How to adjust Ford Model A mechanical brakes.

[@christophercorso3194]

The more videos you make the more I'm forced to watch. This channel is great.

[@danteboone8796]

I guess I'm kind of randomly asking but does anyone know of a good website to stream newly released series online?

[@yusufnash13]

@Dante Boone Ehh I'd suggest Flixportal. Just google after it=) -yusuf

[@danteboone8796]

@Yusuf Nash thank you, I signed up and it seems to work :) Appreciate it!

[@yusufnash13]

@Dante Boone Happy to help :D

[@gzulinski5990]

This process is different than Les Andrews were you adjust rears to grab first then the fronts or i’am I wrong.

[@regguy07]

I have a 1930 Model A Fordor that I drive on a regular basis. About 2 years ago I completely rebuilt the front suspension and replaced the brakes on all four wheels. I also purchased a Brake Buddy at the same time but frankly as a former certified auto tech the procedure just didn't make any sense to me so I never used it. I tried to apply my experience with modern drum brakes and what I thought was common sense on the Model A mechanical brake system but the result was always less than stellar. Over the last 2 years I have tried adjusting the brakes multiple times but low brake pedal and weak uneven braking is what I would end up with every time. I'm a subscriber and your video on brake adjustment has been nagging me ever since you posted it. Today I finally decided to swallow my pride and adjust the brakes the Model A way using the Brake Buddy and follow along with each step of your video. My wife did a fantastic job as my helper too. I just took it out for a test drive and much to my astonishment the "magic" must have happened because the brakes work as you would expect them too. It stops evenly and with confidence. Thanks for the help and for making all the informative and educational Model A videos.

[@ModelA]

Awesome!! Thanks John

[@DeLorean4]

I love the thumbnail on this video. It's like I've gone to heaven, God's true form is a Ford Model A, and you're blessing me with a wrench to let me know I've been a good car enthusiast.

[@ModelA]

Ha ha!! Hey, if God were a Model A, you and I would be SET!

[@vintagelife9788]

Thank you very much for that information I’m 35 years old and just got a Model A I have learned a lot and still learning 😁

[@ModelA]

Welcome!!

[@jamesallard476]

Thank you very much for your videos , I just got my first Model A. I'm almost 70, my girl surprised me for Christmas

[@ModelA]

That is awesome! That girl is a keeper. Thank you James.

[@rynetakeuchi4382]

Thanks Paul! I just got my 34 Ford Tudor and the brakes were NOT adjusted correctly. I watched your video, made a brake adjustment tool and went to work. I didn’t have a person to help me so I just took it slow and enjoyed every moment. Now my brakes work great!! As we say in Hawaii, Mahalo!!!

[@ModelA]

Mahalo!!

[@Mr19thcenturyman]

Bought a Coupe back in April 2021. Had been sitting at the base of Aspen mountain in Minturn Colorado for the last 20 years.

[@ModelA]

Nice work!!

[@Carstuff111]

I love videos like this. I love seeing how far things really have come over the decades.

[@6151h]

You’re a terrific shady side mechanic and a joy to watch 😎 keep up with your content. Gary Gerstenfield

[@ModelA]

Thanks Gary!

[@markcarter5491]

Just purchased my first Model A. This video was a must, Thanks

[@ModelA]

Glad it was helpful!

[@owenc96]

Your videos have come such a long way in three years!! Great back then but even better today. I'd love to see an updated version of this video in your current style. Keep up the great work.

[@ModelA]

Ha ha! This was 4 years ago, almost to the day. Still using the same iPhone to record videos today.

[@michaelreynolds1904]

Very informative for a new A owner!

[@discerningmind]

Thanks Paul. I've never even seen the rods and adjusters before so this was very interesting. Thanks!

[@ModelA]

Glad to help

[@Hopeless_and_Forlorn]

I have found this video to be very enlightening. I will henceforth confine my search for an acceptable Model A to include only those with hydraulic brakes already installed and working perfectly.

[@ModelA]

That's one way to look at it.

[@kellycassutt3165]

Once I knew what to look for (by watching this video), I discovered the driver's side front and rear brake rods were TOO LONG. A hacksaw and thread cutter fixed the problem! Now I stop where I want. I'm within a half turn on the driver's side front brake from breaking straight. Thank you!

