How to Use Boiled Linseed Oil BLO and Paste Wax Wood Finish How To Apply

Boiled Linseed Oil and Paste Wax finish is one of my favorite Wood Finishes. it is fast and easy to apply and provides a great finish!
for More BLO Info: • How to use Boiled Lins...
BOL is not the most protective woodworking finish. but BLO and Pastewax provide a great look that feels fantastic int he hand.
The Boiled Linseed Oil I use is hand made. you can see more about that here. I also have videos on how to make BLO and how to make Pastewax here. • How to use Boiled Lins...
For the past wax I like the cheap store bought stuff but there are times I would like to make my one, but that is a project for another day.
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[@G.I.JeffsWorkbench]

I completely agree with choosing BLO for the applications you suggested. It’s an old school solution for a reason - it just works. All of my wooden handle tools are treated with BLO. It’s also my go to finish for workbench tops if I don’t want to alter the natural color of the wood. In this application, paste wax is essential to resist glue from sticking. Thanks for highlighting this simple but elegant finish.

[@karlmouck4878]

I've worked with a 50/50 mixture of BLO & turpentine for years. The turpentine thins the oils for better penetration into the wood. After a few coats of that over a several day period, then I finally apply the paste wax.

[@SavageVoyageur]

Thanks for the video, great tips. I just started using this stuff again on my carvings. Great finish. I burn my boiled linseed oil rags immediately in my fire pit. A few years ago I had some rags started to smoke and were burning after I went back to my workshop. Spontaneous combustion is a real thing.

[@BarryHansenK7BWH]

The video that keeps on giving. Here I am, a year after you published it, and it answers all sorts of key questions: toxicity, drying time, multiple coats, why to use paste wax protection, and more. Thanks!

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Thanks. I will keep them coming!

[@edwardcroninwoodcrafts5795]

Very informative Great.😂

[@billtiffin8298]

The finishing method I was taught back in Junior High School (1960,s) was to rub in Danish Oil with a fine wet/dry sandpaper applying several coats and then paste wax. I still have a few pieces that still look good.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Nice. What recipe do you use for Danish Oil?

[@billtiffin8298]

I haven’t used it a lot but a can from the box store ,Circa. I am going to use it on a project so I will be making some of my own this time. I think I’ll make two recipes to test. Equal parts boiled linseed oil, turpentine, and spar varnish. The other recipe will double the varnish. Thanks for the inspiration. I hadn’t thought of making my own finishes until watching your videos. I have made your linseed oil bee wax recipes

[@benjaminadair9548]

I finally did a project that I got to use B.L.O. on #2 or better cedar. Thanks to you I have a new finish. Thanks again

[@WoodByWright]

My Favorite finish!

[@LouisFPak]

Subbed just because of your shop wall. This guy knows wood.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Thanks. Let me know if you have any questions.

[@mtrower025]

When you said flaxseed, my mind was blown... polymerized flaxseed oil is what I season my cast iron cookware with. Who knew that the surface I cook on is the same material I finish my wood with? Thanks for the video!

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

It is a great oil that has many different uses.

[@javiermontes905]

This guy dropping knowledge

[@mstsp9546]

I stopped using Pledge, and started using liquid gold. That seems to help the wood, but, some cabinets, paneling, just looks dry still after just a couple of months. I am not trying to create a seal, just trying to "treat" the wood. After watching, I think I''ll try the paste wax first. Thanks for the vid.

[@Stormbrise]

Oh my gosh! I recognize you from WU channel, you’re the first video recommended to me because I’m looking at my options to finish my new work from home worktop.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Lol yup. That was me. I am here to help of there is anything I can do.

[@swdupree1]

My mom used linseed oil on our burns or scrapes when were younger

[@tryingagain14]

Interesting. Also just read the comments, lots of discussion. I think I might try experimenting with this. I've tried a perlue before and it's got a nice feel on tools. It's made in thirds. One part linseed oil heated (carefully ) with one part beeswax. Then take it away from the heat and stir in one part turpentine. Easy to apply - slap on and wipe off and it feels nice in hand. Sorry for post length

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

NIce. I love a good Danish oil mix! there are so many good ways to do it!

