How to build a Propane Forge Burner

This (rather long and agonizing detailed) video will show you how to build a simple propane burner that can be used in a blacksmith's forge using fairly simple tools (no machining). This burner, when used in a properly insulated small forge, can produce enough heat for forge welding.
My small forge is an eight inch (OD) tube, eight inches long, with two inches of coated thermal blanket. It has a solid refractory floor. I use soft fire brick for doors.
Metalwork is a hobby for me. As such, I don't sell things I make.
If you want to purchase a professionally made burner that is similar in design, I have a friend that makes them for sale. His name is Steve Genshiemer. I have no business relationship with Steve, but I can personally vouch that he makes a great burner. You can reach him at [phone].
Using this type of equipment is inherently dangerous. Use this information at your own risk.
PLEASE BE CAREFUL.

[@StutleyConstable]

Thank you very much for this! Finally someone who speaks clearly and to the point, without rambling stories, has made an instructional video. Especially grateful for the clear images of the parts and the detailed description of each step in the process. I would rate this as ten out of ten if KZbin had a rating system.

[@djhammerd]

It sounds like you made the right decision for you. Making a forge, as I described, does require you to have significant tools and skills to use them. I had a welder, drill press, and a lot of hand tools before I ever focused on blacksmithing and building my own forges. If you have a desire to learn welding, take an adult learning class at a local college or high school. That's what I did over 40 years ago and I was off and running. Your inventory of tools will grow as your interest does.

[@williambland3201]

Just watched your forge and burner assy videos. I have made several myself and despite what your critics say I think you have done a good job. No one is born knowing how to do this stuff and not everyone understands what maybe obvous to others.

[@adrianarnold6499]

One of the best tutorial videos I have had the pleasure of watching. Complete and detailed enough to actually build a safe and functional burner, short enough to forestall boredom. Good Job, Mr Hammer. Adrian (Owner of A2 Metal Art).

[@rodneylangton2271]

Hi Dave ,I have made up a burner for my new brick forge using information from your video,set up burner in vice , lit it and did a few adjustments to flare and it works great. Dave thanks for the information

[@JDHR35]

I remember when I had no idea what I was doing when it game to Building this kind of thing. Now I've studied High pressure gasses along with a LOT of other subjects, I understand what you're doing. Very good video, and a fantastic burner. well done!

[@stanmankovich822]

Thank you for your prompt reply. I already had a higher pressure regulator on order thinking that may be the issue. I must compliment you on the quality of your videos, the content is presented in a manner that is easy and enjoyable to follow...thanks, Butch

[@HammerMan999]

Thanks... Good luck with your projects in the future.

[@popsynthyarby5055]

Thank you for the long and agonizingly detailed information! Impatient people forget that they can skip to the information they want. I needed ALL of it. My forge is coming along well.

[@HammerMan999]

+Popsynth Yarby ..... Your welcome....

[@tealgunner]

Great video Dave. I really enjoy your attention to detail and the ease with which you show how to actually build the burner. I am in the infancy of studying blacksmithing, bladesmithing, and knifemaking and still don't know exactly what I want to do, but building a propane forge is number one on the agenda. Your gas bottle forge body and this burner is EXACTLY what I was looking for. Thanks for making it so simple.

[@sepulchre10]

Got mine working with a 1" reducer. Just ordered the two quick connect pieces from Jet for $21.88 w/free shipping. Thanks a million, David. This video is Excellent!

[@HammerMan999]

Thank you... and you are welcome....

[@VEightMerc124]

Ahhh I see. Ok it makes sense now. Gas to air mix...A modular system for servicing. (I made a pot still and designed it to be modular for servicing and storing, I should have applied that common sense here) Thank you, your vid and replies have helped me a lot.

[@albertoq3992]

I so pleased with the results, my burner flame has a perfect blue color, thanks again for your video, I will post again when I finish my new furnace. I have all the proper equipment and I will upload a small video, to show you the results.

[@danvolk1]

Dave does a perfect job demonstrating this burner. i have tried the other designs available online and this was the clear winner. I only hope i can give back as much useful information someday. I didn't have a 12 deg mandrel available and was able to use the ball peen of a hammer in a vise to make a perfectly functional flare.