[@ModelA]

Awesome! Good work Kelly!

[@danlynch5424]

Good Job!! Your videos are Great. I have owned Model As for over 60 years and I am still crazy about them.

[@ModelA]

Right on! Thank you Dan

[@KeepOnRvn]

We have loved Model A Fords for nearly 40 years when we purchased our first, an early 1930 Town Sedan. For many years we had a 1929 Coupe and a 1929 Pickup that were our daily drivers. We just adopted a 1928 Phaeton 35-A that has been owned by various members of our local club. We plan to drive the Phaeton as often as possible for enjoyment, though probably not daily. A few modifications have been made along the way some of which we plan to take back to original. One of those modifications is an hydraulic brake conversion, which seems to work well enough. But as traditionalists we have always had original type mechanical brakes which always worked well with only 1 single exception when a clevis pin failed. Thankfully no harm was done and the fix was simple. Having never done a conversion in either direction we are doing some research in anticipation of putting an original brake system back on the Phaeton. When I ran across this video I started wondering...which is always dangerous I suppose. How many Model A owners have mechanical versus hydraulic brakes on their cars? Whichever system you have, would you prefer the other? Why? We are in the process of sourcing the original parts needed for this project so if anyone has any suggestions about where to look, we would love to hear them. Many thanks and happy travels, GG

[@ronzetterberg8486]

Paul, thanks for the great bideo series. Mine-1929 Roadster mostly stock but has a T5 transmission conversion performed by the DPO. The cross bar had been moved back about 8 inches to clear the larger transmission and had several other questionable modifications affecting the brake system including using shorter rear rods and longer front rods. Anyway, I found a different kit manufacturer and was able to restore the location of cross bar. Your video really helped me get the brakes working properly. RonZ

[@ModelA]

Excellent!

[@lgude]

You said in another video, Paul, that Model A brakes work just fine when adjusted properly and that is my recollection from the 50s the last time I drove a Model A. But I did adjust these rod actuated brakes on a later 30s car - forget the exact make and model - and it was just like this lengthy a procedure. I improved the brakes but was not exactly happy at the results. So I have appreciated hydraulic brakes ever since, But did not know that once you got get them equalised you can just adjust them equally by a click no not have to rinse ands repeat. Really clear video.

[@ModelA]

Thanks! Yes, that is true.

[@DWS1435]

Great informative video on how to adjust the brakes.

[@ModelA]

Glad it was helpful!

[@rileydunevent7831]

I have been doing this since I was 12 in my grandpa’s shop. The worst one I ever did was this last summer when we swapped a rear end out to add emergency breaks because no mater what we did it just kept dragging. End up having to take the whole drum off to find out the brakes for some reason where not adjusting. What was supposed to be a 1 day job took 3 days.

[@ktimco]

thanks for this thorough video on brake adjusting.

[@MauricioRavanelli]

Es un video EXCELENTE. Muchas gracias Paul por enseñarnos la mecá ica del Ford A. Tus videos son una adicción!!!!!!

[@ModelA]

Gracias, amigo!

[@Mccabone]

Paul you and I are becoming close friends! My girlfriend thinks we have something special going on and her suspicions led her to my search engine on about everything Model A!!! Lol... our common mistress!

[@ModelA]

Excellent!! I'm almost out of RC Cola. Grab some on your way over please.

[@andy41417]

No lift? Try skid test on dirt road allows you to read heavier skid on rear wheels and equal on left and right side. Adjust accordingly and check for drag. Works because my state does brake stop test and readout shows application. 40 year Model A owner showed me how. I assume the system is not worn out , set up correctly and free of slop.

[@deniseseawell2090]

Great video, I've watched it a few times, first time to adjust then just cuz model As look so good. Because I'm wanting to drive my model A every day and am wanting ideas about this possibility was wondering what is your belief about using original brakes? This is being asked because after adjusting the brakes they work great but I still worry about what has not happened yet, some young driver pulling out right in front of me causing me to panic stop. My worry is the brakes will not stop the car quick enough. Thanks for all wonderful videos Paul.

[@ModelA]

I have original style brakes on all of mine, and they lock up in a panic perfectly. Once the wheels are locked, how much "more" braking is there?