[@muhhamad786]

Coolio! I like the paste wax to top it all off. Looks great!

[@rheum976]

It's about time you did a video on BLO :P

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

LOL I figured it would be a good one to lead with here!

[@jway5580]

I use 3 different textured cloths to polish the wax. Starting with a microfiber cloth and ending up with an old tee shirt.

[@grandadz_forge]

Blacksmiths love BLO, or BLO with beeswax for finishing ironwork and we also love BLO as a finish for Hammer handles

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Right on. It has a lot of old time uses

[@grandadz_forge]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo is that an over-the-hill joke? Lol

[@bonjbonc]

Thanks for sharing this. Really apppreciate your effort.

[@magicdaveable]

My favorite finish BLO and paste wax.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Oh ya!

[@brushbros]

To speed curing add Japan dryer. It also adds hardness though does not speed drying. For that thin with naphtha.

[@ohshoot444]

Thanks! This is what I’m after. I’m doing a cheap airgun stock and would rather not use chemicals. I’ve got to find some natural products now.

[@kleineroteHex]

don't ask........ thank you for the explanation!!!

[@mickramsay5002]

Great tip, thank you! I’m gonna give it a try on my next project.

[@danielholt6741]

I combine 1 gallon of boiled linseed oil and 2 gallons of mineral spirits. I use to treat my deck boards. I have had the same deck for 30 years....

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

That is the way to go!

[@1whitecottagelife770]

I watched the video saying that the mineral spirits, boiled linseed oil and wax is used by the forest service. Doesn’t it make the deck slippery? And how does it hold up in full sun?

[@brandonbentley5453]

Although not Bullitt proof built up multilayer linseed finish on a rifle stock can be quite durable, and what dings you get when reoiled look great. 😉

[@waelbu-holigah9308]

Greetings, thanks for sharing your experience.

[@pcg3003]

The stock of an inherited Remington Model 14-A was finished with BLO and beeswax. In addition to it's classic color and beauty, the American Walnut stock surprised me because it doesn't show scratches. I noticed this after an afternoon of bushwhacking through thorny blackberry canes. The wax must be deeply penetrated. I doubt that this is unique to this rifle, as the old timers hunted before there were many roads or trails and therefore must have been seasoned bushwhackers. I always apply linseed oil with a bare hand as the heat from my hand seems to relax the wood allowing for deeper penetration.

[@petrsidlo7614]

Have you ever had a problem with the steel wool? I finally tried it on two projects, the first went fine, it was a shelf top and I first applied linseed oil with a rag and then wax after one day with the steel wool. End result was clean and smooth. But with the other project (drill bit organiser) I applied the wax after half an hour and the bits of the wool got stuck in the grain. The wood was european beech, planed smooth, no sanding and the wool was used before. I wondered if the holes for the bits ripped the wool, causing it sheer off and get stuck, but it left residue even on the smooth sides, so maybe the short drying time of linseed oil is at fault. Anyway, great video as always, keep it up!

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

If ever I do any carving or other surfaces, I then apply with a rag and I'm a little more careful. But for flat smooth surfaces I use steel bowl.

[@petrsidlo7614]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo thanks, I hoped it would be something like that, because otherwise the surface was perfect

[@martinhawrylkiewicz2025]

Hi there! I really enjoy watching your vids and was wondering if you could tell me, in general, how many coats of Boiled Linseed Oil would be recommended to apply on unfinished pine book case I just made... I already applied the first coat, and after 15 min I whipped it with a dry cloth. She looks really nice... Just wondering if I have to apply more coats before waxing. Thank you.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

It depends on the look you want the more coats the more gloss it gets. Even more if you let it sit for 24 hours in-between.

[@theenderface7379]

I use Johnson's Paste Wax and yes, the thinner in it makes it stink... I wear an RZ Mask respirator most of the time because I'm a hybrid wood worker but if I forget to put it on before I wax something, yeah it's not fun and will give you a headache.

[@michaelgardner9394]

thanks James. That's my go to as well...

