

[@matthewc.419]

And folk call B.L for rust !!!!!

[@willswheels283]

When you said “the whole rear end is rotten” I was expecting MUCH worse, as it stands it’s not too horrendous! I would like to say though that whoever had the repairs done previously couldn’t or didn’t want to afford to pay a body shop the prices they charge to do that welding and fabricating “Properly” so they had some corners cut, it’s possible also that those repairs were carried out when the car was worth less than it is now. All the best with the restoration mate.👍

[@TwinCam]

I mean, the entire rear end panel work will need to come off to do the inner rear valance! It's a shame such poor work was done, and it is when it was worth a little less, but these cars have never been worth that much. Was still very much a classic though. It was in 2015!

[@wukongdukong16]

Honestly compared to my mgb I’m now restoring that doesn’t look that bad at all. Good luck with the restoration.

[@simonc858]

Fabulous Sunday morning video, great to see the rust is not any worse than you expected, looking forward to the restoration

[@robk3596]

Trust me that's not what I class as bad & very doable! Ah the old curse of double skinning. Had exactly the same on my old Skoda pickup. Forever repairing & patching up the rear strut turrets! Corrosion killed it in the end. You're so right in saying check everything when buying, as often the worst is hidden from sight! Great work my friend & look forward to your progress posts! 👍😉

[@70mmbobbyj]

Looking forward to these videos. I think you'll need a fair few boxes to put everything in.

[@TwinCam]

I certainly will! I have a few, but I need to head out and buy many, many more. Fortunately, I already have loads of zip lock bags for all the fasteners.

[@TheCurlyP]

Nicely caught, think you've got this in good time. Great to see the progress:)

[@grayfool]

A very good result. Certainly not bad at all. I've seen some Mtros that were much younger than Melvin without floors or sills. Good one.

[@craigcolavito5606]

ahhh some late night viewing!! thanks Ed

[@daudder]

Just amazed at your confidence (moxy?) in taking the car apart...:)

[@tricialyn4645]

I enjoyed watching this. I learned a lot! You're very brave in removing so many bits TY for sharing

[@zenography7923]

I really don't think that rust is too bad at all - I've welded up far worse than that, not just once either! You have a beautiful little car there, once it's welded up it will be very nice indeed. Well done for keeping it on the road.

[@Samson1]

Fancy seeing you here! Interested in cars? 😁

[@cjmillsnun]

The crank pulley is correct and was fitted to all K series of that era. It's for the power steering on R8 200/400s which runs off a separate belt. There will be timing marks at the back. The rust could've been a lot worse. At least you know to concentrate the efforts at the rear now. Make sure the whole thing is protected when it goes back together and you'll get many more years of reliable motoring.

[@ryanwilliams6526]

I was just about to comment that it's for power steering. The one on my 211 is the same. However, that is the incorrect one for this Metro. I also have a J reg Metro, and mine doesn't have the part for the power steering belt.

[@TwinCam]

Certainly not on an early K-Series Metro. Seen enough of them to know!

[@adrianfowles7250]

What are you doing to me!? You're making me want to buy a K-series Metro! 😱

[@scottstrails9369]

Great to see this cool car ,we built a brand new Gti race car in 91 for the race series..handy to say hello at the Ormskirk Motorfest if your around

[@neilpickup237]

This shows how quickly rust resistance improved. Just a decade or two earlier,, some cars were far worse than your thirty year old car at three years old, and could fail their very first MOT for structural rust! Eight to ten years was about as long as you expected before too many mass produced cars became a 'banger'! P.S. Don't mention Lancia - brilliant cars, but totally incabable of surviving in our climate and salty winter roads.

[@robmk3]

That's a good result 👍, get onto that leak in the front while he's all stripped out.

[@TwinCam]

The shell's being stripped in its entirety, so all the seals etc. are being renewed!

[@richardyardley5127]

While you're at it you may want to consider swapping the engine out for a 1.8 VVC MG TF engine, with it's 5 speed gear box. An easy swap apparently. Just add uprated drive shafts and fuel pump and you're good to go go go!

[@TwinCam]

Not for me, I’m afraid. A VVC is just too much power for a Metro, and while hundreds of people have done it and love their cars, I’d prefer a little less power with some more personality. There are plans afoot 🤭

[@warrenny]

"When I bought it I didn't know enough about cars to check the structural integrity” I felt that. It's a tough blow, but it's a good learning experience. 👍

[@TwinCam]

It’s more that I didn’t know enough about Metros and how they’re constructed to be able to tell that the original arches are clearly still there under the new ones. If I’d have known how to check for that, I might not have bought this one, but I’m glad I did ❤️

[@skyll4141]

pretty solid for a metro.