[@TuanBasikal]

The original brake system in proper condition -- that's the important part, many of them are not -- is as good as anything you could have. If you can lock the wheels, the critical element then is the size and shape of the tire contact patch and its friction with the road. Hydraulic brakes offer one advantage, of being self-equalizing and self-adjusting. Disk brakes are resistant to fade, which matters more in cars with automatic transmissions and thus no engine braking ability, which is why they became common since about 1970. Early (1920s) hydraulic brake systems could be pretty squirrely. It's easy to see why mechanical brakes remained in use through the 1930s. Plus, mechanical brakes don't fail from lack of use like hydraulics sometimes do. You can take the Model A out of the barn after 20 years and the brakes still work. I much prefer working on them -- I detest the smell and feel of hydraulic fluid.

[@magoo262]

What were you doing in the middle of the car at 7:49-8:24?

[@garyruxton5226]

Your videos are great. Very clear. I'm hooked and I don't even own one (wish I did though. Anyone have an extra they don't need anymore to give away.😁)

[@kengriffin3495]

I've followed your instructions to the "T" and my rear wheels do not spin freely. I've disconnected the parking brake rods without results. My plan is to proceed following your instructions overlooking the issue of no rear wheel free spin. They will rotate but not spin freely as the front wheels do. I'm going to assume it is storage related and not take the rear drums off to take a look at the brakes and how they fit to the drums. I'm just going to do each procedure as your video instructs. When I put my 29 Roadster away it was running and stopping fine. I had previously installed cast iron drums and new woven brake shoes making certain the fit of the shoes was correct to the drums and that the brakes were centered using my brake centering tool. I have done the brake adjustment several years ago after replacing the drums and shoes and don't recall a problem spinning the rear wheels so they spun freely as the fronts do. My sense is that because I left the emergency brake on, there is an issue I expect will resolve itself when I get it out on the road this year and drive it. I don't know why I forgot to release the parking brake for storage. I released it on my 31 Cabriolet but I have driven the 31 once recently and everything works like it was new so I'm not planning to adjust the brakes on the 31 any time soon.

[@jackjohnson6339]

Just wondering. What is the point of position 1 and 2? Wouldn't you get to the same adjustment spot on the brake rod by just starting at position 3 and then check for complete lock up at full brake pressure at position 4? Maybe I'm missing something?

[@ModelARickLasCruces]

Suggestion: the special brake adjustment tool is far better than using a 7/16" open end wrench, or heaven forbid a crescent wrench. But an even better choice is a 7/16" 8-point 1/2" drive socket and breaker bar, which will give you much better leverage. As an alternative, slip a 15" piece of pipe over the special adjustment tool. Another great video!.

[@ModelA]

Excellent advice. Thank you, Rick!

[@tjcanno]

Thanks for another great video, Paul. If I understood what you said correctly, you say that Notch #1 on the adjusting board should be 2 inches down from the Reference Line starting point, and then the next two notches are 1/2 inch further steps down. The Ford Service Bulletins say that the first notch should be 1 inch down, followed by two more 1/2 inch steps. I have always used the step dimensions in the Service Bulletins (which Les Andrews also uses). Do you think it matters what you use for that first notch position?

[@ModelA]

It isn't critical. I just don't like dragging brakes.

[@ModelA]

After responding to your question, only then did I look up and realize who I was answering. It's such an honor to correspond with you, Jim!

[@Dreadfish_1]

Hi Chris, I have a 1930 ford that I just bought and the parking/emergency brake will no stay engaged (no clicking). Would you mind doing a short video or know of a video showing how to repair this issue?

[@ModelA]

The emergency brake is a simple mechanism. Take the two bolts off that hold it to the transmission and take the whole assembly out and put it on the bench. Most likely, the spring on top of the lever that pushes the button up is broke or missing.

[@keithmueller9860]

How much maintenance do A model brakes require? Understand type/amount of use is important, but how often can one expect to have to do the amount of adjustment shown in video, ie for example how many miles? At 85 am not sure l want to get involved if this is periodic maintenance. Thanks for help in inderstanding what l could be getting into.

[@ModelA]

Set em once and forget. Maybe 20,000 miles or more on a set of brakes if you manage your engine braking well. This is a one time setup that most have never done.

[@Gord19]

Many thanks learning lots from you Greetings from Canada.

