How To Apply a Boiled Linseed Oil and Paste Wax Finish BLO

How To Apply a Boiled Linseed Oil and Paste Wax Finish BLO
boiled linseed oil and paste wax are a fast and easy finish for your woodworking projects. in the wood By Wright 2 shop, this is a finish I use all the time especially on white oak. boiled linseed oil or BLO can be easily applied till the wood stops absorbing it. then let it dry for just a bit and apply the paste wax.
How to make BLO: • How to Make Boiled Lin...
How to make Paste wax: • How-to Make Paste Wax ...
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[@Nick5o9]

James! I always preferred water poly finish for everything because it was so fast but you are so passionate about BLO and wax finish that i just had to try it. ITS AMAZING- the feel is so smooth theres nothing that even comes CLOSE. Thank you so much for turning me on to it, its a game changer!!!

[@jenniferford2067]

Great video! I’m refinishing an antique school desk. The whole thing was dehydrated and splitting apart. After fixing all of it I’m working on finishing. 2 coats of BLO in now and I’m loving the finish so far.

[@orangehatmusic225]

Thank you for this video. I decided to use this method on a Yellow Pine table I am making and the result is absolutely beautiful. Thank you!

[@danalaniz7314]

Thanks for posting this. I'm a woodworking beginner and this video is very helpful. Headed over to watch the on on making the paste wax.

[@DuncanEdwards.]

For 30 years I have used a decent paint brush to apply wax. A 2" wide brush, I cut the bristles down, leaving them around 1/2" long, cuts the application time by at least 50% I buff with a bristle brush in a drill, the shine is awesome.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

nice. I have seen a few others do that. there is an old traditional method of doing it with a tightly bound bundle of broom bristles that does amazing work like that.

[@ikust007]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo Yes kind of a French Polissoir

[@TrapShooter68]

This is a great finish for the wooden handles of garden tools

[@PolaOpposite]

Your workshop is amazing!

[@SteveC38]

Thank You James, I always learn so much from you!

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

thanks Steve! my pleasure!

[@dmcwoodworx2968]

by looks of the ending you pleased an knowledgeable power tool. Manpower tool

[@martinfalconer546]

Thanks for the tip about this being a tactile finish. I'm thinking of applying this finish to my stair hand-rails

[@FlyinSwabbie]

Curious if you did this and how it went. I have a 3-story log home with lots of knotty pine balusters and handrails, and the finish is terrible - rough surfaces etc. I plan to make a bow sander to get then smoothed up and then refinish, but am as yet uncertain how to finish. Really hoping to avoid poly and the air quality issues that would come with it. (Am a double lung transplant recipient so am very sensitive to respiratory care.)

[@FredMcIntyre]

Thanks for the info James! 😃👍🏻👊🏻

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Any time Fred!

[@alexanderralph2504]

One of my favourite finishes! Leaves a great snell in the workshop too 😜

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

I am in love with the smell of BLO!

[@hassanal-mosawi6049]

Thanks for sharing that

[@ryanallthewiser]

Great show James! Always fun to be intimate with the process 😳. Seriously good reminders for us folks of BLO and Paste Wax. Now what are you going to do with the board? No boring answers please! 🤣

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

LOL probably throw it int h fire pile!

[@roseandrowich263]

Thank you so much

[@cameronoverfield8764]

Well come to Cody some day and see it. It’s impressive butch Casady and the sun dance kid ,Jeremiah Johnson, Bill Cody, and many others

[@justplanebob105]

:) Great Video. I've watched all your BLO videos and always learn something new. I'm about to get my wife to relent and let me try a small can. Can I reassure her that it is perfectly safe in the can on the garage shelf?

[@justplanebob105]

I can't say as I blame her concerning the fire hazard. My cousin's very large, professional woodshop burned to the ground recently. It was devastating. Static electricity from the stirring sawdust around the large wall fan we think.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

oh yes. in the can there is no problem at all. it takes extreamly specific conditions of insulation with oxygen availability but not too much airflow for them to catch on fire. the problem is a wadded rag in the corner of a can is about that amount. so spilled on the floor or even dumped over a pile of fire starter kenneling will not do it.

