How To BEST LUBRICATE a Motorcycle Chain Whist Traveling - Use Heavy Duty Oil, Not Chain Spray!

[@John_Neves]

Here is a video of how i make my own chain lube: kzbin.info/www/bejne/d6i0hXymaK9mhcU

[@CosmicSeeker69]

6:06 - the point is - you aren't cleaning the chain - all you're doing here is wiping the outside of the link plates. Nothing else. The only crucial parts are the contact the roller has on it's pivot pin - which with an O-Ring chain you can't influence - and the contact the outside of the roller has with the sprocket. That's all there is to a chain. Unless your getting in between the links you achieve nothing - apart from visuals.

[@alsnyder1660]

I use oil but have recently changed how I apply it. I now use a bottle designed to apply glue to wood. The bottle have bristles on the top to spread the glue on the wood. I put oil in the bottle and 'brush' a film of oil onto the chain. It's an easy and fast way to get good coverage.

[@John_Neves]

That's very interesting 🤔 Thanks for that 👍

[@yt9njp]

Motul C5 Chain Paste?

[@NealZ31]

@@yt9njp rotella lube 😂

[@tigerward88]

Oil and small paint brush

[@John_Neves]

@sarahholland667 i like to think of lubing my chain basically to prevent rush. Just a thin coat. No fling 👍

[@robertbowler6130]

Its good to see a range of methods. People thinking for themselves instead of just buying what they want us to buy.

[@dawidos117]

I don’t ride a motorcycle with chain anymore, but my first motorcycle with chain had recommendation in the manual to use just engine oil to lubricate a chain. Understandable, easy and no BS. 🙂

[@John_Neves]

Hey there 👋 Thanks for watching 👍 Hopefully my next bike will have a shaft drive too 😁

[@dawidos117]

@@John_Neves Hey, John! No problem! It’s a very useful tip. 👍🏻 In my honest opinion, all this purpose made chain lubricants business is a one big scam. And my bike is not shaft driven, it’s a Harley Road King, man. 🙂 Ride safe! 👊🏻

[@John_Neves]

@@dawidos117 oh that's a nice bike 😍

[@dawidos117]

@@John_Neves yeah! Thanks! My all time dream bike! 🥰

[@hacker1011000]

​@@John_Neves what is the oils name you use in the red canister?

[@GeorgiaGrowGuy]

I ride a harley so it automatically oils my chain, brakes, tires, pegs, shifter, garage, road, & parking place with a nice fresh coating of oil.

[@John_Neves]

🤣🤣

[@francismallette]

lol

[@allynmcfarlin2074]

Smart man, I say.....

[@rocknraptor3195]

😂😂

[@Awaken2067833758]

No need to check oil level, no puddle no oil 🤣

[@garyt123]

I will speak _exclusively_ from personal experience. I have been riding since 1985, and obtained my full bike licence in 1988. I have riden bikes ranging fom RD125's and GT250 X7's, through RG500 fours, Kawasaki GPZ 600, early GSX-R 750's and more recently Triumph 955i's and Twins. Since 1990, when I installed my first Scottoiler on a ZXR750, I have _never_ replaced _any_ chain or sprocket on _any_ of my bikes. Every bike since then has been fitted with an automatic oiler. In 70k miles on the Daytona (a 150bhp bike) I adjusted the chain 3 times. When I traded that in for a Thruxton 900 (just 69bhp, but Ducati style torque) the dealer told me "thanks for having recently changed the chain and sprockets!", "I replied your welcome" although they were in fact the originals. I transfered my Scottoiler from the old bike to the new bike and the Thruxton now has 60k miles and the chain will _easily_ go another 120k. I have converted friends from spray to oil...its really easy because the _real_ enemy of our chains is in fact heat. Heat expands the chain, allows the internal grease to bypass the O-Rings and wears the sprockets like "shark fins" because the side-plates lengthen when hot, and the contact area creeps up the tooth. Sticky chain lube just converts into a grinding paste, thanks to sand, and road dust sticking to it, and producing excessive heat. So whats the easiest way of converting a friend from sprays? Ride 100 miles together then ask them to check the chain temperature of their bike compared to your's. My chains are relatively cold, a little above ambient temperatures. Their's is uncomfortable to touch for more than a few seconds. One friend went 22k on his Tiger 1050 before requiring a new drive kit, when changed he vowed never to use spray lubricants again, having read that a completely dry chain would actually last longer. That, second chain, lasted 21k - and was _never_ lubricated from the moment it was fitted. Same heat you see. My advice - if you intend to do at least 20k on your "new" bike (or new chain), get a Scottoiler - they are cheaper than a chain & sprocket kit, easier to install, and will give you a guaranteed ROI.

[@NoName-is6py]

Many many thanks.. ❤

[@harvey3837]

That’s got to be an ad!? Surely.

[@patrickoneil6817]

What kind of oil do you put in the Scott oiler I’m considering getting one

[@garyt123]

@@harvey3837 No mate. Just personal experience over 35 years.

[@garyt123]

@patrickoneil6817 They come with a half litre of their own brand oil. In the past I have used ATF and even _used (old)_ engine oil with no negative effects - just adjust for the delivery rate. The oil is _really_ for cleaning and rust-proofing, not _actual_ lubrication.