[@ccooper8785]

7:04 So that is where my 10mm socket went !!! I will have that back, if you please....

[@EcstasyCo]

Great video! I've literally just done the same to my MK2 Polo to ensure the floors were okay and like yours, the Underlay and foam was damp. Unfortunately my floors didn't fare as well as yours. Can't wait to see the Metro back on the road again!

[@BRED510]

That really isnt bad for rust, I wouldn't describe it as horrendously rusty (assuming he's all good underneath), hes fared pretty well for a 32yr old Metro (or most cars in general tbh).

[@TwinCam]

Apart from the inner rear valance not existing anymore, I suppose 🤣

[@BRED510]

​@Twin-Cam it's still fairly minor in the grand scheme.

[@TwinCam]

Better than having to do the floors, the inner wings, etc!

[@iansutherlandcraig]

Great video and good luck with the repairs. I bet you could do a bit of crowd funding to help you on your way. You deserve a leg up.

[@TwinCam]

Thanks Ian :)

[@ianstewartorr8455]

My first car in 1982 was a N reg mk 1 escort just like sugar in your tea it dissolves too I had two metros a 1.0 L Austin and a rover 1.1 S that one I really liked it went like shit of a shovel take your time you can and will fix it. That arch is a big one but on renewal of panels drown it in wax or similar to preserve I remember getting into the metro you had to give your leg a good swing to get it over the sill have a wonderful restoration greetings and good luck from scotland 🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧

[@replevideo6096]

I noticed after a while that the hoodie you are wearing is the same as the one I bought recently. It was in a local supermarket and I went in there for food, not intending to buy any clothes. When I saw it on the rack I knew I just had to have it and for just £30 it looked like good value. Anyway, I'm excited to see how you get on with the Metro restoration. I would love to be able to do he same with a Hillman Imp but alas I do not have the money or the physical ability. Because of the ills of old age, I now have to pay others to do the work on my car which I could once do myself.

[@nathanlucas6465]

I'm sure like many people of my age, I passed my test in one of those! A J reg one that had been rear ended the day before and had the bootlid held shut with a bungee cord!

[@35dononeill]

Hopefully, you'll have it up & running by the end of July. FOTU

[@TwinCam]

HA!

[@flybobbie1449]

Funny how most basic cars are fun. I have had TR7, RX7, MGTF, now Z4, yet the little Peugeot 106 diesel i had for several years was the one that owed me nothing, cheap, cheerful, economical. I wish i still had it as a winter runaround.

[@michaeltutty1540]

Melvin is a solid wee beastie. The rear arches are not even bad for a 32 year old car. Around here thst would be normal to good for a 10 year old car! Arthur is going to wait another 2 years before he gets this treatment. I will restore the old Volvo before i move south to Belize where he will no longer be subjected to snow as high as the belt line. I am afraid Arthur will need a good bit more than Melvin, but thrn again Arthur is just over 391,000 miles.

[@GateKommand]

I enjoyed the vid - thank you and keep them coming please!

[@RobbieHerrera]

What a relief that it’s not as bad as you thought. It’s so nice that you still have your first-ever car.

[@simonbanks3112]

So good to see a young guy getting dirty and practical with his car(s) :) (And I say that as an old guy who never does anything to his car!) If the front outer wings appear to have been removed/refitted, is it possible that they are not the original wings, hence lack of tin-worm?

[@TwinCam]

They will be the originals. They don't rust. It's always the inner wing that goes!

[@GenaF]

I loved my metro, I bought it with the money I saved after giving up smoking. Mine had lots of fibreglass on it 😂

[@alansorbie4038]

I had a 1983 metro as my first car in 1993. Rear arches and front valance were all filler and within 6 months the front footwells had disappeared too. The inner a pillar panels each side of the dash also seemed a bit crunchy but I ignored that…..😂

[@andrewthompsonuk1]

Most people disagree however the best way to stop rust such as in those seams is to apply liquid rust converter a number of times then once all dry coat the whole seam with Copperslip grease, use lots of it. Yes its messy, no its not factory..however grease will leach into the seam and will keep leaching into the seam as the hidden rust falls off. Its all about whats in the seams.