[@carlwicks9329]

You need to be old like me to enjoy this! When parked around a crowd of girls I put out a round weight on a leather strap at the curb just like the horse carts did. A constable saw or was told that old car has no parking brake! Got an on the spot a brake test slammed them on a hard as I could! Yes now 2 constables checking my brakes one in car 1 on sidewalk marking distance "great you passed but you have to do the same twice with parking brake & regular MECHANICAL BRAKES"! After the 2nd or third test I took the long wrench out adjusted brakes constable said can not do that YOU FAILED removed my plates & said GET IT TOWED. A good friend mechanic tow truck driver went to police station & explained rod brakes need to be adjusted after repeated panic stops as the rods stretch! Got my plates back thanks to my friend! Boy could I have used a cell phone those 50 years ago! Sold this lovely car 40 or 50 years ago but still have the wrench!

[@1699bridgetown]

Really great instructional video. Great job guys!

[@VivianNichols-j5x]

when I was a teenager I was driving a '37 ford and found a ford manual that said to apply the brakes you should do it with a quick sort of jab and then just hold a little pressure. I'm not saying to be abusive just apply quick bit of pressure and hold it. it worked for me did not half to try to bend the steering wheel any more

[@vincerodgers640]

Great videos Paul! Could you please give the dimensions of the wooden brake adjustment tool (or pattern) so I can make one. Or where I can purchase if that’s a better idea. Thanks in advance, Vince

[@ModelA]

Hi Vince! I am sorry I didn't detail the tool better in the video. All the Model A parts suppliers sell them. I copied mine from a friend who had one he bought from Bert's Model A center.

[@vincerodgers640]

@@ModelA Hi Paul, Bert's doesn't have it but I did find one @ MAC's. Thanks again for all you videos, top quality.

[@Zephyrmec]

Very similar to adjusting the cable operated brakes on my Lincoln Zephyr, except with the A you are balancing and adjusting a push, with cables, it’s equalizing and adjusting a pull. I found that once you have them correct, they stay pretty close and only need the occasional check. “All steel, foot to wheel”

[@glencrs]

"BRAKES - HIGHLY OVER RATED" That was my philosophy all the way through High School and college. Down shifting my Model A worked pretty good. Of course, in my hometown of less than a 1,000, everyone knew that the "Black A" was to be avoided like the plague. We would conduct races down "Main" to see who could go the slowest. That was in the mid-60s to the mid-70s. Still got the '29 coupe with rumble seat.

[@leahbarnacle6138]

Hi Paul I have enjoyed your videos. Very well done. I did try your brake adjustment method on my 29 pickup and my friends 29 pickup and was not happy. The brake adjustment method is different than I have used for years, with success, is Les's brake adjustment method found on 2-2 of his manual. You do not mention anything about the front lever being 15 degrees forward. As you know once the lever goes past 90 degrees backward all the leverage is gone. I would like to understand your method Thanks Steve B

[@ModelA]

Use what works for you, always.

[@miguelluna5427]

Great video. Thanks for sharing 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼💯💯. Quick question. I just found a 1929 Model A pick up roadster but the frame is completely disassembled. Do you know of any book, website or somewhere I can find a diagram of of all the frame parts? Any information would help. Thank you.

[@ModelARickLasCruces]

Get a copy of Les Andrews' Model A Mechanics Handbook. Lots of great and detailed information.

[@chrisborey1734]

Thank You for another helpful and great video.

[@Doc_Cussewago]

Hey Paul question: The brake adjustment gauge, for the notches between steps 1,2, 3 etc what is the measurement? 1 inch?

[@ModelA]

1/2 inch between steps

[@Leoneidas]

What an entertaining and informative video- thank you! I will certainly go through this procedure. Quick question- how long does the original brake shoe material last? I have some that do not have many miles, but are approaching forty years old. Maybe they are fine?

[@ModelA]

I have never done a second brake job on a Model A, so the brakes last a LONG time!

[@martychin9496]

Excellent video, very clear and helpful, Thank you

[@bobtheraptorjoe577]

Vintage Mammal! I like your Brake Adjustment Tools. I hope you are doing well. Have a great 4th of July!!

[@ModelA]

My favorite Raptor!!! Thank you so much! Thank you, and a very happy Independence day to you and Joe.