[@joevrabel7374]

Thank you. Just watched. For a gunstock (walnut), how many coats could/should I put on? Does it matter? How long to dry between coats? Put wax on? Sorry but I was handed this gun stock by my bro in- law who is suffering from ALS and I promised him I would do it. I’ve worked with would before just not BLO. Thanks again!

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

That's a great way to start an argument. You asked 10 people who work on gun stocks and you'll get 13 different options. Everyone has their particular way of doing it. There really is no best way. It also depends on how dry the wood is and it's particular poisonous. Usually I keep it soaked for 2 to 3 hours just keep adding more as it absorbs it. And then I'll wipe it off let it sit for about 30 minutes and then apply the paste wax. Wait for the paste wax to cure and polish it off. That's about where I like it there's some people will do upwards of 30 coats of BLO wiping it off and waiting a day in between each coat.

[@FredMcIntyre]

Thanks for the info James! 😃👍🏻👊🏻

[@skyhawaii5446]

Thanks for the info. I have 2 questions. 1. In your example, can you put the BLO over paste wax or do you have to strip the wax 1st? 2. As a painting contractor, I encounter projects where cedar, redwood or exotic wood walls are in the house. Would you use your coating method as in this video to achieve a natural look to the walls or do you think it would be a maintenance nightmare? Again, thanks for your video.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

It really depends on what your desires are for the finish. a strait oil and wax finish needs to be reapplied every 6 months to a year. it is not a protective finish. it is most commonly used for hand held situations where you want to feel the wood. If the wax is cured and a bit older 6 months or so. Then yes you can reapply oil over ti, but often you just re apply paste wax as it has oil in it. Often if you want the natural wood look and you want a protective coat then a hard wax is the way to go. something like Rubio Monocoat. I hope that answers your questions.

[@ronhall173]

Great video. I just finished a TV tray and used the boiled linseed oil (love the finish that it left). I was going to use a paste wax but after watching your video am concerned with that not being a strong enough finish since it will be used for an eating table. Thinking I should put a shellac finish over the linseed finish….. Was wondering if you had and idea’s. Thanks again for the informative video Ron

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

That's too protective finish it really depends on what you like. There are so many different choices out there and they all have different benefits. Personal my favorite is Rubio monacoat. It looks almost exactly like boiled linseed oil but actually provides a protective finish that's what I put on my dining table It is also the easiest finish in the world to put on and smells amazing. With all those great bonuses though comes a fairly high price.

[@johncollins8304]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo Rubio monocoat, on Amazon UK 1.3 Litres for only...£711. Yup. £711. Seven hundred smackeroos!!

[@randomscandinavian6094]

What about making something more like the hardwax-oils you can buy? I have tried a couple that I like (Osmo, Odie’s) but it should be possible to make something of that nature I think. A wax and oil blend with a honey like consistency that has both qualities in one solution. If you melt some Beeswax and maybe a little bit of Carnuba wax into Boiled Linseed Oil, add a little citrus oil (friendlier turpentine alternative) to make it thinner and also maybe some potassium hydroxite. I’m just theorizing. I was going to try a mix like that but I’ll get into trouble if I do so in the kitchen here.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

I would love to hear your findings. got to love using Osmo!

[@phildodd9942]

A great description of the difference between some of your favourite products - thank you ! If you see this, what finish would be best for protection against woodworm ? Thanks !

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

I've never had any problems with wormwood. Up here The winters get cold enough that we really do not have much problem with insects and other things that borrow into wood. mostly the only issues we have are carpenter ants. And if you take the wood away from the colony then you don't have a problem anymore.

[@phildodd9942]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thank you for the reply ! Cold - so THAT'S why you needed that nice warm bed that you made !

[@FnLn55]

At 6:46 you seem to imply that you can apply more BLO on top of the wax. Wouldn't you have to sand the wax off first, before adding more BLO? Thanks - Steve.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Nope. Was is porous enough. Generally the wax is last to go on but there are reasons to do other things..

[@fredastaire6156]

Great video, thank you for posting. Im currently making some wooden shelves; are we supposed to sand between coats of BLO? I’m also going to be using a finish cost of oil based poly...because it’s going to be a bookshelves with lots of traffic, wear, and tear.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Sounds like fun. no you don't sound between coats of BLO because most of the time it's still tacky when you put the next coat on. But it is not a film finish so there isn't much to sand anyways. Usually I just put my first coat of poly over top of the BLO once it's dry to the touch. And then go from there.