[@raymondjoh2098]

danvolk1 h

[@foxbag3748]

Outstanding video! I've been toiling with this for a month, trying to figure out what burner to build... and how... THIS is what I will do. Thanks for the effort in putting this up, i'll be watching it repeatedly over the next week or two.

[@drew11pd]

Great vid. Clear and concise. Great to show the make, model and retailers of all the parts. I wish they were all this way. Bravo.

[@danielklinglesmithv2732]

this video was a breath of fresh air. much respect.

[@LearnLoveTeach]

Thank you so very much for this incredibly helpful tutorial. I made my first flare with plumbing torch heat and hammering it on an anvil tip. A few of the parts from my hardware store were a little different but I made sure to use the right size mig tip and line it up with the air intake holes. It worked incredibly well right away! Thank you again!

[@HammerMan999]

Thanks... I'm glad it worked well for you...

[@paulharding4907]

Hi I built a burner based upon the design and followed your instruction. I fired it up for the first time and it worked a treat. I need to procure some SS for a better flare but would like to say a big thanks for the video on YT.

[@djhammerd]

You are welcome.

[@terryashton9213]

Very nice. Thanks for your time David. I will be buying a pre made Tank Forge, and hopefully, can build one of your Burners.

[@HammerMan999]

Good luck... Keep in mind that one of these burners will support a burn chamber of up to 300 cubic inches.

[@jgardner2190]

First, I really appreciate the time and effort putting together this video! It was very helpful and informative. I just recently finished building one as shown in the video, with a couple of slight modifications. First, I added a sleeve to adjust the amount of air flow (got the idea from Michael Porters book). It seems to be a helpful add-on. Second, I personally had a very difficult time getting the burner to work with a .025, & .030 tip. But I finally had success w/ a .035 tip. Thanks!

[@1996abbi]

Quite likely the best video series I've seen yet (and I've seen hundreds). Very well put together. I'm going to follow the directions and build a forge this week. Thanks!

[@GBDGhotbear]

:-) I saw a lot of video's for DIY forge burner's but his one is the best so far . lot's of information and how to build it .. thank you sir for posting this.

[@bpccDCin2020]

Don't do metal work, so I don't need or want a forge; however, I found the info in your vid to be VERY interesting. Great job in the logical flow of the presentation. Thank you for using still frames where they were most useful and for NOT subjecting us viewers to long sequences of trivial, repetitive tasks. Wish more 'tubers would use these techniques!

[@israfelstrumpet1818]

Thank You... iv been trying different configurations (ranging from pipe sizes, to air supply amounts) for the past 9 hours. i guess it never crossed my mind to check online for a detailed instructional video... (my burners are comically complex (and ineffective) compared to this simple and effective burner)... thanks again! and god bless (from Illinois!)

[@ginsboy2003]

Thanks a lot for taking the time to share your knowledge.

[@wolfywolf6795]

It works really good, just been looking for a killer burner (have it made for 3 burners) and your's seems the best so far... Thanks for the great vid!!!!

[@superbreastman]

Really complete video Dave. Thanks for sharing your precious experience. Ciao!

[@garyc5483]

Excellent video. Just what I was looking for many thx for sharing.

[@jimh7345]

Hi David, I found your video a few week ago. Your description for everything was very easy to follow. I'm in the process of building 2 of these burners. They are about 90% complete. I just need to drill and tap the holes for the mig tip....then assemble everything....and test. I'll let you know how it goes. Jim

[@yodamann5193]

Very well done, I am going to build and use it to mod my "Rocket Stove " to run on NG and LP Cheers

[@josemarquez5337]

This was fantastically informative! thank you very much for your time.

[@kerrywil1]

Thank you for spending the time to product this video I really enjoyed it

[@Soulsmithing]

Great tutorial with lots of important details mentioned. Congrats and thank you!

[@HammerMan999]

Thank you....

[@jaredgaines4727]

I really liked your video about building a burner. A lot of good information. Thank you.

[@micahdavidcoate]

Thanks David, That helps. I appreciate it. I also found a drift / mandrel that I think will work well for flaring the tip. Keep up the good work! Micah C.