[@-Gunnarsson-]

every paintjob I ever done has got issues. from now on im gonna use lindseed oil :D

[@ricos1497]

If you watch this video at 2x speed, the BLO actually catches light as you buff in the paste wax.

[@Psy6o]

And how the hell did you figure that out bro ... lol

[@rustproof97]

Thanks for the video. Just wondering if you had more time, would you add more layers of the oil finish or the past wax? Separate question, I am having trouble with bleed through and wondering if waxing would stop this from happening or at least being apparent? Thoughts? Thanks in advance.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Oil and wax are not a very protective finish. They don't fully seal. My first question is what is bleeding through? You can add multiple layers but generally it doesn't do that much unless you're willing to do 18 to 20 layers over the course of several months.

[@terri2589]

Great video! I just finished putting BLO on an oak transition strip. Looks great but should I put a poly finish on it? I'd prefer not to by anything else, so would any of these work if it needed? 1.Minwax Wipe-on Poly 2.Minwax hardwood floor Reviver 3.Orange Glow Hardwood Floor Refinisher. Thank you so much!

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

of those three I would go with Wipe on Poly. it is the easiest of those to apply and would give the most protection.

[@goatboy78]

Newbie question. You mention using a sanding sealer prior to applying oil on woods like maple. Wouldn't a sealer prevent the oil from penetrating the wood?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

yes it does but not enough to matter. the problem with maple and pine and other woods like that is the oil will soak in more in some spots and less in others and that is what gives you a blotchy nature. if you use a sanding sealer or pre stain the oil will still soak in enough but it will not soak in too much on those places. this way you will get a more even color across the board.

[@drkaustubhwagh9779]

I did this for my tobacco pipes, added with cardoba wax, used sandalwood oil instead..

[@lorirn9115]

LOVE that idea - the pleasing waft of sandalwood throughout this process! Assuming it has similar longevity in regard to maintaining hydration to the wood fibers? They could market that specifically to women woodworkers...an entire line-up at the hardware store courtesy of Bath & Body Works! 😉

[@ayevelins]

Great tutorial, thanks. Unfortunately even though it's an easy process I meesed it up by not wiping off the lineseed oil excess soon enough. So it's been 3 days and parts of the surface are sticky. What can I do? Would sanding those parts with ~400 grit paper and then reapplying oil would help? Or should I use some sort of more rough buffing pad on my drill? Thanks in advance.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Oh. No fun. At that point I usually either scrape the surface and reapply or lightly sand with 400 grit and reapply.

[@fredcdobbs823]

Wouldn't wiping a turpentine or mineral spirits thinner on the surface correct it?

[@michaelarighi5268]

For a more durable finish, i'm looking at BLO and two coats of a water-based poly. Not sure it would be a great fine furniture finish. Were it a smaller piece, I'd probably use Rubio Monocoat, but I'm looking at trying to finish >500 linear feet of bookshelves and trying to limit the VOCs, in deference to the friend whose apartment is over my shop. Oil-based poly would give a more durable finish, but the VOCs are way too high.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Yeah if you're trying to stay away from vocs Rubio Monaco is really the way to go. Usually when doing Polly it is five coats or more to get the general look you're going for. If you put them on too heavy it just ends up looking blotchy.

[@payambakhshi1498]

Just wondering when was the last time you used that monitor :)

[@nboris2622]

James, have you ever used a polissoir? If you have, I'd be curious as to your thoughts.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

yes I have. I have a video on another channel about that. if I am using a harder wax that is my preferred way to do it, but with a wax that has the thinner, It is not needed. but that is just my personal opinion!

[@MrMNRichardWright]

James, a question I have had in my head for a while, maybe you can help. Is the Danish style oil / finish at all related to blo?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

yes and no. danish oil is usually a blo and varnish mix. but there are more recipies then you can shake a stick at. most people will call any oil+(varnish, shellac, Poly, etc.) a danish oil. and then there are people out there that will tell you it is a specific recipe mix. In the end it is a very vague term.

