How to Build a Kiteboard: Foam Core Carbon Twin Tip Kiteboard Build

[@ChrisCanMakeStuff]

Only a skilled/brave person laminates in a Patagonia puffy. Kudos to you!

[@FiberglassSupply]

Lol, Thanks!

[@glennerickson4110]

How much would it cost to make this board, materials only? How much does it weigh?

[@IdahoBrotherInChrist]

Great video man 🤙

[@FiberglassSupply]

Appreciate it!

[@Fabio-hb4vt]

HI. How much vacuum is needed?

[@leonpieters5696]

Great video. Im curious how well the board is holding out, were the layers of reinforcement enough? How thick is the foam core?

[@FiberglassSupply]

The finished foam core is about 0.52" thick. I am going to do another video soon showing 3 boards (the poplar core, a balsa core, and this one) and how they have held up. Since you asked this one did in fact break, it broke from impact to the heel area on both feet, cracking the laminate from the midpoint of the board (vertical midpoint) to the heelside edges (and through the edge) When I noticed the damage on it, it probably had around 30-40 sessions on it. I have since repaired it with 3 or 4 layers of 6oz glass over the damaged area and the heel area and probably have around 12 sessions on it now with no signs of issues. If I build another one with a foam core I will either add laminate to that area or replace the foam in the heel area with balsa. I also have a video that I'll put up of damage and repair.

[@laisvunaslabanauskas94]

So you run the vacuum pump with additional epoxy? Or you just suck air out?

[@FiberglassSupply]

We are using an epoxy putty to glue the skins together, we use the vacuum bag to create a clamp that holds everything in place while the resin cures. To recap- we apply epoxy putty to the skins and place them on the core, then stick the whole thing on the rocker table, seal a vacuum bag over it and then evacuate the air with the pump to clamp the glued core in place on the rocker table.

[@Logopai]

Awesome video! What epoxy did you use for the edge? I found epoxy would chip so I switched to urethane which worked well. Also, gotta be careful with T nuts for inserts as it's easy to push out the back. You can get a closed back version made for inserts pretty cheap. Might be a great item to carry in the shop.

[@FiberglassSupply]

I used Pro-Set's rubber toughened epoxy for the edge pour, straight resin with just a powder pigment for color. I've done 3 others that we used Resin Research with Bubbles in it and so far no chipping on any of them. The RR with bubbles I probably have around 100 sessions on, at some point I will have a video on those boards, we did them with balsa core and they came out nice (just not as good looking as the carbon). The first board we did with urethane the last couple times we went with epoxy to try it out (specifically the rubber toughened) and because we have a lot of it in stock (and don't stock urethane (yet)). Yes you are correct that you have to be careful on the T-nuts to not go all the way through or push out the laminate. I'll look into the closed back ones, if you have a link to some feel free to shoot me an e-mail with them [e-mail]

[@martispajarskas]

Hey Matt, nice videos. May I ask a few things? What was the density of the foam? What was the thickness in the middle of the board, and on the ends (foam core, without the carbon)? How many layers of carbon on one side? and what was the weight of the voven (4 or 6 oz probably?) Thx, best wishes, MP

[@FiberglassSupply]

Thanks. H-80 divinycell 5lb per cubic foot, 0.52" (13mm) thick in the middle, 0.20" (5mm) thick at the ends, one layer of 6oz carbon and 1 layer of 6oz glass (S-2 glass) on each side. That laminate was not thick enough over the foam in the heel areas I would either add 3-4 more layers of glass under the heels (or carbon, doesn't really matter the skin just needs to be thicker) or insert balsa or plywood under the heels. Other than that the board rides great and is really light.

[@Steve2Smith]

This is an awesome video, are you able to list all the parts needed? I'd like to order the carbon tow, glass, and threaded t fitting hardware but can't find it on your site. Know where to source the remaining inputs? I'm ready to build, just looking for all the pieces to order!

[@FiberglassSupply]

Steve, I know Jason is working with you on this. The carbon we'll have back in stock this week. I'd get the T-fittings from McMaster Carr. We used 1/4"-20 but I think they have a M6 that is 9mm high that should work too (M6 is the standard hardware size for commercial kiteboards and fins). Make sure they are stainless.

[@lovetofly32]

I wish you would mention the size of these boards youre making. That one looked a little smaller. I'm trying to decide if mines too small. I have a 134 cm.

[@FiberglassSupply]

The small one is 132cm x 40cm and the big one is 147 cm x 44 (plus or minus a cm those numbers are from the computer model I don't have the boards right here with me). I probably use the small one about 75% of the time now. Selecting board size is going to depend on a number of factors like how powered up you are riding, what kind of riding you are doing, what the wind quality is like, and how much you weigh. A week and a half ago I kited Hood River when it was gusting from 14-40, to not get destroyed by the gusts I took a 6M kite out and to compensate for the lulls I used the big board, it worked pretty good. If I am doing a down winder or in an area where I can surf on the twin tip I'll also go with the bigger board as the additional surface area really helps it surf or glide better. If I am powered up or doing a lot of jumping I prefer the smaller board (less swing weight, lighter, and easier to hold an edge).

[@simonac688.]

Great tuto realy interesting stuff but if possible the background music is ...🙄

[@FiberglassSupply]

Noted!

[@skinnykingspade]

Do you make wakeboards? I have a 3.5 year old and they don’t make a small enough board on the market! Please send me a message

[@pro-touringf-body5179]

super imposing that music over voice is annoying.