How to Best Finish your Blades on Work Sharp Elite Sharpener (70g BESS on Work Sharp Blade Grinder)

Background:
I've never been satisfied by the sharpening results from an electric belt system. Because of that, I've done a lot of experimentation to discover why and how to increase the sharpness and bite in the final edge while ensuring a totally burr free edge. The method used in this video was mostly developed on German stainless knives but has also been effectively employed on LC200N and CTS-BD1N as shown.
Goal:
As sharp a knife as possible that is 100% burr free and has adequate bite to slice tomatoes and peppers easily.
Steels to Use:
Generally speaking this will be best for any stainless non-powder metallurgy steel. So German cutlery steels like X50CrMoV15 or Japanese steels like VG-10 and AUS-10. Possibly SG2 but difficult to say as I have not tested it yet.
Setup:
Blade grinder with pulley wheels in closest position and belt tension nearly maxed out. Stiff belt kit from Work Sharp and the 12,000grit micromesh.
Progression on Lowest Belt Speed:
1) X65 - Form burr on each side. Don't alternate each pass
2) X22 - 3 to 5 passes per side not alternating
3) X22 - 3 passes per side alternating
4) X5 - 6 to 10 passes alternating sides.
5) Pull through soft wood 2-3 times with moderate pressure
6) X5 - 2 to 3 passes per side alternating
7) 12,000 - Lower angle by 1degree. 2 to 3 passes per side alternating. Check edge after each pair of passes.

[@jhebertutube]

If the stiffer belts are not sufficient, you can place a behind-the-belt “spacer” on the vertical face of the Ken Onion to provide a firmer surface against which to press the blade edge. This face is the one facing the camera in your video. I stuck a piece of Teflon tape to a piece of notepad card stock, to reduce friction. Work Sharp suggests using a couple stick-on leather strips from one of their other portable sharpening products, but I had the tape handy. It’s a change to your sharpening style, but might be worth checking out. Congratulations on the sub 100 edge!

[@EngineersPerspective701]

I actually have the strops there just like you said! I did it more for putting 90 degree spines on knives. Losing the angle control works personally be a major reduction in my interest for the system. That’s the key feature for me at least!

[@deplorabledave1048]

I just watched that video put out by workshop. I ordered the stiff belt kit. I'll be moving my pulley closer. What is your source for your Teflon tape? I like that idea better than their solution.

[@robertdewalt8711]

Thank you for your suggestions and video. Instead of cutting blade into soft wood I used 12” paddle strop leather side with green compound to remove burr. I finished on the 12,000 belt, I set angle about 1/2 degree lower than grind angle. I have 2 Ken Onion systems, one was elite and other was Ken onion Knife & tool sharpener which I then purchased blade grinding system for to turn my knife & tool sharpener into elite system. Reason was I owned my Ken onion knife & tool sharpener prior to the Elite system becoming available. Reason I got elite system as well was so that I don’t over heat motor when sharpening many knives. I sharpened paring knife using your method and got BESS C of 179 g. My target range I want to reach was 200g to 300g, BESS C before sharpening was 439 g.

[@EngineersPerspective701]

Appreciate the feedback and glad you're seeing good results! I think a guy could find an ideal angle change and number of strokes on the 12,000 grit depending on the specific knife (steel/heat treat) to really hone in the results. The last steps are a "less is more" situation because too much work on the 12K can take away bite and generate a new extremely fine, foil burr that is detrimental for edge retention.

[@robertdewalt8711]

@@EngineersPerspective701 . Using the same technique on 9 of my mothers knives I got final BESS C ranging from 87g to 263 g was highest. The good cook paring knives got 87g, 91g, 96, 107 g, Zwilling paring knife got 101 g, Miyabyi 4000FC got 212g, Miyabi chef 229 g, Zwilling 8” chef got 252 g, Miyabi 9&1/2 “ got 263 g. For each of the 9 knives I took two readings and averaged if they were close, if readings too far apart I took highest one.

[@EngineersPerspective701]

Very nice results!! On the miyabis, try to continue reducing the angle of the 12K even to the point you don’t think it’s touching and see what happens. Start at lowering by 3-5degrees and do a couple strokes and test. Then increase by a half degree and repeat. Keep going and see what happens. May find an improvement there. I think the belt is hitting the apex too much on the harder higher end steel which prefers a little more casual stropping I’d think.