[@markco500]

I appreciate this James. Do you use a fine or coarse steel wool pad? I plan on sanding a wood cookie with 220 grit paper and I don’t want to cut into the wood with something too coarse.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

I use extra fine to apply the paste wax.

[@markco500]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thank you!

[@darellduffy2908]

I am considering using linseed oil on the interior of a 40 year old drift boat. The wood is quite dry and previously had paint as a finish, which I have removed. Is this a good use for this finish. My thought is to reapply oil each summer before fishing season.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

That sounds like a fantastic plan. It is very common to use BLO in the boat making world. After repeated seasons it creates a really lovely glow.

[@randyb3347]

So in your vid you have a short screwdriver with a wooden handle. Would you use the BLO and paste wax to finish this tool? Thanks, always enjoy your videos.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Yes I would. Fantastic for hand help tools!

[@randyb3347]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo Good, I have a few of those wooden handle screwdrivers. I'll try your method and see how it goes.

[@ikust007]

This video is now in my Favorites;) question: I heat up in the microwave a few second my paste so it goes in more deeply . What do you think ? Also: what would you use for Kitchen table or the same situation (risks of a bit of water , glasses)? I end up with white spots for now:((( bravo for your work !

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

heating it up will not help it go any deeper then the friction of polishing will heat it up to. The wax is not there to go deep it is there to fill poors on the surface. I know some people swear by heat guns and other methods, but I have not found any benefit. for table tops or other furniture I generally use Whip on ploy or a hard wax like rubio monocoat.

[@ikust007]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo Good and thank you. From what you say i understand that you put a coat of Poly (water based ?) with a brush, table tops etc..

[@RIBill]

So, why doesn't the BLO have to fully polymerize before waxing? Wouldn't the wax seal the oil and prevent the oxidation reaction which causes it to harden?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

There is plenty of oxygen in the wood to polymerize it. Just not needed at all to let it set. it will slow it down a few hours, but not as much waiting the several days for the BLO to fully polymerize. and in the end if you do let it sit it will seal itself as it polymerizes from the outside in.

[@angelagrace4488]

This is so helpful! I’m working on a 100 year old oak mantle. Is there a need to Do more than one coat? If so, How long do you wait between coats?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

it depends on the look you are going for I keep adding oil every 10-15 minutes tell the wood stop soaking it up then let it cure. but if you want a film finish then you will want 10-15 coats with 24 hours in-between.

[@angelagrace4488]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo thanks!

[@phildodd9942]

A brilliant tutorial ! Are there any criteria regarding the shop temperature to get the paste wax to spread easily ? Presumably the wood has been in the shop for a while to acclimatise - is a warm temperature best to get the wax to spread and to buff ? Many thanks !

[@drawlele]

In my experience as long is the shop is around 60°F any type of finish should work fine, this goes for glue drying as well, when I lived in Florida I didnt have to worry about to cold I had to worry about to hot since I had a non air conditioned shop and at around 99°F glues work ok but finishes dont really have time to soak into the wood before the alchohol begins to evaporate and the finish begins to set. Not sure if James has a problem, lucky man with a basement shop.

[@phildodd9942]

@@drawlele Thanks for that insight ! Yes 99F sounds a bit on the hot side. We have the opposite problem in the UK, with around 46 or 48 now, and getting down to a few degrees below that in Jan/Feb unless we spend a lot on heating. So 60 sounds a good temperature to aim at - MANY THANKS for that recommendation !

