How To Build an Acoustic Guitar. Episode 9 (Gluing In a Neck and Heel Block)

[@davegoddin]

Been looking forward to the return of this series, it's really taking shape now! Great to see how much the channel's grown recently, you guys have been punching way above your sub count when it comes to quality content.

[@migrantfamily]

Not only will the figured cedar that no one will see look really nice, it will also smell great. Good choice!

[@Dreams_Of_Lavender]

Gotta love luthiery content on KZbin. Can't wait to put my own guitar together someday :3

[@tim-hypnotherapist]

Just loving this series. Keep us the fantastic work.

[@ADFinlayson]

I'm all over the salt trick, I've used it for my last few builds for headstock veneers, fretboards and tops, no need for locator pins and no slippage. Saves a lot of time.

[@russellcameronthomas2116]

Has anyone done a chemical and mechanical analysis to see if salt diffused into glue changes it’s properties or the performance of the bond? Does any salt diffuse into the wood? (Once salt dissolves into water, it goes everywhere the water goes.)

[@ADFinlayson]

@@russellcameronthomas2116 we're talking literally just a few grains of salt, not enough to chemically alter anything.

[@russellcameronthomas2116]

@@ADFinlayson Like I said, it would be interesting to see chemical and mechanical analysis to support this intuition

[@louishayes2173]

Late to the party, so I bet someone has already mentioned this. Use your mold and a spreader bar that runs the length of the mold as the clamp. Packing tape prevents you from gluing the sides to the mold. You can do both blocks at once if your brave! As always 40 ways to skin this. Thanks for the salt tip. I have never had a method I liked for my headstock veneer sandwich. I'm looking forward to trying that.

[@TempleGuitars]

I came here just to ask why that wasn't being done already? It would be even simpler to just use the body mould and some clamps, with a bit of greaseproof paper between the sides and the mould where the gluing is going to happen.

[@tonybrooks476]

Those moulds are so cool.

[@davidgandy9813]

Loved the salt technique. I use tape on the cauls when I don't have enough hands. Love this series as a guitar player and a woodworker. Gonna build my first acoustic this winter.

[@karffiol]

You seem always well prepared and have thought through your processes... I am surprised you don't have any jig for block gluing yet.

[@TheAciddragon069]

a simple spring clamp would have saved a huge headache. he could have used the method as shown just spring clamp one end so he has both hands for the other then replace the spring clamp with a good one

[@DriftwoodGuitars]

We now sell hand selected and resawn Tonewoods on our website! Each piece was found by Chris Alvarado, and almost always has a story to go along with it. Go check out the selection at www.driftwoodguitars.com/tonewood

[@charlesbranch4120]

Have you considered lining the jig with wax paper in the area to glue the heel block and end block to the sides while they rest in the jig?

[@ClaytonwFirth]

Thanks guys. I know you don’t like cutaways with 3000 year old tops, but it would be nice to see your approach on a future build.

[@aboveallthingslove6349]

Another way of getting pieces to align is to apply the glue and put the pieces together and pull them apart a few times until the glue creates fine threads like silk, this means the glue is thickening to a tacky surface and can be applied together and aligned to be clamped without the movement or slide that you typically get otherwise. Take a little dab of glue on your finger and do the same thing between two of them and you will be surprised how fast you can achieve the fine threads that happen when repeatedly pull them apart, now see how well they hold together if you keep them together for a few seconds. You have to spread the glue on both workpieces so it penetrates for good results. Try it and I think you may find occasions where it can be useful. P.S. I would love to see more of your Tiny Workbench Concerts.

[@DriftwoodGuitars]

Great tip! I’ll try it out.

[@larscw74]

With how much fun you guys seem to have while making the video's, how do you get any work done :-)It's cool to see how working and fun can go hand in hand. I was surprised seeing you didn't use clamps that you made yourself, as I see that a lot with guitar builders.

[@bldallas]

Another “trick” to prevent sliding while gluing, is to tap two or more tiny brad nails into the bottom piece of wood. Then nip off the heads, at an angle, with just a small amount sticking out. Finally, position the top piece of wood and thump it with a rubber mallet. This allows you to separate the two pieces and apply the glue. It’s also easy to pull out (or pound in)the brads and redo it, if it doesn’t line up properly the first time.

