How to Build a Deck START TO FINISH

[@christopherkouri2317]

As a full time handyman/remodeler this has totally become my favorite channel! Bravo sir and thank you for all your effort putting out this content. Always informative and enjoyable

[@row0111]

'handymans', rarely handy at all.

[@christopherkouri2317]

@@row0111 thank goodness for exceptions! 😂

[@mattjns]

Oh the JOY in seeing you put an air gap between the house and plate! So many chippies miss this.

[@Rezorcful]

I dont understand why he would bevel the posts so water doesnt sit on them, and then make those ledger shims flat on top. The thin wood would rot first.

[@DiscoFang]

@@Rezorcful End grain vs. side grain.

[@socks982]

you could turn them so they are diamond shape and would do the same thing + shed water

[@w0ngzy]

Just finished my deck! Lots of helpful tips and inspiration from this vid Scotty! After 800 screws and many 40+ degree days, i'm so glad it's over haha.

[@ScottBrownCarpentry]

Haha that's awesome man! You'll enjoy it for years to come 🙂

[@visbechdrengen]

Great videos! I´ve been binge watching a lot the past weeks :D A side note to this video though... If you pour concrete under and around the post, the water can't go anywhere when it's raining but up into the bottom of the post, thereby rotting it out quicker. Just fill down earth up under and a bit up the sides, then pour concrete in. Then there is drainage around the post. Keep up the good work :) Greetings from Denmark

[@learningcoach1]

I'm loving this training on decks it's presented so simply . episode 6 . STILL WATCHING

[@pausedmotions]

Hey Howzit! You inspire me to pursue a career in carpentry. For the past 10 years I've been in commercial audio visual and now solar power. I've always enjoyed building and working with my hands. Carpentry seems like the way to go and less chances of being electrocuted lol

[@Makoonga]

I'm Larry. 50 years in construction. Don't agree with the way you do everything but the end product is what's important and your work always looks great.

[@mokekr]

50 years..part of the leaky house era lol

[@DavidJones-qb1tb]

Top vid guys. I'm from the UK and can't help laughing everytime you say deck. Sounds like another word......... lovely job.

[@PaulGerarts]

Gotta use that Shaeffer's

[@donthompson7889]

Finally, a KZbin deck that I wouldn't be afraid to have a dozen people stand on. Life is easier when you don't have to worry about frost heave :)

[@MrEazyE357]

"Hi there, you've caught us enjoying our deck." 😂

[@patrikwihlke4170]

We're all excited about the dicking! :D Laid my first deck after watching this video!

[@beretmaster]

Old mate from telecom is never going to find that Telco pillar now!

[@pinkeye00]

Like the Jack Johnson of decking. Nice job, boys.

[@Zacharyk1127]

So if I’m not mistaken, concrete around posts is a no-no in Canada. Must be some different codes, well, definitely. Nice deck!

[@soltrain7949]

Pretty standard here in NZ. Might be something to do with the weather conditions?

[@DiscoFang]

And the type of timber and the treatment process.

[@Intenslfled]

Love the quality and workmanship from you blokes 🤙🏻. Coming from a boilermaker in Aus 😜

[@donryan3153]

I would have put cross bracing between the joists, and I would have hung the joists from the header board against the house, raising it up . But there's more than one way to do things... nice job!

[@redroseaus]

Thanks so much for sharing. How deep is the posts concreted un the ground..? Thanks

[@markodjukic7666]

Great video. Good looking deck. Your presentation style is up there.

[@oskarbremer217]

Keep it going love your vids, i myself am a apprentice. Keep the intresting and fun content coming.

