How to build a 240 / 220 SCR Controller for a 5500 Watt Heating Element

#electric #moonshine #philbillymoonshine
In this video I show you how to build a 240 volt scr controller with a internal fan for cooling it down. If you ever wanted to go electric with your still then check this out.
www.philbillymo...
You need 2 of these
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1 of these
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Element
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Receptacle for element
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Junction Box for SCR
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Fans you only need one but they come in a 2 pack
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AC/DC converter you only need one but comes in a 2 pack
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LCD
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Relay
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Junction for Element
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Cable Glands if you can find a decent size wire
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Cable Glands if your wire is huge like mine
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[@MereCashmere]

For those of you building these on your own, keep it cheaper and easier by buying a 220v fan, small ones are less than 12 bucks and it saves a whole component of this circuit. Also, you don't need the switch. Plugging the circuit in will act as your on/off. Saves more money and time, and simplify it a bit

[@bobnewhart4318]

Thank you for taking the time to follow through and make the video and provide us with a shopping list

[@z135210]

I like the idea of having the element plugged in instead of directly wired. I plan to do this on a build soon because i'm sizing up from a baby 110 to a 220 element on a 15 gallon keg still.

[@henryarrington3446]

I’m no expert by any means, but why would you want to detect amps on the incoming power ? I would think it stay the same all the time. I figured the donut would go on outgoing power.

[@ptbelttactics]

The amperage changes as the solid state relay increases/decreases the amount of power the heating element is allowed to draw.

[@drcdrdoct9864]

I like your stuff philbilly but you need to keep it consistent with the wire colors. Using a spare Green wire as a jumper for a hot wire is pretty alarming. Try and not use green wire for anything but ground.

[@chadbelcher3136]

I'm glad I paid for you to build mine.looking forward to receiving it soon I hope!

[@TheTubejunky]

Hope you have FIRE insurance and DON'T TELL THEM YOU GOT THIS THING~!

[@ptbelttactics]

@@TheTubejunky As a industrial electrician, I cringed through the whole video.

[@captnjack5637]

I made one about a month ago. Do yourself a favor and use the right kind of wire terminals and terminal blocks especially to hook your wiring up. It will make it look and perform a lot better especially if you're selling them. The wire nuts are really not made to be jostled a lot. Remember you are running 240V and around 15 to 20 amps.

[@TheTubejunky]

Learn FIRST...Don't play hide & seek with DEATH. (many don't understand) Be an electrician or CALL ONE. (At the very least be WELL informed of the dangers and the process in which to SAFELY "PLAY with" mains voltages and amps above (20mA)) sketchy wiring jobs KILL unsuspecting victims because of these words *_ "Trust me it works...I made it"_*

[@Cyanotic413]

Are you able to send me some more info about what you used for your setup? My dad is wanting me to make him one of these and there's no way I'm letting him use one of these with this guy's build. I've just been shaking my head the whole time while watching his "techniques."

[@TheTubejunky]

FLUX is your FRIEND~!

[@PatrickNeufeld]

can you add a link for the tri clamp?

[@kevinhoban4416]

Thank you a lot I think I'm going to give it a go I like messing with stuff like that if not you'll be getting a call from me for a box like your videos keep them up

[@MrLonstar]

The whole time I was watching this video I thought at the end you'd say "only kidding, don't do anything the way I did. Not one single part of it". But I was wrong. To all watching this video....do not build it this way....for more reasons than I care to type.

[@Dillonfromforks]

Then post a video on how to build it....

[@mihunter2343]

I see your link to Amazon send me to a ssr relay and not a scr relay. Is that the right relay or is there an issue here?

[@TheTubejunky]

This is a DARWIN moment waiting to happen. Sorry but this IS NOT SAFE my guy. I CANNOT watch the full video. I can only hope others don't "TRY & DIE"

[@richardpkarre9557]

How much are they

[@tomchristensen2914]

My still came with a pid controller. Should i swap out to scr? Does it heat and hold temp better

[@ptbelttactics]

No, the PID is better at maintaining a consistent vapor temperature once you learn how to use it. The PID hunts for the required amperage draw to maintain your set point temperature. The SCR allows you to control the amperage. Ol' Philbilly here, was incorrect when he said the PID runs full power until it hits temperature and then shuts off. If you watch your PID you will see it run full amperage until it hits your set point and then pulse power to maintain that temperature.

[@peacefuldavid1]

PID isn't better for a whole lot of still operators. The liquid will boil at a temperature related to the alcohol content, and is unrelated to the power being put into the still. Flow rate, especially with plates and other methods to create reflux, is what many operators want to manage. Thus, power level, not Vapor temperature is the controlling metric. We many track the vapor temperature, but we don't seek to control it. In addition, this build was NOT a SCR build, it was using a SSR. SCR is a more robust solution. @@ptbelttactics

[@jeremyarnold1979]

WOW....

[@justinmills9728]

I’m gonna try this. Does it matter what switch and knob you use?

[@captnjack5637]

Barely and Hops has a lot better explanation of setting something up like this with diagrams for 110 and 240V

[@boognish593]

I’ll never tell someone what to do…but I will suggest you not sell these in this build config. Use proper terminals to make terminations, get that heat sink off the plastic, loose the wire nuts, etc. when somebody burns diwn their building/home or electrocutes themselves they are gonna come at you with lawsuits.

[@DewayneJohnson83]

Thx Phil

[@TheTubejunky]

7:45 = This isn't recommended as the EPOXY can be conductive and create a FIRE HAZARD. Why would you put a HEAT-SINK on a *_PLASTIC_* enclosure? Again FIRE Hazard?

[@jeremyarnold1979]

I used an external heatsink that's the size of my case and cut the plastic out to clear the united automation psr-25.

[@boomerjones9385]

Epoxy alone is non-conductive, but if combined with silver filled epoxy it can become conductive. The most common is silver, but gold, nickel, copper and carbon can also be used. Another benefit is the epoxy can also be thermally conductive, meaning it can also cool the component.

[@tagisforeveryoung9793]

i appreciate info but dude.... omg ... hope thats firs electrical thing you are doing :D no one care about colours , name it by function (positive , ground, negative)