[@geamax1]

Awesome work Chris.

[@scottakam]

Cool. I'm sure there's a good reason for how you glue the blocks. Seems like it might be easier to glue them to both sides at the same time in the form.

[@ObjectiveDynamics]

My thoughts exactly. Although that's probably why I'm not paid to make guitars for a living. I'd be interested to know though

[@hobiecat901]

Great Videos, Explained very well to. I am Going to attempt my first Acoustic Build. I was wondering, if maybe I should go with Laminated sides? If I were, where in the world would I find the Laminated Wood? Maybe the Laminated might be better for my first. This neck block video was really helpful. Thanks a Lot.

[@johnjlong]

It would be interesting to see your mold making process. I'm sure it's mostly CNC based, so that's limiting, but would still be neat to see. Is that just standard PVC pipe for the hinge/pivot?

[@alandust2188]

Any plans to do a video or offer plans on your mold and other jigs?

[@cutebabyseal621]

This thing is looking awesome. Thanks for putting these videos together, I'm learning so much! Would love to see you do a video for a future build on what's different with cutaways and how to approach them. I love the look and feel of a nice cutaway guitar, but it does seem like it adds a crapton of work :)

[@TyinAlaska]

For sanding the blocks to fit the mold, you can create a jig that's the same radius as the part of the mold that accepts the blocks. Attach sand paper to the inside of the jig, and then sand the blocks on the jigs until they fit snugly. They will be perfect every time and will only take a few minutes to sand.

[@bpower6362]

Great video. You were definitely on the struggle bus there. At least when Matt helped out he used the hand that is used to being on camera. That was his "thumbs up" hand. :) also..... the song at the end from dirty dancing..... who is going to lift who over their head? He he he

[@heymrguitarman7637]

Bourbon Moth is an epic channel for anyone interested in woodworking and humour

[@jeffalexander181]

Love this! What is the height of your heal and neck blocks?

[@ricklavash6965]

Perhaps I’m missing something, but why wouldn’t you glue the blocks in, with the sides trapped in the mold? It seems to me like it would be a lot easier without the sides slipping around. I’m probably missing something! Sorry Dan Stiverson, didn’t see your comment before I opened my big mouth!

[@Aurelian76]

Another cool video...

[@jeffdoyle06118]

For the initial part of clamping the neck block you may want to use a single hand operated clamp at first then replace with your standard clamps after it is in place. That may make the wishing for extra hands work better.

[@jayballauer8353]

That was gonna be my advice...use an Irwin Quick Clamp to position it first.

[@TheAciddragon069]

a simple spring clamp would have saved a huge headache. he could have used the method as shown just spring clamp one end so he has both hands for the other then replace the spring clamp with a good one

[@adriancross1218]

Hi Chris, why do you not glue the neck and tail blocks while the sides are in the jig? Cheers Adrian.

[@zapa1pnt]

Chris, why do you not glue the neck and tail blocks in, while the sides are in the mold? I would think it to be a whole lot easier. If you are concerned about glue seeping through the joint, to the mold, just put some waxed paper at those areas, of the mold, when you put the sides in.

[@real_kayaitsch]

Exactly what I thought ... cant await the answer for some inside thoughts ... maybe there is a reason 🤷‍♂️

[@dalgguitars]

thanks for the videos!

[@yiwutcmmedicalenlightenmen922]

brilliant idea to stop clamping drift but I wonder if maybe a silicone oxide abrasive grit for sandblasting would be a better choice. I would be concerned about the possibility of the salt attracting water to the glue.

[@johnpeters211]

Don't take this the wrong way, but watching you struggle clamping made me feel a lot better about my ordeal this afternoon. I tried the method that O'Brian does with clamping heel & tail in the mold only on the back sides and then taking it out. Then he clamps both on the top side. It was a $h!t show, but in the end it worked out well. Everyone has days I guess.