[@bruceparr1678]

I have been riding an MZ250 since I bought it in 1984. Following the manual, I applied grease to the (non O ring chain) every 2500km. I replaced the first chain at 128,000km. At 142,000km the second chain looks good. Still on original sprockets.

[@highdownmartin]

MZs are brilliant.

[@allseeingotto2912]

They have the enclosed chain which helps a lot .

[@John_Neves]

Wow 😲

[@ramiretz]

@The Old Husky yes offroad its best to run the chain dry..... did that 25 years ago on my Husky WR 360 and still today on my offroadbikes......

[@adamkwalczyk]

142 000 on a two-stroke is impressive. How did the engine hold up over the years?

[@PetterIvarsson]

I have been using oil for chainsaw for many years and it works like a charm

[@wikeywikeywhick3852]

thats a good point

[@mickeymouse4897]

Me too, you can also buy ET (extra tacky) chain saw chain oil, cheap as chips, 1/2 litre bottle will last the life of any chain, just give it a quick clean with WD40 or GT85, dry it off with clean rags, then drip on ya lube, aerosol chain lube is mostly over priced crap.

[@anthonyturner3238]

Clean the chain with paraffin then lube with gear oil

[@BWGPEI]

Yes indeed. That trick I started using years ago. Works with mountain bike chains as well. Also lube while the chain is hot, thus the cooling chain will suck the oil into the places you really need it to go.

[@davids11131113]

I’ve always used Mobil1 synthetic from my oil changes just leave upside down the ‘empty’ bottles and you get plenty to fill a bottle with an applicator tube, works great and it’s free really.

[@davew3130]

I use a toothbrush and grease to keep the O-rings lubed. A lot less friction compared to chain wax. Just changed my V Strom 650 chain and sprockets at 35,000 miles. Chain was just starting to show couple links that were getting stiff. Rear sprocket looked almost new. Front sprocket had remarkable longevity showing minimal wear. Only adjusted chain at 10k intervals when replacing tire. Ride in Pennsylvania

[@fabriziobianchi3126]

May I ask you what kind of grease did you use?

[@brianhaenlein396]

@@fabriziobianchi3126 I use regular wheel bearing grease and have a O ring chain and have not had to adjust my chain on either of my bikes.

[@fabriziobianchi3126]

@@brianhaenlein396 Do you mean a NLGI 3 Lithium Grease?

[@dxb0101]

I've been using grease as well - for the past 40 odd years, much better than the chain lubes you can buy!

[@ShadowMcSneaky]

he is also using a mixture of 90% grease and 10% oil....he is just not saying it in this video but in another.....i tryed the heavy duty oil...it didnt hold on to the chain....and now i see he is using 90% grease....🤬😡🤬

[@trevorlock642]

I've been using oil for years and years. Sticky chain spray + road grit = grinding paste! My chains show minimal signs of wear, and look like new.

[@ShadowMcSneaky]

he is not using oild.....he is using a mixture of 90% grease and 10% oil

[@domagojJugovic]

Yup, dry ptfe lube or oil which drips away with dirt, those sticky lubes just make grinding paste. For a long time I am at dry lube for simplicity.

[@solo_4]

YT just gave this video in my feed and It really got me to change my mindset from using Chain Spray to Oil. Thank you John.

[@gregorbabic7664]

Jar with heavy weight gear oil and a small 1” wide paint brush. Lay on the oil thick while brushing the chain, then a good wipe down takes all the dirt and leaves very little oil to fling off while leaving a nice protective layer of lube on everything. Simple, cheap, fast.

[@davidmarberry5565]

THATS A GREAT IDEA ! IVE BEEN USING A CAN PUMP OILER W GEAR OIL BUT CAN'T GET GOOD COVERAGE CUZ EVERY PUMP JUST GOES ALL OVER MISSING SEVERAL LINKS AND OVER OILING SEVERAL MORE JUST MAKING A HUGE MESS BUT A JAR AND PAINT BRUSH SOUNDS LIKE IT WOULD WORK GREAT THAT WILL BE MY NEXT TRY FOR SURE ! THANKS !!

[@gregorbabic7664]

@@davidmarberry5565 you can always apply the oil to the brush with the can and then brush the chain. This way you avoid all the settled dirt that you get in the jar. I have started doing his where I just put a little oil from the pointy spout of the gear oil bottle onto the brush and use the jar to just have a place to set the oily brush.

[@lukash7659]

Hey, Yea I lube my chain only with gear oil. I have a Nemo2 oiler installed at my bike. Also a Scottoiler would work.

[@Kaufeetimevideo]

In the early 1970s, I was told by the dealer mechanic to use diesel fuel to clean the chain. Follow up with thick gear oil for lubrication. During the 70's I don't remember if O rings were used on chains.

[@Filipediasalmeida]

I stopped using chain lub cans in my moto a couple of years ago... Exactly as you described. I found in the owners manual that what they recommend is heavy dutty oil. In my case, I use car transmission oil (manual gearboxes use a thicker oil, 70w, I believe). It lubricates quite good, it is easy to clean and costs a fraction of a can of spray lube (As I recall I payed 7€ for half a liter of that stuff, and it lasts a LOT!), as you mentioned. Will never revert to sprays again.