[@BennyCFD]

You're almost free handing the angle lifting the knife from the guide to the belt, and to say you can hold the knife to 1/2 a degree is dreaming........................

[@shawnlavigne9069]

I've been experimenting a lot lately between the x4 the 12000 and the cloth belt with green compound. And removing the burr with cork wood. Almost hair popping, but not quite. The KME 1500 diamond is still King for me.

[@EngineersPerspective701]

Haven’t messed with it for a long time now but I’ve gone away from the cloth belts for the most part. The drop in aggression I get after the X4 or 12K to the strop is too much for my interests usually and it always seems to generate a foil burr. Stones always are king!!

[@TrustinChrist-truthseeker]

So what sort of BESS score is paper towel cutting sharp with a nice clean cut? I have the Worksharp Ken Onion edition with the Blade Grinding attachment, Leather belt and other belts from Red Label abrasives, though main ones I use are the Stiff belts, and I have now sharpened 2 separate knives in around 15 min for both knives and got them Hair popping sharp, and paper towels are fun to cut too! Just a very clean SHWING as it goes through and a very nice clean cut going all the way through lengthwise! I do use a piece of wood to take off the burr after my leather belt with blue compound from Red label abrasives, and then just lightly run it over the belt again. Main thing seems to be getting a good apex, then proper deburring, then that final step of making sure everything is lined up. I don't have a BESS machine or a microscope, but I have cut up sone stuff with the knives and they just as sharp as before. They also both shave with a very light pass on the arm. The knives used was Foxell knives Lynx series chef knife which has much better build quality, fit and finish, blade geometry, than more expensive knives I have found. The other one sharpened was Dakstrong's Spartan Ghost Series 8" chef knife. Another one I didn't sharpen but is a really nice knife is Vosteeds Stallion series 8" chef knife which feels more like a good custom knife than a stanard production knife and came with an edge that easily and cleanly slices paper towels and shaves arm hair even after use as well as a very well done primary bevels which get nice and thin behind the edge. Anyway as said, I am interested in what that BESS score might look like! Thanks in advance! I hope this helps, and feel free to ask questions. These knives I bought with my own money, and these are my observations from my use and close inspection of them. I also have no affilliations with them other than conversations with Dalstrong's customer sevice and Foxell knives cofounder John, both of which I had reached out to after making my observations and using them. Both have provided great service, and John is a genuinely friendly and open guy who is fun to talk too and is transparent on what goes into Foxells knives! Sincerely, JS

[@shawnlavigne9069]

Second time watching this, under 100. WOW!

[@EngineersPerspective701]

Hope it’s somewhat informative!

[@farisal-salihi3780]

Great videos. I would be grateful if you can tell me what angle do I set the worksharp when sharpening the Artifex II.

[@EngineersPerspective701]

Honestly don’t remember what the factory angle was but I personally sharpen it between 14-16 degrees. Sharpie the edge. Do one pass at 16degrees. If the sharpie comes off near the edge apex go to 15 and repeat, keep lowering until the sharpie comes off the whole edge and stay there. If the sharpie comes off at the upper shoulder then rebevel the whole edge to 16. It may take a little while.

[@williamhenderson5834]

Iv had a lot of luck with bite going from x65 to the white belt and alternate strokes a few time then I have a leather belt aftermarket with bark river compound Iv got sharper edges with other methods but loose bite where it don’t feel sharp but cuts really clean but with the method I use it feels very aggressive still

[@EngineersPerspective701]

I haven’t messed with the big grit jumps in a long time but I should come back to it! The tricky part with system is just like you said. It’s always a trade off of ideal bite vs. ideal sharpness. But this particular one came out prime!

[@torfinnjohnsrud793]

If I were to recommend one system, it would be the sharpmaker with both an extra course and fine DMT 6" benchstones. The worksharp precision adjust elite would be a very close second for blades under 6" and people with sharpening ocd. But the sharpmaker gives me lots of flexibility with the benchstone. I also have the full set of Spyderco ceramics but I tend to stick to the sharpmaker once things are profiled because it is quick and easy.

[@EngineersPerspective701]

Sharpmaker is super quick and low effort! Personally I’d have to go for some fixed angle system if I had to have one like the edge pro probably! But I’d rather have no system and just a set of stones!