[@michaelheemstra3559]

I am trying my hand at making wooden rings. For the finish i use BLO two coats of shellac and then a few coats of poly. For the BLO rather than applying more finish every 15 minutes till it is saturated could I just soak the rings in it for 15 min then wipe the excess off or would that be too much? Thank you for all the fantastic tutorials!

[@rkeller1ify]

michael Heemstra - What you propose should work very well. When I refinish plane totes or rifle stocks; I use BLO dunk the totes and stocks until they are completely saturated, wipe off the excess and let it dry overnight - rub it in my hands every once in a while. I may apply more than one coat of BLO before a coat of WATCO (Danish Oil) and hand rub these coats to dryness. If it is a military stock or a tote I want a different feel so I hand rub each with “gunny” paste a 1:1:1 mixture of beeswax, turpentine, and BLO. It’s an old Gunnery Sergeant’ mixture for cleaning and protecting gun stocks. For a more shinny surface I rub in “Tru. Oil” gun stocks finish until I’m happy.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

got to love it when you can dunk the work. much faster!

[@markbreithaupt1187]

Thanks- very helpful!

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

My pleasure. Glad I could help.

[@davidchambers8941]

Good evening James, I'm going to apply three coats of Boiled Linseed oil on a soft wood shelf. Is safe to place stain on top.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

If you want to stain it, put that on first. They boiled linseo oil will lessen or stop the stain from penetrating into the wood.

[@Ivanhoe52]

Another good use of hard wax... Cool! I'm not sure which thinner to use to soften it. And, aren't thinners in store bought paste waxes toxic? I'm a little afraid of them. Especially considering toys.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

It depends on what you call "Toxic" if you are on the California spectrum then I would not use anything you get tin the store, but if you are are at the Florida end then you could drink it. for me the stuff from Johnson or Minmax would be fine for baby toys. just make sure it is sully cured.

[@Ivanhoe52]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thanks. 🙂 I'm in continental Europe. So I managed to get my self a Danish wax which is supposedly safe for toys, and Italian wax that has Hydrocarbons, n-alcanes, isoalkanes,cylyc, and aromatics 2% -(probably a solvent that troubles me). And it protects against worms. Considering bottled solvents, I'm familliar with nitro-solvent, and oil-solvent.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Just be carful of the names. Danish wax and Italian wax are not specific. and they can be wildly different moistures from different companies.

[@Ivanhoe52]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo Yes. I'm sorry about that. I deliberately didn't' stated their brand names, because I'm not sure if I'm allowed to. (with all the regulas and such...) I'm glad to know that also an alcohol can be a solvent for a wax, as I found it out from another of your how-to movies.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

denatured alcohol is one of my favorites. you can also get a solvent made from oranges.

[@rajarajan7645]

Thanks bro

[@parkave2406]

How would it fair if you went over it with a lacquer

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Fine once it is fully cured.

[@mountainviewturning5319]

Great info 👍

[@joenoonan6925]

Should the BLO have time to cure before adding paste wax??

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

I don't. It will cure just fine with the paste wax on.

[@joshuasmith1215]

For something that never gets touched like a bedframe, would this look good for many years without needing to reapply wax?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

this is for the things that get handled all the time when you want to feel the wood. it will need to be regularly re oiled but that only take a second once or twice a year. I would not want it on furniture though.

[@raydeftereos]

Would you recommend BLO as a finish for a workbench? Thanks for the vid

[@ozzy6900]

We put BLO on my son's workbench (that he built) and it looks great. If he scuffs or cuts an area, he simply applies some more BLO and the damage disappears. Just have enough on hand because the end grain really soaks up a ton of BLO.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

yes. that is how I finished mine!

[@tomas5376]

Good info👍✌️😊🙏🏼

[@jimhyslop]

At the 5:35 mark, are you using steel wool on oak? I thought that was a no-no because tiny bits of steel wool can get into the pores and get discoloured?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

To the perfectionist that is a common thought. But to the average person it really doesn't make any functional difference.