[@ShadowMcSneaky]

he is not using oil....he is using a mixture of 90% grease and 10% oil.....he is saying that in another video.....🤬🤬🤬

[@dontforgettobringatowel9106]

I mostly agree with you. My one and only issue with your method is how you clean the chain. Don't use a pressure cleaner, because they are strong enough to push water past the O-rings and mix with the lubricant inside the rollers.

[@j.a.7721]

I clean with kerosene or diesel. I apply it with a cheap 1" brush. And scrub with a chain brush

[@dontforgettobringatowel9106]

@j.a.7721 same here.

[@loop4737]

I don't want to take advice from a guy who pressure washes his chain lol

[@dontforgettobringatowel9106]

@@loop4737 fair enough

[@ShadowMcSneaky]

he is not using oil.....he is using a mixture...90% grease 10% oil

[@amc31b]

75w-90 gear oil is what I use. Works great!

[@seatime674]

That's not a bad idea. Won't fling off as much if it's thick

[@seatime674]

@@nigelosgood4922 Rode many dirt bikes growing up and anytime I would put oil on the chain it flung up and made the whole bike and rim totally filthy, was so pissed, and it never stops coming off you could clean the bike 5 times and would still spray off so I stopped lubricating it all together. Might try the 80w90 in "extremely" low doses

[@lomate1963]

Same here I use a small pastry brush dipped in ep 80 clean off with gt85 spin wheel on paddock stand before each ride no stretch on my790 in 6000 miles totally converted 👍🏻

[@ReferenceFidelityComponents]

Hypoid EP90 gear oil for me and over winter or when wet, 10% lithium grease mixed with it in a jar and applied with a brush. To clean, I use the same brush and paraffin.😁

[@jamescampbell4334]

75w-90 gear oil is all I use. I apply it after a ride (chain is still warm), put a small piece of blue painter's tape over key slot, park it in the garage. The tape over key slot reminds me to wipe off the chain when I roll the bike out for my next ride.

[@CHIBA280CRV]

Awesome will be joining the oil chain gang , never tried but will now . Thanks for sharing your experience and advice 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

[@djdoctorstyle]

I've should have watched this video BEFORE spending $14 on a stupid spray can. Thank you so much for the information!

[@itsallabouttheridekeepingi4449]

Hay Mate Paul from Australia, a friend of mine users engine oil mixed with graphite power - helps the oil stick . Yes Ryan from Forthnine said engine was one ☝️ of the best lubricants when tested against all others . When I travel I use a Motul chain paste ( it’s like a tooth paste tube but larger . ) it’s fantastic and compact and will fit under most seats . Also you don’t have to worry about it leaking . I reckon I will start using my old 90/130 weight transmission oil - thinker so will stay on better Good 👍 Vid .

[@louislopez55]

I think every rider should use whatever they think is best. (Even if they are wrong) This KZbin video shows how I’ve been doing it for over 20 motorcycles and 39 years riding. I can’t imagine getting less than 25 thousand miles out of a chain and sprockets, and on a 1200 Bandit I got to 40,000. I have an oiler can like his, but now I prefer to apply the gear oil with a brush as it gets to all the chain parts easily. I just pour a small amount of oil in a container (like a plastic drink cup), brush it on the chain, wipe it down without being too aggressive, and I’m done. If you do use the spray type, position a piece of old cardboard behind the chain so when you spray it doesn’t end up on the wheel, tire, swingarm, etc.

[@andrewallen9993]

My 1970 Norton 750 Commando automatically lubricates the chain using crankcase blowby. My 1985 Jawa 350TS automatically lubes it's chain with gear oil that leaks past the drive seal and the chain case keeps dirt and grime off it.

[@sn00pgreen]

I haven't tried it yet but I recon chainsaw chain oil would be better than anything..it has a really sticky consistancy to stop it flying off

[@Magnetik_moto]

I went a step further and made a chain oiler from a syringe, pneumatic tube going to the rear sprocket and a valve to stop it from leaking. Now my chain is literally lubricated with a press of a button. It really helps on a bike without a central stand. Cheapest gearbox oil stays on the chain for about the same amount of time or kilometers as spray grease. BTW service manual for my bike (and many other bikes) says gearbox oil like 80w90 is what you should use. Spray grease seems like a markeing bull$hit...

[@zzrider805]

I came up with something similar. Not pressured as a syringe, but with the help of gravity and a venturi effect at atmospheric pressure. I've got a 2nd "clutch" oil reservoir, linked to a syphoned hose going down the frame and swingarm, fixed with zipties, aimed at the rear sprocket, just like a Scottoiler or a Nemo. It's also a manual procedure just like the syringe or Nemo method, but not a pressured one. When I 'm riding, from time to time, usually around 75 to 100 km, I manually undo the syphon, and oil starts flowing down the hose. With speed and wind flow, as oil drips out of the hose end, it makes a spray that will lube the chain and rear sprocket. With the current chain (JT 530 X1R, not the heaviest duty from JT) I've done 85k km and I'm expecting to do another 5 to 10k km, on a 1350cc engine. The reservoir I fill up with used engine oil and at home I use gear oil applied with a brush. I lube the chain almost everytime I ride, which is often. Using engine oil, since it's thinner than gear oil, has a secondary effect, which is self cleansing. Visually It looks like new but already has some wear, since chain length is reaching it's limit and starting to make those snapping sounds, especially when you pull a bit harder on the throttle. I only ride when it's raining if I'm caught, and it doesn't rain much where I ride. From my experience, I've been riding bikes almost for 40 years now and do my own maintenance, it's really important to lube the chain, with any kind of lubricant, even olive or sunflower oil, if anything more suitable isn't available at the moment (I've done that...), if you want it to last (and sprockets) and care about it. And yes, my rear wheel is always a mess...