[@louis5668]

"the 'deck' laying is going great. Screwed it in half way" 😂😂

[@DutchSancho]

Toptip, trim the bush around your deck to make it look bigger

[@karlwish79]

Kwila post bracing. Is that why Auckland house prices have gone mad ;) Jokes. Great vid as always! Nice to re-watch and brush up on the processes before tackling my DIY deck... with pine braces might I add. in Palmy North. :)

[@hindesite]

Nice job, some of those hardwoods (like Vitex) stink bad when cut. Although the doubled bearer is covered by a full board in this case, in general it is not good practice to double up like that, since moisture gets trapped between the joist faces and can eventually rot. That was the base cause of the Berryman bridge disaster. Use sill flashing tape over the bearer or allow airflow between the faces.

[@DiscoFang]

Not valid. This timber is CCA pine. Sill flashing tape is NOT good for the joists that sit on it. If you read the packaging you'll also see sill tape is not rated for UV exposure.

[@DiscoFang]

Sill tape and flashing on bearers or joists in exposed areas has zero proof of efficacy. It's one of those things that seems a good idea until you realise it's effect on the timber that sits on it not just what's going on under it. DPC and flashing is for acting as a barrier separating wet from dry environments. Bearers and joists are both wet environments.

[@bartbug1]

Hi Scott, how do you calculate the boards, for the last board width....do you have to factor that in regarding the width of the deck or do you just Rip a board to suit each deck? Cheers,

[@wiskeymagic]

Larry was a famous boxer many many years ago. He won a fight that was a huge payout .... the next day the news paper headlines read ‘ happy as Larry’

[@andriusdabulskis2278]

And it’s from New Zealand so boys should read more of the history 😅

[@healingpotspa3369]

i am loving this song thats playing in your video when ur not talking... can i get it somewhere?

[@mikelytwyn3578]

Great video Scott! What countersink bit do you recommend to use with the Spax deck screws?

[@andrewfreestuff]

Really enjoying your vids. Could I make a small request to help amateurs like myself, could you give details on sizes and depths of holes etc and explain why. It probably seems obvious to builders but to novices this is info that we need guidance on

[@deathhamster_2213]

Loads of factors go into it bro. The width of your hole should be large enough so that there is at least 200 of concrete all thee way around your post, I normally make my holes 400x400. Depth is a little trickier and varies massively depending on what the pile is going to have to do. For most 'normal' piles (piles bearing a vertical load) on flat and stable soil the post should have a penetration of about 200 min. Always remember to add on an extra 100 so that there is a gap under the post for concrete. Piles on the corner of the structure are called anchor piles. For anchor piles the post should be a minimum of 900 deep since the post will be required to carry lateral loads. It also depends on the soil too, on firm flat ground you can get away with relatively shallow piles. On hilly and gravelly ground you'll want to dig A LOT deeper. Also, a general rule for all piles; the taller the pile the deeper you dig. And in NZ decking piles taller than 1.5m will require a consent from the council. and bear in mind that other piles, like piles for retaining walls have much different rules.

[@danneukirch4486]

Great info. to get the 100 under the pile of concrete, do you poor the concrete first and let it dry, then place the pile and new concrete round the sides? Or is the poured concrete firm enough straight up so you can do it all at once? Cheers.

[@deathhamster_2213]

Nah, don't do that man. What you wanna do hold the posts up using scrap timber, like you see him do in the video at about 1:00. Your trussing should be holding the post securely and 100 off the bottom of your hole. In the video you see him use what we call a 'string-line', this will let you get everything nicely level and lined up. It is also critical that your posts be pretty plum, especially for taller piles, otherwise the post will experience lateral torque (which is bad). The best way truss your stuff is to place a long plank (or series of planks) along the stringline, nail your post on to this plank first, this will allow you get the piles lined up horizontally with each other. Then you'll want to drive a wooden stake into the ground, about a 800 away from the hole and in line with of the edge of the post perpendicular to line of piles. Take a shorter length of scrap timber and use it to make a truss from the peg to the top of the pile. (About 1:37 you can see what I'm on about bro.) Nail the truss to the stake first and then use a level to get the post plum before nailing it to the truss (get yourself a mate and a nail gun for this). This truss will make sure the post is held plum while you pour the concrete. Now that your posts are being held tightly plum and 100 off of the bottom of the hole you'll want to pour in maybe 200 of concrete into the bottom of the hole and using a stick or your hand poke the concrete in to the gap under the post and then pour in the rest to fill. As you're filling up the hole use a trowel or a skinny rod (like a bit of rebar) to prod the concrete. This will make the concrete more fluid and help get it into those hard-to-reach spots (like under the post lol) as well as causing any voids or bubbles to rise up to the top. Keep the posts trussed up until the concrete sets and you'll be sweet as.