[@albertoq3992]

Thanks for your fast respond, my burn chamber will have a 387 cubic inches, but I can modify that, taking your suggestion into consideration to improve my results.Tomorrow I will shop all the parts to make my burner.

[@benton537]

Great vid Mr Hammer, very informative, thank you

[@petergrassel3973]

great job ! thank you, for your time and effort , in making this video

[@WessexBladesHandMadeKnives]

very comprehensive tutorial,,many thanks for sharing this!

[@Kevin_KC0SHO]

David, once I installed the burner into my forge everything runs great. I use the 025 tip for nearly everything and I have the airflow wide open by sliding the orifice all the way back. I could not get it to burn correctly in atmosphere, but into different forges of different sizes, one being a coffee cayenne and one being a turkey fryer, it worked great. Thanks for your help.

[@djhammerd]

+Kevin C .... That's a fairly common occurrence... I didn't say it in the video (I should have). When a burner is in a forge, it gets back pressure from the burn chamber so it acts differently. I expect that makes up for whatever issue prevents the burner from working outside the forge (like a burr in the pipe... or the orifice not being pointed straight down the tube.... sometimes even altitude will affect how a burner works).

[@dougjpreece]

Hi Dave, Thanks for posting this. I have just built two of these and they work great! The only difference I made was that insteqad of a stainless steel flare, I used a 1" kiln shelf spacer. These are about 2" square with a 1" hole through the centre and are made of high temp ceramics - ~$1.00. I used a 12" 3/4" nipple cut down to 9" but leaving the thread on the output side. I then threaded the kiln spacer onto the threads. The other difference is that I used an .035 MIG tip. Thanks again

[@herrmc]

Nice Video: Look forward to the video on building the forge.

[@oldtrail100]

A very great video. most informing. Thanks for posting all your videos.

[@reedcooper6545]

Great job Dave!!

[@barronredneck]

Excellent video thanks for all your work on it you have help me alot.

[@ATandy]

great vid mate cheers for sharing it!

[@platoguy69]

Good video excellent explaining everything I loved it is definitely the best video that I've seen in a long time

[@AMakersJourney]

Hello David, just wanted to say thanks for the videos. I made your forge and your burner. Then I made cowboy hat. Thank you

[@HammerMan999]

I have to say..... You just made my day. You're welcome and THANK YOU!

[@workaholic00772]

Very informative video & good design I appreciate you sharing the info I was able to gather the needed components and build myself one without any problems and had very little time invested in doing so. THANKS

[@HammerMan999]

You are welcome!

[@djhammerd]

Doug.... Thanks for the video. I'm definitely going to pursue looking at your alternative for a flare. I'm not sure how hot kiln's get, but if the spacer stays in place and doesn't burn up, it should be a good improvement. Great idea! I like your music also....

[@mitchellhoffarth8339]

I got the burner to finally light!! Turns out my problem was to cold of a propane cylinder. I had been trying to light the torch in 40-45 degree weather so I just warmed up the propane cylinder in the bath tub and now the torch works great!!!

[@jnlaf]

very nicely done great info..

[@stevengoodell6933]

I'm hooked, Thanks for your wonderful advise and wisdom your easy to understand and and a blessing as a teacher. i will be enjoying your other videos, thanks again

[@HammerMan999]

You are welcome.... If you decide to build a Super C forge, send me a message,.... I have some updates for the build and lining videos.... Good Luck.

[@pixelsnbits]

Thanks David! Great video!

[@Ray_Morris]

Good info. Thanks David!

[@manuelgozo]

Great Demo Sir. thanks for the lesson.. Regards all the way from Malta Europe....

[@RickRabjohn]

Dave thanks so much for this detailed and well done video which has helped me a lot. Cheers!

[@HammerMan999]

You are welcome....

[@FireByDragon]

Long and agonizing detailed ... but worth every minute!

[@RaysGarage]

Hello David, This has to be one of the best burner designs I have seen and will be making two of these for my first forge build. Thank you for the excellent detail and great still pictures. I am now off to HomeDepot... Best Regards, Ray

[@HammerMan999]

Home Depot may not carry the 1/4 inch black pipe fittings anymore. Check at other hardware stores (not Lowe's). If you can't find them locally, you certainly can find them online at plumbing suppliers... Good luck!

