How to adjust the bust point (height): Darts & princess seams. Let's improve our fit together.

I've always thought that the fit around the bust is paramount for an overall well-fitting garment and the standard bust height that patterns use might not necessarily be matching our body.
I am focusing on bust dart and 2 types of princess seams: from the armscye and from the shoulder to show how I do these height adjustments DAILY. These tips apply both for lowering and raising the bust point. In my case, I always need to lower the bust point, but the concept is the same.
I am also sharing how to obtain that magical number that is the bust height.
I hope this is useful for your fitting journey.
Accompanying blog post:
liftingpinsandneedles.com/202...
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Good FBA tutorial • How To: Understand Bas...
Visit my blog post for all the patterns mentioned in the video: liftingpinsandneedles.com/202...
How to support the channel:
- / liftingpinsandneedles for ongoing monthly rewards, exclusive posts, videos and more.
- ko-fi.com/liftingpinsandneedles A “coffee” will support the purchase of sewing supplies.
The following page on my website has the Affiliate links to Indie pattern companies and sewing tools (Amazon) I enjoy daily.
* if you purchase from these links, at no cost to you, I receive a small commission that helps support the channel *
liftingpinsandneedles.com/aff...
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Let’s Connect!
Instagram: www.insagram.com/liftingpinsa...
Facebook page: / liftingpinsandneedlesk...
Contact me: [e-mail]
MUSIC USED:
Artist: OmgLoSteve
Song: Too Late ft. Addie Nicole
Download/Stream: audiograb.com/00rnG6phv

[@pennytrupiano2689]

It seams rare for a figure so similar to mine that has such good fitting clothes. thank you for teaching me how to fix the bust point height. This just showed up in my feed. I enjoyed it.

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

Happy to help!

[@Rileygirl11746]

I am 80 and have just decided to get back into sewing for myself, which has always been an utter failure in fitting. I just recently learned about lowering a side dart which I've done successfully, but I have avoided princess styles my entire life simply because I did not know how to lower the curve to fit my body. Now I know.!!!!😂

[@marylynch8929]

This is most comprehensive tutorial I've seen, on any subject. My low bust thanks you :)

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

I’m glad rua is helpful :)

[@yvonnetrujillo5264]

Karina, love your teaching style - Thorough, calm, kind of funny (humorous). A joy to watch and learn from.

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@lynnbenson198]

Good job on the dart video. FYI, the big 4 pattern companies’ fit model in her early 20’s with a B cup size so that’s why most of us need to lower the dart as we age.

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

Yes I am aware. I’ve always had to lower mine even in my teens. I’m very long in the upper chest area anatomically.

[@jesshothersall]

Daft really, as I'm guessing most 20 somethings are out having fun, not staying in sewing...(lockdown excluded, when maybe they are taking up sewing in a big way)

[@robinduggins2806]

I usually avoid bust darts because, though I'm not a large bust, I have post menopausal bust droop. Your video instructions will help me. Thank you.

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

I’m so glad. Have a play on scraps and you’ll see a difference:)

[@dianemorrall2687]

I always thought a dart was a dart. As long as I chose the correct size pattern for my bust that was all I needed. Following your instructions on the Sonata Dress by Love Notions with the pattern adjustments you made, I have a beautifully fitted dress...the best I have ever made.

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

I’m so glad to hear that. Once the concept is taken in, it’s a game changer isn’t it? Thanks for watching 😊.

[@dianemorrall2687]

@@LiftingPinsandNeedles Another question... should the seam line of a Princess seam go across the apex of the bust?

[@janmiller1850]

Karina, this was amazing. Your sewing and fitting expertise is, indeed, limitless. Thanks for sharing so much of your knowledge. 💚💚💚

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

I’m so happy you liked it. These videos aren’t popular on my channel, but I make them because it’s my vision and I wish more people would watch 😀

[@janmiller1850]

@@LiftingPinsandNeedles I'm very glad you take the time to make them. As home sewing continues to take off in popularity, I think you'll find that your "technical" videos get more views. You're becoming a reliable authority on the subject .. and that takes time. 🤗🤗🤗

[@michelleyoung7364]

@@LiftingPinsandNeedles Karina, we are watching.