[@danneukirch4486]

Wow, awesome response mate, thank you! Yeah that makes sense now.

[@deathhamster_2213]

Haha, no worries bro. I hope that has demystified the whole situation. Its easy to get caught up in the more complex stuff and forget how some things that seem so obvious to us (like digging holes) aren't that obvious to everyone. Good luck with all those di... erm... decks you'll go on to build now!

[@MrEazyE357]

Anyone else just love listening to that Kiwi pronunciation of "deck"? 😂

[@melflob3ats]

I laugh every time

[@hakanwappling3743]

So you are worried of the moisture on top of the post but on the same time you run the post straight into the concrete that will suck moisture from the soil 24/7?

[@identityunknown_6995]

The issue is the pike is H5 treated which is basically an envelope treatment. The top of the pile gets cut to the correct height which means its not going to like sitting water on it. You could always coat the cut end with a timber preservative but its also good practice to cut an angle and it looks tidier too. The uncut end of the pile is fine the moisture from the earth wont cause any issues as it is protected.

[@bartbug1]

Just a quick question Scott. That end joist, it looks to be sitting on a block of timber (packer) @ 5:22. But couldn't see if the other joists were. Can you tell me why this was done this way, new to this?

[@JW77]

Can you make a video of how you calculate the amount of lumber you need to order? Thanks. Great video BTW.

[@ScottBrownCarpentry]

Thanks mate, future vid perhaps!

[@christopheringram568]

That is the easy part. Just like Scott did, you sit down and draw it out, then use your rough drawing measurements to figure the lumber needed. Then add 10-15%. Or you can cheat and use one of the many deck design calculators, I like the one on menards.com. It will print you out all the materials and hardware needed.

[@EpicPieGaming]

Hey how come you do the posts first? the decks ive built with my boss have always had the ribbon plate being the first step then the framing with the frame just held up with temporary probs then once all the framing is done we dig and concrete posts then continue to decking.

[@vzgsxr]

I've build loads of decks, and I do it the same way as you and your boss. A lot less mucking around.

[@DiscoFang]

How you you dig in difficult soils with the frame in the way?

[@jimbarrie1983]

Do the set out with profiles. Dig the holes. Make the frame. Suspend the post. Then when your sure everything is right concrete. It allows some flexibility.

[@jimbarrie1983]

But I would use post shoes on a small deck like that. Good job guys.

[@Maghanashi]

Love a good decking video... ;)

[@bryanparks9316]

Mint. Thanks.

[@garrettlund]

Great job as always!!

[@nieves757]

I'm about to try my hand at building a deck. I've been watching how-to videos (this was one of the best), but they all tend to gloss over details like what kind of nails to use, what kind of wood to use etc. Most recommend using screws to attach the decking to the foundation frame, but nails were used in this video. Nail tops don't look great, do they? And how are they hammered in without damaging the wood? They'd have to be slightly recessed, otherwise there'd be a risk to anyone who walked on the deck in their bare feet. And is there an advantage - apart from maybe it looks better - to having the deck "floating", as opposed to building it directly on the ground? Any tips or advice wold be very much appreciated. I'm planning on putting a hot tub on my deck, if that's relevant.

