How to Add an Electrical Outlet to Existing Circuit

[@wendyspeaks5503]

Extremely grateful you took the time to make this video!

[@FortKnoxCo]

You’re very welcome!!

[@jessebrown9810]

Great work, thank you

[@FortKnoxCo]

Thank you 🤙🏼

[@JoDoe9]

Thank you for this!! This was exactly what i was looking for. Very good explanation of the process.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Your very welcome! Happy I could be of help

[@ALWAYSLOUDNEVERQUIET]

Great video. Very thorough.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Thank you I appreciate that. I tried to explain everything so someone could really do it themselves if they wanted to try

[@dariopppp]

Excellent! Thanks

[@FortKnoxCo]

Your very welcome

[@RyanHutson-y1t]

Thanks, this was extremely helpful!

[@FortKnoxCo]

Your very welcome

[@micahgivens8701]

Man thank you so much for this! Trying to hang a tv and this is exactly what I needed!

[@FortKnoxCo]

Nice! Yeah this method of adding and outlet or moving one up or down a wall is all the same. I’ve done this for tv installs many times.

[@blakebuchanan1420]

awesome video! Thanks for putting it up in addition to the one where you drill the hole in the quartz for the RO system faucet. I'm going to be doing all this on Sunday when my RO system arrives :-)

[@FortKnoxCo]

That’s awesome! I’m editing another video on the APEC RO system right now. How to install that system from start to finish. Doesn’t require any electrical hook up. I’ve done a lot of RO systems and it’s one of my favorites. Should have that video walk through up within the week

[@blakebuchanan1420]

@@FortKnoxCo nice! I just got the waterdrop G3P800. Hoping for clean results 😅

[@gradyrogers5081]

Such a well explained video thank you sir

[@FortKnoxCo]

Thank you I appreciate that

[@aroundptownil]

Great job. Well done !!!

[@FortKnoxCo]

Thank you!

[@torrey6537]

Great video, thanks for the tutorial. Don’t you need to clamp the cables where they enter / exit the box in order to comply with code?

[@FortKnoxCo]

Thank you! I appreciate it. Technically if you were doing new construction and having open permits on a build with electrical running they would be looking for all of that. They should be secured above or below the box between 6-10”. But it’s almost never done when doing renovations. You’d need to open the walls way up just to install that. The boxes themselves have the opening that pinch down and make it difficult to pull the wire backwards out of the box. There’s things in place that accomplish the same safety measures but in all honesty they are always necessary for safe function. And you’re usually only doing a short run to another outlet so there’s not much rush there so long as all of your connections are proper and secure.

[@MrDeepanbaba]

Great video and tutorial! Can the under sink outlet be an other GFCI ? Meaning GFCI to GFCI?

[@FortKnoxCo]

I believe you could but it would be very redundant. Not necessary to do all that and spend the money on the other GFCI outlet.

[@joshheineman4245]

Your videos are next level great! As much as I do a ton of DIY I would hire you in a heartbeat. What area do you do work in out of curiosity? I will check out more of your work, so very helpful and extremely thorough. Thanks!!!!!

[@FortKnoxCo]

I really appreciate that. Makes me feel good about to effort I put into filming and trying to share the knowledge. I usually just get so busy with getting the project done that I never film it. Just don’t have the time for it sometimes. But I try to do it more and then editing and posting. I’m in Las Vegas. Almost finished with this “casita” I’m building. Basically a 2,000sqft home. I’m editing a video about running electrical for CO/Smoke detectors and wiring as we speak. Just did the job this morning

[@harsha999]

Thanks for the video. I have a similar outlet like you have under the sink(closer to the cabinet door) for the garbage disposal, but it has a switch right above it. Can I use an outlet extender with 2 switches and use one thats always on for the RO and the other for garbage disposal?

[@FortKnoxCo]

If you have a power source or plug that has the constant power then you’re good with plugging in the RO. It doesn’t draw much power.

[@harsha999]

I have an outlet just like you showed at 0:42 that connects to the garbage disposal but also has a switch on top. Whenever I need to use garbage disposal, I need to bend down and turn it on. I am thinking to add an outlet extender with 2 separate switches and connect the RO to one of them thats always on. The other switch for garbage disposal will be turned on and off as needed. Is that ok from a safety pov?

[@FortKnoxCo]

@ adding an outlet to use for the RO is fine. Just like adding any other outlet to and existing. You just need to feed that new outlet with a constant power. As far as the switch for the garbage disposal I just did a video showing how to install a. Push button on the sink for the garbage disposal. Might be a good option for you as well.