[@Historiasobreruedas]

Hello, I have a question. At the end you say that when the brake rods are all adjusted and you just need to make a "click" on the break shoe adjuster. In which direction should I rotate it? Clockwise or counterclockwise? Thank you very much in advance.

[@ModelA]

Clockwise to add more brake pedal. Good question!

[@Historiasobreruedas]

@@ModelA thank you very much! I own a ford model "C" from 1935 and they are quite similar to the model "A" but unfortunately not many around the internet to get information. Many thanks!

[@ModelA]

Nice! If you ever do a video on it, please let me know and I can link to your video.

[@Historiasobreruedas]

@@ModelA i Will definitely do!! I'm trying to fix paperwork, now I'm doing gaskets and hopefully next week I will put a video of it

[@denverhoward8029]

My Model A is equipped with electronic ignition from First Street Ignition, Tulsa, Oklahoma. I recently had to reach the head gasket. Upon reassembly I noticed the distributor rotor was NOT pointing at the #1 plug. The Nu-Rex tool does not fit the F.S. distributor. How do I correct this situation and put the rotor in the correct position?

[@denverhoward8029]

Had to "replace" the head gasket, not "reach"

[@michaeleisenbise4278]

Another great video. Paul, my hobby is helping others with their model A electrical and mechanical issues. Often refer people to your videos, as I am doing now. Am having someone watch this video before I help him some more with his brakes in a few minutes. This is the second time I have watched it and picked up on the fact that you have an adjustable board you use as the wood tool to hold the brake pedal in place. Like the fact yours is adjustable. Will be helping people adjust their brakes in the future. Can you tell the maximum and minimum overall length of your brake tool?

[@ModelA]

Thanks Michael! there is 4 inches total between 0 and 4 in 1-inch increments. I really wish it was made of aluminum or something similar though. It gets chewed up after about 8 cars worth and I have to make another.

[@dwest4297]

Thank you for your video on brake adjustments. I noticed that a couple of times you had the brake rods disconnected at the cross shaft. Throughout the video most of the adjustments you were made where at the brakes; however, are they adjustment made at the cross shaft as well? Thank you.

[@dwest4297]

Whoops, I just watch your video again and realized that the back brakes are adjusted at the cross rod. My bad.

[@ModelA]

Yep! Good catch.

[@MoparArtbyautomolove]

Great video! Thank you for answering all of my potential questions - in advance!

[@ModelA]

Happy to help!

[@StefanSR6346]

Hi Paul, thank you again for this very instructive video! I’m from Germany and maybe I got the inches wrong but on the drawing in Les Andrews book that shows the brake pedal adjusting board there is only 1 inch from the reference line (pedal untouched) to the first notch. In the video I believe I hear you say that notch number one means that the pedal is depressed by 2 inches. Could you please clarify? Thank you very much in advance.

[@ModelA]

There are many designs for pedal board tool dimensions. I make mine so that position zero is at pedal resting position. A few (like 3) inches from that is position 1. Every position from there is 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch apart, depending on the braking system. Since this had cast iron drums, I used 1/2 inch spacing. See? I can make anything complicated. End result is- You want all 4 brakes to lock at the same time.

[@StefanSR6346]

@@ModelA Thank you very much for your quick response. I can absolutely live with that!

[@chrisreid7248]

Do you have the dimensions for the wedge board how wide etc

[@HowardAllgood]

yes need makeup of wedge board

[@Rslawrence25]

What is the significance of taking off the brake rods? Take any potential pressure of the brake Actuator?

[@redhotrodder12]

Hi Paul! I'm working on adjusting the brakes on my '29 today so I just re-watched this. In Les Andrews' book he calls for tighter brakes (more braking) on the rear wheels than the front. However, as I understand it you adjust all the wheels so that braking is about equal between front and back. I feel much more inclined to go with your method, but I'm very curious to know your thoughts/philosophy regarding equalized braking on all four wheels versus more (or less) braking between front and back. In other words, why do you do it your way? Thank you! Also, thank you so much for doing this channel.

[@ModelA]

I set mine like they did at the factory for even braking all around because when I stomp on the brakes in an emergency, I want all 4 wheels to skid! Also, no matter how you set the brakes for whatever amount of unequal braking, as they wear, you eventually end up with equalized braking anyway as the brakes set tighter will wear faster than the looser ones. People come up with all sorts of weird ideas for setting mechanical brakes, and then gripe that mechanical brakes suck. Follow the guys who say mechanical brakes work great and do it the way they do. Equalized braking.