[@holeephuc007]

Wash with white spirit or paraffin. Lubricate with Gear Oil.

[@turbolag5107]

I used WD-40 to clean it. Then I use gear oil to lubricate it.

[@holeephuc007]

@@turbolag5107 whatever works for you.

[@ponponontheroad]

What about high speed centrifugal force? A sticky chain spray is made for that, no?

[@gerardsalmon6564]

Great video, Been using rear gear oil on motorcycle chains, till up to 85, since 86 my rides have been shaft drive, until this year , I purchased a used Honda 919 & will use gear oil again

[@tomellis4750]

As you say, lub. after a ride when the chain is warm. Ryan of Fortnine recommends car gearbox oil, as better anti-fling properties than engine oil. I use a paint pad. They are like a pile carpet, used for painting walls with emulsion. They come in various sizes, around 15X8 cms. There is a track at the back onto which a handle clips. If the pad is cut into three pieces the handle will still fit. The pad can then be charged from a squeezy bottle of oil, goodly amount to the inside of the chain, then lightly charged to do the outside and sides, just to prevent rusting. It's much easier with a mate to turn the wheel. All cloths should be lint free. Glorious day today, have just bee round Loch Ness. Go well.

[@John_Neves]

Did Scotland a few years back. An absolutely amazing ride! Loved the scenery and the people 👍

[@tomellis487]

@@John_Neves Ridden Inverness, Beauty, Fort William, Forres today. Glorious weather, hundreds of bikes out. Go well.

[@hunterkennedy641]

I use honda gear oil for my chain. Been using it for years. Always had great results!!

[@notumang]

Totally agree with you. I had been doing the same, every 500 kms, since I bought my motorcycle in 2019, both chain and sproket are in good condition. As its dirt cheap, its easy to take care of the cahin set rather than being worried of expences. Availability is also an important factor, if you are out on a long trip its difficult to find chain lube but oil will be easily available. Very important video, thanks for sharing Ride Hard, Ride Safe 😎👍🏻

[@AffyNoX]

Yes, bike manual will specify heavy grade oil, only drawback for me is to carry it during my travel. On my smaller bike I use a low cost manual oiler attached to the bike, it work great. Scotch Oiler use heavy duty oil, so that is proof itself why it is better to use oil.

[@poindexterrrrr]

Thanks John great video. Worth emphasizing to always turn the wheel backwards so your fingers can't get caught. It can happen so easily.

[@David-uc8vw]

Eu tenho um óleo de transmissão de carro motul 80w90, será bom a usar na corrente da moto? Cumprimentos

[@John_Neves]

Serve, Limpe o excesso para não salpicar muito a corrente 👍 Veja tb este video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/d6i0hXymaK9mhcU

[@koblih69]

I use a Scottoiler that puts oil on the chain automatically. Now that I've replaced the Bandit with a B-King, installing the Scottoiler was the first adjustment.

[@vn3801]

Really it's so simple. Cardboard inside chain standing upright, spray chain lube and spin rear wheel, wipe of excess the 30 mins late do it again. But before this mildly wet a rag with Krosene to clean it. Belray Blue Tac is the best and low fling lube I've ever used.

[@chris2790]

I live on a gravel drive that has a lot of stone dust that kicks up. I don't think oil is the type of lube I want to use. It'll attract the dust and I'll have increased wear.

[@waitpu4817]

Drill a hole in the chain guard get nylon tube you can feed in the hole , it's best to sit on your bike to see how long the tubing needs to be that you attach to an oil can keep the oil can in your jacket pocket or gaff tape it somewhere or make a bracket so you can lube you chain whilst traveling.

[@John_Neves]

Interesting approach 🤔 Thanks for the idea 👍

[@2002MX5]

I have been using Dupont Chain Saver for 15 years. My Kawasaki Versys 1000 '15 has 30,000 miles. Never had to adjust except when changing tires, no chain stretch, chain looks like new as do the sprockets. I've had new bikes since '73, and this product is the best there is. I clean chain every 3 rides with kerosene. Nothing works better than this product.

[@raybrensike42]

When I used to ride dirt bikes I ran across a chain lube that said it was designed from the military or whatever and had a combination of 50 different oils. When I used that on my chain, just before a long poker run in a desert, my buddies also lubed their chains, at when we took our rest stops, my chain was the only one that still looked wet. Theirs were all dry. I was accused of lubing my chain but I did not. Even when the event was over, it didn't look like it needed lube. I don't remember what the name of that stuff was, but it never flung off and never made an oily mess of the bike. If I could find that stuff again, I would always want chain drive, never a belt, maybe never even a drive shaft. No matter how many times one does something wrong, it doesn't mean one knows what they are talking about. Anything other than that spray chain lube was wrong. I just don't remember what it was called.