[@sandravanrassel6799]

Thanks! I'm enjoying your videos. I had come across a paste wax recipe similar to yours that I used in blacksmithing. Would you use this on your woodworking table? Mine is made of maple. Seems logical but thought ild get your opinion.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

yes. that is actually the final coat for My Bench.

[@mrnigelfoudy]

Hi love your videos, I have Douglas fir beams and truss unfinished in my house And I want to use boiled linseed oil and beeswax, can I use the 2 together as a paint on if I warm the beeswax up. Or should I do linseed coatings first then warm the bees wax and rub it on over it

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

I would do it separately. The oil by itself will soak into the wood better if it's not filled with the wax too.

[@hassanal-mosawi6049]

Thanks for sharing that

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

my pleasure!

[@binershock]

Thanks!

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

my pleasure

[@Mak_ol]

Is it necessary to sand wood before put oil??

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

It is not necessary. Different applications it is very useful especially if you want the green to pop. But if you're working with something like poplar or maple then usually I want to go straight off of the plane as sanding it will make it blochy.

[@toddrand8525]

When applying B.L.O. first coat can you do both top and bottom of wood plus all edges all at once. Then do you have to let sit for 48 hours before second and third coats

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

I coat the wood all the way around and then immediately go back and code it again. I'll continue to do that and tell the wood stops soaking it up. Then I'll wipe off the excess and let it cure and tell it's semi dry to the touch. At that point I'll put on the paste wax. If you want to build up a finish and create a protective coat then you'll let the BLO fully cure. Usually two or three days. And then apply another coat and let that cure. Usually you want to do eight to 10 coats and that matter with two or three days between each coat. That will build up a protective finish. But in my book for most things I would want to protective finish I'm going to put something else on that is far better at it. BLO and paste wax are for a finish where you want the feel of the wood but you don't need a highly protective coating.

[@margaretkrantz1469]

Do you recommend this finish for a leg vise chop or would something more durable be better?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

that is what I use on mine. there is no reason to make it extra durable.

[@ronaldpellettier3473]

How can I achieve a slightly shinier finish with your linseed oil and paste wax?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

These really aren't intended for a gloss finish. If you want that then you need to go with something that provides a film finish. Something like poly or shellac. BLO and paste wax is a very matte finish

[@GeeDeeBird]

Just curious... Are there currently any pure boiled linseed oil products (without solvents) on the market? Thanks for sharing this!

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Yes there are a couple now. I did a video a year or so ago comparing a few of them.

[@careyholman]

Am I right to guess you should do one or two sides of a box at a time? There’s nothing here that will look different between two parts that were done at different times, right?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

there shouldn't be anything different from doing one side or the other side but generally you want to do both at the same time otherwise you'll have one side that can absorb water faster than the other side and that might lead to warping the board.

[@bryanoreilly8954]

Can I put some laquer over the linseed oil?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Yes.

[@njosborne5540]

Great video. I will be applying the store bought Boiled Lindseed Oil to a gun stock. Since you don't recommend using hands, what is the best / safest way to apply it? Thank you

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Just a lent free rag. Just wear gloves.

[@jthadcast]

does anyone know if tung oil could used to make a more durable finish?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Tung oil is almost identical to boiled linseed oil in most all respects. Very similar appearance, drying time, and surface durability. Different people will prefer one over the other for one reason or another. But in the end they're basically the same. That is if you are talking about actual tung oil. Most oils now that are called tung oil are actually made from oil plus other protective finishes and thinners.

[@solanohandy2626]

Hi there, we are working on a deck, we bought untreated wood, we want to use oil stain, but we don't know what steps we should take to protect the wood from the sun and water. Any ideas? Advices? Thanks

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

For that you'll want to use a deck sealer and decking stain. most woodworking finishes won't treat you very well for direct sunlight on pine.

[@jstarr3676]

Would this be good on a yard jenga set

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Sure as long as you keep them out of the rain. It tends to wash off quickly.

[@Ratria1]

Is this the same oil as stand oil that artist use ?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Stand oil is a very broad term. But most of the time it refers to bleached linseed oil. I have a video on making that if you want to see more.