[@RaysGarage]

You are correct, HD does not carry 1/4" black iron pipe fittings why, I don't know... I finished machining the burner tubes yesterday and will be making the bells today then a test fire! Oh did I mention I still need to build the forge! Thanks again David, Cheers!

[@HammerMan999]

You are welcome!

[@tbssic1]

I am 70 years old, and the last person I heard say, "water pump pliers", was my Grandfather, maybe 30 years ago. Sweet.......

[@HammerMan999]

My dad called them that.....

[@williamemery2036]

I'm 74 years old, and I still call them "water pump pliers

[@luthertullis4809]

i know its a old post. but i have call them water pump pliers all my life ,my dad called them that so thats how come i do to. 62 years old here

[@Soulsmithing]

I'm 40 and I don't ;-) (just teasing you guys...)

[@BradleyStogsdill]

Great Video. Thanks!

[@Hellgap50]

well done thanks for the tips.

[@micahdavidcoate]

Thanks David - I can make another burner to allow for the bigger burn chamber. I didn't think of that. Yes, there will be an opening on one end. I thought it could be used as a exhaust, but wanted to be sure since I've seen some forges with an opening and exhaust. My bricks are soft and I will not be doing any forge welding (for the most part). Thanks again, I'll start looking through your other videos. Appreciate the quick response, Henry C.

[@heliarche]

I just did this build. Not as refined as yours but it works amazing. Thanks for sharing this!

[@mangravy2000]

heliarche Did you use a regulator or go straight from the tank?

[@heliarche]

Ed Floody Straight off the tank.

[@HammerMan999]

heliarche You are welcome...

[@djhammerd]

Steel pipe will work fine. When I look for stainless pipe to make flares, I just take a piece of burner pipe with me to test fit. The ID's of commercially available stainless vary. The flare should easily slide, but not be sloppy. As described in the video, I position the end of the mig tip in the center of the holes closest to the flare end of the pipe. If you have problems with the flame, you can play with the position of the end of the mig tip. Some folks have used .030 mig tips also.

[@canvasman34]

Hi, Excellent video and comments. I build small furnaces for gold and silver melting and pouring. I build them to use standard air/propane torches (BernzOmatic TS800 or the Red Dragon 50,000 BTU roofing torch). I will build this burner for the new furnaces I am making. Thanks for the parts detail and sources, you went above and beyond. Paul.

[@lostmychances]

Hi David thanks for the reply im actually using this burner for a aluminium foundry. Its a steel frame with fire bricks for now im going to pack with fire blanket to improve the lining. I have used a 1mm welding tip in mine. My opening is a 120mm hole in the lid. I will get a video up to show what i have built for you to have a look.

[@djhammerd]

They are a GREAT supplier. If you view my material sources video, you will see that I buy most of my refractory supplies from them (bricks, thermal blanket, mortar, rammable refractory, etc).

[@mikeklevgard6183]

great helpfull informational video,,, thanks for taking the time to explain the process and parts

[@HammerMan999]

You are welcome....

[@sadi3230]

Thanks good explanation nice job.

[@mohammedkanan1964]

Good job ;)

[@rafaelvargas6419]

THANK YOU Mr. David

[@davidsmith-kh8cs]

What I have is a 17 y/o turbo torch. The one with the interchangeable quick connect tips. Back then we called it a rose bud. It's already set up for propane. I'm hoping that it might be a good place to start in building my forge. thanks.

[@djhammerd]

I made the drift. I don't know where you could purchase one. The most I run the pressure is probably 35 PSI. You should run at a suitable pressure to maintain the forge temperature you need. Generally, I set the pressure at 10-15 PSI to start the forge. I increase the pressure to 25 or so till my steel is hot enough to forge, then turn the pressure down a bit. I leave my regulator cranked all the way to the highest pressure. Open and close the needle valve to set the pressure.

[@nokomisforge]

the video is very good one thing not needed is the flare fitting on the end the insulation in the forge will do the same thing

[@XxfrogsrcoolxX]

Awesome video! I am in the process of making this burner and was wondering where exactly you can find flared burner tips. I have looked on my normal sources and failed to find anything.