[@torfinnjohnsrud793]

@@EngineersPerspective701 You're objectively right, and that's exactly what I did. I bought 8x3 DMT XC, C, F, and Spyderco M, F, and lastly EF for my straight razor. Actually the 8x3 EF Spyderco was the first stone I purchased by over a year because I wanted it for my straight razors and I had a Dan's "tri hone" thing for knives, which I sucked at. I concluded that without extensive practice, freehand would be difficult and incomsistent. So I bought the sharpmaker and by leaning my DMT stones it's easy enough to reprofile (although it still took me over an hour to reprofile my CRKT ripple to 15dps and progress from there.) I also highly recommend Congress Tools moldmaster "files" leaned against the sharpmaker. For some who doesn't want/need benchstones, the moldmaster has every grit needed to progress to the sharpmaker and you can lean them against the rods easily. They cost roughly $3 per stone so a sharpmaker set might cost $20-30. But by then you're encroaching on worksharp's offerings so it's a decision to be made. But we all know that if you are a knife enthusiast you will end up spending hundreds on sharpening gear... 🙄

[@jamesbarisitz4794]

For my stainless kitchen knives I am happy with a 600/1000 water stone stropped on leather with green chromium dioxide. Lots of bite and pretty fine at the same time. I go higher on my Japanese Agomi Blue blades. Usually drift up to a 6000 Shapton ceramic water stone then .5 micron diamond paste on kangaroo leather on a black granite block.

[@EngineersPerspective701]

I really enjoy a 1K edge on SG2 and German steel as well. Nanohone 1K has been my go to go that. I’ve been adding in the chosera 3K here and there and almost always have liked the results so I’m starting to move in that direction overall.

[@dimmacommunication]

Love it too, I use green too. I tought back in the days shapening with 1k was just lazy , but then I understood the importance of bite.

[@shawnlavigne9069]

Thanks for this technique, I use styrofoam to try and draw off the burr, but I think wood is better. Wow, 105 - 110 is pretty good. I bought the fabric belts with compound, these seem to get rid of the burr for me.

[@EngineersPerspective701]

I was super happy with that off this system! I’m working with my thoughts on the cloth belts but I believe they are drawing out a very very fine foil burr. After using the belts try cutting thick leather or other task. If the sharpness goes down significant then the apex probably isn’t totally clean.

[@BennyCFD]

Just use the strop belt.......More than sufficient to take care of the burr.

[@deplorabledave1048]

Which model sharpness tester do you have? What accessories are necessary to buy with it? Wow!@@ sub 100!!!. I am getting the elite Ken onion system and stiff belts kit as well. In for Penny, in for a pound. I probably should get a sharpness tester....but they are not cheap

[@EngineersPerspective701]

It's the Edge-On-Up PT50B model. I would recommend getting a hang of your sharpening system before dropping the cash on a tester. Cut phonebook paper, do the Carter 3-finger test, see how the edge lasts during normal use

[@jesseadams45]

Are you using the first or second pulley position? Since you're trying for less convex do the closer V edge position if you aren't already.

[@EngineersPerspective701]

The close position. I also tightened the rod the tracking wheel is on. It makes the tracking a bit squirrelly but I feel like it helps with the V grind! Honestly the biggest thing is using light pressure even with these going on

[@andreasjonsson8075]

Buy two leather strops and load them with different diamond emulsion. Very light pressure and low angle.🤘

[@EngineersPerspective701]

For sure a great way to go! This was showing how to do it using only the machine.

[@JimzAuto]

0:55 can you describe how you clamp the sharpener to the bench? Sounds like a good idea :)

[@EngineersPerspective701]

With the grinder attachment there is a little tab/shelf to clamp it down

[@torfinnjohnsrud793]

I've used the ken onion version and I think it is an effective product, but I don't like the difference in belt direction versus edge. Perhaps it's just me. On the left side it is essentially edge leading, and on the right side it is edge trailing. I have gotten exquisite results with my sharpmaker and DMT extra coarse, coarse, and fine reprofiling bench stones that I lean against the sharpmaker rods. Off the Spyderco fine and a strop I get hair popping but not hair whittling results. I have the extra fine 3 inch benchstone to hone my straight razors before stropping though. It's been enough for me so far.

[@EngineersPerspective701]

It's been a long time since I used the standard cassette on the ken onion but I don't recall seeing much of a difference between sides but I haven't experimented much with it. I'd suspect the edge leading side would be best to finish on though. I always get great results off the sharpmaker too! I only use for specific applications these days but I generally will back bevel with the ken onion blade grinder or by hand, then just use the rods. I'll finish on any of the M/F/UF rods depending on what I'm looking for.