[@madebybobbie]

Thanks for sharing! I'm gonna give the bleaching process a try :) Btw, is the store-bought boiled linseed oil also not foodsave anymore due to the chemical drier in it?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Correct. I would not use store-bought boiled linseed oil for items that would contact food.

[@madebybobbie]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thanks! Good to know :)

[@jamiehowson1343]

Thanks for this! Great video - I am using BLO on a set of live edge black walnut shelves and was going to paste wax for the finish you showed here in the video. Never done this before, but it's coming along nicely.... The shelves are for an office but they're not going to be "high traffic" bookshelves - more ornamental - but I'm still concerned with the end finish and protection due to scratching. Sounds like this combo will be easy to maintain over the years if I do notice any wear, which is why I chose it. That said, however, one other thing comes to mind though: would the BLO/paste wax combo be OK to set books on? After cure and drying of course.... but over time, and if there are changes in temperature of the room, will there be any concerns with any transferral of the wax to the book pages? If so, is there another finish that you would you recommend to put on top of the BLO instead of paste wax?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

It would be no problem at all for books. Once it's cured and hardened it doesn't transfer.

[@jamiehowson1343]

Wood By Wright How 2 Thanks! That’s great to hear.

[@apessimist2365]

Can I use this on a pressure treated shed please !

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

You could but it is not as good for exterior. It would need to be reapplied every 6 months to a year.

[@apessimist2365]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thank you !

[@bloggalot4718]

I recently used BLO on a small pine table and the smell took three weeks to disappear.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Was it actually boiled? That sounds more like raw linseed oil than boiled linseed oil. But some people really don't like the smell of it. I for one find the smell of BLO to be very enjoyable.

[@stephentodd1890]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo I had the same experience-- definitely BLO, bigbox store bought. It's been about two weeks; the smell isn't too heavy, unless i close the door for a while and it builds. Could it be the difference from the industrial store-purchased BLO Vs. your home-made stuff?

[@mikecoughlin4128]

Do you ever use mineral oil instead of BLO? How do they compare?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

it works fine. just understand that mineral oil does not polymerize and so it washes out of the wood far easer and needs to be re finished more often.

[@TheLavanta86]

Very informative video! Just a quick question, if i want to have the same colour (not too shiny or plastic feeling like polyurethane) on a table top which product should i go for?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

I generally use a hard wax finish like Rubio Monacoat: amzn.to/35kkfj5 it is just as protective as poly but looks like a BLO finish. I used it on the recent desk build if you want to see it. And it should be in Saturday's video.

[@Fancy45642]

I have a wooden bench I just purchased from Home Goods and it has been colored or maybe stained a natural tone. I am hoping to keep it in my garden however I live in Florida and right now we are in the rainy season. I love the bench and it was a babulous price so I am hoping to preserve it as long as I can. Help what can I use to seal it from water? Thank you!!

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

For that you would want a marine-grade varnish. Or some other exterior film finish. Such as exterior polyurethane. B l o and paste wax are not very protective finishes They look good and they're good in the hand but they don't have anything to actually protect the wood.

[@Snarkathon]

You said you wouldnt choose this finish for a table-top.. I was looking for a tabletop finish. :)

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

My favorite tabletop finish is Rubio Monacoat. Incredibly easy to apply, very protective, very easy to repair when damaged, and look s absolutely amazing. The only downside is it's expensive. The next cheaper one that I really enjoy is wipe on polyurethane. Still very easy to apply and you can probably do the whole table for around 20 bucks.

[@Snarkathon]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thanks for the quick reply mate. I love the matt of the linseed, was going finish with a wax. You wouldnt recommend that? Its very old reclaimed timber (from a Police Station in Central NSW). Thanks again.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

It will finish the seal and help a bit but it is not very protective. If you like that look then Rubio Monocoat would be what you want. It looks the same, but is protective. It is what I used on my dining room table.

[@Snarkathon]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thanks again for the advice.. :) Peace.

[@Snarkathon]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo You wouldnt believe it, I went into my Dads back shed where all the "chemicals" are & theres 2 litres of "Pale Boiled Linseed Oil". He passed a couple of years ago, Im still cleaning up. :) Thanks again.