[@colinblick4903]

I had the mk1 turbo…. Which only required front valance….. you’ve got a pretty good motor there best of luck😎👍🏼

[@flybobbie1449]

Metro the car every one knocked, but for basic transport you couldn't beat them. I had customer driving instructor who bought them new. He would do 150k miles on a single clutch. Had 3 over 15 years. Last i think was diesel. We bought one for sister to practise pass test and i rented was it 114gsi Kensington, thought it a great runner.

[@neilrwilliams218]

That's still in better condition than my 91 H reg was when I sold it in 2000. Mine had the optional rear wash/wipe and the union wasn't great, so it had squirted washer fluid inside the bootlid leading to more rust.

[@markhuckercelticcrossbows7887]

hiya, what have you got on melvyn, 175/60 or 50? put rear archs n sills on mine last summer, was at gaydon for the metro mini show. saving for the respray this year.

[@Richard-Bullock]

The very worst thing about going on a rust hunt on a classic car is, you ALWAYS find at least some!

[@darrensmith6999]

I think considering Melvin's age he's doing very well !!

[@thomasfrancis5747]

May be consider clear spray wax on interior before refitting trim (but after the welding!) - looks like you can access sill cavities from there as well?

[@TwinCam]

There will be some serious rust prevention before reassembly!

[@neildaniel8232]

You've scored good result there, just regular stuff and all worth doing too. At least previous owners haven't done any major balls-ups like one did on my Mini! They put oversills on it and rather than stitch them in on the edge of the floorpan they welded them on halfway into the floorpan. Annoyingly the floorpan is completely mint and original (34 years old!) and removing the oversills will most likely damage it so new floorpan it is. The rest of the car is opposite to Melvin though, rear is pretty much mint but the front is close to rotten, whole new front end is going on. Still, all part of the fun of older cars!

[@paulketchupwitheverything767]

I had a J registration 5 door Metro with a K series engine as a run around for a few years. Rust at the back around the radius arm mount resulting in a MOT failure was the end of it. I'd fancied one for a while and saw mine with low mileage (thirty something) for sale locally. I would have preferred a 3 door, like Melvin. Enjoyed mine and liked the way the engine responded. Felt that some of the cheap trim and interior and a problem with a door hinge let it down a bit. Good luck with the restoration. Maybe an opportunity for some MIG welding practise to keep the costs down? Some local colleges run evening classes in welding to get people started.

[@TwinCam]

That's one of the places I still need to take a closer look at. Didn't think it was worth it until the rear subframe was out, as either way it's being fixed!

[@turnfordguitars]

Those outer arches aren't a problem, (cut them out,weld in new ones). It's the inner arches that could be an issue! You won't know how bad till you cut out the outers! And for the rear valance, easy job! I think you should buy a cheap mig welder & teach yourself to weld! It'll make great content!👍

[@davefrench3608]

Was expecting far worse. Looks like the rot is actually only where you knew it was.

[@ololiver92]

Not as bad as Matt's discovery on Furious Driving 😢

[@mitchellharris9854]

I’m approaching a similar situation with my mgb Henry. I bought him 5 years ago when I was 18 and driven him 50,000 miles. He will need fenders and doors, and more I’m sure I’ll find.

[@Pinzpilot101]

The diesel Rover metro was a very good car......economical, you could even take one on the motorway and a nice drive.

[@fishtigua]

I am Metro Man. I love them, had loads. Even got Dad to buy a few. Proper Dad car until he discovered the Micra, still got his 3rd. Me? 7th Alfa.

[@martingarrish4082]

If you are rebuilding the bodywork then it's definitely worth retrofitting front suspension damper mounting panels from a GTa. The lower wishbone already has the mounting points for a damper. You'll find that an adjustable damper at low setting subtly improves the handling without compromising the amazing ride. Also the rear hydragas units have a "load assist" spring to increase rear suspension frequency, so that car heterodynes over a bump. The problem is that this dials in oversteer, so you definitely want to fit a front antiroll bar to even out front/rear roll stiffness bias. I can't remember if there was a softer front antiroll bar option but go for that if you can, and do not be tempted to fit a rear antiroll bar. The bit that killed "Merlin the happy pig" was the front subframe mount to the underfloor panel. Like you say, the sound absorber retains water, so remove the plastic plugs and pump this area full of hot wax at the same time as the sills etc. I actually replaced the sound absorbing foam with sealed sleeping mats (but too late). Definitely consider extending the subframe mounting panels rearwards to seat x-members to make the car stronger and more crashworthy (the original design is dangerous). Rover should have spent money developing the car rear of the A-posts. So, I can't imagine any classic car fan complaining that you made the improvements that should have been there in the first place. Always nice to see engineering modifications done for the right reasons.