[@redhotrodder12]

Thanks for the reply! I agree with your line of thinking. Also that is an excellent point about the brakes eventually equalizing between front and rear. Thanks again! :)

[@KK-TO]

Hi Paul, You have, in my recollection, made great points with regards to factory protocol (this brake video and the spark advance being past TDC). Are these points all from the same reference book you mentioned in the spark advance video? Just curious.

[@KK-TO]

I had the same conflict...two well respected guru’s of Model A culture with different advice. I went with Paul’s method and the car stops well (a local club member put it through the paces). A little judgement is needed with out of round drums and dragging shoes, but otherwise it just needs lots of patience. Only additional hintsI would give is hit the adjusters and lock nuts with penetrating oil a day before and loosen the lock nuts before taking out the pins. And the final thing I noticed (and it may be particular to the car) was that the front wheels are easier to judge relative to the rear wheels as the rear wheels have the drag of the differential!

[@mikemares1018]

Hi Paul, Where can I buy a brake adjustment tool like the one you're using in this video?

[@ModelA]

Bert's Model A Center and others carry them

[@mikemares1018]

@@ModelA Thanks Paul. Love watching your show and I've learned plenty. Keep up the good work.

[@ModelA]

Thank you!

[@CCWP0251]

Thank you so much for this video! Our 1930 coupe has never stopped well. You have to apply nearly full body weight to slow the car down any at all. I'll be following these steps thoroughly. I already have a "adjustment tool" and "wooden adjustment tool" handy. I have adjusted them once before, and they worked fine for a mile or so then backed off to not working again. What could cause this? Thanks again!

[@ModelA]

Time to pull the brake assemblies apart. Possible gunk in the adjusters or really bad brake shoes. I've seen really old woven brake shoes on a barn find that looked good, but as soon as they were used a few times, they literally fell apart.

[@menotyou9406]

Hi Paul I’ve been watching your channel through the pandemic. Thanks for the very use videos. My dad purchased a 31 A. He never got to drive it. I’ve taken it over and been doing some puttering on it. It is running fabulous now. But the brake lights aren’t working. I’ve replaced the switch made sure the lamps are good I’ve checked for a loose or broken ground. (The brake lights have not worked when he bought it) I’m tempted to take a peak inside the light switch body and see what’s going on in there. If you could offer some advice it would be much appreciated.

[@ModelA]

Start at the brake switch. Use a volt meter. With brakes applied, you should have 6 volts on both screws. if 6 volts on only one, then bad switch. 6 volts on both, bad bulb or wore between switch and lights. If no 6 volts, then check the wire and contacts in the light switch.

[@menotyou9406]

@@ModelA thank you, i have heard that the replacement switches are not reliable.

[@scortia22]

Your the man. What state are u in. Thanks Paul. I hope i can find a model A as nice as yours. Thanks for the video.

[@ModelA]

California. Thank you!

[@scortia22]

@@ModelA your welcome. In do live a half a mile from MARC model A restoration club.

[@scortia22]

But being in michigan a little ways away. Lol.

[@jeffreygreen9843]

Hello Paul, where did you get or did you make the wood brake adjuster? Love your videos and wish good health.

[@ModelA]

I made it.

[@brookside5045]

Great video 👍👍

[@Okie-Tom]

Very nice and in depth instructions! Thank you! Just subscribed too!

[@ModelA]

Awesome, thank you!

[@harold.degand]

Very helpful video. Thanks !

[@tjbristle]

Great tutorial. Well done. 🙂

[@ModelA]

Thank you!

[@TuanBasikal]

Are those front spring shackles in backwards? I'm used to seeing the grease fittings toward the front.

[@ModelA]

Good eye!

[@backo62]

Thanks for such a great instruction video.!!!!

[@ModelA]

Glad it was helpful!

[@JDvintagemi]

I don't have a any parking brake right now. Should I go through the procedure of adjusting the brakes and then adjusting the parking brake? Just got the vehicle haven't even had a chance to get under it yet. I just like to have some direction before I get going. Also, is there a alternate tool for the brake adjuster? Or is that a must have? Could you post the measurements of the board?

