How to Apply Brake Lubrication for CALIPER and DRUM Brake Systems

[@TutorialGenius]

Like and subscribe for more! All parts, tools and more information in the video description. If this video helped you, please support the channel by clicking "Thanks"! We also have memberships to our channel with great perks! kzbin.info/door/0HkS2-1Tk1ULQJj3uGbjdwjoin Thanks for watching!

[@kellymeade4587]

A Great and very informative video. I just got through doing this to my 2007 Mustang. I do all of my own mechanical work, my Dad…taught me how to save money Working on cars…helping him before I could even drive! You’re saving a lot of people… big $$$ by doing this. People just need to make sure not to over-lube the slide pins, it can create a trapped air pocket… at the end of the slide-pin bores. I just twist and turn them …and slide them out and in…after I cleaned the internal bore’s….with the new lubed pins….Before installing the boots, just like you did! I just replaced my slider boots..with the new rubber boots ..very cheap at AutoZone, O’Reilly’s, or Advance in the USA. New slide pins are very reasonable at any of the stores mentioned ⬆️….if they’re worn. An Awesome Video , for people that have never worked on cars and brakes!👏💯🇺🇸

[@andrewclack4881]

so much info and very well explained

[@TutorialGenius]

You're welcome! I'm glad it was helpful! :)

[@brianm8342]

Did brakes last year and recently began binding when put car in reverse. Used the wrong grease on the pins. Thanks for detailed explanation of which grease to use and not use.

[@TutorialGenius]

No problem! I'm glad it helped!

[@Sagemeister007]

Thank you! I enjoyed your thorough analysis of product reviews and repair displays.

[@TutorialGenius]

Thanks for watching! Im glad it was useful! :)

[@trueaussieray9093]

Had to look at a few videos to find the fix to the problem about squealing brakes, you explained it awesomely thanks mate

[@TutorialGenius]

That's great to hear! I'm glad it was useful! :)

[@hsttrek1]

90% of the cars in our shop (Ohio) require a brake job. Of those ~ 75% have uneven or seized brake pads. The #1 cause, ~50% is due to rust between the caliper bracket & shim because the brackets are made of cast iron, we see little to no rust on the pad ears (painted steel). Consequently we apply grease between the shim & bracket only & replace shims 100% to stop / slow the rust.

[@luciusael]

The rust between the bracket and the shim is the most annoying part for me in the brake cleaning procedure. To clean it optimally, I have to remove the bracket, which is a strenuous experience if you're doing it on jack stands in your own garage.

[@joeyoungs8426]

Agreed, I’ve always used Sil-Glyde to protect that part of the bracket and of course the pins. Definitely makes a big difference in the longevity of a brake job.

[@olenaerhardt7725]

@ 26:50 Pls don't forget to release the Parking Brake. 1st time I tried to remove that drum I forgot (or didn't think about it) and was fighting w/that drum, fortunately didn't brake anything on the way. Special thanks to show how to lubricate the drum brakes without disassembling them. This time I've just cleaned them w/brake parts cleaner, rugs, adjusted the wheel on the adjuster a bit and that is all, since Scotty Kilmer said no need to lubricate the drum brakes, since that surface is closed, and the lube is still there, just clean outside. next time I'm in that area I'll follow you advice.

[@TutorialGenius]

I think everybody starting out has the drum brake/hand brake moment haha! Scotty Kilmer is great entertainment, but sometimes he says some bizarre things!

[@iggyppup]

Top notch vid. in subject & delivery! Well done! Do more vids!

[@TutorialGenius]

Thanks so much, will do!

[@jessievert]

Great break down & understanding of the operation/function of each components. One thing I would say as far as lubricating the drum brakes is that the actuator adjuster has a lubricating point that need lubricant as well. The new oem part should come with a paper that shows where to lubricate plus the manuals to the vehicle should/does in my case, but like you said every vehicle may be a little different but most usually have the part that hooks up to the upper spring as too in your case. Other then that overlook, great video

[@TutorialGenius]

I'm glad the video was useful! and yes, you are correct in saying that some vehicles may have an actuator adjuster that requires lubrication! Thanks for watching

[@ukredman]

This is an excellent video. Thanks for taking the time to post!

[@TutorialGenius]

Glad it was helpful!! You're welcome! :)

[@adaboy4z]

Excellent video!! Should have a million views!!