[@TwinCam]

Hi Martin, thanks for the comment! The next part of this series will be along next month where I’ll be removing the doors, dash, and interior wiring loom. The plan at the moment is to go to town with the mountings for all the suspension additions, so shocks at the front and anti-roll bars, as well as some general reinforcing. But despite all the mountings, I’m not initially going to fit any additional parts. I want to experience the original as-new Hydragas, then tune it to my liking based on where I feel it needs improvement. I think I’ll definitely fit adjustable shock absorbers, but I want to test it all and experiment first 🙂

[@martingarrish4082]

@@TwinCam , brilliant plan. Hydragas was another undersold British innovation. Definitely, worth making the comparison with a contemporary of the Rover Metro like a VW Polo Mk3. My experience of the Polo is that it is more competent but less enjoyable. I definitely miss the double wishbones and hydragas over the pothole filled fen roads.

[@TwinCam]

With the Hydragas as is, with little gas remaining, I don’t feel it needs anything other than a quicker steering rack and some new bushes/ball joints. But once it has the suppleness back, I imagine I’m going to want to modify from original.

[@martingarrish4082]

@@TwinCam , your plan to run the original setup to begin with is sound. After finding my Rover Metro pointing the wrong way on a grass verge, because I threw it into a roundabout too fast, I sought out the suspension engineers that developed it. Some good discussions and several coffees later (I still have various charts for tyre slip angles), I learned about the limitations of the original set-up. For instance the rear wheels have ~2 degrees of toe-in to introduce oversteer correction without use of compliant bushes. The set-up with front roll bar only and light damper setting was a result of these discussions, and I was pleased with the result. Trick is not to overdamp the front because you can't easily retrofit rear dampers, so just enough to to improve the response to steering input but no more. It was a sad day for hydragas was when it was removed from the MG TF, which otherwise had a good set-up...

[@jh565bb]

Unfortunately those cars had a tendency to rust after 3 years, so honestly you did well to get one in as good condition. They usually went under the wheel arches first, still at least its being restored.

[@nr5494]

I’ve restored a few BL cars in my time, and compared to most of them, that looks brand new. Rotten? No way.. Had a new BRG 1.4 Metro in 1990 as a second co car, and it was great.

[@michaelbolt4530]

I had a 1996 100 from my mum it, didn’t even have a 12v socket, i fitted lecky windows central locking to it and the 12v socket and a rev counter

[@stuwilsonrallying]

That is not bad at all, I'm pretty sure that would pass a MOT.

[@TwinCam]

I don’t think it would, not with the outer arch being sharp and the arch strengthener having a clear hole in it.

[@mossi408]

I really miss my 114. 😢

[@maxeluy]

This is the time when bolts and little parts get lost. So be careful and use a lot of bags with indications!

[@TwinCam]

Don't worry, I have many ziplock bags full of fasteners!

[@thistimeimhere]

My brother had a very similar maybe even thr same spec metro in late 90s. It was already rotten then, held together with duck tape ans atleast 3 holes you could stick your hand through including having no back floor on one aude due to a leaky sunroof. Melvin is in remarkable condition considering these where rot boxes at a couple years old.

[@malachycurry9813]

That crank pulley is the standard one! Timing mark is a little notch in the very edge of it

[@TwinCam]

I'll send you a message on Insta. Might be standard on later Metros, but certainly not on an early car!

[@matthewadams4207]

Cute as heck

[@arthurdardalis]

That’s actually ok, minor stuff. Now the interior is out, it’s the ideal opportunity to absolutely plaster every nook and cranny with Waxoyl or similar. Stripped my mk3 Capri interior in 1994, absolutely drenched everything that could be drenched, still rust free

[@TwinCam]

I wouldn’t call needing to remove the rear end structure to do both valances ‘minor’ 🤣

[@usuallyfixingtinkering]

Waxoyl is nowhere near as good as Dynax UC - which would be appropriate for Melvin as it's a clear wax to help show the underbody colour and it's far less messy to apply

[@TwinCam]

Dynax is smashing stuff. In fact, everything Bilt Hamber does appears to be fantastic.