[@ModelA]

Yes, Jeremy. Do as suggested. You can use an adjustable (cresent) wrench on the brake adjusters if needed.

[@JDvintagemi]

@@ModelA well I went ahead and ordered the tool. I figured it's a good thing to have. And when I got less Andrew's book, it looks like that board measurement is in there. So I have that as well. Thank you again!

[@ModelA]

@@JDvintagemi Excellent! You're going to be all set! Please report back and let us all know how you do.

[@Michael_Scott_Howard]

OUTSTANDING VIDEO 📹 THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME

[@ModelA]

My pleasure. Thank you!

[@garyfurlong9487]

Thanks for showing

[@Lolo-mx4sc]

Not to criticize but, no mention was made of the cross shaft lever being at 12 o'clock position or the two front rod levers being at 15 degrees before any adjustments at the brakes are done. An oversight or not necessary? Please reply gently...

[@ModelA]

This video is strictly on how to adjust properly. There will be a video about how to rebuild the Model A braking system where I will cover things like that. Thank you!

[@Lolo-mx4sc]

Thanks for your reply. My point is that without the cross shaft being at proper position AND the front levers at 15 degrees forward which are set by pins (with pills/shims) inside the king pins simply adjusting the brake rods and brake shoes is for naught. Correct?

[@kencoleman8389]

@@ModelA Newbys do not know to turn drums and arch shoes. Might have been mentioned .

[@robertstuhr5436]

A question on adjusting the rear brakes. All brakes on all 4 wheels have been completely rebuilt. I had no problem adjusting the fronts but the rears still have some drag even with the adjusters all the way out. Without being able to spin the rear wheels freely how would you suggest that I accurately adjust these?

[@ModelA]

Usual cause of that- The shoes need to be arced to the drums.

[@VintageLifeCars]

Is it me or is the adjustment of the bottom shoe centering pins not mentioned?

[@ricardovelchani2530]

Parabéns elogiável Professor!

[@ModelA]

Gracias!

[@sreethampan]

Thank you for the information

[@larrystout606]

Looking forward to get my 28 Tudor on it's first drive soon and since I watched this video I am sure it won't break down now...

[@ModelA]

Please let us know how it went!

[@bitterclinger5876]

Man, I could have used that lift on my Model B pickup 50 years ago. Instead we settled for the "half day and long dirt road" method!

[@brucethede4605]

Dementions of the notches in the wood gauge you made?

[@ModelA]

Nothing specific. Literally, just cut some notches about 1/2 inch apart. I just eyeballed it.

[@JFRJesse]

We need some new VV content!

[@ModelA]

Hey Jesse!! I have some more VV coming soon. Thank you SO much!

[@JFRJesse]

@@ModelA Rock on buddy!

[@gekorec]

How often is adjustment required?

[@ModelA]

Right after replacing something in the braking system (brake shoe linings in this case), do a full asjustment as you see here. Then, after that, whenever the pedal starts to get low, just give each brake asjuster one click. About after 5,000 to 10,000 miles.

[@bugaljackson494]

Would this work for other cars of the era with mechanical brakes?

[@ModelA]

Absolutely!

[@MrJp318]

Where do I go for a refund if my model A breaks down on my next trip? Nice video

[@ModelA]

The kharma refund department.

[@SergLa]

Теперь я знаю, как настроить тормоза на Форде модель А. Жаль, что у меня нет Форда. Now I know how to adjust the brakes on a Ford model A. I Wish I had a Ford.

[@WilberNStella]

Why not skip steps 1 & 2 on adjusting brakes? You changed settings of the first 2 adjustments

[@FirstNameLastName-cj1nc]

Baseline to start from. And that's just the way Henry said to do it.

[@genelambert3537]

My Dad claimed he adjusted the Model A brakes by stopping hard and skidding on a dirt road, and adjusting the brakes so they skidded equally

[@brandtmagolon454]

What happens if you cant adjust the clevises in anymore i have the front passenger side when i apply the brakes on my furthest position its hard to turn but not locked and the driver side front is impossible to turn

[@ModelA]

Might have to add a spacer in the actuator pin. But you have to remove the backing plate to do it.