[@leswatson8563]

Long before chain spray became available in the UK, I use a heavy oil made by Castrol from the 1970s to the 1990s. I think it was an SHS3001 oil. I'd wash the chain with an old paint brush using Jizer. Then wipe dry and paint the chain with another paint brush with that Castrol oil. I traveled from Hertfordshire to Glasgow, did some touring around Scotland with an old mate in all weathers. Then three or four days later we'd head home. That Castrol oil was still on the chain when we got home. Pity I can't get access to that oil now as it's only sold in five gallon cans! Safe riding dude 👍...

[@thewiltshirerider01]

I always use gear oil and a tooth brush never lets me down 👍

[@leeengelsman1855]

Oil tends to flick off from the chain but stays where it's needed in the bushings the excess that flick off removes the old crud and dirt away with it leaving a relatively clean chain.

[@ShadowMcSneaky]

because it "flicks" off he is not using oil....dont let him fool you.....he is not using oil but a mixture of 90% grease and 10% oil.....he is even saying that in another video

[@machyne82]

I use an old toothbrush and gear lube. Wipe off the excess with a rag. Clean, and works great

[@stevehill4615]

Having worked with chains most of my working life (motorcycles, chainsaws and agri/plant equipment) the most cost effective lubricant i've found for motorcycle chain is filtered (run the oil through a paint filter to remove any solids) waste engine oil from said machine as it effectively costs nothing and is "thin" enough to penetrate into the pins & rollers (even on O and X ring chains) and link plates of the chain, finally it is a useful means by which to dispose of the used oil and there is anecdotal evidence that the carbon contaminants (why the oils black) aid in the lubrication.

[@mickeymouse4897]

You're just a scrooge in all fairness, old oil has some nasty toxins dissolved into it, not good if it gets on clothing & paintwork, chainsaw chain oil is very tacky & cheap, used it for yrs, spray chain lube is bullshit, as are O'ring chains, a well cleaned & lubed non O'ring chain will outlast an overpriced O'ring chain any day & it's far cheaper & lighter, causes less sprocket wear too.

[@Greggspies]

Can lube is glue which attracts grit were as oil keeps the chain clean. I used a Scotoiler and never worried about an oily tyre I crancked the drip down to one every 5 mins. Chain was always spotless

[@bootz0409]

Totally agree. In fact, your quoting of the bike manual was spot on. Most manuals refer the user to a medium/ heavy gear oil for chain lubricant and that works well. I brush it on with a toothbrush being careful not to actually place the same brush back into the bathroom. Lol 😆 But chain lube is yet another unnecessary gimmick to rack up sales when something much simpler is all that is required. My apologies to those who love chain lube in a can.

[@John_Neves]

My thoughts precisely 👍

[@asturiancetorix2552]

Well, after 15 years riding shaft driven bikes, now I went back to a chain... and as a former user of chain lube and it´s usual gunk, I have to say that heavy duty oil it´s the best option. It won´t make a mess (well, it flings but not crazy), it won´t attract so manyn dirt, it can be cleaned with ease, the chain can be degreased faster... I clean and oil the chain every 500km, more or less. Very happy with the results. To proper clean the chain I´m using "WD40 chain degreaser", works really well, but I suppose normal WD40 will do. Even you can use the heavy duty oil for cleaning, or just engine oil. Put it on the chain, scrub, and it´s clean again, no effort... To oil the chain again I use a rubber oiler designed for cooking. You put it upside down, and slightly "paint" the chain with the thing. Clean the excess with some paper or cloth, and have a beer.

[@guitarplayerlp7018]

been using 80/90w gear oil on my trailbike chain for a while now and noticed the chain is much more free in that the links turn better, noticeably quieter and easier to clean. The engine case in front of the sprocket also doesnt have the buildup of gunk anymore The thing is most user manuals for bikes with chains specify gear oil as the lubricant, spray lube is convenient but $$ and messy

[@kkhalifah1019]

I use SAE90 & SAE140 gearbox oils in my Nemo 2 chain oiler, which oils the chain twice a week while commuting to work. These unglamorous gearbox oils are cheap as chips and they keep the chain + sprocket clean in 2 ways 1) they're not super sticky like chainlube that attracts dirt 2) when they eventually fling off, they take the dirt off the chain with them. When you replace the front sprocket, you don't see that humungous build-up of sticky muck under the sprocket cover like you would if u use chainlube.

[@telmosilva7355]

Talvez o comentário venha tarde, mas a minha experiência diz o mesmo. Uso oleo 80W-90 com um lubrificador scootoiler, 45000 km com o mesmo kit de corrente cremalheira e pinhão e so agora começo a notar algum desgaste mas mesmo assim nada de grave. Único defeito é quando chove, a agua retira o lubrificante. Nesse caso tenho sempre uma bisnaga com o mesmo óleo e uma escova de dentes velha e lubrifico manualmente. Boas curvas João.

[@John_Neves]

Concordo completamente. Sim, na chuva é um pouco mais chato. Boas curvas amigo.

[@tiagobraga2143]

Tipo de óleo usas? Tipo valvulina de caixa de velocidades?

[@John_Neves]

Uso o que tiver à mão. Apenas uso óleo para evitar a ferrugem. Em viagem uso uma mistura de massa consistente e um pouco de óleo, pq não dá jeito limpar o excesso. Assim não salta por todo lado 👍 Tenho outro video a explicar como faço o lubrificante: kzbin.info/www/bejne/d6i0hXymaK9mhcU Espero que ajude. Boas curvas companheiro 💪

[@peterclaydon9782]

I use chain saw bar lube apply with a 12mm paint brush..

