How to Build the Petroleum Boiler using the Magma Core - Counterflow - Oxygen Not Included

[@2LegitCity]

Do you enjoy the "How To" videos? Should we do more of these? 🤔

[@ИгорьДементьев-и7м]

Yes,u guess,but that boiler is huge

[@ИгорьДементьев-и7м]

And i have a challenge for u.Try to make petroleum boiler without doors.

[@imundd]

@@ИгорьДементьев-и7мpossible, by generate own heat and a liquid output

[@ИгорьДементьев-и7м]

@@imundd its totally possible with just magma.

[@imundd]

@@ИгорьДементьев-и7м nooo wayyyyy :o

[@jAfr0Thunder86]

I very much like this, particularly the heat sink. A boiler I did in a previous play was based on a design from I think GC fungus. I like his overlays a lot and he counted tiles and explained differences in metal. You skipped all that. You’re like “stop around here switch to regular pipe” I love that, it makes it easier

[@theegodkingmammz1595]

Nice work dude, very clear and concise.

[@2LegitCity]

appreciate you!

[@mahirburaktekin8452]

at the beginning tiles above the door were reaching 700 celcius but i made it work! thanks for the video it works like a charm now, subscribed.

[@frankylopez4477]

Great video, I had to do 4 layers. 3 layers keep giving me sour gas

[@cugamer8862]

Took me multiple tries. I had four layers of window tiles above the steel door, and had to fill the heating area about half full with oil so I could let more cooler oil in to stop flashing to sour gas. It was tricky, but now my oil fields are converting themselves to petroleum. Next step is to figure out what to do with it all.

[@2LegitCity]

nice! the only thing to worry about is making sure you add in oil in full bubbles if possible- there is possibility for sour gas flash to still occur but only when you start to run out of oil and start pumping in the oil in " mgs ". that small packet of oil can flash due to low mass- but thats only a pump adjustment outside of the build

[@majinvampire]

How do you come with these concepts? And having such fine margins of error Isa feat of genius, engineering and game play skills. Well done.

[@2LegitCity]

honestly, alot of these concepts i've seen done individually over the year(s) and had people in my community share those build concepts. afterwards its just piecing things together with what you know is possible. shoutouts to all the sandboxers out there, mad scientist-ing the proof of concepts. i spend time in sandbox too- its a good habit when youre curious about potential design concepts

[@majinvampire]

@@2LegitCity that's a thing though I wanna be able to do these without sandbox help but sometimes it gets outta control. I never see you in sandbox mode and that's hardcore

[@2LegitCity]

@@majinvampire i sandbox all the time! i use it to test ideas and builds before going out to try them in a live colony

[@majinvampire]

Can't wait to see what you do with space, infinite power, food and others systems in ONI

[@2LegitCity]

sadly, i do not think infinite power is feasible - sadface

[@realityextractor1956]

Would it make sense to control the door state with a thermo switch at the tiles that you monitored manually during priming?

[@2LegitCity]

that would mean having either a liquid or gas inside a modified heatsink spike after the door, so a donut shape to surround the sensor. i think that is doing too much to ease in the prime-ing process- which is a one time thing but of course thats just my opinion

[@someheree6362]

You can prevent the 5kg sour gas flashing mechanics by adding a 2000kg steam heat buffer which cuts heat transfer at 403 degree c

[@2LegitCity]

i wonder if that is worth doing, since that 5kg flash only happens during the prime-ing process. i think i know what youre saying, basically allows for using a medium within the heatsink as a sensor instead of the petrol/oil itself

[@Rig0r_M0rtis]

I am going to try it in my build, but I'll use liquid lead instead of steam and sink the toggling sensor in it.

[@Chtorr1988]

good one

[@2LegitCity]

thanks!

[@pnarimani6055]

I think your 3 layer heat sink causes temperature errors at the top of the sink. For example, you set the temp sensor to 400, but when temp sensor hits 400, the bottom layer of heat sink is already way above 400 degrees and it's too late to close the door. If you only had 1 layer of heat sink above the door, temp sensor will stop any heat transfer immediately. Resulting in much more accuracy of temperature on the only heat sink layer.

[@2LegitCity]

i actually started the build at 1 layer, and worked up during the live stream. it failed everytime for 1 layer, worked 1 out of 5 times for 2 layer ( without any sourgas ), and never failed with 3. the problem with one layer is that the heat transfer from the door to heat sink occurs too fast and you jump up in heat

[@pnarimani6055]

@@2LegitCity Actually you are right. Now that I remember, I specifically build the top layer of metal tiles (or diamond windows) first, put some oil on it, then build the door (you can actually build the door through metal tiles last time I tried. I never tried diamond windows though.) I guess that's too complicated for a tutorial video. lol.

[@SicQueldorei]

@@2LegitCity The trick to using less layers is to have more thermal mass. Tempshift Plates are 800kg of whatever material you use to make them out of. If you make them out of diamond they will have the same specific heat capacity as your window tiles but because they are 8x more massive they will be able to absorb more heat energy before increasing in temperature thereby creating a more stable temperature in your boiler. I usually use a checkerboard pattern starting with the tile that has my temp sensor and ending at the top of my boiler shaft. The caveat to this is that tempshift plates will inject heat into the pipes you have running down the shaft so in order to avoid overheating the crude in the pipes you need to put the liquid vent at the top of the shaft instead of the bottom. I build mine in the permanent vacuum area above the shaft.

[@2LegitCity]

@@SicQueldorei i understand the mechanics but isnt using a tempshift plate just more "expensive" in cost of diamonds so that you have fewer layers which is really just 1 less layer? it looks like the cost outweigh the savings

[@SicQueldorei]

@@2LegitCity It is more expensive. If resource scarcity is an issue you could make the plates out of granite or virtually any other material that can withstand the temperatures.

[@Blyndem]

Nice build, Legit, definitely on my to do list. Would I need to change how much radiant pipe I use in the counter-flow if I'm using aluminum?

[@2LegitCity]

i would say 16~ radient pipes if youre following the radient -> regular -> insulated pattern

[@konradbartoszewicz1399]

Will the temperature from magma core ever run out? Or is this design an infinite one?

[@2LegitCity]

unfortunately, even with perfect heat extraction, the magma will eventually run out of heat- although it could take upto 1000 cycles for that to happen (depends on size of magma pool)

[@konradbartoszewicz1399]

@@2LegitCity Thanks bro, you did really great tutorial

[@seveny6to4]

No Idea how your top diamond tiles stay at steady 480 ish. It always goes up to 600- 700 immediately as soon as the door closes. I always have to close the door manually, and it always flashes into sour gas. I really like this design, but the boiling part is just not really working. I followed all the advice, but it just doesn't stabilize...

[@seveny6to4]

theres also always oil that slips up onto the spillway,

[@seveny6to4]

nvm I just lowered the temp sensor to 399 and was more carefull, great build love ur vids XD

[@ryanonvr2267]

It doesn't matter how many times I try to do this, it always flashes into sour gas at aroud 360 because the tiles are 720 immediately as soon as I open it. Doesn't matter what I try...

[@2LegitCity]

how much oil do you have on the heatsink? id recommend trying with as much oil as you can have before having the heat connected, that way the oil in contact has more mass and other tiles of oil to transfer heat into and wont spike up as high.

[@beekey9501]

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