[@drawlele]

@@phildodd9942 your welcome, I've seen this question pop up in a few places, I grew up in northern Indiana and southern Michigan and it gets cold here, like right now its -1°C ( 30°F) and that's warmer than it was yesterday, but when I first got into woodworking it was restoring antiques in our barn and during the winter I had to break out a salamander to heat one little room just so I could use stain and poly, since I lost my shop in Florida I'm back to antiques till I can get up and running again but it's in an uninsulated garage so I've got a little space heater that does ok in a 2 car garage, I'd love to have an insulated space that way it would stay warmer but I'll take what I can untill I can afford something better. Depending on how big your shop is and where its located a medium room size space heater will more than do the trick just keep as much saw dust away from it as possible, safety first. If you have an outdoor shop a small iron fireplace would heat it up so well you could take your shirt off and still sweat.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

as long as the water is liquid it should be fine. it is just harder to spread when it is cold, but the rubbing usually warms it up nicely.

[@phildodd9942]

@@drawlele Hi! Thanks for that further insight! Good luck with the antiques and setting up the shop soon as you want it! You're pretty versatile being able to switch to antiques - might look easy - many try but you need the eye and the skill - and it is finding the right materials for a good repair? I admire you! All the best!

[@pitcheresque]

Can you use tung oil before finishing wax, using this same process?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

sure can. Real Tung oil and BLO are almost identical.

[@fredcdobbs823]

What is the difference in finish if you apply BLO followed by paste wax and just putting on paste wax made from BLO & wax already in it?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

The BLO by itself will soak farther into the wood then it will if it's in the wax. That also brings out more of the color if it is applied out of the wax first.

[@johnmazza9432]

I had recently watch a few videos where people mix BLO and mineral spirits to help the BLO penetrate the wood better and to thin it out because they claim that straight BLO can darken rough wood too much . I'm talking about rough finish outdoor furniture. What would you suggest for outdoor wood projects or perhaps wood siding on a house ? Would BLO be an appropriate finish on a white oak boat ? In my area I have access to free white oak logs and I was considering all kinds of projects for that wood being that it is highly rot resistant.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Yes you can add centers to it and that will help it penetrate a little bit farther. It won't keep it from darkening the wood. it will actually darken and bloch the wood a little bit more because it has deeper penetration. As to using it on an exterior project it's not a great protectant. It can do that but understand that you're going to have to reapply it every few months. It's not a long-term finish. for that you would probably want to get a marine grade varnish.

[@johnmazza9432]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo I'm thinking that a varnish sits on top of the wood rather than penetrate and i it would simply bring out the natural beauty while also preventing water penetration because it's soaking the wood with an oil. I'm looking for a treatment to put on timbers as well. Seems that some people use diesel fuel mixed with asphalt roofing tar for things like fence posts. And I've also heard that soaking the wood with antifreeze will kill mold and insects well but it will leach out of the wood unless a topcoat is applied. Does this make sense ? If you were building a boat with white oak what would you use purely from a functional perspective ?

[@lishaieitan799]

To what grit level should one sand the wood before applying BLO? Is it true that the oil will not soak as well if the wood is sanded to above 220 grit or so ?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

I usually don't go much over 220. But I know a lot of people who will go up to 400. Contrary to popular belief it will actually soak in better with finer dust. so there really isn't a problem with sanding with high grip before applying an oil finish.

[@lishaieitan799]

Wow, that was quick ;) Thank you so much, for the reply and the awesome videos!

[@mypony891]

How does the paste wax help the wood other than making it more slick

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

It fills the pores so that water has a harder time getting in. It also makes it easier to clean if something spills it's less likely to stick to the surface.

[@djandilyaver7412]

If I use a vacuum for deep absorption will it work ?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

The vacuum chamber will pull it down a little bit more but not that much more.

[@brooklynpaul4003]

Thanks to you, BLO and paste wax is my go-to. But I have a question. If I understand what you said in the video, after about 15 minutes, when the BLO is dry to the touch, you can apply the paste wa. Yet it seems that everyone else on the Internets says it takes at least 24 hours for BLO to dry. Are you saying you can apply the wax before the BLO is fully cured?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Correct. You can apply it before it cures. It will still cure even with the paste wax.

[@febrysyidan772]

hello sir, if the composition of making beeswax by mixing boiled linseed oil, turpentine, beeswax, minwax poly, can this be done? and what is the final result when applied to wood? 