[@stevedimebag]

Btw - loving the channel after discovering it a few days ago! I saw your video on the dog bone neck pocket. Excellent idea. So I’m wondering, regarding that neck block glue up, why don’t you use a traditional mortise and tenon joint to secure that in and REALLY tie it all into that transverse brace? It just occurred to me that, given you philosophies on bracing and housing your bridge plate etc, the physical join of those pieces could aid in the transfer of energy, albeit minimal. Hope that made sense 😵‍💫

[@szabolcsmezei4088]

Perhaps corking both sides of the clamping cauls could help with slippage of the clamp jaws?

[@bldallas]

Have you ever used your neck radius gauges to see if a standard neck radius, matches up with the body radius at the neck and tail block? If so, a corresponding radius sanding block would be an easy way to shape the block backs. Just a thought…

[@stephen3073]

There have been SO MANY times when I'm trying to clamp up multiple parts, or glueing in bindings and purflings, when I REALLY wished I had a third hand growing out of the center of my chest, so I could use two hands to hold the piece, and the third one to apply the clamp. Wouldn't that be a handy feature? I think the third hand would be so incredibly useful, that I wouldn't even mind being a freak. Heck, I could use it for lots of other things too. It might even improve my chances with the ladies.

[@mattfleming2287]

I think that’s the first time I saw you have an issue…thank goodness. Can’t have you getting a swelled head about all your success’. Oh, yeah, WHERE’S YOUR DUST MASK?! Come on, man. You’ve got a family and Matt right there. Can’t wait to hear it!

[@gavinhutton8455]

yes ..finally...

[@jasonbrown6554]

That horn tune at the beginning, sounded like the start of the Canadian national anthem, " O Canada".

[@jeyapragashradhaakrishnan3443]

I know right I was just going to comment on that lol

[@0whitestone]

Just curious, it seems like it would be a lot easier to glue it in the mold, and clamp it on the top side of the mold to the bottom side of the in block and the neck block?

[@gavinhutton8455]

the molds are not that wide i guess..

[@0whitestone]

@@gavinhutton8455 oh yeah, good point. I think I would make one for that then lol that looked like a lot of hassle

[@basketball5ize]

A I build furniture and end grain does not glue edge grain glues really well so why not make the block and fret extension so edge grains glue together? Much stronger joint just cuz you love strength

[@newffee]

Ratchet clamps would work good in that application. How thick are the laminated sides?

[@DriftwoodGuitars]

The laminate pieces are 2mm and the outside pieces are 2mm, for a total of 4mm

[@newffee]

@@DriftwoodGuitars cool that's what I was thinking. Thanks.

[@jellybingus416]

Why glue the neck with it hanging off the bench? Why not lay the pieces flat on the bench and clamp them that way? I know nothing about guitar building just wondering if I missed something and he explained it.

[@geoffgovey9093]

would it not be better to stick some sandpaper to the inside of the mould and then hand sand the block to the correct radii?

[@popsmorris5887]

First rule of parenting: Do not suck your kid into the bandsaw! Loving the series. Thanks for putting in the effort to educate us.

[@peterbastjancic]

A practical question...Salt is very hydroscopic and corrosive. Did guitars ever had issues long terms because of that salt?

[@barrychristian4050]

If you don't have any salt handy rub two bits of 40 or 60 grit sandpaper together over the glue ( to taste) does the same thing 👍

[@gavinhutton8455]

it wud have been really nice if u cud have got a few slo mo shots of the edge sander..so satisfying actually.

[@danstiverson]

Wouldn't these glue ups be a whole lot easier with the sides in the forms like you had them earlier?

[@billsmith3042]

Luthier tooth pulling jokes are the best

[@encryptor6710]

To round out the shape of the neck block with the mold, couldnt you just use your mold and a router bit? Like clamp your neck block some distance away from the router bit and just do a pass? That would put the neck block to the exact shape of the mold. No manual sanding needed.

[@MrFlintwalker1]

Is there a specific name for that design of neck block?

[@danstiverson]

Wouldn't that glue up be much easier if you left it in the mold? You could even make a spreader clamp all across the middle and make quick work of both blocks at once.

[@ericcarpenter3263]

I was wondering the same thing, couldn't you just mark the centerline on the block ends and line it up? I am in no way questioning the technique, was just wondering if there was a reason to do it outside the mold.