[@benjaminescolero6645]

Hey man make sure you use pressure treated lumber. Another option is cedar as well. Nails for the gram it self you can also get “treated” nails which prevent them and the wood from rotting. And for the decking use screws always screws back in the day nails were used but screws make it last a lot longer and keep the wood from twisting. As far as the hot tub goes you hey to make sure it is properly supported IE post and beam directly supporting your tub.

[@mikehobson4692]

Could you do a video on how you line up your spacing for the deck screws? I'm new and haven't figured out the best way. I also noticed you did a few rows at a time. If you could go over everything with more detail that would be great.

[@ScottBrownCarpentry]

We talk a bit more about it, 0:50 sec into this video here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aorCXn6VoLdnmKs

[@olrenison]

Looks rad guys. Nice job. 👌

[@sburge1989]

'As happy as Larry' comes from an aussie boxer who never lost a fight and retired with a fat stack of cash for the time. About £100k today, or 60 billion aussie dollarinos

[@abdulhaseeb5626]

Amazing work! Question. Which one is better? lag bolts / screws on the edger board against the concrete wall or structural screws? Also, i saw your other video where you said its better to use screws, but i see you are using nails. is it because this is framing, and screws are better for decking? not framing? Thank you so much :)

[@mauricebrown9094]

Maybe a Kreg Deck Jig might be a better way for your clients not to see screws anymore. Products are moving forward and even New Zealand can move with the times for a change .. Your clients will love the no seeing screw affect..

[@KarimDK81]

Nice thanks for sharing. Wich wood do you use on the floor? 😀

[@Jimii89]

Thank you great video. It would be better if you provided the specifications though :) timber dimensions etc

[@andrewbruton1058]

Happy as Larry 1st boxer to receive big prize money for a fight. Photographed holding big check with biggest ever smile 1800s I think

[@mrcats1249]

Happy as Larry.....Laurence ‘Larry’ Foley Victorian boxer from Bathurst Australia.

[@johnbrennan4770]

This is an awesome build. I need my deck to be really low to the ground...has anyone heard of tuffblocks? They look like they'd do the trick.

[@andremihinui4611]

Awsome mahi lads

[@jacobroots6572]

Hey mate, Question, when your laying your first decking board away from the house (not working from house out) do you just calculate how many boards it willl take to fill the deck and work backwards? for example if the deck needed 10 x 100mm boards youd lay your frist one out at 1000mm and work back towards the house? do you account for a couple mm between each board when doing this? Cheers

[@dengshomeinvasions1273]

Yeah that's a good guide easier way is to go online to specrites decking calculator and it tells you how many boards you need

[@vzgsxr]

As a carpenter from Australia, I always enjoy your videos Scott. However I can't help but see the irony in cutting a splay on the top of the posts to stop rot - yet you bury the other end of the post in the concrete which will definitely rot in the future.

[@1petrofski]

If the timber is pressure treated and correct grade for inground use it will last a lot longer. Haunching up concrete and adding waterproof additive will also help prevent wood rot significantly. He did encase timber under and around sides with good cover that will prevent water getting to post. But you are right One day in the future it will rot

[@DiscoFang]

@@1petrofski Someone who gets it. Yes, treated timber lasts even longer when encased in concrete. That one day will be 50-70 years away.

[@mickeybowmeister1944]

I know in Aussie its not common to use timber stumps in ground, here we use precast stumps/posts or galv SHS. Also Kiwi building code doesnt require ant caps at top of pile.

[@vzgsxr]

@@mickeybowmeister1944 Yeah, I once had a supervisor who was from NZ, termite protection was something he regularly forgot about due to the code differences there and here. I still think it's a way better system to use a galvanized post support bracket the bottom of the posts. But each to his own I guess.

[@alexfowler4889]

That Grappa decking smells like puke when you cut it. we used it in one of the houses in Raglan. Mint job man as a builder I love seeing how other builders do things. Keep it up man

[@chuckchai6544]

Beautiful deck, quick question, how do you handle drainage and under deck weed growth?