[@TutorialGenius]

I'm glad you enjoyed it! :)

[@johnlong1100]

Nicely done mate.

[@TutorialGenius]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@jacquesviau6165]

Good morning I wish to thank you for taken the time to prepare this video which was very useful to me. I do have a question for tou though can i use it to grease sway bar links and bushings? Ty

[@TutorialGenius]

You're welcome! For bushings and things like that, you would like a grease gun and a tube of grease. The bushing would need a nipple, otherwise known as a zerk fitting, so you can attach your grease gun to it. Usually the more expensive parts have zerk fittings, but not always. It looks something like this: www.amazon.ca/Fixsmith-Cartridge-Professional-Reinforced-Extension/dp/B076M14YN6

[@jacquesviau6165]

@@TutorialGenius cheers

[@olenaerhardt7725]

I've seen Chris Fix film on brake job, where he used Permatex Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant (#09128). I've always used it for my brakes and thought it is the best product to use for brake lubrication. May I know your opinion on that lubricant? Maybe it is very good for Hubs applications before you put the disc on, but still for brakes themselves better to use smth like Permatex Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant (actually I have it as well). And another thing about WD-40 around the brakes. When I clean the discs, sometimes you put them on later, so to prevent from rusting cleaned already disc I apply BP Blust Rust Remover (I think it is similar to WD-40 oil). Before the installation I clean the disc circle area, which touches the brake pad w/Brake Parts Cleaner of course, how we normally do before the installation of a new disc (since it comes lubricated w/some oil not to get rusted). So is it O'K to use PB Blust or WD-40 in this manner, or it is better to apply other oil (I don't know what they put on new discs) since it is area of brakes? Thank you for the great and informative film.

[@TutorialGenius]

I stand by everything I said in the video with regards to Antiseize (Even if it has copper or can withstand excessive temperatures)... The reason it can handle temperatures is probably because you can use it on things like spark plug threads etc. It's a great product, but for moving parts, no way! The same applies for WD40 and the like. I'm not really sure how to offer more information on this, other than what I stated in the video already, but WD40 should never be used anywhere near break discs. It would reduce the friction and kinda render it unsafe and dangerous. The oil-like substance on some car parts is from the manufacturer process and will have a different chemical composition than something like WD-40. I have to ask though: Why are you cleaning brake discs? When the car brakes, the pads naturally 'clean it' due to friction. Has the car been sitting?

[@olenaerhardt7725]

@@TutorialGenius Thank you for a quick and detailed replay. Yes, we don't drive much, and I was working on smth else on that car. So it was sitting. But the main reason I clean the discs, bcs it is so easy w/vinegar. It cleans not only the working surface (which is not really rusted), but also all the surfaces inside, which carry some rust. I recall I did same thing on another our car (2001 Saturn SL2). If you thoroughly clean the working surface ..., there were no problems so far. You need to apply smth inside to prevent that rust developing. But definitely I would prefer to use same oil they (manufacturers) put on new discs. I'll do some more research on this. Till so far I found only "To prevent rusting on new brake discs, manufacturers apply a dry film lubricant that contains either graphite or molybdenum disulfide ". But what it is exactly? I have e.g. WD-40 dry film lubricant for tools. Anyway I spray and clean, spray and clean till see the clean paper towel, so whatever it was applied everything is removed from the working surface. I don't clean the lubricated inner surfaces (still rust is forming, but less I guess). Again of course it would be better to apply the oil, which is most close to the one applied by manufacturers. About that Copper Anti-Seize, thank you for the confirmation. Yes, absolutely new brakes I installed started to make noise like after 1 year or so, now I see why. Thank you again.

[@xtsh123]

Excellent video toque me a will to find te solution tanks to your video my car stop making brake noise 😁

[@bobgreene2892]

(At 22:54) TutorialGenius sprays brake parts cleaner with bare, unprotected hands. Cleaning chemicals will work well on the part, but not on his bare skin. Human skin absorbs an amazing variety of chemicals, and no one needs these circulating in his body. Concern about chlorinated compounds led to reformulation of brake parts cleaners by all brands, only a few years ago. Similar caution suggests wearing some kind of solvent-resistant glove.