[@davidlarsson4198]

I was also instantly thinking the same as Dan and Eric. Also, if you leave it in the mold, you can stick sand-paper on the inside and then sand the radius of the block to perfection. But probably this is something you already have done before and have a reason not to do? :)

[@Ghemtl]

If the curves aren't match perfeclty (like in this case) the sides can still bend if they aren't clamped in the mold I think. In any case, it makes a better joint with sides clamped to the actual thing.

[@TyinAlaska]

Excellent idea.

[@earle4370]

Was thinking the same thing. I've built two acoustics now and I glued the neck and heel block in while the sides were in the mold.

[@troystaten5633]

Maybe try fine sand instead of salt, pattern makers used to do that.

[@annorayasmin544]

Good

[@GravelRacer1]

When gluing blocks together you should orient them so you are not gluing to end grain. It will be significantly stronger.

[@bldallas]

More ideas…. To simplify the gluing of the sides to the neck block, you can make a bottom caul that matches the geometry of the face of the block. It will then cradle the block and prevent rocking. Sorry, I know I’m starting to sound like “Hints From Heloise”…

[@DriftwoodGuitars]

I’ll take any suggestions I can get! Thanks.

[@littlecncshop]

Get a few trigger clamps for those blocks. Then you only need 1 hand

[@dartht.3736]

seems like a laminated stick with a good base could hold that camera just as good as that guy... whatisname.....(kidding... Matt does a great job of showing close ups and panning in and out and up and down.... 🙃 )

[@TheAciddragon069]

a simple spring clamp would have saved a huge headache. he could have used the method as shown just spring clamp one end so he has both hands for the other then replace the spring clamp with a good one

[@thijzisthuis]

Connect them with a piece of masking tape before clamping, easy peasy. 😉

[@sealand000]

No pepper?

[@przybyla420]

A disc sander would work well

[@micmacnz]

Like an upside down Spanish foot, as used on Flamenco guitars...

[@mattjones7825]

I don’t understand why you didn’t glue this up inside of the jig

[@johndello-stritto4800]

Did you say 30 ft radius guitar top? shouldnt be 30 inches instead?

[@ErnieB]

A 30-inch radius results in about 1.75 inches of bulge over the length of the body. A 30-foot radius results in about 0.15 inches of bulge, over the length. Enough to stiffen the top, but not look greatly out of flat.

[@johndello-stritto4800]

@@ErnieB Then 30 ft it is. Should have done some math to verify. my apologies ( too used to seeing typos!!)

[@ErnieB]

@@johndello-stritto4800 No apologies necessary, certainly not to me, anyway. But others may have wondered the same thing, so it becomes a teachable moment. Thanks for being a gentleman about it. I'm too used to seeing people who can't do math be absolutely certain in their wrong thinking.That's not you, though. It's all good, John..

[@hueyhoolihan582]

i would think this would be a lot easier with the sides in a full sized mold.

[@AdrianDecaux]

I just realized, you should change the logo, it says acoustic, and now it's not only acoustic :P

[@tranquilitybase6417]

Looks to me like you need a gluing jig

[@nolimitsldr]

Off topic…be honest…during the pandemic did you go out with your paint booth face shield? 😂

[@raytristani]

14:20 😂. Why don’t you just tape the halves together to hold them and then clamp them? 🤣

[@LilyJaneH]

Too much salt is a definite problem. I used too much while making a Spanish heel a while back, and it fell apart. Huge mess to clean up.

[@peakysalex7913]

Brooklyn 99 easter egg :3

[@longfeatherwolfheart487]

why not glue it in the mold

[@geojelly9830]

Why don't you just put double sided tape and sandpaper on your mold where the heel block would go and sand it that way? Guaranteed 100% perfect fit after sanding a while

[@sigfreed11]

You probably shouldn’t get a “nicer” workbench if it means you can’t get your job done as easily 👍🏻

[@judih.8754]

You need a tripod!

[@gavinhutton8455]

7:47 ya now thats what i like.

[@watchnlearn2731]

There is a much easier way to clamp those

[@donkalbo8274]

just salt hahah