[@ScottBrownCarpentry]

Drainage depends on the property but you can put a weed Matt down before installing the decking. I talk about it in this video here kzbin.info/www/bejne/aZq2c4esi5djbMU

[@6___________99_____________64]

Why do you concrete the posts in ? Doesn't that cause them to rot faster ?

[@ccardona247able]

Could you tell me what’s the name of that blue straight edge are using it doesn’t look like a level

[@FranciscoMartinez-zv2rw]

As far as I know your not suppose to put the Woden post in the concrete, concrete wicks up moisture and it will rot out the post, I have repaired many wooden fence post.

[@user-qm9xc5gl6k]

Why did you set posts in concrete rather than anchoring them to footers? Not concerned with rot?

[@anxiousappliance]

Won't the concrete eventually eat into the wood - would sono tubes below grade be a safer option.

[@Skittledikk]

Does the concrete not rot the posts over time?

[@whitacrebespoke]

Over a short time I’d say. I don’t know what chemicals the using in NZ but concrete trapping moisture would kill them in 5-10 years here in U.K.

[@dawidrichardson6213]

No because it is most likely h5 treated wood so it doesn’t rot and lasts between 50-100 years depending on the weather circumstances

[@whitacrebespoke]

Dawid Richardson done a bit of reading on this and in NZ it’s still CCA treatment which was banned in Europe and America I believe in 2003 time. So it’s likely it would do 100 years. Where as our non CCA replacement you’d be lucky to get 5 years set in concrete

[@danielmarquardt4341]

@@dawidrichardson6213 There should still be a proper depth of gravel at the bottom to help with drainage

[@DiscoFang]

@@danielmarquardt4341 Drainage from where? All surfaces of the concrete sit in the soil. If you gravel the base all that happens is the voids in the gravel fill with water as any water in the soil searches for a lower pressure area.

[@131rocketman]

iv heard that if you use treated lumber, it will eventually shrink just a bit. if thats the case, do you not need to use those spacers when screwing down the top plants on the deck?

[@soltrain7949]

Timber can expand too hence the spacing

[@SoSimonSays]

how far in do you put your screws on the decking boards? is it 10mm from the edge? curious, im a carpenter myself and love your channel, you'd think getting home from work you wouldnt wanna think about it but im kinda addicted to your videos, not only do i find them entertaining but im also learning from you. Well im a bench joiner but i have dabbled in landscape carpentry and want to do that as a self employed business as i have in the past and want to continue in the future

[@LeonardGarden]

Hmmm, no Camo system to hide the deck screws behind the edges?

[@MrHavokman]

With your next one. Nail you bearers to your piles. Then use vertical pegs to level it all in one go. Then pour concrete. Saves shit loads of time and you can joist while the concrete drys.

[@proficientbuilders7714]

Camo deck fasteners? What type of wood is the decking

[@redtiger546]

Kwela aka png teak

[@QQ-yk8qr]

It is very helpful topic to me! Because I'm studying how to make foundation at polytech these days! Thank you SBC ! (I need study more about Laser level! >>Woops! my poor English. I need to study more about Laser leveling system. )

[@nevyn6071]

Leveling is leveling its just which tool you have that desides what you use. A visible line laser is awesome first thing in the morning or last thing at night or on an overcast day. A rotating visible dot laser is good with a reader and also when it has a remote it can be brighter than a line laser while also possibly having a gradient mode. A non visible rotating laser is good in bright daylight with a reader. A dumpy is very accurate and best with 2 people but can be used on your own by nailing a vertical staff to a post and hanging your tape from the top and reading the dimensions you see from the dumpy. A water level is great if you have no air bubbles in the hose. A theodolite can be used as well in this situation but its a bit extreme. Straight edge and a good level will work well by putting nails in the side of posts to sit the straight edge on. By the way if you are able get the tutors to show the class how to use both the theodolite and the dumpy as they are still the best tools to use on larger sites and most builders don't seam to know how to use a theodolite let alone stadia lines in a dumpy.