[@djhammerd]

I haven't played with using a sleeve as you suggest, but there are other burner designs out there that do. It would be easy to experiment by using a slider over the pipe (like a 1" pipe over a 3/4" pipe with a set or thumb screw to hold it in position) if modifying the air intake will accomplish what you want. The best results would probably be attained by being able to adjust the burner after the forge is hot. My goal was to keep the build, test and use process as simple as possible....

[@tostamoveis]

otima ideia vou construir um obg

[@acklan3]

I use an acetylene regulator. It will screw directly into the bottle and has a high side (3000 psi) and low side (150 psi) gauge. I purchased mine on ebay for less than $50. Works very well.

[@nickwoo2]

What are the adapters called for the propane hose to 1/4?

[@shmeet]

Wow! What a belt sander!

[@djhammerd]

Thanks... I hope you had good luck.

[@Beby]

Me again! I've probably seen your video a dozen times by now. Couple of more questions: 1- You've attached quick connects from the needle valve to the T with the pressure gauge so you can take it out when you want right? If I'm not planning to use anywhere else Propane brass fittings would suffice correct? 2- What connectors did you use to connect the needle valve on both ends?

[@HammerMan999]

You are correct, the pressure gauge doesn't need to be on a quick connect. Just be sure the pressure gauge is next to the burner. The needle valves I buy have female threads on each end. I use short 1/4 inch NPT nipples (less than an inch long) to connect to the other fittings. If the big box store you go to doesn't sell black iron nipples, they should have brass ones (a little more pricey, but it saves a trip to a plumbing supply)

[@halilkoptur9911]

@@HammerMan999 0 @frekansiz_kej

[@pcesalvador]

Very good.

[@djhammerd]

I have forge welded mild steel in my forges, but haven't made any projects with tool steel where I wanted to forge weld it with these particular burners. I have made layered steel (some call damascus), including the use of old files that are reported to be 1095 (if that is tool steel) with similar venturi burners using pressures between 20 and 30 pounds. I expect these burners would perform the same. I am aware that blown burners can produce very high temps at low gas pressures.

[@djhammerd]

The coupler that slides into the 3/4 inch pipe needs to be a 1/4 inch coupler. Obviously, you need a 1/4 inch fitting to connect to that on the burner side. Other fittings and hose size outside the burner can be any size you want to use.

[@VEightMerc124]

The over all setup of the orfice set up is really clean and professional looking. I was trying to design one (inside my head that is simple and clean), but this is one that I will model. My question is if you can shorten the entire setup? Basically shorten the gap between the orfice and flare end. (maybe I missed the reason in the video). Also, can I have my orfice set up welded into the tank its self? Is it neccesary to hold it in with set screws? (im talkin about the flared end and the tank)

[@djhammerd]

One more possibility, if you want more indirect heating, is to bring the burners up from the bottom on one side of the forge. The end of the flares would still be down in the floor an inch. I have a friend who makes hammers that has his forge set up that way. It definitely would be better for heat treating. Burners coming down from the top (even at an angle) will result in hot spots in the forge. Burners that come up from the floor on one side should not result in uneven heating.

[@djhammerd]

If the flame goes out.... you may need to change the propane pressure (close or open the needle valve a bit), check the alignment of the mig tip (it needs to point straight down the cener of the pipe or change the placement of the flare (move it up or down just a little). Good luck.....

[@SPQRLegionVIII]

THANK YOU DAVID!!!!!!! We just completed our burner and we are amazed at how much better it works. The only problem we have had is that our flare is getting cherry red - orange. I don't know if this is a problem or not and if so what should we change? THANKS AGAIN!!!!!

[@50griz]

Many thanks for sharing this. I watched this video several times a couple years ago, and I've gathered all the burner parts you recommended. Just to be sure, where you used all steel or black pipe for the fittings, is it ok and safe to use brass, it's just that I happen to have enough on hand. Also the actual forge body I'd like to use is a fairly heavy round air tank, about 14" diameter x 28" long. With that size, lined with fire brick on the bottom 3 bricks wide end to end, and with ceramic wool on up across the top with maybe 4-6" holes at each end of the tank for access and aspiration. Considering all that, and the tank being that long, how would it be if I put two of your suggested burners to heat the forge? I already have the proper high heat digital thermometer to monitor the temperature. My idea of a longer forge is to accommodate linear projects. Thanks again. Btw, one more thing, I've noticed some others aren't sure where or how to acquire the stainless pipe for the flare., I ordered mine through Zoro Tool as a short nipple, I think 12 or 14 inches, I can't recall the price, but I didn't think it was real expensive. They have an ebay store too. Just a tip.