[@seanismboi]

Looks like you are using the desk attachment for the ken onion. Have you tried the other attachment

[@EngineersPerspective701]

I’ve used the original worksharp extensively and the Ken onion standard attachment just a little. The upgrade is well worth it and far superior

[@TrustinChrist-truthseeker]

​@@EngineersPerspective701it isn't even funny what the difference is, and especially using the stiff belts versus the standard ones! Red Label makes some good belts too! I wouldn't get Worksharps cloth stropping belt though. The leather belt from Red Label Abrasives seems to do a much better job and puts less strain on the machine. Sincerely, JS

[@birdman8480]

When you say lower the angle by 1 degree are you saying that if I have sharpened at 20, I should move it to 21?

[@EngineersPerspective701]

Reverse. If you’re at 20 then go to 19. The last belt has more flex so it will still hit the apex

[@deplorabledave1048]

Some of the best edges have ever experienced were achieved using plain paper medium as the last stropping step.

[@EngineersPerspective701]

Very interesting!

[@jeffhicks8428]

@@EngineersPerspective701 the substrate really doesnt matter as much as many folks would assume. The actual abrasive and how it interacts with that substrate is more relevant. paper as a substrate is very easy to load, and very easy to affix to a backing which has as much or little compression as you desire. The issue it's obliviously a one time thing, and when you're using something like diamond powder, much less cbn, this doesn't make a lot of sense. Something like wood, wood like birch or bass, makes a lot more sense. You load the substrate with diamond abrasive that is carried in usually oil for wood, but you can use others, once loaded the abrasive tends to outlast the wood substrate.. I've seen your ratty paint sticks. That's the right idea. But eventually some folks get comfortable and proficient enough on stones to basically abandon any practical need for an additional step. imo anyone that drills freehand for a few months should easily be able to get whatever edge they want, blowing through free hanging bounty towels or popping free hanging hairs on contact straight off your finishing stone. I don't think a knife needs to be any sharper.

[@EngineersPerspective701]

@@jeffhicks8428 agreed with not needing strops or like. But with questionable heat treats, geometry and general laziness I usually find the strop to be a preferred finishing method.

[@dimmacommunication]

CTS-BD1N is basically the American 14c28n cousin ?

[@EngineersPerspective701]

I don’t think so. It was a modification of CTS-BD1 which was a copy of Hitachi Ginsan 1 I believe. They essentially wanted it harder and more stainless so they upped the carbon slightly but added nitrogen as well for the hardness. More Cr and moly for the stainless factor. A really interesting change was that BD1 had a .1%Vanadium for grain refinement but BD1N does not! Doesn’t seem to matter with these nitrogen added steels that don’t have grains blow up nearly as easily.

[@dimmacommunication]

Isn't there a risk to heat the steel with the Worksharp?

[@EngineersPerspective701]

Yes and no from what I’ve found. Yes it’s possible but 1) they’ve done a great job with the overall design to minimize it 2) if one is conscious of what they’re doing there shouldn’t be a major problem. However if a guy grinds away like crazy you better believe that thing will heat up! I think the total effects of the heat up phenomenon are going to be steel specific but one S30V the difference in a KME edge vs the Worksharp in rope cutting was statistically insignificant with a P-value of =.15

[@JimzAuto]

‘Work sharp’ recommends moving blade 1 inch/sec, probably not enough time for heat to build up. If your blade is getting that hot hopefully the operator would ‘feel the heat’ and back off.

[@MrAlexH1991]

You can really only get rid of a burr by stropping the apex of the edge. A leather strop soaked with some good small micron stropping compound will knock that burr off and leave you with a seriously sharp edge that also holds up better and longer to use - because when burrs are left on, and the blade is used, the fine metal protrusions of the burr get smushed and mushroom themselves against the edge of the blade, making it “go dull” faster. Really, the step of sharpening that *actually* sharpens a blade (and makes the edge more durable and wear resistant) is the stropping. Not the grinding - which, in essence, is really just the step in the process that *RESHAPES* the edge via applied pressure and friction with the abrasives (be they whetstones, a low-speed belt sander like this sharpener, whatever.) And you will ****absolutely never**** get rid of the burr by just upping the grainage of the abrasives. Applied pressure and friction with abrasives are going to produce a burr ****every. single. time.**** There will always be a burr after applying pressure and friction with abrasive materials to the apex of a fine point in any metal. The burr will just get smaller and finer as you go up in grain of abrasives.