[@jeanetteh6842]

Wonderfully clear instruction Karina thank you. I can now appreciate that bust height is equally important as circumference to correct fit.

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

Exactly. It’s not just about circumference because we have forward shapes like the bust that need 3D shaping :)

[@donnaricho4466]

You explain it perfectly. Thank you

[@debbiebridges8807]

Thank you for this detailed video

[@swenstrand]

Very well done! I’m saving this as a reference. Thank you!

[@amyoungil]

Thanks so much for this video. I came back to it because of your woven top series. One thing that sets your advice and channel apart is that you have made several versions of the topic at hand, so you can show us specific examples. That is so fun for me. I think it gives yet another context for your makes.

[@ginnyrivera2786]

I didn’t want to wait for your new video on dart moving! I am THAT excited!! I will watch the new one too. ❤️❤️

[@lindak8664]

I’ve been enjoying binging on your videos over the last couple of weeks. You’re so knowledgeable and you explain things extremely well. The biggest lesson i’ve learned from you is, it’s unrealistic to expect to be able to whip out a brand new pattern and make a well fitting garment. I need to slow down, expect to spend a day or three adjusting the pattern & making a muslin. Then make a well fitting garment. If i want to do a one day marathon, i need to make a previously adjusted pattern, (or a shapeless sack dress, which always look awful on me!). That has been a hard lesson, even knowing new patterns simply will not fit me, I always hope.

[@teresaellis7062]

I can relate!

[@sarahmacred]

This is exactly what I needed. Thank you for your level of detail and clear images/examples.

[@ingridmohr9824]

I watched this after your video on the Peppermint mag princess seam dress. Thank you. My need is often to raise the dart (the "blessing" of being small busted and short and this video has given me the courage to try princess seams. I also sometimes need an SBA. Again your video has encouraged me to attempt new things! Thank you for sharing your knowledge so generously.

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

The concepts are similar for raising. I would love to have a smaller bust myself.

[@blodspage]

Very, very helpful. Thank you.

[@janematthews6579]

Thank you so very much for the exceptional and practical explanation of an adjustment that I need to do on every bodice. As always, your videos are cheerful, helpful, and useful. I want to express my sincerest gratitude for what you do and how you do it.

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

Glad it was helpful!

[@lyndagasper4346]

Thank you for such detailed information. I feel I can do these adjustments now.

[@julestopper7553]

Thank you for such clear instructions!

[@andreabush1742]

Thank you the bust darts on big 4 patterns are so high. Thank you!

[@zdenkasykorova182]

PERFECT. You are so clever. That's exactly what I needed. Thank you for your approach and the clear explanation.

[@yoshikoo1]

So helpful, thank you!

[@Hiker_who_Sews]

Thanks Karina.

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

You’re very welcome 😉

[@TWMAC2011]

Thank you, this helps a lot. I've pulled darts out of ready wear, and lowered them. Not all garments work, but it has helped a few blouses fit better for me.

[@jacqueline2610]

Lifting pins and needles. Thank you for publishing this video.

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

You’re very welcome 😉

[@jackiturner9228]

As usual your teaching is excellent. Thank you.

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

You’re very welcome ☺️

[@seasidestitches615]

Thank you so, so much Karina. This is relevant to me as I am unpicking yet another bodice where the bust fullness is far too high for me. Love the clarity and simplicity of your video, and the accompanying pictures on your website. Am now off to amend a few patterns. Wonderful of you to devote so much time to helping other sewists, Susan x

[@jesshothersall]

Thank you very much for this video, I have struggled with darts in the wrong place for as many years as I can remember, and had no idea how to change the height. Lovely clear video, and I'm very grateful you took the time to make it :). Now just need to find the video regarding fullness...

[@judym414]

Soooooooooooooo helpful.......as always!! Thanks Karina for taking the time to demo this.