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

You can, but you will generally get a better result applying them separately. Oil first, finish second, and wax on top.

[@brettshegogue]

I was trying to do some research and it seems the chemical dryer in the commercial versions is cobalt manganese salt. I can't seem to find a lot of information on it, but the first aid safety sheet says if it gets on skin to just wash with soap and water. I have been applying with my hands...can't decide how I feel about this

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

that is one of the common ones but other companies use other dryers, and there has been very little research done on most of them. that is not to say they are not a LOT better then they use to be. they use to be mercury additives. but a lot of the caution exists from that history.

[@jgoodwin1598]

I always wear nitrile gloves with any chemicals safe or not . They are cheap and harbor freight has plenty.

[@yulbd3133]

This appears to be almost exactly what i'm looking for in a natural finish for tool/knife handles. What I'm left wondering about is just how much does the wax fill the wood pores? I 've had red oak handles get their large pores gummed up with dirt and hand gunk, and so protecting those pores is a bit of a concern for me. can a wax coat ever completely fill them, or at least partially deny dirt? And the part 2 to that question: would additional coats of BLO go on prior to or after the wax? Can a 3-coat of oli, wax, then oil potentially form a slightly hardier or pore-filling coat?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

nothing short of a coat of epoxy will ever completely block the pours but paste wax is close. that is what I use on all of my hand tools. I recoat them with paste wax once a year or so to freshen them up. not much will stick on top of the paste wax. so it is usually the final coat for whatever finish is used.

[@yulbd3133]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo alright, neato, thanks. cheers to staying on top of your comment section over three years down the line!

[@johnshmtl3377]

Thanks James, what are your thoughts on applying a pre-application of linseed oil diluted 50% with varsol, allow to dry, and follow with a final application of non-diluted oil? I read that somewhere and it seems to work fairly well.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

In the tests I've done that doesn't give you any better penetration. It's just my personal tests but I found it just to be more work.

[@railroader8728]

Can mildew grow on a BLO finish? I have mildew on wood that needs killed and refinished. Any thoughts on how to kill the mildew?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Mildew can grow on any finish as long as the humidity is right. Once BLO is cured it's pretty much like any polyurethane or other wood finish. Usually a little bit of vinegar will kill the mildew and clean the surface well.

[@railroader8728]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thank you! I’ll clean it with vinegar and reapply BLO. I’m also going to try your paste idea.

[@lalayrayuh1299]

Can acrylic gesso be applied on wood with boiled linseed oil?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Yup once it is cured.

[@AGENT-tq1nm]

Hello , can i use 100% pure and natural double boiled linseed oil for protection of my Turkish Walnut on my gun stock which i recently bought? Or should i use the gun for some years and then start using oil ??

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Yes. A lot of gunsmiths use that. Double boiled is just boiled linseed oil without the chemical dryers.

[@AGENT-tq1nm]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo hello , can you also tell me any wax i should use after that on my stock? I live in India and i dont have access to all usa or europe made products... Hence any basic wax or multipurpose wax u know of which i can search in my area ?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Most any wax will do fine. they each have their pros and cons, but it comes down to personla taste. here is a video on making finishing wax. kzbin.info/www/bejne/apycnn2qq9aDb5Y

[@MD-en3zm]

What ratio do you use in making the oil/wax/alcohol mix that you use as paste wax?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Here are the different mixes I use. kzbin.info/www/bejne/apycnn2qq9aDb5Y

[@MD-en3zm]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thanks!

[@mattski1979]

So the wax seals the linseed oil so you don't have to wait 24 hours for it to dry? If you said so already I apologize. Thank you for your answer.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

the oil still takes as long to dry as it normally does the wax will just bond with it even when it is not fully cured.

[@mattski1979]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo thank you

[@chrisbuchanan5595]

Hi there will varnishes go over top of boiled liner seed oil

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

sure. you will just want to wait for 24 hours or so for the BLO to harden fully before applying it. I often put Poly over it so I can get the color of the BLO wit the protection of poly.