[@brandtmagolon454]

@@ModelA I'll do some more investigating thank you!

[@56silvershine]

Where can I find the dimensions for the brake adjuster gauge?

[@ModelA]

The notches are all 1/2 inch apart.

[@dowen1511]

I drove a 34 Chevy as a daily for a lot of years and never went through all of that . lol.

[@mafcawebmaster4237]

On the video, you overlaid the step-by-step instructions. Kind of hard to read though. Are those written down somewhere so that I could print them out?

[@ModelA]

I don't. But, I could transcribe them and put them in the video description if you like.

[@mafcawebmaster4237]

@@ModelA I think it would be helpful as a step-by-step checklist to use after viewing the video and actually performing the step on the vehicle :)

[@ModelA]

OK. I'll get on it.

[@mafcawebmaster4237]

@@ModelA Thanks so much!

[@ModelARickLasCruces]

@@ModelA Hi Paul, did you ever get a chance to transcribe the instructions? Someone just asked ME if I had them :)

[@Royvazquez]

where are you from?

[@PhillipDavis-m6i]

What's the details on the brake pedal tool?

[@ModelA]

No details. All the model A parts vendors sell them. I make mine from pine wood with 1/2" steps.

[@garycel]

The yellow Service Bulletin book instructs people to NOT adjust brakes by adjusting brake rods.

[@ModelA]

In 1930, when the Service Bulletin on that was published, that was true. In 2024, it is not true. 2 thousandths of an inch difference in your repro or rebuilt brake shoe or drums means one turn of the clevis on the brake rod to equalize that. Don't listen to the web forums, they're wrong.

[@TuanBasikal]

These instructions assume that the internals of the brake system have been brought up to proper condition. Many of these cars stop poorly because they need a thorough brake rebuild.

[@ModelA]

Yes

[@georgemckenzie181]

My irate car was 1928 Wilkes no front breaks and poor back breaks

[@georgemckenzie181]

Willies

[@bn2cool507]

I sure wish you lived near Boise Idaho

[@ModelA]

Is Idaho more free than Commiefornia?

[@GaryGohlke-ng7uf]

Early 28 single rod for brake and emergency.

[@Royvazquez]

me gustaria restaurar mi Tudor 1093

[@juanasanelli6831]

Primer paso Debes desmontar todas las ruedas tambores ,zapatas limpiarcon Thinner, limpiar sus reguladores ,engrasar movimientos y fijarse que las levas no este marcaday las rueditas giren libres .Paso 6 B ,una vez ajustados los frenos usar una palanca de madera de un metro y medio con una ayudante que pise fuerte el pedal hacer una prueba de torque por cada rueda Ajustados los frenos y todo a veces sucede que una rueda frena menos y la forma segura es usando la palanca de madera.y probar cada rueda a ver como frena . Yo tenia un tio viejo Pedro, que tenia un Modelo A del 29 y cada 2 semanas segun anduviera repetia el ritual de los frenos del Ford. Una tarde me hallo decidido y le adapte frenos hidraulicos y se terminaron los rituales de freno del Ford y el me frena poco Lo mismo paso con el Fordoor 36 de Papa .Termino con frenos hidraulicos ...

[@ModelA]

Los frenos hidráulicos están bien si el objetivo del recorrido es dejar de ajustar las varillas de freno. Sin embargo, aún debe ajustar correctamente las zapatas y todo debe estar en orden para que funcionen, incluso con el sistema hidráulico. Prefiero la configuración de freno de fábrica.

[@juanasanelli6831]

@@ModelA Yo NO y a la prueba estuvo que Ford despues de aburrir con el sistema de frenos mecanico termino en 1940 poniendo frenos hidraulicos Solo sobrevivio el freno mecanico en productos ford de inglaterra en camionetas Fordson .

[@carllinden533]

I imagine this being incredibly time consuming without this fancy lift

[@ModelA]

You might think that, but I actually find it easier and faster to do on the epoxy garage floor.

[@carllinden533]

@@ModelA Ah that would do it, especially with a floor crawler. I was imagining my soft dirt floor garage or gravel driveway

[@ModelA]

Easier on smooth epoxy floor. If you have smooth epoxy, you don't need a creeper, just a t-shirt and you can slide around with ease

[@briansherman3961]

Skinny jeans..... lol