[@tomw2581]

Hi, thanks this is really useful. I’ve used blo and paste wax on my project (alcove shelves & built in desk) but the finish still feels a bit waxy & delicate. Is it possible to put a poly over the top or will this ruin the paste wax finish?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

If it's still waxy to the touch then most oil-based polys will have a problem with bonding to it. Usually the paste wax goes on after the poly.

[@blughsr]

I just watch your video.. I am building a dresser with plywood drawers.. What finish do you recommend for inside the drawers..

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

whatever you want. I generally use whatever I sue on the outside. As it is inside it is not seen much.

[@jenkins1979]

Can I just buy and use raw linseed oil and will it give the same results.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

It will but it can take weeks to a month to fully cure.

[@jenkins1979]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo thank you

[@QlueDuPlessis]

So, what's your opinion on off the shelf waxes like dubbin, shoe polish or petroleum jelly? I've used these a lot and find them convenient as they're sold everywhere.

[@jimsorensen5905]

I am a novice woodworker. I recently built an outdoor bench of douglas fir. I live in San Diego where the sun shines most of the time. Would you recommend your captioned process for an outdoor bench, or is there some other finish you would recommend? Thank you!

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

It is not a protective finish and it's something that can get washed out however if you're okay with the maintenance it actually ends up being a fairly good finish You just probably need to reapply once every 6 months or so. there are a few other finishes that will look good for about a year or so but most require maintenance every year to every 2 years unless you go with just a simple wood stain. Such as you would commonly find for decks. Most marine varnishes require reapplication at least once a year.

[@jimsorensen5905]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo thank you James, I appreciate your quick response and videos. Have a safe Memorial Day weekend!

[@thomasulrichs7248]

Does lineed oil have a shelf life?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

If you keep it we'll sealed it is years, but if bacteria gets In it can go bad.

[@scotttalkowski691]

what would you recommend to finish something made out of Baltic Birch Plywood?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

It all depends on what you're going to use it for. If you're making a table or something else that will get beat up then you'll want to use something that's more protective like the polyurethane or a hard wax. But if it is shop tools or other things like that I would generally go with BLO and paste wax

[@jasonruggles]

Where can I get the BLO without the additives. I don't want to make it myself!

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Tried and True "Danish oil" is about as close as you can get. amzn.to/3UrtgRm

[@TWC6724]

So I’m curious. Tried and true original finish says it’s just polymerized linseed oil and beeswax. I thought to “polymerize” it, you have to heat it and add a drier so what do you think they are using in their product? They say it’s all natural.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

You do not have to add a dryer. That just allows you to not heat it as much. You can just heat it with out the dryers to get the same reaction but it has to go a LOT hotter and get close to the flash point. I have a video showing how to make BLO if you want to see that.

[@TWC6724]

Going to watch that. I figure if that’s all that’s in their product maybe I can make it!!

[@seadawg4740]

What would you use for a dining table top that gets lots of use? I use to use a product that allowed me to go over it with steel wool and (Danish)? oil to remove any scratches but I can't find it anymore.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

I use Rubio monocoat. It is easy to apply, has great protection, easy to repair and clean, but the only down side is the price.

[@seadawg4740]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo OK thanks

[@anatoliyefimov4984]

It has been suggested to me that I use boiled linseed oil for a bench I’m building... given folks are going to be sitting on the bench, would you recommend using the linseed oil on the bench?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Generally I don't use boiled linseed oil as a furniture finish as it's not durable. It's great for hand tools and things that you will be regularly holding. But for most furniture tables inches and chairs I like something a little more durable. My current favorite would be Rubio Monacat. It looks almost identical to boiled linseed oil with paste wax but it is durable and will last a long time. Second would be a polyurethane.

[@anatoliyefimov4984]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo thank you for that...

[@danielc6779]

I just used BLO on a hand plane tote and knob I am fixing up. I was also debating using wax or shellac on top to add extra protection against hand sweat and dirt. Would shellac be better? Or would the wax finish be washable? I’m just thinking about keeping the wood from getting stained. Thx!