[@EngineersPerspective701]

Stropping for sure adds that last level of cleanliness, keenness and increases strength. However, you can get burr free on a stone and would not at all say that stropping is what actually sharpens a blade at all. It will refine an already sharpened apex. Burr removal on a stone is a lot more to do with technique than grit size. Better stones, better heat treat, etc. will make this MUCH easier or more difficult but it really is just skill.

[@abelmonters1]

Con todos mis respetos, creo que te falta mas practica con la Ken Onion.

[@vinnym5095]

Where can I buy that 12k belt?

[@EngineersPerspective701]

www.worksharptools.com/shop/abrasives-accessories/abrasives/abrasives-bga/

[@vinnym5095]

Just ordered it 👍. Two questions, is there a reason to sharpen at slower speed compared to the fast speed? And on the 12k belt, why do you sharpen 1 degree lower? So if I sharpen at 17degrees I need to go to 16 or 18?

[@EngineersPerspective701]

@@vinnym5095 slower is better here. Just take your time to avoid making big mistakes fast but also heat build up. Even if the blade itself feels cool, the super small area of the actual edge heats up and lowers performance. If you’re at 17dps for the other belts then use the 12K at 16dps. Your mileage may vary but that’s how I like it. I do because it’s more flexible that the other belts so it generally still hits the apex of the edge without rounding it over excessively

[@vinnym5095]

@@EngineersPerspective701 what’s the best way to sharpen a bread knife on the Ken onion belt sharpener? They say to use the purple 6000 grit and just hit the back side of the knife but when I test it on my Bess scale I don’t see any improvement

[@EngineersPerspective701]

@@vinnym5095 not sure. Haven’t really tried it. I’ve used my sharpmaker with good enough results but that has drawbacks too.

[@Wildcard258]

Don’t you need a weight to put consistent tension on the test filament before locking it in place?

[@EngineersPerspective701]

Ideally yes. I have a technique for pulling tension on it fairly consistently. I also test the tension by pressing on it to confirm. Not perfect but damn close I think

[@bas4241]

You might get better results if you standardize the tension on your test line…

[@EngineersPerspective701]

One day I’ll get a clip with a weight but I do have a method for somewhat repeatable tension. Usually I can get less than 5% variance testing a single spot

[@brianfoster7064]

Might consider diamond emulsion instead of chromium oxide. It doesn't load the material and lasts.

[@EngineersPerspective701]

I do now have a couple with diamond but haven’t spent enough time messing around with them compared to green compound.

[@adanma17]

Oof my soul when you turn it on lol

[@EngineersPerspective701]

For science!

[@adanma17]

@@EngineersPerspective701 I love science too lol

[@8360365]

You were using your pants as a strop... both time you stropped on your pants you got better results

[@EngineersPerspective701]

Good observation! Since this video I have incorporated stropping on a clean dish towel to clean up the burr. Definitely works for getting rid of a foil burr but requires a little refinement after for best results

[@vancamjr]

You’re there already, improving on this requires strop or hone to micro align the edge.

[@EngineersPerspective701]

The point of the video is how to use the ken onion to get the best performing edge. My understanding is that stropping doesn't "micro align" so much as just reduce the apex width and generally cause a slight amount of micro convexing right at the apex. Science of sharp has some good articles around it

[@billmanning8806]

I too use the Blade Grinder to sharpen kitchen knives. Usually I want a toothy edge without any burr, an edge that might win an award at cutting a tomato. I've experimented a lot with burr removal. I have found the burr remains regardless of the progression with abrasive belts. It is my guess that this is the result of the 'edge trailing' belt direction, which bends the burr right-left-right-left over and over but does not eliminate the burr unless you make many many passes. Meanwhile, attempting burr removal with a fine abrasive belt, you are eliminating the toothy edge that you might desire, and still retaining the burr. Hmmm. For a toothy edge, but one without a burr, my current strategy is this. Coarse grind if you need to with, say, 80 or 120 grit equivalent. Raise the burr along the entire edge. Then I move to a 400 grit belt. (I think 600 or 800 might also work well. One could also add another belt grit in between if desired, say maybe a 220.) Alternating passes on the 400 grit refines the edge, still leaving it toothy, but will not eliminate the burr. To begin eliminating the burr without polishing the edge too much, I lightly pass the knife edge through some thick leather, tip to heel and heel to tip. (Left behind on the leather I can see metal flakes that had been part of the burr, confirming this is at least partially eliminating the burr.) To finish eliminating the burr without over polishing the edge, using the Work Sharp Blade Grinder, I do alternating passes on either the leather belt with white compound or the pair of cloth belts using the red and green compounds. Just a few passes, though, because I don't want to eliminate the toothy edge. The result is both toothy and without burr, just what I want. I will continue to experiment with all this, refining as I go. Would value your thoughts.