[@noremaccystoms2195]

So are joists just guaged timber kd?.looks better than what I getting..

[@skyerskyterror]

Hi Scott! Love the videos! I'm considering tackling a similar job DIY but am unsure how to secure the ribbon plate to a brick veneer wall. Are you able to do a video on it sometime or perhaps leave a reply? Thanks

[@redtiger546]

Same way mate, depends on the bricks if they are hollow you may have to use threaded rod with chemset to fuse them to the masonry

[@BainsRic]

Hey mate, What's the difference between each post?

[@joshylasnow1671]

Hey mate what is the tape called you put between the deck and the bricks?

[@chephillips3629]

DPC damp proof corse

[@o.ggonzalez3470]

Heavy duty deck good job.. Scott

[@silverfox8801]

From a 🇬🇧 seasoned carpenter. Good job buddy 👍👍subbed!! 👊

[@oxon2]

Where in the U.K. are you based I’d like a deck built just like this I’m in Crowthorne Berkshire

[@silverfox8801]

@@oxon2 Hertfordshire buddy. Bit too far? Good luck with your project 👍👍👍

[@bluecurlygirl]

Nice job guys. One question - where's the beer to christen the deck? I'm sure it's compulsory - somewhere.

[@mrbungle7586]

Looks tickety boo bro, nice work. Did you have a small bit of wood with holes in it to use as your spacing when drilling your holes in the decking? I'm subbing to check out what else u2 have been up 2. Cheers 🥂

[@rikharaki7404]

What kind of decking are you using in this video???

[@rayana4250]

I like how you went with the "Level, concrete, wood bla bla bla...", instead of the common (and overused) "And a s**t load of materials and tools...". Job well done and extra point on keeping the channel clean and friendly. And now I'll resume the video to see how you did and let you know what I think about your deck project 😎 To be continued..

[@codyolmstead4907]

those who can't do, teach, you would be a great teacher,

[@codyolmstead4907]

clean and friendly, like your resume probably involves you being a janitor the last 10 years.

[@OMGxTWIX]

Don't fill concrete under the post! the water needs to get out somehow.. put some bolts/big screws in it and fill the concrete around it :) 1:32

[@livens100]

A couple of schools of thought on that. Most bags of concrete tell you to put 4-6" of dry concrete in the hole first and set the post on top of that. Reasoning being that it's better to seal the post up than to have the bottom exposed to the ground where it will constantly be in contact with moist earth. I do privacy fencing in the summer and have pulled up my fair share of old posts. Sealed or open at the bottom, after 20+ years they all rot the same down there :). As for the tops, the posts with a bit of concrete above ground level fair the best.

[@tubestick00]

The post will stay wet whether it is on a bracket or in the concrete or directly on the earth at the bottom of the hole. If it's on a bracket and staying wet its treatment has been severely diminished by cutting slots etc. And removing the most heavily treated surfaces and exposing potentially non treated central inner timber of the post. Plus the fact that a bracket fixed post is far weaker than a post set Into concrete. Setting into the concrete is also cheaper as no expensive bracket and labour installing it onto the bracket, And putting the post directly onto the earth is terrible practice unless your building a fence which only has lateral load. So in short, your wrong, and they did a correct process here in this video. Think outside your box

[@cotelargo238]

Here in Fiji we wrap visqueen around the treated pine post, put concrete in the hole, allow it to dry, put the post in, fill in the concrete and shape a cone on the concrete above the soil level.

[@klearman9612]

What’s the minimum span between post in Nz?

[@SashaXXY]

Why are the beams 2x6? Could you use 4x4 for beams? If that's against regulations, what's the thinking there? Thanks in advance!

[@barakau]

How is the bearer attached to the posts?

[@germokopli3018]

Thanks

[@ryankojabashian9599]

Hi, love all your videos. I have a question. Do you guys ever use brackets to attach posts to concrete piers instead of burying the posts? Seems like everyone recommends that method here in the US because of post rot. Planning a big off grid tiny house and trying to decide which way to go. Want it to last, but I like the simplicity of just burying the posts with concrete. Thanks!