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

If the plane is regularly used both of them will protect the handle. It really comes down to a preference. Shellac is glossy and feels smooth. Wax fills the pores but you still feel the texture of the wood. Some people like one and some people like the other.

[@danielc6779]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo Wow thanks for the prompt reply....appreciate it!

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Any time!

[@paulwilliams819]

I am building a work bench/assembly table with a birch plywood top. What do you recommend for a finish?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

for me BLO and paste wax. being a place where finish and glue will be applied no finish will stand up to that torture so I would not mess with a protective finish. the nice thing about BLO is it is so easy to reapply and a clean coat of paste wax will keep glue from sticking to the top.

[@paulwilliams819]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo ....thanks for the reply.

[@woodworkerroyer8497]

I love BLO. Easy and fast. Just wish it smelled up the shop less

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Oh I love the smell! so many good memories!

[@woodworkerroyer8497]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo It is WAY better that Johnson's paste wax for sure! Does the home made stuff smell less?

[@gruss5157]

What is the name of the company?Can you share a link or do a video

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Sorry. What company are you asking about?

[@soniacoker5120]

I just found a can of boiled linseed oil that I've probably had over 10yrs in a cabinet. Is it still good? What would I use it for?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

If it is store bought and still liquid then it is still good.

[@apexhunter333]

Hi I am trying to do a finish for my Black Walnut handle knife, is a boiled linseed oil + turpentine a good mix? If yes how many coat should I do.

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

I wouldn't use the turpentine I'd just go with straight boiled linseed oil. The turpentine is just a thinner and it's not really needed with boiled linseed oil as long as you wipe off any excess before it cures. Generally most of my knife handles are boiled in seed oil and then paste wax. usually just keep putting boiled into it on it until the wood stops absorbing it wipe off the excess.

[@apexhunter333]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo thank you for the kind response. Last question do you need to sand it every coat? thanks and Bless you.

[@dlfabrications]

How does boiled linseed oil act on chairs? I mean does it stain clothes ?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Once it's cured and polymerized there's no issue with it at all.

[@billruland1494]

I’m treating a cedar mailbox post. From your answers to previous questions, it sounds like BLO is not the right finish. What should I use?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Exterior finishes are something that is wildly different. There really is no once and done exterior finish it really depends on the look you're wanting. usually you would want to go with a penetrating epoxy and a varnish but even then you're going to want to be redoing that every year.

[@billruland1494]

Wood By Wright How 2 Great. Thanks for the advice. Also, I have been using BLO on the wood handles of my garden tools. Works great.

[@BCDanno63]

Will the process work on newly stained wood ...???? Would it accent the English Chestnut stain color or dilute it..I’m awating a new unfinished shelved table for a collectible display so it won’t get any wear and tear ... I’ll be able to finish all the components prior to assembly

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Sure. You'll probably want to test it on a scrap piece usually an oil finish will darken the color just a little bit.

[@BCDanno63]

Wood By Wright How 2 Perfect I won’t have scrap but I’ll try it on the unseen reverse of the Bottom shelf... Thank you for the speedy reply...

[@kandycampbell931]

I have an heirloom bedroom set (red oak) that needs to be moisturized/conditioned. Is the Sunnyside linseed oil good to use?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Yes that would be great for it. I re oil my furniture once a year or so.

[@kandycampbell931]

Wood By Wright How 2 my apologies...but that’s the boiled linseed correct?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

Yes. I would use gloves with that stuff as it has drying agents to help it cure quickly. But it works the same way. That company uses both raw and boiled linseed oil so just check first. Boiled will cure over night and raw will take a week or more.

[@kle2217]

Could I mix some wood stain color into the linseed oil to help enhance the hue further?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

sure. most people stain the wood the coler they want then apply oil, but as long as the stain is oil based it can mix together.

[@tomfreebern2556]

Will BLO cause plywood to delaminate?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

no. it works fine with the glue there. as long as you do not mix it with thinners.

[@elliejamison5884]

Can I put polyurethane on after I've but oil on ?

[@WoodByWrightHowTo]

If it is oil based. Sure!

[@elliejamison5884]

@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thank you so much for your reply. I really appreciate your time and attention.