[@DavidSimpsonSpecialForces]

I was doing the same thing your describing, but got tired of cleaning the mess after all the oil flings off the chain!

[@nderezic]

Oil tends to attract more dust which in turn increases friction between components, which in turn requires the chain to be cleaned more often. That's what I found out while maintaining my bicycle. On my motorcycle I've been using the chain spray and can confirm that the stuff is difficult to remove while cleaning the chain!

[@artmchugh5644]

You take a old crappy rag , spray WD40 in the rag and wipe the chain as you turn your wheel !! Tried oil, grease and neither worked worth a damn !!! 😊😊😊😊😊😊😊 over 500,000 miles on my 4 Ducati and I believe that I know best !!! 😁😁😁😁🏍🏍🏍🍺🍺🍺

[@nderezic]

@@artmchugh5644 how often do you apply WD40?

[@artmchugh5644]

@@nderezic I just spray a couple of times on the rag , works damn good ! Then just reapply the lube !!! 😀😀😀😀🏍🏍🏍🍺

[@kristralewski9917]

Get a 1l bottle of a dedicated motorcycle chain & drivetrain cleaner and soak both the chain and sprocket, and the rear brake. Rinse. Done.

[@tonyhilliam2407]

I use chainsaw oil, nice and sticky, doesn’t fly off everywhere and is easily applied using a plastic bottle with a a thin tube and brass spout that can be sealed off. I carry a bottle in my tail-pack, which I use on an extended trip out on my bike.

[@geniuspackardbell369]

Truth from the beginning to the end. In addition : presure between sprocket and chain is enormous so both oil and spray must go left or right from the contact spot. Oil comes back to contact spot ('till its entirely gone ) but I'm not sure about spray.

[@philipdebelder6998]

Your reply is the only one, that makes any sense. Spray will, definately, not come back to the contact spot. I doubt oil will. Unless, cleaning and lubricating after every ride. I bought a new 2017 BMW R1200RT, because I was fed up with chain maintenence. Since 2019, I have serious starting and exhaust flapper valve problems. I have had it with the polite arrogance of BMW dealers, concerning, the above mentioned, world wide, problems. They simply refuse to confirm it. I would like to buy a Kawasaki Versys 1000. Never had any problems with Japanese bikes. If only, for the fucking chain maintenance. Philip de Belder-the Flanders.

[@jiankhan]

What bike and chain manufacturers says (and always was) about chain maintenance? Gearbox oil, or any high thick motor oil, every 200-300km, and after every rain trip. I used sometimes chain spray lube, but it's a pain in the ass to clean, catch all the road dirt, and fucks up the chain at the speed of light. But yes, it's convenient... Personally, i recycle my motor oil in a DIY automatic oiler. Works pretty well. Easy to clean, good lubrification, and my chain kit live way longer. For example, my commute bike is a 98's FZS 600, 265.000 km ( yes :] ), and the chain (non O-Ring DiD reinforced, so one of the cheapest) has almost 55.000km. Tips: i use P18 in my motor oil, so there is literally no wearing due to metal to metal friction. Oil is the way.

[@donwolfjr1]

Actually makes sense using oil instead of the sprays!! Thanks John!!! Don W., Ohio, USA!

[@John_Neves]

Just don't oil it too much. Think of it as a rust protector. No flinging on to the wheel 👍

[@donwolfjr1]

@@John_Neves Of course!! Lol.

[@stancoleshill8925]

How do I whist travel. ?

[@danebrewer10]

You're also lubricating the o rings, if they get dry, they'll stick, wear faster and let water in between the pins and bushes, cleaning with paraffin and a chain brush works best for me... I use some cheap WD-40 type lube spray on the chain after a ride both sides to prevent rust and put lube in as and when the chain looks dry or sounds rattly....

[@tommykonsta]

What happens when you get on and ride after you oiled it. It will fling all over your bike and on your legs. The chain wax sticks to the chain. Stays on it. The oil will just fling off everywhere.

[@Alex-if3sr]

i find that oil only works if you have a automatic oiler. yes its cheap and works as a luve, but the second you start riding it flings off and you have a dry chain which is noisy. At the same time having these chain sprays, although they stay on, they also stick in between the links full of dust and sand, so probably become twice as bad. Once i replace my chain i will most likely go for an oiler, to drip a few drops as im riding.

[@andycapp3867]

We use excavators, wood chippers, stump grinders etc., and maintenance is the key for longevity. We therefore have access to many types of lubricants and for absolute simplicity and cost a can of waterproof (not water resistant!!!) grease is by far the best. We buy in bulk and a can is really cheap, less than £3.00. It doesn’t fly off, you need very little, and easily removed with diesel when it comes to servicing the chain. When caught in a down pour is when this type of grease is preferable to oil. When applied it’s in liquid form and within a few seconds it reverts to standard grease. When touring, we lube up the chain at the end of the day and after 300 miles run for instance the chain is still coated, hence why so little is used as a top up. For those who say grease attracts dust and grit, I would argue the same applies to wax, oil and other lubrication systems. With oil, its use as a carrier will take the oil inside the rollers and increase wear; much less so than commercial waterproof grease The proof is in the pudding as they say, our chains and sprockets cover thousands of miles travelling across continents in all climates and without incident. Economy is one aspect of motorcycling but ease and efficiency must also become part of the resolve to ensure pleasure throughout the experience. Food for thought fellow riders of motorcycles.