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

I’m glad you liked it 😁

[@marigoldmirror5194]

Thank you for your tutorials, you are truly a gifted instructor! I have been learning to sew after acquiring a Traumatic Brain Injury. Your videos help me so much!

[@elizabeth4053]

This video earned a subscription. Hello and love from Alaska 🙋🏻‍♀️🏔️🧵🪡💕

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

Welcome! there is a lot too see here!

[@elizabeth4053]

@@LiftingPinsandNeedles thank you. And. Yes. There is a lot to learn and see from your videos

[@carorandolf7283]

Thank you so so much! This really cleared things up for me. It all makes sense now. You are awesome!!

[@cherylp.3347]

Lol, you’ve introduced a problem I didn’t even know I had! But you’re right, I do have a lower bustline ! I need to do this.

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

It’s makes a huge improvement to the fit, for sure :)

[@marathorne6821]

This video is amazing! Thank you so much for explaining the processes so clearly. It's given me confidence to try adjusting patterns for myself. Thank you, thank you! 👍

[@helennessfield5606]

there is nothing like seeing things demonstrated in a clear understandable way. this is brilliant, thank you

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

Glad it was helpful!

[@dawnpettitt1364]

Thank you for the very useful information. You explain everything so well. Brilliant!

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

Glad it was helpful!

[@juleejames9977]

Thank you for these instructions. Very helpful

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

You are so welcome!

[@hjkennaugh]

I have a pattern with princess seams I have always wanted to make but never have because I just couldn’t find any information on how to move the bust point on princess seams. I knew how to move a dart level by cutting a rectangle around it and use it all the time but this information on how to do it for a princess seam you have given makes total sense so now I can make my dress. Thank you so much.

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

I like the possibilities that princess seams have to customize the shape of the bust and having the bust point correct makes a big difference in the fit.

[@sewindubaialicia8313]

I absolutely love this video. I have been lowering my bust darts the same way you instructed in a previous video. It's fantastic that you included the princess seem tutorial as well, now I can reference all bust darts in one video. Thank you so much

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

I looked and couldn’t find many resources for the princess seams, so I thought it’d be cool to include too :)

[@sewindubaialicia8313]

@@LiftingPinsandNeedles well thank you again

[@sbrickett]

Thanks so much for making this adjustment seem so easy.

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

You are so welcome!

[@nonnalynn9187]

Wonderful description of these adjustments. Thank you, Karina.

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

You’re very welcome ☺️

[@jojobtrcook1808]

Thank you for explaining this. No wonder when I used to sew with

[@jojobtrcook1808]

Sorry, interrupted 🤪. As an adult, after having children, I could never get a pattern to fit, so I gave up. Now, 40+ yrs. later, I’m attempting to give this another go. I had no idea how to make these kind of adjustments! No wonder nothing fit! Thank you so much❤️❤️❤️. I always learn something from you!

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

I understand. When I was in my teens and 20s never needed fit adjustments and as my body has “evolved”, now in my 40s, nothing would’ve fit me without these changes.

[@marinaflores6526]

I will keep this video handy, great information, thanks!

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

I’m glad you liked it :)

[@pamalverson6554]

Have learned so much for watching you. Thank you

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

You’re very welcome 😊

[@christineennis4766]

Once again you have excelled yourself. I love the fitting content you give. Keep it up please.

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

Thanks, will do!

[@peggymcatee4950]

Thank you for this excellent video.

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

Glad it was helpful!

[@croixmom]

This is a great tutorial! Thank you so much for your teaching style and content.

[@joyceweand9594]

Thank you for the instructions. This is my first dart adjustment. Fingers crossed!

[@charlenefiumara333]

Thank you for this video. You made these adjustments so simple.

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

I’m so glad. They make such a positive difference to our fitting :)

[@BlessingGaia]

Thank you Karina, I always have to make dart height adjustments, so this video is very helpful.

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

Glad it was helpful!