[@solorip]

Great video. I'm building one of these at the moment. Could you tell me what the adapters are on the hose. My hose is 3/8 left hand thread and need to bring it down to 3/4 right hand thread. Also is the mig tip 0.6 or 0.8 mm

[@djhammerd]

Thank you.

[@hexusziggurat]

Thermal blanket walls...called kaowool in Canada. Ask any boiler making supplier (industrial) for "castable refractory" and you can make a form complete with the holes on the top of the forge for the burners. High rating refractory bricks can also be found from boiler suppliers. Ask and pulp mills where they get their supplies or any kiln company.

[@djhammerd]

Each individual's cost will depend upon how good they are at scrounging and how they buy the materials they need to. My costs are low at a forge level because I am good at scrounging (steel recyclers) and, when I need purchased materials, I buy larger quantities than you may. The largest cost to me is the regulator, hose, needle valve, gauge and quick connects (and the few fittings that are needed to put them together). That cost is about $100 (all for high quality items).

[@leterpou7111]

guys i have a question, so i quickly grabed some metal tube and rubber and construted a quick torch burner but the design was similar to this model,i tested it with a butane canister but instead of working ( some of the butane came out of the air holes) i didn't manage to get much of a strong flame.do you think it is the problem with the aerosol canister's psi? or did i not make it right?

[@mangravy2000]

Thanks for sharing such a well produced video. Video detail was not agonizing at all. I think all videos should be produced like yours. Thank you again for sharing! Any idea what max working temperature your forge will produce?

[@djhammerd]

+Ed Floody A while back, I used an Infrared thermometer to check and, at that time, the forge would get to around 2900 degrees F. Keep in mind, any forge has to be properly lined to reach that temperature.

[@Beby]

Hi Dave, what length do you recommend for the propane hose to make it safer?

[@HammerMan999]

As long as you can keep your hose away from any heat source and it doesn't get in the way of the operation of your forge (including putting in and taking out hot metal), it should be safe. Personally, I don't like hoses that are a lot longer than a direct arch from the burner to the tank. The hose on the forge I use the most is only 5 feet long (I use 30 and 40 pound propane tanks that sit on the floor). A little extra length (beyond just that arch) is necessary to have so the forge can be turned or moved a little (without tugging on the tank) if I need to accommodate a project held up by outside support. I also like to keep the tank within a couple feet of the base of my forge (pedestal stand) so I can easily turn the valve on and off. To start my forge, I turn off a ball valve at the burner, then open the tank valve, after which I crack the ball valve a bit and toss in a match (I control the volume and pressure of propane with a commercial needle valve on the burner side from the ball valve). I ALWAYS shut down my forge by closing the tank valve.

[@Beby]

Thank you so much for your detailed response!

[@Beby]

I'm getting a hose with a male 1/4" connector and a female 3/8" connector. I see yours had 2 female connectors which you converted to male. What's the name of those two small male to male connectors?

[@djhammerd]

To me, they are just connectors or fittings. I suggest you take your hose to a store (home depot, Lowes, etc) that sell brass fittings and ask for help looking of the fittings you need.

[@joethew9780]

Im going to lay down boy i dont feel right bbbbvbb

[@dericcormier38]

great vid , i think the best one yet, ive made one very simular to yours but i cannot get the flame like a torch, the only diference is the holes may be too small and i dont have a needle valve, is that something of importance, please let me know

[@Dustendee]

Thanks for the Video David, I have made one of these burners and at first it had a nice medium to long flame but I forgot to seal up all threaded parts and it would start to sputter and flame would come out of those threaded parts, since then I have sealed up everything but the flame seems to be on the low side now and doesn't seem to be as strong also I cant really turn it up to much higher or lower, it goes out either way? any ideas? I posted my first burn and then low burn, Thanks!