[@endurofly]

I use thick mixture of oil and graphite grease for over 20 years.Chain and sprocket last about 50.000 Km on 80 HP motorbike.

[@JVWinalberta]

Some oils, but not all, have additives that will expand the o rings wrecking the o ring seal. Then the dirt gets in, cant get out. It then turns into a grinding paste. And drastically shortening the life of $$$ chains. Which is why they sell chain lube in a can. FYI I would 80-90W gear oil, nonj synth if you are going to use oil.

[@jeffdeppe7032]

I have a 2012 suzuki vstrom dl1000, I bought a chain and sprocket set from JT. They recommended 85w90 gear oil to lubricate the chain

[@johnanderson9735]

I kind of agree, I have used oil a couple of times, and possibly I did it wrong, but oil makes more of a mess, where the spray lube seems to ‘stay put’ as compared to oil that seems to just ‘fly’ off, and to me more dirt and grime seem to stick to oil as opposed to the spray lube.

[@donderstorm1845]

did you wipe excess oil off?

[@gordonpaterson1005]

I use chainsaw chain oil, it does not get thrown off as normal oil does but can still be cleaned off.

[@brockett]

Yes mate, oil preferably 80 grade gear oil, applied with a brush held against either side of the rear sprocket as the wheel is spun. Fixing a problem created by the manufacturer in response to an idiotic fashion. The cure - a fully enclosed chaincase. Look at 1970's MZ and Jawa. Even the Honda step throughs.

[@musk-eteer9898]

i've been using Maxima chain was for years, they don't fling all over the place like oil does. make sure to apply it after the ride when chain is warm.

[@markconlon814]

I have only ever used gear oil on my bike chains, since having my 1st bike in 77!

[@FastDB10]

Have you ever tried canned chain lubes e.g. Motul or something similar ?

[@markconlon814]

@@FastDB10 never, always 80 or 90 gear oil, an have only ever changed 1 chain in 47 years, and that was when I fitted a zx10r swingarm on my zx9r, and needed a longer chain, and I clean my chains with desal!

[@deanb6163]

Thanks, I'm going to switch over to oil, but I will be looking for an easier and clean way to carry it on the bike.

[@pj3175]

Have been doing mine the same way , for years as you say easier to clean .

[@khanie3113]

I just sprayed lube and didn't like the result. I've purchased regular gear oil for my next attempt. However, after spraying it this time, I still didn't get the desired outcome. The process was very messy, and some chemical smell gave me a headache. I'll try using the normal gear oil next time instead.

[@jameswhitley678]

I have always used oil to lube my chain on my motorcycle The bike I have now is a Honda 750 I put 40 thousand miles on my last chain before replacing it it was fine but I don't want to take a chance so I replaced it

[@stevegoodwin5841]

Spinning wheel by hand anti clockwise is even better, less loss of lube that way. Heavy duty gearbox oil best for sure. Cleaning the oil off parts makes it easy for sure.

[@10-50Mike]

How often should you lubricate the chain and what oil do you use?

[@malibu188]

Even the expensive O ring X ring chains have a plain metal bush (the bit that rides on the sprocket teeth) and it needs oil or it will not rotate smoothly and wear out the bike drive sprockets quickly.

[@eskertoo]

I read an article by Michael Neeves from MCN..All about chains and lube.I followed his advice for the last 3 years on my 2 bikes....Triumph Street Triple 675 2009 and Triumph Speed Triple 1050 2005.So for 3 years neither bike has had any chain lube.I simply keep the chains clean by spraying on WD40 and wiping off the excess,Normally after 200-300 miles or after a wet ride.This is simply to stop the chains from rusting.Neither chain was new when I started this process but after 3 years and well over 20,000 miles on each chain neither is showing any appreciable wear.The theory is that any heavy lube attracts grit and dirt which forms a grinding paste and prematurely wears the chain.Also there is no lube that can prevent metal to metal contact between chain and sprocket teeth.....the environment is too harsh.My chains are always clean and the WD40 cleaning process takes about 2 or 3 minutes.I buy a 5 litre bottle of WD40 from E bay which lasts about 2 years(but the price has nearly doubled over 3 years).The WD40 does not seem to degrade the O rings.I ride my bikes every day for 9 months of the year but I do try and avoid wet weather riding.

[@Awaken2067833758]

WD40 is oil

[@ripmax333]

I always use GearOil SAE90 or Higher and never looked back, it sticks to chain very well without making a mess.

[@TWist-sh4uc]

I use a thin multipurpose lubricant spray from 3M for lube the chain. It goes into the rolls and no dirt sticks on the chain.

[@geraldburmeister9637]

I go for a ride to warm the chain then put the bike on an atv lift and let it idle in 1st gear and wipe the chain with kero or diesel (be very carefull to not get near the sprocket obviously). Wipe dry the kero or diesel and use an 80-90 bottle to drizzle the inside of the chain. Then wipe off the excess off and shut off the bike. Set on the floor and leave a strip of cardboard under the chain to drip off any excess. After the first ride wipe the rear wheel off with dollar store generic lemon furniture polish, it melts gear oil or chainlube instantly. Wheel will stay relatively clean along time and the chain will stay lubed for 500 plus miles.