[@myralorraine]

Thank you, thank you, thank you Karina! This is a wonderful tutorial! You have made moving bust darts a no brainer for me! I saved this video to my favorites and will be using it from this point on! Now I’m off to purchase you a Ko-Fi!

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

I’m so glad this helped you! And thank you so much for the coffee 🤗

[@delphinem7596]

Thank you Karina. Just used your technique on my Aisling Top from JLH. The dart is now sitting perfectly.

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

Awesome! This is a automatic step for me with darted styles. Always worth checking :)

[@sarahodonnell6957]

Perfect timing I am cutting out a princess seam dress tomorrow. Thank you. X 😊🙌🏻❤️

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

Awesome. All the best :)

[@norma6743]

Amazing 🤩 thank you 😊

[@candydavis4277]

You always make things look so easy 😋

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

Thanks! It is my goal. To simplify things that don’t need to be complex but people think they are 😁

[@islandsewcialist]

I am working on a mother of the bride dress and need to lower the apex on princess seams. This video was super helpful! Thanks! ❤

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

Yay! I’m glad it helped :) I always have to do the lowering.

[@Escape10mom]

Great info. I usually have to adjust my darts too.

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

Common thing to do. I’ve met a few women who don’t need to adjust... lucky ones 😀

[@micheleearnhart5595]

Thank you so much for this video. I really enjoyed the information.

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

Thank you so much for watching:)

[@lizbentley4926]

Thank you so much for this video, as usual you explained everything really clearly. This will be so helpful

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

I’m so happy this helps :)

[@chrischristian08]

Also I am So grateful for this teaching kind of video. Thanks so much for your hard work Karina. Stay safe too. X

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

I’m so glad you liked it. Although they are never the most seen, I know they can help so many in the long term. We are safely tucked away. I hope you are too.

[@jamilehbaadarani4740]

Great tutorial karina , so inspired, keep up the good work

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

Thanks for watching 😊.

[@kscheuerman5378]

Hi Karina, This tutorial will be so helpful for so many people. I have never seen bust point alterations for princess seams. That was great. Thanks. Take care and God Bless.

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

It’s quite simple and similar to what is done with darts only that there’s some eyeballing to do. Thanks for watching.

[@sewhappy6382]

Thanks Karina, this was such a good video, I thought I knew about dart adjustments but I learned so much from this, you are an excellent ‘teacher’.

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

Thank you so much :)

[@debbiehaynes8295]

Karina, thanks so much for this AMAZING video. You're an excellent seamstress, of course, but you are also a very effective teacher. 😁

[@AngelaCoffman]

Thank you so much! This is very helpful

[@AngelaCoffman]

Note to self when you come back to refresh your memory start at 17:00

[@donnashero7296]

you are amazing, enjoy your tutorials, learn so much . thank you

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

You are so welcome!

[@michelle-perthwa4974]

Fabulous tutorial Katrina, also wonderful to know what patterns you have used these changes on, and to understand why we need this. Amazing also that it doesn’t matter whether it is knit or woven - this adjustment makes all the difference. Once again thank you.

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

You’re welcome. The princess seam dress I modified there, I already made it and the fit was spot on at the bust.

[@irenedale5256]

Thank you - this was soooo helpful.

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

I’m so glad :)

[@seamsuneven7824]

Karina this was very informative! Thank you

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

You're so welcome!

[@laurihuhn4727]

Very good information. I never knew how to measure let alone to the adjustments. Thank you.

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

I’m glad this helped :)

[@wendyb7993]

What a fantastic tutorial I have never seen such a good way to do this thanks so so much 😍

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

I’m glad you liked it :)!

[@peggyriordan9857]

Wonderful video! I learned alot from this one. Now my darts will always be in the right place!! Thank you!

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

Glad it was helpful!