[@1petrofski]

Good idea like that thought , Concrete post will need some reinforcing in. Here in South Africa we use H4 pressure treated timber set in concrete for posts.Apparently the treatment keeps out insects , mould, and damp issues to a certain point. But that concrete post idea is great long-term. Thanks

[@bartbug1]

Love your channel, but just a question: Would it not have been easier to set up profiles to get your deck measurements? Not a critique but just though it may be easier on u guys to set up profiles, get your width/length. Great vid though, luv the channel always new things to learn of other Chippys.

[@terryw4477]

Hi Scott, question for you or to anyone else that knows, what is the name of the fixings you use to fix the plate to the house wall? Cheers

[@Benjamin-ic7ip]

dynabolts. or trubolts. ankascrews work too

[@DiscoFang]

@@Benjamin-ic7ip Ankascrews aren't specifcally designed for the type of shock and shear load of a stringer/ledger. They're more suitable for perpendicular load anchoring like a bottom plate. (edit: or on a vertical surface - a gate hinge.)

[@antony110169]

No compacted gravel required under the concrete?

[@ianlogan5325]

Usually dig to minimum required depth or to solid(ish) ground. Which ever is deeper. Elevate the piles so the concrete flows underneath. I usual lift them around 100mm/ 4 inches

[@philrabe910]

You guys have stiff decking, we have safe sets. Movie sets, that is. I'd love a Vitex job, it's the kind of thing we might see on a very high end home in the Berkeley hills overlooking San Francisco bay. Lots of exotic wood species decking them thar hills.

[@blondeldavid9580]

Where I am I was taught to never ever let wood in contact to the soil am I crazy?????

[@victormanzella933]

he used pressure treated lumber, which won't rot or weaken in contact with the soil

[@Ogilla]

Victor Manzella It's gonna rot even if it's pressure treated... It's just gonna take more time.

[@AgentSmith82]

would have used yellow tongue as a spacer between the decking boards

[@loganx77]

Subcribed!!! ;) very entertaining... good job!

[@allanjak]

What variety of decking is that mate?

[@Bold_bezels]

How many hours of day work is it?

[@JL-ku4ef]

Why not use quikset concrete?

[@h3llnite]

1:47 Happy if you’ are happy bro 😂😂😂

[@ilaughalot6556]

Lmao good duo. Super chill.

[@honumoorea873]

Bad idea to put post in the concrete, wood shoild be disconnected from concrete. Some water and humidity here will degrade wood. Concrete in the groud, metal bracket then wood post.. and it will last.

[@Nickanoms88]

I make sure to calibrate my lasers - dumpy and even line lasers every 2 years to ensure accuracy

[@nexxt.4105]

Good times

[@julzylil]

Fuck awesome video bro , best chippy to watch on KZbin 🙌❤️😂

[@SirTT0401]

Try camo fastner for tour deck next time

[@adrianshepherd8119]

Super interesting gents!! Just wondering if you treated or painted the posts before you pored the concrete?

[@ScottBrownCarpentry]

Cheers man, The posts come pressure treated to a pretty high-chemically-grade. Thanks for watching

[@totaspinn]

when the material has a greenish colour its imprignated with chemicals

[@ebayturnerjjn6851]

All that beautiful gear, and no kneepads. Tut tut, quality craftsmanship though.

[@alexfowler4889]

Needs to be H5 to be on the concert.

[@fanaticz666]

@@alexfowler4889 outside or in the soil underground I thought h5 was for?

[@lissataylor12345]

Great video but the music is doing strange things when it tries to play.

[@ZenMuff1n]

Regulations in my country state that beams of wood can't touch the concrete at all. Some people have it so easy... :/

[@connorsmith713]

the fuck are they supposed to touch then? what country is this