[@TutorialGenius]

Being absorbed into skin is a common thing that gets blown wayyy out of proportion and its usually people regurgitating the same information amongst themselves with little no no research in the matter. I'm glad you brought it up.... Is kind of like saying: "You should never smoke a cigarette, you will get lung cancer". Sure, yes, you have a point, kinda! Pulling up the Safety Data Sheet (SDS) on Brakleen for example, the toxicology information states: "Prolonged skin contact may cause temporary irritation.". It also gives you the various animals they tested the product on, its quite detailed and worth a read. You could go on to say that people who use acetone-based nail polish on their nails get acetone absorbed into their skin.... and my grandpa who is 95 now re-fills his lighter weekly gets lighter fluid absorbed into his skin now has a weekend immune system etc. It brings me back to my original point about smoking. If you want to pay for and wear a box of single-use gloves, go ahead! For an odd-job, I probably wouldn't. If you're mechanic or you do this daily, you probably already have boxes of single-use gloves.

[@bobgreene2892]

@@TutorialGenius Thank you for your response. However, I did not claim that a given exposure will produce a given disease incidence. Toxicology reports on harmful risk, based on field and experimental data, and the process of systematically reducing that risk. For you and most readers, the message is simple-- do not invite risk, where possible. Among brake cleaners, for example, are compounds known to be hazardous, including benzene, toluene, and methanol. Your risk may vary, depending on your circumstances, but there is risk. Your comment about a 95-year-old tobacco-smoking grandfather and his hazardous habit reminds many of the obvious response-- just think how long he might live without his smoking hazard. When tobacco smoke was identified as a carcinogen, industry flaks issued smokescreens of denial, trying to use the same argument, essentially "the dose is the poison".

[@TutorialGenius]

For anybody out there, the message is simple-- If you want to pay for and wear a box of single-use gloves, go ahead! For an odd-job, I probably wouldn't. It's all down to: choice, necessity, need, budget, time etc etc. There is no scenario which ticks all the boxes here so i'm not going to strive to find one. Thanks for watching!@@bobgreene2892

[@juniorlopez6761]

Thank you very much. I really appreciate your video. It helped out a lot. Your awesome 👍💥

[@TutorialGenius]

Glad it helped! 😊💯

[@vicpetrishak7705]

Silicone paste is Dielectric grease . There is a Silicone paste with ceramic added .

[@TutorialGenius]

This is not true

[@vicpetrishak7705]

@@TutorialGenius Manufactures place thickeners in the grease converting into a paste .

[@zingo2664]

very good video 10/10

[@TutorialGenius]

Thanks for watching! I'm glad it was useful!

[@zingo2664]

@@TutorialGenius your video was essential 😄

[@Btu555]

What do you recommend to clean the rust rotor?

[@TutorialGenius]

Your brake pads will naturally clean that as you brake. It's only surface rust

[@donaldhollingsworth3875]

Can the Mission brand be put onto the brake piston boots?

[@TutorialGenius]

The mission silicone paste will be fine with boots! I believe I already mentioned this in the video though!

[@donaldhollingsworth3875]

Thank you for your information. I really do appreciate it.@@TutorialGenius

[@Hardenth50]

hello and hi could you please tell me what is the torque spec on all the bolts from front to rear on honda hrv 2020 thanks alot

[@TutorialGenius]

I dont own a honda hrv 2020, but it would be in the service manual

[@Hardenth50]

i read all the manuals included was not there darn tank athough

[@jacquesviau6165]

Thanks!

[@TutorialGenius]

Thank you for supporting the channel. That's awesome! I responded to your other question regarding sway bar links and bushings in the other thread

[@SetAside777]

What is your accent mate? South African?

[@TutorialGenius]

It's from the UK, but people from the UK people think I'm from somewhere else haha!

[@infinitepawer]

I wonder if bearing grease will work for the job.

[@TutorialGenius]

I think that's bad medicine. It will break down pretty fast

[@dannytrinh07]

High-temp Brake grease would be a perfect choice as well.

[@davidrice3337]

get to the point - enough about the lube - good grief

[@TutorialGenius]

That's what she said

[@bobdole362]

how often should this be done mate?

[@TutorialGenius]

It should be done once a year or 10K miles, or so.... But not many people do this at all. I guess should do and do are two different things! haha! It depends where you live. I would definitely recommended sooner rather than later in a harsh environment.