[@jgoodwin1598]

I usually use ARS but give the BLO about 3 days just to make sure it’s cured. @ James have you seen any benefit to multiple coats of BLO?

[@cameronoverfield8764]

I live in Cody Wyoming. My friend sprays about 400 gallons of Linseed oil at a place called old trail town in the summer and does not get that he needs protection

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Well. That sounds like a fun time

[@lilcurtie]

Would this be good for a pen finish

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

That's what I like on my pins. It's not glossy like a super glue finish. you can really feel the grain

[@thelosttexan1717]

can you boil down paste wax and boiled linseed oil for a finish or do you have to use bees wax

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

I guess I don't quite understand the question. Pace wax is a wax and an oil mixed together. Often there's a thinner added as well. beeswax is just one of the waxes that is often used to make a paste wax. I have a few different videos on making boiled linseed oil and paste wax if you want to see those. Otherwise send me an email I'd be glad to describe it better.

[@thelosttexan1717]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo ok is it better to use store bought paste wax minwax etc. Or make your own with beeswax and linseed oil

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

@@thelosttexan1717 That depends on what you prefer. Some people just like to use this stuff that they make themselves. Minwax though is a great product and is very easy to use. So it's up to the individual person to choose what they prefer to work with.

[@emmengel]

Linseed oil and lacquer

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

love a good danish oil!

[@PeteMcDermott]

Have you ever used a heat gun to get the pastewax to soak into the wood? If so is it worth the effort

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

it will not soak in any more then the oil already has. The pourpus for the wax is not to soak in but just to fill surface poors to help keep water out and keep the oil in as long as possible. the friction of the rag provides more then enough heat for that.

[@PeteMcDermott]

Wood By Wright How 2 cheers James

[@scottwebb3808]

Can this finish be applied to stained wood?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Yes it can.

[@swingtheding3004]

Bruv the way you talk reminds me of Bob Ross but without hair.

[@crafts_avenue]

can I apply poly over the wax ?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Generally it is the other way around. The wax will seal the poly. Generally the poly will not do well over a wax finish.

[@crafts_avenue]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo thank you..I'm new to woodworking and your videos are great source of knowledge.

[@bigpinut2386]

What grit u use before the oil

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

300+

[@feralgrandad4429]

I burn my old linseed rags, safety first :-)

[@ninjadeathoverlord3254]

"It's going to give you the runs" he says without a hint of doubt. I'm guessing you've tested this?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

LoL I use to drink it for the camera for these videos. ya bad move. LOL

[@fredcdobbs823]

I think it's flaxseed oil, a food supplement.

[@drawlele]

Your homemade wax in a jar looks a little bit like peanut butter and at first that's what I thought you had sitting on the bench, I was like dang dude hungry?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

ya don't mix it up!

[@sherizaahd]

What happened to the other 2 minutes?

[@drawlele]

You pointed out something I missed, the first watch I didn't notice he said 12min video

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

LOL I am keeping them in the volt for the directors cut!

[@weldabar]

First, but nothing clever to say.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Woot Woot! we have a new king of first!

[@ramingr]

First "first" comment that didn't make me frown :)

[@ryanallthewiser]

Don’t get to cocky... I’ll be back!! 😬

[@yellowchartreuse]

Why do you add the word "actually" to everything you say randomly?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

That is a very good question LOL

[@alantaylor3329]

The best thing to do if you can is take your used rags or paper towels and burn them in a burn box or charcoal grill. I made the mistake of throwing them in a plastic county trash can and a cop fire and that plastic burn super hot and burn the side of my house where the cans were. So just be careful.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

if you have the ability then that is the way to go.

[@andrewbrimmer1797]

If you use a trash container with a lid you are safer

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

No. That can be even worse! Most of the fires I have seen and read about are in trash cans with lids. That slows the air movement and retains heat. Unless it is a fire safe can designed for it. That is a bad idea.

[@oOBaxterWoods]

the way to mess it up is burning down your home or work space