[@teresaellis7062]

After showing how to move a dart, I was like, "I'm going to run upstairs and do this right now!" and then I remembered that my shirt has a princess seam.😅 I need to be patient and wait for you to show adjusting princess seams. 😂 Edit: Now I can run upstairs and do this right now! 😂 Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. 🥰🥰 I have a long torso and a low bust point, so I just kinda gave up on finding ready made clothes that flattered. I have never successfully made a top or dress and so I am looking forward to my first nice looking shirt I made myself! 😍😍

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

I did show it in this same video. I showed darts and princess seams.

[@user-nn8lg9qu7y]

Thank you. Your video was excellent. 👏

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

I’m glad you liked it :)

[@jacqpot9413]

Wonderful content here! Thank you so much. This is very helpful!

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

You’re very welcome 😉

[@steachingbymaya]

Thank you for this excellent tutorial, you are a great teacher❤

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

Glad it was helpful!

[@mmw55122]

This is an EXCELLENT tutorial; thank you! I have saved this vid for reference.

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

I’m glad it helps. Thank you so much 😊

[@jesshothersall]

Thanks for reminding me to save it too :)

[@rosannesahai7604]

That was an amazing video so much detail

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

Thank you so much 😊

[@margaretshanahan844]

I enjoy your videos very much. You explain things so clearly and love your personality! Thank you for your videos! God bless. Margaret

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

You are so welcome!

[@DoloresDeeBodnar]

Very helpful Thank You

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

Glad it helped

[@annaqmano]

Hi It's Lisa from Seattle WA USA. Thank you very much for this topic

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

I’m glad you like it. Thanks for watching 😊.

[@AnitaMcB__]

This was an excellent video. Thanks for sharing

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

I’m glad you liked it. Thanks so much:)

[@leonstanford6810]

Hi Karina, great information, thank you.

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

I’m glad you liked it!

[@karenlewis5394]

You are amazing thank you so much you made that so easy to understand this has helped me look at dressmaking differently now and I hope to try and do this every-time from now on thanks again

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

I’m so happy to hear this. These types of videos are super labour intensive and they are the least seen on the channel. But I do know they have help those interested and it makes the work worth it. Thank you so much 😊

[@ursulachalupa8358]

Thank you very helpful, love you videos!

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

Glad you like them!

[@helenhart4778]

thank you for sharing this information. fantastic

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

I’m glad you liked it. Thanks for watching 😊.

[@ebbram9879]

Hi Katrina, Thanks so much for the princess seam adjustment - really helpfull. Elaine

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

Glad it was helpful!

[@sheenaschultz6935]

Thanks Karina for the information it makes this process so easy. Sheena

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

That’s the goal. Simple and doable :)

[@davidcharles8899]

Thank you so much❤

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

You're welcome 😊

[@sandybush1661]

Great video! I wish I could give it a dozen thumbs up.

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

Wow, thanks!

[@ShaneCrook]

Yes

[@kathywilliams9719]

Thank you for this tutorial! I will definitely be using it. Your creations are beautiful! Where do you find your fabrics?

[@alexandrawellington8028]

tank you Karina for a very informative vlog xxx

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

I’m glad you liked it :)

[@alexandrawellington8028]

@@LiftingPinsandNeedles I always do lovely lady 💗💗💗

[@tenzindekyi3326]

Thank you so much for the informative video...I'm one of those who blissfully wears a dart that is off😂

[@anitahaynes6171]

Thanks. Need this information. Please more videos with subject and clear title to find the information. I always learn from you.

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

Videos of this nature always have a clear title. There’s a limited number of characters available for a title, so I am limited that way. Thanks for watching.

[@24vad]

Great explanation. Now have a good fit on the front. However the back is too tight, do I have to do the same alteration to the back darts

[@louisedavidson848]

Love your videos. I started buying the style arc patterns. Have u ever made the Victor Pants?

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

No, I don't have the pattern for those pants.

[@sewandembmom12]

Looking for a tutorial on if you can serge woven princess seams. Great video!

[@LiftingPinsandNeedles]

Of course you can. Why couldn’t you. In this video I talk about sewing princess seams and the difference for stiff fabric and for softer fabrics. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jXXIZKyKpMStfaM