[@grovesy333]

You can’t be sharp without removing the burr it’s not been that way for me

[@billydodd8457]

why don't you just strop it?

[@EngineersPerspective701]

Stropping after this machine gives overly polished edges that don’t work well. Low score and spice paper but won’t break tomato skin sort of situation

[@redfish-vg9dj]

Well, that was a waste of my time, you can go all the way down to a leather stropping belt, and get a knife shaving sharp on the Ken onion, in minutes. This looked like you were literally TRYING, to make it look hard, and make the the machine less capable than what it is, you can't even be serious with this crap. WOW, FIRST TIME EVER FOLKS!? You can get those scores EASILY, in minutes on that machine, EVERY time, on every blade, I keep a hanging strop to finish on some blades, but you have to be trying, to make it seem hard like you just did.

[@EngineersPerspective701]

I’d love to see it! My greatest struggle with this system is: 1) Getting a low score without loosing edge aggression. A totally smooth edge with a 50g BESS score is garbage. 2) The edge looses a lot of mechanical strength from this machine. Even compared to alumina based stones edges will roll or mushroom way earlier. I wanted to experiment with more diamonds during finishing but not worth the time.

[@redfish-vg9dj]

@Engineer’s Perspective the edge from the work sharp machine has more backbone and last a long time, due to the slack belt grind, I don't know what other sharpening system company is paying you, but the limitless selection of belts and being able to vary the speed, then finish on a strop, is a GREAT edge. I don't know who you're trying to fool with this crap, but looking at your numbers, it appears to be very few people thank goodness.

[@EngineersPerspective701]

I speak from my own experiences and the WS edges just don't hold up like a stone edge. You send me a knife with your edge and I'll send you mine, then I can feature them on the channel. Use a protractor and piece of paper. Draw a v-edge and a convex edge at the same apex angle. Let me know which one has more meat behind it.

[@redfish-vg9dj]

@Engineer’s Perspective it had always been known thru the history of blades and sharpening, that a convex edge last longer and is a way stronger edge, which is why typically in times past, due to the processes of forging and creating certain types of blades the convex edge was used, as it was and easier edge to create with a hammer. The convex edge is great for axes and chopping blades, as it is historically and factually a stronger edge that will last thru such abuse. The convex edge was made so much easier to produce with slack belt grinding, which makes it a great option now for EDC type knives, as the edge is a longer lasting, stronger edge. The facts are, that there are MANY different grinds, and different edges, that are better for different functions, slicing knives would benefit from a flat or flat flat grind, as also would fillet knives, but as we all "should" know, these knives need to be sharpened much more frequently, as the edges do not last nearly as long. This is not up for debate, you need to look up some blade and grind history, and see what grind to use, for what purpose, and how each grind handles use, as this is a subject that I don't think my fingers are prepared to type out, I'd be here for days. The fact that you can get an EDC pocket knife sharp enough to shave with, that has a stronger convex edge, and do it so quickly with slack belt sharpening, males it a GREAT option, when I sharpen my slicing and filet knives, I use a flat grind, which by the way, work sharp has sets of stiffer belts that do quite nicely on. I have many different machines and stones, and slack belt grinding is not the end all, be all, but it is the most convenient, and quick way, to get a knife sharp, with a great edge. The problem with utube is, that some novice looking for views, can get on here and start putting videos out, speaking as if what they are saying is true, when the results of what they are doing vary so much depending on pressure, feel, technique, speed, and on and on. The results you get, are certainly not something that should be taken as factual, or even useful. I don't even care about the work sharp brand specifically either, you can get the same results on pretty much any belt grinder where you can use different types of belts. I'm done, and I won't be wasting any more time here, you need to do a massive amount of research, and practical, hands on training for several years, then come back and try again.

[@EngineersPerspective701]

@@redfish-vg9dj 👍