[@jenny703]

Thank you!

[@FortKnoxCo]

Your welcome 🤙🏼

[@patberg14]

If you didn't have that dedicated outlet for the disposal, would this plug be able to handle plugging the disposal into it (even though it is running as part of a string of GFCI's)? I need to add an outlet below our sink for a garbage disposal, and I'm trying to decide if I can just add a new box from one of the ones in the run of kitchen GFCI's above the counter and use that without tripping the rest of the line of plugs when it's used. Thanks! Great video.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Yes, any outlet can handle a garbage disposal. The only reason the dedicated outlet matters is mainly because they run a switch on that power source to the plug. So you just have to make sure that if you want a constant power source that you’re not jumping off of one that has a switch on it. If you’re able to Anche an outlet off of a original outlet you can wire in a switch to that hot side and make one or both of those plugs turned on by a switch which then can run your garbage disposal. Or if you want to run one of those fancy push button, air activated, garbage disposal switches you can do that too. They still recommend putting that power source on a switch so that you can turn that power on and off For sure. But to answer your question in short yes, any outlet should be able to handle the garbage disposal. Assuming it’s a 20 amp. Most outlets nowadays have a 20 amp circuit /breaker. All of our wall outlets are 20 amp and our ceiling lights are 15 amp.

[@thejaymikingexperience1707]

Great video!

[@FortKnoxCo]

Thank you! I appreciate that.

[@onebecaley]

I am trying to install a water heater under my bathroom sink because I live on the 5th floor this is what my warranty folks are telling me why I don’t have hot water only after 9 minutes running the water to get lukewarm water. Would it matter how much the water heater voltage is? Thank you 🙏 for your help.

[@FortKnoxCo]

If the water is set up for a regular outlet , 110-120 volt/ usually a regular looking 3 prong plug, then it shouldn’t matter. It would matter more if the circuit that the plug is on it has a 20 Amp breaker. If the breaker get overloaded then it will pop and you’ll need to upgrade the breaker. But if it’s a 110-120v unit then it shouldn’t be a problem

[@spencerboyle6113]

Damn, you know your shit. I had to pause with the branching. Are you an electrician? lol

[@FortKnoxCo]

Much appreciated 🤙🏼

[@ABobsLife]

Nice video. I have a similar issue. But I need to run mine from a switch ( That power's the insinkerator) . I just installed an RO Filter system. Any idea's? Thanks in advance.

[@FortKnoxCo]

On that switch or wall switch there is power supplying that switch. The black wire coming from the house. From that you could branch or “pigtail” to a new outlet. Obviously you can split off the white wires as well to run to the new outlet. Main thing is identifying the black wire that is supplying the power to the switch and branching off that.

[@ABobsLife]

@@FortKnoxCo I took the plate off the switch. There are 2 black wires feeding that switch. I just checked. Both outlets are switched. .

[@FortKnoxCo]

@@ABobsLife your wall switch itself will be fed with a constant black hot wire. And on the other side of it will be the black that it either feeds or disconnects. So from the physical switch itself you’ll pull off of that black wire. It should have constant power.

[@miasma5733]

hey, how about when the existing outlet is on the left corner between 2 or more studs on drywall?

[@FortKnoxCo]

Like you want to move an outlet down and over a stud or two? That will require some drywall work most likely. Depending on where you want the new outlet you’ll need to just across the studs. Drilling a hole through the center of the stud and that requires a small hole in the drywall to access usually. It can be done and is very common, but requires a couple extra steps

[@ronmorgan2926]

I thought you are supposed to use the white wire. Isn't the yellow for 20 amp?

[@FortKnoxCo]

White is usually for 15amp. These wall outlets are all 20 amp. So most outlets, at least where we are located, are 20 amp and all ran with yellow

[@surferdude642]

I'm assuming the box with the switch and GFCI receptacle is on a 20 amp circuit with 12 gauge wire. Hard to tell in the picture. The receptacles here are 15 amp, not 20. That's okay, 15 amp duplex receptacles are allowed on a 20 amp circuit. It's totally fine.

[@grahamemerton7038]

Pastic back box socket onto a combustible mounting and in the location of water with no IP rating...🤔 wouldn't get away with that under UK Regs.

[@FortKnoxCo]

Pretty much everything I’ve seen over here in the midwest of the US is all plastics type boxes. It’s not very common to have metal or non-conductive boxes used in a lot of construction