[@arthurdardalis]

@@TwinCam compared to doing the floors, yes it’s minor, you have to “judge” rust. On the whole, your Metro is surprisingly rust free

[@TwinCam]

It is, even if the rear end is going to have to be braced for all the metal to come out. Far beyond my pay grade, but I know it's there.

[@Kim-Does-Things]

Wasn't this card red before or was that a different metro?

[@cliveprocter3698]

For an old Metro thats pretty pristine, its when everywhere has fist sized holes you need to worry.... Remove bits of lose underseal on inner wings, derust, reseal and get wings back on pronto. Rear prob needs new arches letting in and a few patches welding up holes, repainting and drowning in waxoyl. Fix the leaks and its good for another 30 years.

[@TwinCam]

You appear to have forgotten me mentioning the inner rear valance being made of cheese. That requires the entire rear structure of the car to be removed!

[@cliveprocter3698]

@@TwinCam theres about 6 bolts and couple brake pipe/suspension pipes and rear subframe is off

[@TwinCam]

Yes, and the subframe will be coming out to be rebuilt. But it’s rather unrelated to the rear structure of the shell needing to be removed.

[@-sargntclashroyaleandmore-491]

To think people who drove these cars back in the day could've been driving around with a gaping rust hole under their feet or worse. As far as your Metro goes, it's not bad at all.

[@Andy-sh9eq]

I wouldn't bet on the wings being off before, the sealer could have been missed at the factory, it depends on which shift it was made on, my friend used to work on the body line and they used to miss stuff because on nights they were either sleeping or playing poker, or if nobby was on nights he would bring in his portable tv and sleeping bag

[@TwinCam]

Quite possibly. It was Longbridge!

[@douglasbutcher7541]

I've owned a 1989 Austin Metro City (1st car) and a 1994 Rover Metro GTa SE. 2 of my biggest mistakes was selling them. If only I could go back in time.......

[@hhgttg69]

how many miles on Melvin and what welder are you buying?

[@TwinCam]

83,000, which means I've done 27,000 with him. Unfortunately, I won't be buying a welder. Peeling away the entire rear panel work and needing to brace the body shell to compensate is far beyond my paygrade.

[@jamescoe764]

Think you have caught it in time. Not too much rust...

[@zjproject5845]

How thick is the steel

[@Mariazellerbahn]

I don't like Metro's myself but I can see their appeal, especially as they are becoming rarer. Pleased to see that there isn't too much rot to sort. Being a white car ... any rust is a lot easier to spot. While the interior is out ... find out where that footwell water is coming from. Hopefully just a leaky windscreen rubber or it could be from the wiper spindles or heater.

[@TwinCam]

The car's being stripped to a bare shell, so we'll be doing everything!

[@johnsnowdon2939]

They ALL rust. I had three Metros of varying ages - my first car being an '83 MG Turbo, then a '91 1.1S and finally a 92/93 GTi 16v. Every one of them rusted around the rear arches - the issue is that they are two pressings around the arch (an outer panel which you can see, and an inner which you don't) and moisture gets between the two panels. Surprised it's not more extensive, tbh. That can be fixed if you are willing to invest the time - but do it properly and take back the surface on the front inner wings to bare metal to stop it spreading.

[@MGBetts1]

Not too bad at all, considering the age of the car. You may well have water leaks, which would be the cause of the water collecting under the front mats.

[@TwinCam]

Too right. I'm 95% sure it's the drivers door seal. I'll have to source one for once the restoration is complete.

[@MGBetts1]

@@TwinCam What you want to do is to get someone to turn the hose on it, while you sit inside and try to determine where the water is coming from.

[@pinkyn0se]

My old P reg 114 GTA was already worse than that back in 2002. Must have been made of recycled Baked Bean tins.

[@NitinKumar-ny7rk]

It is quite weird that Austin/MG Rover did not look at the rust issues in the Metro. You can blame the British weather for it, but for a company which was already functional decades before even the mini was launched, it seemed to be quite ignorant of them.

[@TwinCam]

There weren't any contemporary small cars - or even cars in general - that didn't rust rather badly.

[@donwright3427]

Good little cars but expensive when you borrow your mums and a friends dog eats the rear seatbelts. Good times ha ha

[@colrhodes377]

What's the plan with the mods?

[@TwinCam]

At the moment, individualised suspension, cut rods, front anti-roll bar, red band steering rack, close-ratio gearbox, and 1.4 16v engine with a set of 135 camshafts and ITBs.