“How To” #3, Setting Up the N Scale #4 Turnout From Kato.

[@Trains-With-Shane]

Thank you so much for posting this!

[@EagleCreekRailRoad]

No worries!

[@Marc_Miller]

Appreciate you so thoroughly showing how it works. Thank you.

[@wm973]

Of all the vids I've watched....... your the first one who explained it so everyone could understand it! Well done! I'm just a Noobs Noob here. Kato stuff ordered and looking forward to learning more. Thanks

[@olddogg60]

This answered that question for me. Thank you.

[@EagleCreekRailRoad]

No problem, glad you found it useful.

[@500vdc]

I was just going to do what you did to make a decision on a layout that will start out as DC, but hope to convert to DCC as I can convert locos. This was perfectly explained! Saved me a bunch of time! Thanks for posting!

[@EagleCreekRailRoad]

No worries.

[@dacuzzz]

hi Ben...very nice show & tell... pretty cool how those turnouts are engineered.. thanks for the video... vinny

[@rmrgruncorn8330]

An absolute banger of information to understand thank you sir ! ..

[@EagleCreekRailRoad]

Glad to help.👍🏻

[@super-etendard]

what i was looking for! thanks

[@Stephenm26]

This is a great explanation of how the kato #4 turnout works. I took mine out of the packaging and had no idea what it was talking about. Your vid solved the puzzle. One question - the turnout also comes with what looks like two plastic rail joiners. What are they for?

[@Haymarket47]

I think they might be insulated rail joiners that you place at the frog end to prevent shorts?

[@EagleCreekRailRoad]

Hi. Yes as Haymarket 47 has said, they're insulated joiners that don't pass track current through to the next section of track.

[@phucdatbich1990]

On my Kato Ho turnouts there are power routing screws but the frog is plastic and so unpowered. I'm a bit puzzled why they didn't use the N-type design ?

[@Rustyrailhead]

I am curious if you had any issues with points on the N scale not holding position with these switches. I have installed a single crossover and one of the points doesn't hold position when cars run through the switch. It results in derailments every time. these are new installed switches for my new layout. It seems that the spring action isn't strong enough to hold it position and the flanges grab it as they pass over.which then opens the rails so the trucks derail. Any thoughts.

[@TechBuild]

Try using the Kato #6 turnouts for that purpose, they have a simpler design and I have been using them for a year.

[@billblakeney5572]

Hi, I have had the same problem BUT, for me, it was only happening with one type of engine. Any engine with a free wheeling truck in the front like, a 2 / 8 steam engine. So I removed the front wheels, ( very simple one screw removed ) that solved the problem. The 2 free wheels in front would slide between the two rails and cause them to separate every so often. Maybe you have the same issue.

[@brianhuss9184]

Well done sir.

[@ratelmike8825]

Incredibly useful, i thought it involved isolation joiners....

[@EagleCreekRailRoad]

This is the great thing about unitrack, it really is bombproof. All the polarity switching etc is built into the turnout so no need to worry about insulating joiners and additional frog wiring etc, just fit & forget. Ben.