[@raybrensike42]

If I had a drive chain there is one thing I would like to try. I would like to try diluting tungsten disulfide powder into a bottle of alcohol and then spray the chain. Wait, I just looked it up. Lower Friction has tungsten disulfide spray. Try that as chain lube. I never have, just a suggestion.

[@TheBigBlueMarble]

Spray lubricants are hard to remove, but there is no real need to do so other than appearance. In the areas prone to wear the constant friction will remove the solid lube.

[@brianhaenlein396]

I use regular wheel bearing grease and have not had to adjust my chains and I don't even clean them but only every 5 thousand kilometers . Makes a mess in my front sprocket cover but not a problem.

[@letsg4353]

Chain lube actually prevent my chain from corroding and stay it look clean unlike ordinary oil where it still corrode andget tons of dirt

[@oldschoolmotorcycleinc]

ive been using it for also every bike i owned.. but while traveling i carry Chain Lube in my bag to use it while traveling...especially going offroad

[@pedropeixoto3539]

Que óleo coloca ? marca.

[@John_Neves]

Não importa. Está aqui um video a explicar como faço o óleo: kzbin.info/www/bejne/d6i0hXymaK9mhcU Pode ser que ajude 👍

[@RedRupert64]

You're right. DID, one of the primary brands of chain, recommend using gear oil - its tells you so on the packaging. I find oiling the chain tiresome as I tend to do many kms at a time, and am having too much fun to bother myself with maintenance. Try a chain olier - Scottoilers ard pretty good, but expensive these days. I recommend a TuToRo oiler - they need no electrical or vacuum connection. My chains last three times as long when they're properly lubricated.

[@christian7b262]

One may want to also check the sprocket area for oil flung off and creeping down the engine. It's absolutely sufficient to do this occasionally. I'd been using Scott Oil on my chain for over 40 k km, automatically applied by the McCoi chain oiler. Recently switched to API GL5 mineral chain oil and reduced the oil rate so I can go from Germany to Portugal, pedir uma ou duas Sagres sem álcool 🤩 por favor and go back without even refilling the little oil tank (about 120 mil). And the friction reduction is substantial, compared to conventional chain lube.

[@John_Neves]

Sem álcool? Where is the fun in that 🤣🤣 Have a safe journey 👍

[@scottsellers9039]

I've been using chainsaw bar oil thinned with a little mineral spirits in a small applicator bottle for years. I apply it to every link from the inside, so the centrifugal force moves the grime out of the links. I think the side plates and rollers need lube no matter how the pins are lubed.

[@andycapp8843]

Chainsaw bar oil and automatic gearbox oil mix 50/50, used for years…..sparingly. Occasionally use Gt85 liberally to help wash out the rollers. Bar oil…brilliant stuff.

[@AubMar]

You're on it Sir, Chainsaw oil doesn't fling odd the chain like engine oil (as recommended here) but don't thin it, if possible apply new oil to the chain after a run wen everything is still warm and apply to the bottom run so as its on the inside of the chain - I also use ep90 gear oil in an oil can and it does make the bike smoother, noticeably!

[@PatrickWhitaker-ls2cs]

Clean your chain with a rag damped with paraffin, every 2-300 miles, dry it off with a clean rag, apply gear oil to the inside chain run only, I've done this since the 1970's and my chains easily last 30,000 miles with adjustment only every 4-5000 miles required.

[@zzzpip]

chain spray forms a paste when it's mixed with dust and dirt. like a grinding paste.

[@sgsuper1150]

The oil can fling on the wheel unlike sticky chain lube.

[@full-gazz-pitbike-kaputt]

So what!?

[@Balls-of-Steel504]

@@full-gazz-pitbike-kaputt Any dummy knows oils deteriorates rubber for a start. My 50 years in motorcycle mechanics has seen endless problems caused by oil on chains. depends on the bike but always caused damage to other parts. Mostly rubber covers, rubber spacers and some rubber seals. It will also soften the o rings in the chain and shorten the o ring life, although most chains are replaced regularly so its of little consequence to the chain.

[@philtucker1224]

That’s the opposite to John’s advice. (I think he is very experienced and knows what he is talking about).

[@sgsuper1150]

@@full-gazz-pitbike-kaputt It makes you fall off stupid

[@sgsuper1150]

@@philtucker1224 I work in the motorbike industry and see thousands of customer bikes. I think he has limited experience and he is only expressing his personal opinion.

[@emanuelperez2329]

Qual é o óleo adequado para lubrificar a corrente com o-rings?

[@zzrider805]

80-90W, 85-140W, óleo de moto-serra ou óleo de motor, novo ou usado

[@andrescarrasco4980]

Amazing advice John ! Thanks

[@avocette]

I simply follow Honda's instructions for lubricating chains: engine oil. Since my 428 chains are half-inch pitch, I simply used an empty bicycle chain lube bottle I had. Nifty thing is the applicator is a sprocket with holes between the teeth so I just perch it on my chain, put my motorcycle in 1st gear, and with a light squeeze on the bottle, it applies an even amount of oil on my chain rollers. I then just wipe the excess off.

[@Sunrazor]

How do you oil the sides of the chain? For rust protection.